The Transformation

[jumbopanther 2]

Good for you, "My sweetlittlethings". Otherwise, you got to pay extra for specialist to dispose the material properly.

[jumbopanther 2]

Following the topic on window, let me touch on 'Glass'. Sometimes, ID or contractor throw out different terms for glass and what do they actually mean?

There are different terms referring to glass generally as follows:

1) single glaze: usually 6-10mm the, 1 plane that look like this:

2) double glaze: generally 12-14 mm thick, 2 pieces of glass stick together, look like this

3) tempered glass - means the glass are treated so that if breaks, it will not shred into sharp glass pieces but end up as fragmented pieces like 'ice' so will not cut so seriously, look like this:

4)laminated glass- the above piece is not only tempered but also laminated, such that a film holds the broken pieces of glass together and not 'rain down'

So naturally, thicker the glass or tempered + laminated will be more ex and heavy too.

Application: general rule ( also depend on individual)

A) for windows- single glaze 6-8mm

B) for staircase or full height glass wall:- double+ laminated+ tempered ( to comply with code 'barrier for fall' )

C) for door and shower; single glazed + tempered

Edited October 24, 2012 by jumbopanther

[Suyun 0]

Good info on the glass. Single glazed with solar film lamination is also another alternative to use for glass doors as tempered glass is expensive, and solar film can reduce heat, uv damage and glare in the house and works as added protection.

[jumbopanther 2]

Good info on the glass. Single glazed with solar film lamination is also another alternative to use for glass doors as tempered glass is expensive, and solar film can reduce heat, uv damage and glare in the house and works as added protection.

Yes. Smart combination.

[ehspro 0]

Someone asked me about sharing of storage heaters. My advice would be:

1) OK to share heaters bewteen 2 toilets (maximum) on the same floor and these 2 toilets are situated near to each other.

2) Try not to share more than 2 toilets.

3) Not recommended to share toilets between 2 different floors.

Reason:

For 3 or more toilets, you will probably need a bigger heater storage tank. Not only size will be bigger (meaning take up more space in your toilet or lower false ceiling), with more water storage capacity, this will take longer time to heat up the tank and/or bigger heating coil, either case will consume more electrical power.

2 toilets will be fine, tank need not be too big (more compact to conceal in the toilet and ceiling), and not everyone will bathe exactly at the same time. Heating will be faster due to smaller tank, and the built-in thermostat can cut-off the heating elements when water temp reaches the requirement. Therefore save energy.

To me, its a no, no to share between 2 toilets at different floors, because every time one bathe or stop bathing, one need to go to the other floor to turn on/off the heater. 2 way switch is a solution but it is costly to install a 2-way switch for heaters..

Hope the above clarifies.

Bro quick recap on this. I have installed a new 35L Joven Water Tank for 2nd and 1st level (Using the previous owner's configuration)and this unit will service 1st and 2nd floor toilet + dry kitchen + wet kitchen basin (newly installed) with mixers. I have one switch at 1st level toilet and another one at 2nd level toilet. I really have no idea how the pipings are layed out. Questions are

1. Do I need to turn on both switches to heat all the 4 locations?

2. Does it speed up the heating time/rate if both switches have been turned on?

3. What if I turn on one only- will it be sufficient?

Please advise sifu.... :bow:

[jumbopanther 2]

Hi ehspro,

2-way switches (assume if connect correctly), means if any 1 of them is switched on, turns on the heater.

So in short,

1) no need to turn on both switches to heat up the water for the 4 locations.

2) no, turn on both switches will not speed up the rate of heating.

3) turn on 1 is sufficient.

Hope above clarifies.

[ehspro 0]

Hi ehspro,

2-way switches (assume if connect correctly), means if any 1 of them is switched on, turns on the heater.

So in short,

1) no need to turn on both switches to heat up the water for the 4 locations.

2) no, turn on both switches will not speed up the rate of heating.

3) turn on 1 is sufficient.

Hope above clarifies.

Ok I have to do trial and error when the installation are completed...thanks buddy

Edited October 24, 2012 by ehspro

[jumbopanther 2]

Ok I have to do trial and error when the installation are completed...thanks buddy

Is the heater installed at Level 2?

[ehspro 0]

Is the heater installed at Level 2?

Yes. Why?

[jumbopanther 2]

Yes. Why?

Installing at Level 2 is the right location.

Since this heater is sharing with L1 shower + basin tap + 2 sinks, then its position at Level 2 high level, will create a high static head, in layman term, means there is enough pressure because water flows from Level 2 to Level 1.

If install at Level 1, then the water needs to flow back up to Level 2 shower and basin, this will possibly result in insufficient water pressure, especially if using rainshower.

[ehspro 0]

Ha this one I know. I used to be engineering trained. Thanks buddy

[seanliewce 0]

On the topic of windows: mainly two types of window, casement (swing open)and sliding.

So which is better? To each individual preference, some considerations:

In terms of airflow: Generally, if you want maximum opening and to allow wind to flow in, choose casement type, for sliding, the last panel will still remain in place and therefore, maximum opening is still smaller than casement type.

Aesthetically: the casement type generally appear to be neater ( when looking from the external) as all the window panes are installed on a single plane ( meaning single track), whereas for sliding, depending on window opening size, some could be 3 to 4 panels, installed on a wider track; when closed, you can see the windows not in one single plane alignment but staggered inwards.

In terms of ease of opening and closing, sliding is better, because for casement swing open type, one needs to extend the arm and push out wide or pull back, if there are furnitures placed in front of the window, this will make opening and closing of the window more difficult.

This issue is made worse if one is short and has big swing windows, and with the lever usually mounted in the centre (who says lever Must be at center??)which is too high relatively. Make opening & closing more difficult.

Also, if you are looking for insulation properties (sound and/or heat), casement windows with multi-point (espag) locks perform much better than sliding windows.

Edited October 25, 2012 by seanliewce

[seanliewce 0]

Following the topic on window, let me touch on 'Glass'. Sometimes, ID or contractor throw out different terms for glass and what do they actually mean?

There are different terms referring to glass generally as follows:

1) single glaze: usually 6-10mm the, 1 plane that look like this:

2) double glaze: generally 12-14 mm thick, 2 pieces of glass stick together, look like this

3) tempered glass - means the glass are treated so that if breaks, it will not shred into sharp glass pieces but end up as fragmented pieces like 'ice' so will not cut so seriously, look like this:

4)laminated glass- the above piece is not only tempered but also laminated, such that a film holds the broken pieces of glass together and not 'rain down'

So naturally, thicker the glass or tempered + laminated will be more ex and heavy too.

Application: general rule ( also depend on individual)

A) for windows- single glaze 6-8mm

B) for staircase or full height glass wall:- double+ laminated+ tempered ( to comply with code 'barrier for fall' )

C) for door and shower; single glazed + tempered

Should have added some info one which glass type is useful for what kind of insulation, like heat or sound. Most people don't know these performances. For example, if we talk about heat insulation, the solar film on a single glazed glass does not perform anywhere near a double glazed of configuration 6-12-6 (6mm glass - 12mm air - 6mm glass). We are talking about 3-4 times better insulation for using double glazed as compared to single glazed with any kind of film

[jumbopanther 2]

Hi you are right, double glazed with yr description is generally better in insulation and sound to single glazed with film, but its cost will be higher also.

Nevertheless, I have to be careful not to use too technical terms in this Reno forum for the benefits of the majority, otherwise no one will understand. Strictly speaking, technically, for glass, we should also talk about Low-Emissivity, low U value, reflectance, so on and so forth, but not my intention to turn this to a technical study.

Whether double is better than single for sound and insulation, I leave it to forummers who will be smart to judge for themselves, also taking account into cost vs practicality.

I suppose for general housing and residential use, the above will be sufficient. if forummers want to know more, usually they will ask and I will be glad to share also ( whether public or pm)

I welcome more experts to share, of course, so we can learn.

[GMC 12]

Bro quick recap on this. I have installed a new 35L Joven Water Tank for 2nd and 1st level (Using the previous owner's configuration)and this unit will service 1st and 2nd floor toilet + dry kitchen + wet kitchen basin (newly installed) with mixers. I have one switch at 1st level toilet and another one at 2nd level toilet. I really have no idea how the pipings are layed out. Questions are

1. Do I need to turn on both switches to heat all the 4 locations?

2. Does it speed up the heating time/rate if both switches have been turned on?

3. What if I turn on one only- will it be sufficient?

Please advise sifu.... :bow:

ehspro,

By default from developer, Level 1's heater is located in the kitchen (for my layout), but switch is at the Level 1 Powder Room. Level 2 toilet has its own heater, level 3 has 2 heaters.