The Transformation

[ehspro 0]

U go to your kitchen, open up the false ceiling access panel, you should see the Heater.

Or go to your storeroom at the backyard, open up the Electrical box, there could be a drawing inside there.

Yap...thanks for the heads-up..I was amazed at the speed of my reno progress..so far no hiccups and minimal supervision...one month liao...I am into carpentry liao

[jumbopanther 2]

I am back.

Ok today talk about external main gate. Some prefer no auto, meaning manually open & close, it's ok too, can save some $, and need not have to worry about breakdown.

Some prefer auto gate, because more convenient, every time whether drive out or return from work, or raining heavily, can auto control and need not have to get out of the car.

For auto, can use sliding or swing open, depending on site conditions. Generally for swing type, have to take note of the internal ramp height so that it will not 'knock' onto the higher slope.

If tiling is in progress, please note to arrange for the autogate vendor to come in and install the 'sunken' pits first on both sides of the swing gate, then the tiles need not be hacked and can wrap around the sunken pit neatly.

Would also suggest to have a manual swing open gate for general walk in and out ( for domestic helper or children especially) so need not have to always activate the autogate every time. This gate can be 'gate within a gate and strongly suggest that the main gate should be at least 1.75~1.8m high so that anyone going in and out will not knock his or her head against the top fame.

A gate within a gate:

[Suyun 0]

Your new gate Panda? Nice looking. How wide is your small gate ? Mine will be 65 cm.

[jumbopanther 2]

Your new gate Panda? Nice looking. How wide is your small gate ? Mine will be 65 cm.

Yup, my new gate, its width is about 75 cm, just in case I grow much fatter in future, haha.

Edited November 1, 2012 by jumbopanther

[jumbopanther 2]

Rainy season, will be good to harness rainwater from nature and save water. Water collected can be used for gardening, wash car, wash toilets, front porch or backyard.

Did some modification to collect rainwater:

[Suyun 0]

I like this idea. Had similar idea to collect rain water.

I am planning to do that with my wet kitchen awning to design it with a gutter to collect the water on on side of the yard, the water collected can be a used to wash the yard, water my plants..

[Sunbird73 0]

Hi Jumbopanther,

Can share in details how this system works?

More pictures of this rainwater collection set-up will be useful for me.

Thanks much!

[jumbopanther 2]

It's simple, you can do so if you have gutter or existing rainwater down pipe. Just cut off the vertical section, and let the water free flow down like a spout. No need rocket science.

[jumbopanther 2]

About tiles laying, it's important to run through in details with the tiler where to start and end, this is important as it will determine where will the full tiles begin and where the cut tiles will show up.

Usually fthe principle is for main entrances and where first line of sight starts and obvious, this is where full tiles begins. As such, where there are split steps, these tiles should start first and move to the rear and not start from the rear towards the steps.

Edited November 9, 2012 by jumbopanther

[jumbopanther 2]

Tiling for stairs:

Laying of tiles for corners and edges. Never like the round PVC corners with different colours, so do 45 degrees cut. But for flooring, if cut to edges 45 degrees, there is a high risk of chipping. If that happens, got to replace whole tile, very troublesome.

So suggest still do 45 degrees, but leave 2~3 mm at the edge to keep the edges 'hardy' and prevent easy chipping.

Prefer to have straight edges rather than curve PVC edges. Below shown is example of completed stairs with straight edges. No need to be too eager to peel off the top plastic, keep it until final coat of painting is done.

Edited November 9, 2012 by jumbopanther

[jumbopanther 2]

Sequence of works for flooring and door frame.

Whether laying of tiles or laminated flooring or parquet, it is advisable to do the flooring first before installing the door frame. In this way, for example, the laminated flooring can be laid to the edge of the wall, leaving a gap of abt 10~15mm for expansion, and the door frame can then sit nicely on the laminated flooring. Then you will see a nice interface. If the door frame is laid first, then have to cut the laminated floor accordingly to the door frame edges, leaving an unsightly gap of silicon sealing.

Below is an example of frame sitting nicely ontop of laminated flooring. Left side of the frame will be sealed off with skirting.

The door will be laid last after flooring is done, so can measure nicely and fit the opening and closing.if flooring is done after the door,, there maybe a possible need to cut the door lower edges to prevent scratches.

Edited November 10, 2012 by jumbopanther

[Sunbird73 0]

Hi Jumbopanther,

Can I have the contacts of your contractor? I would like to invite him to submit a tender bid for reconstruction my house.

Judging by the renovation progress, workmanship and attention to details, your contractor will be a good choice to consider.

Thanks much.

[jumbopanther 2]

Hi sunbird, oh you still following my blog?

Ha, ok, have pmed you my builder contact.

Wish you well and enjoy your reconstruction.

[Sunbird73 0]

Jumbopanther,

I've been following your blog closely, checking for updates on daily basis.

Haha..but no kidding. Learned so much from your sharing. Things that a regular homeowner would not know...and now we are made aware.

Thanks so much for taking the time to blog your journey.

[jumbopanther 2]

Hi sunbird, thanks for your kind words.

Too many things to learn in construction/renovation. I am still learning too, looking out for new things.

Now I am at the last phase of my A&A, having installed all sanitary wares, lightings, aircons, switches etc. carpentry will soon be up and final coat of paint.

And also checking for defects as work progress so that I can get the various trade contractors who are still around to rectify the defects ( thank goodness, actually minor ones found so far) while they are still working at my site. Otherwise, if they shift out of site, quite difficult and cumbersome to get them back.

So advise is, if possible, near the last phase of works, while you still have contractors working, do spend a bit more time to check for defects, if any.