Downlight Help!..

[kunxeno 0]

Hi Guys

Need some advise

Im currently sourcing downlights for my new home and know that there are many types like LED, PLC, Energy savings etc

I have consodilated and now looking at PLC and Engery savings , when to a few shops and were recommened the below

1- OEM type, 2 PLC tube (2x13w + Balast 10w) , so total is about 36w per downlight $23

2- OEM type, 1 E27 tube (1x20w) no balast, so total is 20w and engery saving at $29 - brightness better the the 2 PLC

3- Philips PLC Energy Saving (1x15w), most expensive at $33

QUESTION

1-For item 1, is there anything like energy savings PLC?

2-As comparison, for the higher price of the downlights with energy saving bulbs (item 2 and item 3) is it worth the investment for long run?

3-Does lower Watt = lower brightness?

As i have about 21 downlights. Im worry about electic consumation.

Please give me some advise

Below my lighting plan

Edited January 9, 2012 by kunxeno

[figo007 0]

Hi Bro, I'd done my renovation on two years ago. For item 1, my ID suggested to get the (2x18W + Balast 13W) instead of the 13W, the reason was due to slightly bigger fixture fitting on the 18W, to save cost you will still be able to mount with 13W G24 PLC lights. I'm using Osram cool white with Atco ballast, so far not much problem after 2 years plus. But I'm currently replacing all my 13W and 18W G24 with the LED lights to check for any cost saving. I'm currently just started on this experiment, still don't have any data to compare yet

[kunxeno 0]

thanks for your feeback bro

I just contacted another shop

The OEM type, 1x E27 tube (1x20w) no balast,Price is $24 , so i tink nw this is cheaper and more energy saving then the double PLC

for the fixture wise, yesterday i compare, its the same size as the 2xPLC(13w)

So you guys tink i should buy item 2 instead of item 1?

[yoongf 11]

My advice..

1. Try not to use PLC. Use E27 holders instead. If PLC, and not bright/ too bright, u cannot adjust the wattage due to different PLC holder. E27 u can simply change the bulb to lower/higher wattage.

2. Your corridor outside the bedrooms, 2 downlight is enough?

3. Try to put in wardrobes before u do yr lighting plan. If u do without consideration for wardrobe, then ur light may be off centre with walkway in bedrooms/ kitchen/ service balcony.

4. Works areas.. like kitchen and toilets.. I prefer to do very bright by using multiple lightbulb fixtures. When wake up early morning.. going into a super bright toilet really wakes a person up. Therefore, toilet.. consider 1 down light at shower area, 1 at basin area.

5. Kitchen avoid using downlight, due to shadows. Florescent tubes or undercounter T5 is best for kitchen so got lesser shadows.

[kunxeno 0]

Thanks for the advise

after hearing from you...i guess the E27 is the way to go...energy saving

1. Try not to use PLC. Use E27 holders instead. If PLC, and not bright/ too bright, u cannot adjust the wattage due to different PLC holder. E27 u can simply change the bulb to lower/higher wattage.

Yes E27 for downlights

2. Your corridor outside the bedrooms, 2 downlight is enough?

There will be 3 downlights at corridor

3. Try to put in wardrobes before u do yr lighting plan. If u do without consideration for wardrobe, then ur light may be off centre with walkway in bedrooms/ kitchen/ service balcony.

Yup, these will be up first.Thanks

4. Works areas.. like kitchen and toilets.. I prefer to do very bright by using multiple lightbulb fixtures. When wake up early morning.. going into a super bright toilet really wakes a person up. Therefore, toilet.. consider 1 down light at shower area, 1 at basin area.ht

For kitchen i plan to put a 2 or 3 tube ceiling light

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm10/kunxeno/y%20New%20Home%20-%20Nov%202011%20-%20Sunshine%20Court%20CCK/DSCF0075.jpg

For toliet, will be using square big LED

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm10/kunxeno/y%20New%20Home%20-%20Nov%202011%20-%20Sunshine%20Court%20CCK/DSCF0078.jpg

There will be T5 at basin area

5. Kitchen avoid using downlight, due to shadows. Florescent tubes or undercounter T5 is best for kitchen so got lesser shadows.

T5 will also be use at kitchen undercounter

Edited January 9, 2012 by kunxeno

[erwin123 0]

I used a mixture of PLC and MR16 LED downlights in my major reno.

On hindsight, I would have substituted some of the PLC downlights with the Philips 59600 9w GX5.3 downlight. The ability to tilt and rotate would be very useful in some areas.

To me, a 9w GX5.3 downlight seems brighter than a 13w PLC downlight.

http://www.lightings.com.sg/downlights.html

There's also this:

Edited January 10, 2012 by erwin123

[kunxeno 0]

this is nice but cost another factor

[blue_skies 3]

You could also think about having how many lights come on when you turn on the light switch.

E.g. your living room has 6 downlights but you can arrange it such that only 3 lights comes on when you press the switch once, but when you press it twice, then all the lights come on. This will help save electricity because you don't always need all the lights to be on at the same time.

[collins 0]

Agree with Blue_skies. You can group your lights discreetly to suit different scenarios and save energy at the same time.

Consider the lighting requirement while watching TV in the living room, relaxing in early evening / night time and allocate appropriate number of lights to each switch.

[kunxeno 0]

Agree with Blue_skies. You can group your lights discreetly to suit different scenarios and save energy at the same time.

Consider the lighting requirement while watching TV in the living room, relaxing in early evening / night time and allocate appropriate number of lights to each switch.

so i guess to do this, i need relay for the lights rite?

example

6 lights in living area... 2 switchs

switch 1 control front 2 lights

switch 2 control middle and back row lights.

Switch 2 press once middle lights on, press 2nd time back row lights on, 3 press all on

[pinkturtle 0]

Digging an old thread,

what is a gd wattage for a E27 light bulb to be used in a downlight?

The ones from Philips are sold with 14W energy saving bulbs but I feel 14W is relatively on the high wattage side. I am thinking whether 8W is enough say if I use it in a lightbox?

[ursuladeux 0]

sianz. I didn't come to renotalk to read about the difference between magnetic and electronic ballast before buying. Lighting shop just gave us magnetic ballast without asking us. It was only when we installed the lights then we realised there is flicker. When I called to complain to the sales guy why he never checked with us whether should be magnetic or electronic ballast, he claimed that most people take magnetic ballast, cos electronic ballast is very expensive, almost same price as LED, which is like $88 - $98. May I know how much did you all buy your electronic ballast at for e.g. a PLC light at 18W?