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You r not covering it ? I think mine is covered. Let me check later.... Don't seem to have seen this part before haha!!! :horse:

For now not covering, just touch up on the steel mesh

 

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Join 46,923 satisfied homeowners who used renotalk quotation service to find interior designers. Get an estimated quotation

For construction, there are many aspects for consideration. Since on the topic of water supply points, perhaps I share on the water supply provisions for my Hse.

I will be installing double head taps (one for connecting to hose and one for direct flow- easy wash and fill up pail)

1) front carporch area - for general washing and washing car

2) for backyard wash area - to wash wet kitchen and general washing

3) in one of the toilets nearest to the outdoor aircon compressors - this is important because during service and maintenance, the contractors will need to pull a hose connecting to a water tap point to jet wash the outdoor compressors; so is important to allow for a hose connecting tap near to the aircon compressors

Double head tap

EC71C880-07AE-46AB-B8BF-0A03F9FB5C91-303-00000046C7425BCB.jpg

Outdoor aircon condensing units ( need to pull water hose to wash these)

DD3E9FF1-9C14-4611-BE86-8817BF45DC1C-303-000000441315EE5B.jpg

 

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Tiling for wet kitchen stove and wall.

As I have sufficient time, rather than have a few different contractors doing tiling for different areas, actually I preferred one same contractor to do for all, so that the whole house can maintain the same standard throughout, and main contractor agreed.

This is one of the reason why I never rush the contractor as far as tiling is concerned. I need him to be detail, thorough and precise, no cutting of corners or short-cuts. Spoken about this prior to tiling starts.

journeyphoto819.jpg

Again, instead of using just pure cement for tiling (which most contractor prefers, because its cheaper and dry faster), contractor used a better quality E-fix, (actually more expensive, dry slower, but was known to be more secured)

journeyphoto817.jpg

Almost done

journeyphoto832.jpg

As it is for wet kitchen purpose, all the walls tiles are chosen to be shiny surface (instead of matt) for ease of wiping due to heavy cooking. Including internal walls below the kitchen stove

journeyphoto836.jpg

 

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Jumbopanther, are you intending to have a hood for your wet kitchen? My wet kitchen is in a similar position as yours, in the yard and we were wondering if we should install a hood so as not to disturb the neighbours with the smell from the cooking.

 

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Jumbopanther, are you intending to have a hood for your wet kitchen? My wet kitchen is in a similar position as yours, in the yard and we were wondering if we should install a hood so as not to disturb the neighbours with the smell from the cooking.

Some solutions:

1) Best technically is to have a hood and duct it to discharge to the external, (strictly speaking, good to add carbon filter and UV light to remove smell and fume)

2) Alternatively, some build up a full partition all the way up to seperate between Neighbour and yr Hse and leave it as that. Smell should not go to neighbor Hse too. But note: authority requirements is max 1.8 m ht seperation .

3) install the effective hood similar to 'fujijoh' brand (I am not related to this brand and no commission too, haha); stand alone and neat, no ducting required.

All depends how heavy cooking you intend. (1) is for very heavy cooking, (3) is for medium, (2) is for light cooking

For me, likely will be combination of some of the above.

Edited by jumbopanther
 

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I love the wet kitchen look. The black tiles you chose are nice. Mine is black too. :sport-smiley-004:

 

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Yes, black is nice and can go with most colour. Great minds think alike!

Jumbopanther, i just went through your blog and I must say that i am most impressed with your contractor's works. Thanks also for sharing your pointers. You are indeed very learned! I wished i read this blog earlier...but perhaps better late than never. Could you pm me your contractor's details? thanks very much

 

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Hi Pud, thank you for yr kind words. Just sharing what I know so that fellow forummers can benefit in one way or another, or at least become more informed.

I had pm you something.

 

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For tiling, there are different aspects of laying them:

1) Whether to be in-line (tile length to tile length side by side) or alternate (one tile edge to centre of another tile) -up to individual preference, but understand some tilers usually prefer alternate laying - because if the tiles are not really straight, alternate laying will not show the obvious.

2) Whether longer length is laid 'horizontally' from left to right or 'vertically' top to bottom - to me no hard and fast rule, up to individual preference also, but generally if it is a longer room, the longer length of tile will be laid the opposite so as to create a 'wider' room effect.

3) Another aspect which to me is more important, is the gradient, especially for outdoor tiling, if gradient is not done properly, you will end up with puddle of water stagnant at locations - big headache.

When I first bought the house, before A&A, as it is on higher ground, the slope to the front entrance is previously quite steep, easy to slip and fall, especially on rainy days

So 3 ways to mitigate this:(A) Select tiles that are rougher in surface; (B) Bring the beginning of slope line further in towards the house - hack down deeper; ©Lay the tiles horizontally instead of vertically - in order to create more tiles lines for frictional purpose.

One more point to add, for slope ground, don't lay the longer length of tile following the slope, it will crack easily.

See this photo that shows the beginning of slope line is further in from the column - and horizontal tiles start from here -

journeyphoto959.jpg

Another view:the slope is more gentle now - no need to worry anymore that old folks or children slipping

journeyphoto964.jpg

Hope the above clarifies and helpful.

Edited by jumbopanther
 

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Haha, everyone so curious where is my location, ok pm you already

Should just put a link in your signature. My place is @ xxx. My sft is xxx. :notti:

 

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During renovation, there will be lots of debris all over the place, the last thing you want is for the debris, like cements, bricks or stones to fall into the floor trap drain pipe or WC. Otherwise, you will experience Chokage that is very difficult and costly to clear.

Since the plumber is usually one of the last to install the fittings, his drain pipe will always be left expose, remind and check that the plumber seal off these drain pipe openings temporarily to prevent debris falling in.

Some use masking tape like this (good method but check regularly masking tape does not come off)

9E9E48A0-C977-46E6-BEDC-E11847A89C0C-5161-00000555C2BCE0B3.jpg

Some use newspaper to seal like this (not so good method)

journeyphoto899.jpg

Some more 'on', do a elbow turn (good method):

journeyphoto896.jpg

 

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