alfredt 27 Report post Posted January 13, 2014 How do I conceal the fibre cabling to the TP?Your contractor can lay concealed trunking from the telecom riser outside your property all the way to your desired TP location, then put a string or wire inside. When the OpenNet contractor comes, he will just use the string or wire to pull the fibre cable into your house. This is a standard procedure which your contractor must know. If he does not know, then I don't know what to say.I read in one of the blogs here that in some new HDB flats, this wire is pre-laid. Please check if yours is one of these. It seems that some contractor are not aware of this at all and they hacked and laid ugly surface trunking when it was totally unnecessary. Read here.very comprehensive ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) When you sign up with any ISP, the ISP will arrange for Nucleus Connect (NC), which is the company operating the OpenNet network, to install the Optical Network Terminal (ONT). This ONT is connected to the TP. Your ISP will also supply a Residential Gateway (RG). The ONT converts optical signal from the TP into electrical signals for your RG.This is the Huawei ONT which was supplied to me:In the picture above, the green cable on the extreme right is the optical cable coming from the TP. This plugs into the Optical port on the ONT. From the ONT, only Port 1 is active. You cannot use the other ports. Reserved for other service providers. From Port 1, use Cat 6 and above cable to connect to the RG.The RG is essentially a wireless router and the model varies considerably from ISP to ISP. Some supply very good ones. Some, like the D-link model which was supplied to me by StarHub, is hopeless in its WiFi capability.The RG is connected to all your devices in all parts of your house via the structured cable network. Edited May 24, 2014 by kstoh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Your RG, like most typical wireless routers, will have 4 network ports at the back. If you have laid only 4 network cables to this location, then you can just plug the 4 cables to these ports. Otherwise, you need to buy a switch, which is essentially something like an extension power cord, from one to many points.Some people buy those big 24 port switches. In my case, I just buy a simple 8 port switch. Together with the 4 ports in my RG, it is enough for me. But I did buy a Gigabit switch, which I understand means very fast speed. This is the set up in my utility room. Yes, I know it is rather untidy. I did not dare to photo the messy wires behind. The D-link device in front is the StarHub supplied RG. The ONT is on the right. The 8 port switch is at the back. Edited January 13, 2014 by kstoh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mavicaste 58 Report post Posted January 13, 2014 :good: Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Nobody can now use the excuse of the lack of information online during consideration for their home networking plan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ahhboi 15 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 Your RG, like most typical wireless routers, will have 4 network ports at the back. If you have laid only 4 network cables to this location, then you can just plug the 4 cables to these ports. Otherwise, you need to buy a switch, which is essentially something like an extension power cord, from one to many points.Some people buy those big 24 port switches. In my case, I just buy a simple 8 port switch. Together with the 4 ports in my RG, it is enough for me. But I did buy a Gigabit switch, which I understand means very fast speed. This is the set up in my utility room. Yes, I know it is rather untidy. I did not dare to photo the messy wires behind. The D-link device in front is the StarHub supplied RG. The ONT is on the right. The 8 port switch is at the back.Wow! Thanks for this! I have a better idea now.Just one more question though.... Does that mean that at the my hall where the router is, there will be four "outlets" from my rooms at that area? How does the end result looks like? