zer0sg 0 Report post Posted September 13, 2011 My foyer frm main door to kitchen entrance is 5700 in dimension (entire stretch of the slate tiles). The wooden pillars are abt 4000 in dimension.5.7m? 5.7 ft you mean ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rover 0 Report post Posted September 13, 2011 5.7m? 5.7 ft you mean ?The floor plan put 5700, so it's 5.7m right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zer0sg 0 Report post Posted September 13, 2011 The floor plan put 5700, so it's 5.7m right?thats the width of my whole house! Yeah i dont think i should do a foyer in that case... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejszaka 0 Report post Posted September 13, 2011 5700mm. S.I. units. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gimz63251073 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 If i see it correctly...ur plan involves extending the kitchen? Not sure if its do-able.WIW with curtains = great idea!Do also plan ur washing machine outlet pipe to lead to your toilet, so probably have to swap space with your fridge.The open kitchen part is ok so long as there is no deep frying and the ventiliation in your hse is good. I have been having steamboats in my open kitchen, still enjoying it.. haha.The location of the full height shoe cabinet would block out natural light in the living room, perhaps u want to put it against the wall instead..? Storage space would seem to be an issue, e.g. for big items. The area occupied by the sofa in the study area could be better utilised to convert to storage area in my view. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stardust205 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 Hello zer0sg!Kudos for your daring and out-of-the-box layout! Noticed that there is alot of hacking.But I think lack of storage space will be a concern.. since your don't have any store-room. As for kitchen top cabinets blocking out the lights, you can choose brighter colors for your cabinets. That will certainly help to make the area look bigger.I understand the ceiling beams will block out the light too.. My kitchen has that too. I had considered combining my 2 toilets into 1 too, but aborted the idea that there may be instances where both need to use toilet at the same time. Well.. when nature calls (urgently), one can't control much. Just my 2c worth. Finally!!! I've finished the layout of the house. I took almost 2 weeks and many hours of brainstorming and measuring the actual place over and over again.. Here's the floorplan of the idea in my head!!1) Created an artificial "foyer" at the entrance. Not sure whether to use different colour tiles for that small area - will it look weird? The recess under the windows with a depth of 16cm - thinking of creating a stone wall design with sleek shelves pure for aesthetics. Thats a KIV though. 2) The study-cum-living-cum-work room. Decided to utilised the recess under the windows as leg space for my suspended study table and because i am unable to hack the piece of wall in that room (due to the TV antenna signal cable which is locate there) I thought of hiding it in a book shelf (which faces the study table...) Right the the corner is a recent idea - a small half sofa ? Basically same design and pattern as the one in the lviing room but half. Was thinking of lounging there to watch videos on my computer or read a book. 3) The Living Room. Walls pushed back to create more space between sofa (its not an L shape... the leg rest portion is retractable) and the 46 inch TV console...Dining area is right under the beam (will be installing lights underneath) a forummer once advised... love your beams and you will start to have good ideas with them in mind...4)An open concept kitchen - am toying with the idea of not having and top cabinets for the sink / induction cooker area... something different and less cramping. Would get a single hob induction just to boil water ...2 door fridge / microwave / oven / cabinets etc etc blahblah and we have the dryer/washer stack next door An semi hollow block wall is erected to cordon off that area - for 2 westies..... thinking of bathing them there as well... may have to install a mini shower head at the back. 5) ~the new toilets~Have decided the combine the toilets into one and do an extended dry vanity for storage and well... vanity purposes. =) The wall inbetween MBR and toilet will be hacked completed and replaced glass - bigger shower area, opens up the space. 6) The ROOOM Entrances are from the bathroom area or the study area. whereby the "white colour walls" are full length mirrors.... and the slimmer one - is a sliding mirror door which opens up into 2 parallel wardrobes ... Will use the beam that follows after the wardrobes to install curtains .... a temporary "storeroom"... when you need to do some last minute tidying for guests coming over... =) A king sized bed with leather storage bed bed and half height plushie head board (dark colours complimenting the parquet flooring) and a settee create at the corner (the window there is rather longish... very suitable for a bay window effect... frthermore.. i've already erected a new wall there...) Any comments? =))) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lobo76 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 I had considered combining my 2 toilets into 1 too, but aborted the idea that there may be instances where both need to use toilet at the same time. Well.. when nature calls (urgently), one can't control much. Just my 2c worth. haha... unless you want to pee into the bathroom drainage, it won't make a difference. This one is not NG where there is a MBR toilet with it's own toilet facilities. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zer0sg 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 gimz63251073 : Yeah fingers cross on alot of items I plan to do. i think all that is left internally is a piece of the MBR wall =) Tha's a good suggestion! the washing machine swaption. Hmm the shoe cabinet will be designed like a letter C to allow for natural light as well as a place for deco / keys / letters etc. Yeah ... i'm thinking hard now about the thigns i need to store... its not as easy coming up with a list .. all i have so far is my desktop ! lol stardust205 : thank you! actually the IDs i've been liasing with said the same thing with lines like " oh yar... thats a good idea and why didnt i think of that" and i'm like " yeah precisely dude" Hrmm Glossy-finish kitchen cabinets? How did you beautify your beams? i think my kitchen height is 2.3m... false ceiling there is almost too daring. The toilets : haa its a matter of mutual respect i guess.... i just thought of this yesterday though ... how the heck am i going to bathe the dogs ?!?? the shower area looks small! and dogs arent exactly cooperative during bathsJust a quick thought as well... Can i use one aircon in the lviing / kitchen area? Do you think it would be sufficient to cool the area? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejszaka 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2011 An aircon expert friend told me to use this formula to determine if aircon is strong enough.Room Length (feet) x Room Width (feet) x 55 = BTU/hrSo go calculate the total area and see whether got a BTU that is strong enough? I think besides the horse power, the location of the blower also very impt, given that HDB 3I layout very long. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zer0sg 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 I was quoted 10 and 13 for the study and MBR respectively (MSY-GE10+MSY-GE13) under a 20btu compressor (MXY-2E20) + a 18 and 13 for the living / kitchen area (MSY-GE13 + MSY-GE18) under a 28btu compressor (MXY-3A28) for $5500. Can anyone advise if this is necessary? is the price expensive as well ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rover 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 I duno wat I'm currently doing is correct cos I dun really go onto such details on aircon methodology. I'm currently living in a 4NG and am using a Sys-3, ie one for each bedroom. No aircon at the living room. In the event where I hv guests coming or function, I'll on all the 3 aircons and let the cool air surround the entire house (less the kitchen, which my sliding door will be shut.Any expert comment on whether wat I'm doing is wrong? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejszaka 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) If it's not regularly (and only for a couple of hours) then I suppose it's ok ba. Doesn't seem like a good idea leh. For starters, sure not cold enough. Will also put strain to the blowers and compressor cos it's working more than it should, and is not built to cool all 3 rooms and hall at the same time. Depending on how the blowers are located, if it's blowing inwards towards the room window, sure the 'coldness' won't come out to the hall. Edited September 26, 2011 by ejszaka Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejszaka 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 I was quoted 10 and 13 for the study and MBR respectively (MSY-GE10+MSY-GE13) under a 20btu compressor (MXY-2E20) + a 18 and 13 for the living / kitchen area (MSY-GE13 + MSY-GE18) under a 28btu compressor (MXY-3A28) for $5500. Can anyone advise if this is necessary? is the price expensive as well ?Wah... 2 compressors and 4 blowers for 3room flat ah? That's very powderful and excessive leh. If the walk in wardrobe door is closed most times, I think 10 for room enough liao right? And use the combination of 18+18, 13+18 or 13+13 for the study, dining and living room area. Position the blowers at the more important activity areas of the house, and let the kitchen get 'passive' aircon? I bought the Toshiba inverter, they have a 16 machine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zer0sg 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) oh yar... i decided to use an ID afterall... gave up. Afraid of the inability to manage the project. Bad ideas / colour combi and reno kokups.Still puzzled over this whole air con thingy. what is cool enough and what is too cold!!!!!!! Edited September 26, 2011 by zer0sg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ejszaka 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) Everything is subjective lah. Which is why I advise u to use the standard formula just to estimate the BTU required. Aircon guy came and say even if the BTU is enough, the placement of blower will determine where is cooler and where is not so cool, cos the cold air distrbution can never be perfectly even. So if your blower is in some far corner of the room, it won't reach certain parts properly also. So it has to be positioned somewhere.. where u conduct the majority of your activities.. and needs the most cooling. Oh .. and for resale HDB, we are also restricted by how the trunking runs.. and might have to sub-optimise cos can't run here or there.. because of this or that. especially true if u need it to be hidden. Hence I've got fake partitions and walls everywhere... from x inches it becomes x+2 inches.. to accomodate this and that... end up.. the space becomes smaller. *sigh*. Edited September 26, 2011 by ejszaka Share this post Link to post Share on other sites