Reno Blues

[looneygas 13]

Depends on whether u entertain often.

I have the 24VA but i'm in a 5 room flat living room.

If u have friends and family often over in the living room, i would say get the bigger FCU cos u have to account for the hallway space and body heat of everyone.

Yes definitely agree that 24VA is the way for 5rm living room. A 5rm living almost 1 room larger than a 4rm living. It wouldn't look out of place too. Also have to consider whether other FCUs are being used simultaneously as the outdoor unit is only about 30k Btu max. Eventually, this is purely personal preference.

[Ks Toh 74]

I have used both two door and side by side refrigerators, and I can confirm side by side refrigerators are generally much bigger in size, both internally as well as externally. In particular, the freezer compartment is much bigger. I am not sure if this is the same with you guys but I tend to keep lots of stuff in the freezer. So, I cannot live without the big freezer compartment.

However, it is true that the wider width of the side by side refrigerator might be an issue if your kitchen is small. But at my previous place, an apartment where there was no place to put my side by side refrigerator in the kitchen, I put it in the hall next to the dining table! Looked perfectly fine next to my wine chiller.

[mishmash 7]

yup crossing fingers too

anw, hope u have a smooth reno ahead and can shift in by June!

Thank you very much. We cannot believe that it is starting soon. Real soon.

Yes definitely agree that 24VA is the way for 5rm living room. A 5rm living almost 1 room larger than a 4rm living. It wouldn't look out of place too. Also have to consider whether other FCUs are being used simultaneously as the outdoor unit is only about 30k Btu max. Eventually, this is purely personal preference.

So, it is still ok if we go with 24VA despite 4-room flat? Any upgrade will result in tearing down the false ceiling in the near future... LOL

[mishmash 7]

I have used both two door and side by side refrigerators, and I can confirm side by side refrigerators are generally much bigger in size, both internally as well as externally. In particular, the freezer compartment is much bigger. I am not sure if this is the same with you guys but I tend to keep lots of stuff in the freezer. So, I cannot live without the big freezer compartment.

However, it is true that the wider width of the side by side refrigerator might be an issue if your kitchen is small. But at my previous place, an apartment where there was no place to put my side by side refrigerator in the kitchen, I put it in the hall next to the dining table! Looked perfectly fine next to my wine chiller.

Thanks, kstoh. Those are some points that we thought about. Been living with a side-by-side fridge since 1999 and saw the pros in it. We are hoping it can fit into the small kitchen by hook or by crook.

[looneygas 13]

Thank you very much. We cannot believe that it is starting soon. Real soon.

So, it is still ok if we go with 24VA despite 4-room flat? Any upgrade will result in tearing down the false ceiling in the near future... LOL

If you talk about functionality, 18VA is good enough for typical usage. If you like it extra cool, go for 24VA. If you want to use your room FCU simultaneously with 24VA, your outdoor unit might be pushed hard. Of course that's dependent on your usage pattern. Go through these practical comparisons and I'm sure you will come to a conclusion on which suits you best. Have fun!

[mishmash 7]

We will take note of the usage pattern in an attempt to prolong their lifespan. We do know it helps with scheduled servicing by trusted maintenance team.

If you talk about functionality, 18VA is good enough for typical usage. If you like it extra cool, go for 24VA. If you want to use your room FCU simultaneously with 24VA, your outdoor unit might be pushed hard. Of course that's dependent on your usage pattern. Go through these practical comparisons and I'm sure you will come to a conclusion on which suits you best. Have fun!

[mishmash 7]

Hi guys. We saw this OpenNet termination point (TP) with a data point at the front door. Another data point is located beside the TV point in the living room.

If we were to subscribe to an ISP, where would the Nucleus device be placed then? We can have the TP relocated, right? Will it be done by their contractor?

We look forward to your advice.

Edited April 5, 2014 by mishmash

[mishmash 7]

Hi guys,

It has been a long time since we last updated our T-Blog.

We have been occupying ourselves purchasing the following items...

• Aircon - Mitsubishi Starmex Inverter System 4 (MSYGE24VA + MSYGE10VA) = S$4708 (incl. Armflx, copper and 1yr + 4yrs warranty)
• Hood & Hob - Tecno KA298 Slim (We are contemplating to change to a chimney model instead) & Fujioh FG773 Safety Valve (White Glass) = S$659
• Oven - Tecno TBO630 Built-in = S$578
• Microwave - EF BM 258-A Built-in = S$485
• Sink & Tap - Blanco Naya 6 (White) & Blanco Spirit-S = S$680
• Water Heater - EuropAce EWH 138 Multi-point = S$279
• Refrigerator - Hitachi R-S700P2MS = S$1900
• Vacuum - Hitachi CV-BH18 = FOC (Comes with fridge)
• Washing Machine - LG WFT1161DD = S$1027 (incl. 2yrs + 3yrs ext warranty)

Currently, we are still scouting for :

• Extendable dining table (maybe leaning towards those sold at IKEA)
• Dining bench or chairs
• L-shape sofa
• TV console (thinking of DIY using crates)

We are still awaiting our electrical works quotation. For our lightings, we are contemplating to get Philips dimmer downlights found in lightings.com.sg or 3-in-1 downlights.

Also, we are crossing our fingers that our permit will be approved by HDB soonest.

FYI, we will be converting our telephone ports into data points. If in doubt, you may visit this website to know more.

Cheers!

[hushpuppy 0]

which ID are you using?

[mishmash 7]

Hi guys,

Was wondering if anyone can shed some light if the quoted electrical works for our house is overpriced:

• Lighting point (20 x $50 = $1000)
• 2 way lighting point (1 x $60 = $60)
• 13 Amp - Single (13 x $70 = $910)
• TV point (2 x $100 = $200)
• Data cat6 point (1 x $120 = $120)
• Data cat5 point (1 x $100 = $100)
• Cooker hood/ hob point (1 x $70 = $70)
• Oven point ( 1 x $90 = $90)
• Microwave point (1 x $90 = $90)
• Installation of light (27 x $9 = $243)
• Installation of hanging downlight (1 x $30 = $30)
• installation of LED at kitchen cabinet ($40)
• Hacking of wall for concealed wired ($450)
• Concealing of damaged area ($400)

Total damage = $3800

For a premium BTO, we felt that it was a tad too ex. We will be hacking half of kitchen wall and the wall that is shared by MBR and Bedroom 2. Thus, there are some relocations of points. Now we are asking around if it is too ex. Fyi, this is our ID's contractor. We already half-expected it to be ex compared to an external contractor.

Really hoping you guys can help us out with this. Thanks heaps in advance!

[greglhc 30]

The hacking and concealing is pricey

I would ask them to throw in the installation of lights for free.

The price per point I think is within market rates

[myzticalz 14]

The prices are about the same as what I've gotten for my shortlisted ID except for a few, my is exp by $5/$10. Hope it helps.

[mishmash 7]

Thanks greglhc and myzticalz for your inputs! We are currently thinking of getting our own electrician to do up the electrical works. HUGE difference in price. *gulps*

Now that we know of the highly marked up price by our id's contractor, we are beginning to question some of the newer items that he just quoted us for our variation order. We are now wondering if anyone has contacts for the following or if these items quoted by our id is reasonable pricing:

Cement screed selected area for kitchen wall (area above bottom cabinet only as there is no top cabinet): $802.50

Partition to box up kitchen area pipe & gas pipe: $695.50

Rectify & lay parquet at damaged area on floor after hacking (the wall btw MBR and Bedroom 2): $481.50

Grind parquet for 2 bedrooms: $1016.50

We are looking forward to some help from fellow t-bloggers!

Cheers!

[OceanEleven 203]

Cement screed selected area for kitchen wall (area above bottom cabinet only as there is no top cabinet): $802.50

Partition to box up kitchen area pipe & gas pipe: $695.50

Rectify & lay parquet at damaged area on floor after hacking (the wall btw MBR and Bedroom 2): $481.50

Grind parquet for 2 bedrooms: $1016.50

Why no top cabinet? 800 can do at least 3 ft of top already.

Partition are always costly, consider as carpentry as well.

Grinding feels costly. $1k can do overlay with vinyl for both rooms already. Brand new and not recon.

[OceanEleven 203]

• Lighting point (20 x $50 = $1000)
• 2 way lighting point (1 x $60 = $60)
• 13 Amp - Single (13 x $70 = $910)
• TV point (2 x $100 = $200)
• Data cat6 point (1 x $120 = $120)
• Data cat5 point (1 x $100 = $100)
• Cooker hood/ hob point (1 x $70 = $70)
• Oven point ( 1 x $90 = $90)
• Microwave point (1 x $90 = $90)
• Installation of light (27 x $9 = $243)
• Installation of hanging downlight (1 x $30 = $30)
• installation of LED at kitchen cabinet ($40)
• Hacking of wall for concealed wired ($450)
• Concealing of damaged area ($400)

Total damage = $3800

Lighting point feels ex. 13Amp Single is ex. At $70, some can do double already.

• Hacking of wall for concealed wired ($450)
• Concealing of damaged area ($400)

How much is being hack?

Main point - What rubbish is this? Concealing of damaged area? Does it means make good of the hacking of wall for concealing?

Which house owner hack to conceal but never make good of hacking part? So why split into 2 part?

If they really charge this way, then make sure after plastering, the hacking part is smooth and flush with the walls and not uneven with the hacking line visible.