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) Wow! Thanks for this! I have a better idea now.Just one more question though.... Does that mean that at the my hall where the router is, there will be four "outlets" from my rooms at that area? How does the end result looks like? Thanks!The end in the individual rooms will typically look like this:while the end in the hall where all the wires congregate can end in a proper Patch Panel like this:or end up in a mess of dangling wires like this (in my house):But if you have only 4 cables, it seems like you don't need a patch panel. You can have a 4 port faceplate or just wires direct to the router? Edited January 14, 2014 by kstoh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) This is my network setup.In my utility room, I have:TP --> Huawei ONT --> StarHub D-Link WiFi Router (RG) Cables coming out of RGPort 1 --> D-Link 8 port Gigabit SwitchPort 2 --> Room 3 --> Apple Airport Express (Wireless n) --> Canon wireless printer/scannerPort 3 --> Room 4 --> Apple Airport Time Capsule (Wireless ac) --> IP Cameras 3 & 4Port 4 --> Not in UseCables connected to D-Link 8 port Gigabit SwitchPort 1 <-- RGPort 2 --> Living Room --> D-Link 8 port Gigabit Switch --> (1) Linksys WiFi Router (2) Smart TV (3) SoundBar (4) Apple TVPort 3 --> DiningPort 4 --> Room 1 --> Buffalo WiFi Router (Wireless n) --> HP PCPort 5 --> Room 2Port 6 --> Roof Terrace (IP Camera 5, Wii, Xbox)Port 7 --> IP Camera 1Port 8 --> IP Camera 2My original plan called for 2 cables to each point to provide for redundancy and reserve. But when the contractor wanted to charge me double, I refused to pay and stubbornly (and probably childishly) said I will just lay one cable to each point. So far it is ok, but I am beginning to read that it might cause a problem in the future.If you count, I have 9 cables running from my utility room. When I last checked, the next switch I could find after the 8-port switch was the 24-port switch, which was much bigger in size. I bought two of the 8-port switches after the salesgirl told me I could connect them in parallel and they will work like a 14-port switch (one port each being used to connect the two) but when I tried, some devices (the IP cameras) would fail. Now, I just use one of the 8-port switch plus the 4 ports on the RG. Edited June 9, 2015 by kstoh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ahhboi 15 Report post Posted January 15, 2014 Wow! Yours is soooooo chim! And thanks for your explanations!If Im only want the fibre internet for my rooms only, do I still need to lay telephone lines and not sure what else you got in the below picture?And many thanks again for explaning to an IT noob like me. haha lol The end in the individual rooms will typically look like this: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Wow! Yours is soooooo chim! And thanks for your explanations!If Im only want the fibre internet for my rooms only, do I still need to lay telephone lines and not sure what else you got in the below picture?And many thanks again for explaning to an IT noob like me. haha lol Hi It looks complicated but it is not.If you imagine a tree, the base of the tree will be TP. Further up the trunk will be the ONT followed by the RG. From the RG, I have 9 branches, each leading to a particular location. Some branches like "Living Room" have sub-branches.In your case, it might be that you only have 3 or 4 main branches to your various rooms. The ONT and RG are supplied by the ISP. if you only have 3 or 4 branches, you probably do not need to buy an an additional switch, as the RG should have 4 ports.Currently, fibre cable is only up to TP. From the TP location, you lay structured network cabling to your rooms. This means Cat 6 and above computer ethernet cables, not telephone wires (although it seems ethernet cables are now used for telephone wires). But the cabling for telephone network may be different, so make sure it is for network cabling. You do not need to lay a telephone network. This is additional. In my case, the telephone port was pre-existing. I am not using it. I am not even sure if it works. Both the telephone and network ports are put in the same face plate just to look neat. They are separate networks and not dependent on one another. You can have single network port face plates too. The face plate on the extreme left is for SCV.The structured network cabling can also be used even if you choose not to use fibre broadband. In this case, instead of using the ONT which is something like a fibre modem, you use some other modem. For example, you decide to use StarHub Maxonline which is using SCV cable. In this case, instead of TP > ONT > RG > Rooms, your setup will be SCV point > Cable Modem > RG > Rooms. Edited January 15, 2014 by kstoh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ahhboi 15 Report post Posted January 15, 2014 Woo, IC IC. Really thanks a lot and appreciate all the explanations!Paisei, me living in a small rented room for close to 20 years, all these are totally Alien to me. Once again, thanks for all the ppl here who answer my questions. At least now i understand a bit more. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Josette 0 Report post Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) This is my network setup.In my utility room, I have:TP --> Huawei ONT --> StarHub D-Link WiFi Router (RG) Cables coming out of RGPort 1 - D-Link 8 port Gigabit SwitchPort 2 - Room 3 --> Apple Airport Express (Wireless n) --> Canon wireless printer/scannerPort 3 - Room 4 --> Apple Airport Time Capsule (Wireless ac) --> IP Cameras 3 & 4Port 4 - Not in UseCables coming out of D-Link 8 port Gigabit SwitchPort 1 - RGPort 2 - Living Room --> D-Link 8 port Gigabit Switch --> (1) Linksys WiFi Router (2) Smart TV (3) SoundBar (4) Apple TVPort 3 - DiningPort 4 - Room 1Port 5 - Room 2Port 6 - Roof Terrace (intended for Xbox, Wii etc)Port 7 - IP Camera 1Port 8 - IP Camera 2My original plan called for 2 cables to each point to provide for redundancy and reserve. But when the contractor wanted to charge me double, I refused to pay and stubbornly (and probably childishly) said I will just lay one cable to each point. So far it is ok, but I am beginning to read that it might cause a problem in the future.If you count, I have 9 cables running from my utility room. When I last checked, the next switch I could find after the 8-port switch was the 24-port switch, which was much bigger in size. I bought two of the 8-port switches after the salesgirl told me I could connect them in parallel and they will work like a 14-port switch (one port each being used to connect the two) but when I tried, some devices (the IP cameras) would fail. Now, I just use one of the 8-port switch plus the 4 ports on the RG.Thank you for the explanation! It is very useful for me as I'm about to reno my new house. Edited January 15, 2014 by Josette Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 17, 2014 (edited) Now that one of the local ISPs has launched 'the world's fastest fibre broadband" at 1 Gbps, does this mean that if you get that, you will get blazingly fast internet access? Many people signup for faster and faster plans, hoping to get even faster internet speeds at home.The speed of your internet connection is only as fast as your weakest link.There is no point getting a 1Gbps (1,000 Mbps) internet connection when you have to throttle the line through either a "Fast" 10/100 Switch (theoretical max speed of 100 Mbps), HomePlug connection (speed varies, but max speed could be around 100 Mbps), a Wireless-G router (max speed of 54 Mbps) and then your device only has Wireless-B (max speed of 11 Mbps). In the end, your internet speed is only 11 Mbps at most. To fully utilise your speed, and to future proof your home, you need to ensure that the connection all the way can support speeds of 1 Gbps and above. This means laying cables to the devices as far as possible, and leaving the WiFi to the last leg.- Cat 6 and above ethernet cables - can support up to 1 Gbps to 10 Gbps, depending on distance- Gigabit switch - can support up to 1 Gbps- Wireless-N (450 Mbps or higher) or Wireless-AC (1,200 Mbps or higher) router/access pointsA basic fibre broadband plan with proper structured network cabling will perform much better than a top-of-the-line fibre broadband plan with little or no network cabling. Currently, I am on the most basic 100 Mbps StarHub fibre broadband but with Cat 6 network cabling ending with Wireless-N and Wireless-AC access points (I am not so familiar with terminology. I am using the routers in bridge mode, was told they should be called access points in this case).On devices with wired connection to the network point (e.g. TV), I am able to watch entire YouTube videos in HD without any pause at all.On my iPhone 5 (Wireless-N) connected to my Apple Airport Time Capsule (Wireless-AC) which is wired by Cat 6 cable to my Gigabit Switch > RG > TP gets the following speed on my simple SpeedTest on my iphone: Edited December 20, 2015 by Ks Toh Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crystaltiong 2 Report post Posted January 17, 2014 Hi KSCan you please share more abt the garden auto tap with timer ? where to get and price etc ?Thanks ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lucylee 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2014 Hi KSFirstly, a big Thank You to you for writing about the issue of structured network cabling. We are now in the midst of renovation. I have been keeping tabs on your blog and whenever there is a new entry, it will be reflected in my email. Had I not read about this, my TV will not be connected to the internet and like you said, why buy a smart TV when I cannot make use of it. By the way, may I know how much did the contractor charge you for each data point? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ks Toh 74 Report post Posted January 17, 2014 Hi KSCan you please share more abt the garden auto tap with timer ? where to get and price etc ?Thanks !Hi The contractor Vertical Green supplied the device as part of the package price, so I am not sure of the individual price. I can also check with my gardener but he is currently away. If I am not wrong, the local nurseries should have them too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites