sforshor 84 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 My stainless steel shower water drain. (I hope is 100% stainless steel)Will update pictures after my installation.Hinormally this is to buy yourself or is included in the plumping work ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) I think it is a good idea and it will work, so long as the glass door is installed above the sloping part. I discussed the importance of ensuring that there is a floor drop here: http://www.renotalk.com/forum/topic/62505-top-kew-drive/?p=841431 Thank you. For extra protection I will add a glass door rubber seal strip. Edited March 16, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 Hi normally this is to buy yourself or is included in the plumping work ? Should be included. However I paid for my own upgrade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Now you see it. Soon you don't. (Using calcium silicate board due to possible moisture) Edited March 22, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) This is a picture how we reduce the number of visible piping in the bathrooms. Run all pipes in the common bath room. Punch 2 pipes (1 Hot & 1 Cold) through the common wall into the master bath room. Conceal all the pipes behind a calcium silicate wall. (Instead of 2x conceal for both common and master.) A similar idea to soloqueen’s http://www.renotalk.com/forum/topic/63885-transformation-in-telok-blangah-drive/page-2 Edited March 16, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Should we leave or remove all the exposure PTFE tape? Edited March 16, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Songz 132 Report post Posted March 17, 2014 Here you go. This is the best I can do. (No way to move further. Else I have to knock a hole into the neighbour’s place.)Thanks so much for the picture.It looks quite nice (kind of raw look) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Songz 132 Report post Posted March 17, 2014 I will suggest to leave as you need to use it in the future.PTEF tap is the one that protrude out for the water right ? (*juz my 2 cents worth) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted March 17, 2014 Thank you. For extra protection I will add a glass door rubber seal strip.More importantly, the door must be installed above the sloping part. If that is done, there is no need for the rubber seal. If not supervised, many contractors will install directly above the joint. In that case, even with a rubber seal, it will not keep out water totally.Should we leave or remove all the exposure PTFE tape?I never remove any of these tape. In the process of removal, you might accidentally cause the tap to leak. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) Day 29 We are moving to the final stage of boxing up all the visible piping. I reckon we should finish everything by end of this week. MASTER BEDROOM Conceal the AC Piping Edited May 7, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) I was in BKK shopping! (Actually I was there for 2 day business trip. Skipped lunch and rushed to the biggest DIY Shop BKK)This place is reno heaven. You can find everything under one roof. CHEAPER THAN SINGAPORE.My 304 stainless steel purchase.1x VRH Faucet for my washer2x VRH Robe hook2x VRH Basin water trap4x VRH Toilet spray (2x as spares)Total: SGD150Not forgetting my Zebra head water container Edited March 18, 2014 by marcel 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
razzberrie 3 Report post Posted March 18, 2014 If you are going for a light, uniform look, go for the white lilac. The main difference between the two colors is that white lilac is of a warmer shade (yellowish), while special touch is a cool shade (bluish). IMO, juxtaposing special touch and the warm flooring will look "off". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) MASTER BATHROOM Accordingly to the schedule. We should be installing all the faucets this Saturday. AFTER BEFORE PROCESS Edited March 19, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) COMMON BATHROOM I have standby my SLR for this weekend photo shot. AFTER (Not complete.) Edited March 19, 2014 by marcel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marcel 22 Report post Posted March 19, 2014 If you are going for a light, uniform look, go for the white lilac. The main difference between the two colors is that white lilac is of a warmer shade (yellowish), while special touch is a cool shade (bluish). IMO, juxtaposing special touch and the warm flooring will look "off". White lilac is too near the color of your flooring and thus don have the contrast as much as the Special Touch. I will go for the Special touch in this case (*Note I am not really good in color combination) *Juz my 2 cents worth ... Thanks Songz and razzberrie. By this weekend, you will know which color I select. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites