Glass Backplash At Kitchen - Will You Accept This Kind Of Workmanship?

[Eurypylus 0]

The switch and socket outlet faceplate can be remove leaving the wire.

The glass maker measure the allowance for the "hole" for the connector + screw hole for the face plate then cut out from a single piece. The screw hole can be 1-2cm widen as it will be cover by the face plate.

A bit off topic here, I've plenty issue with the glass that my main contractor use for my glass sliding door as well.

First they give me the two handle cut out 10cm difference in height, then they come again to replace it... during the job of replacement, they scratch the fixed panel of the glass badly, then come again to replace it. Those glass maker must learn the lesson that if they hire cheap semi standard FT, they'll end up losing more.

[edenstrauss 3]

The workmanship is terrible.

The power points looked really old or reused. Even if they redo, I think there are chances that it'll look worse becox dismantling would cause scuff marks & stains.

Should deduct $ from the reno bill.

[user123 5]

Actually its will be quite hard to ans u this qns, especially for us who r in this line, hope you understand. For those who not in this line will then don't know how to tell you. Show u this pic and you gauge it yourself.

Hi Jaskel,

From the two images u posted, I can see there's a thin gap btw sockets, so are those area seamless or 2 pieces?

Hi All who responded,

I did have an ID who take care of the whole reno...but I learnt now that "paying peanuts, will get monkeys to do the works"

No one ever voice concern that the power socket need to be at least 2-3 inches lower from the top hanging cabinet.

I think now the solution is to ask them do one whole piece and like what "pckee" did, use boxes for the points and switches, but then again they need to drill the hole on the glass for the existing wire to come out and also the holes for the box to be screw to the wall.

headache!

[BlueFly 0]

I did have an ID who take care of the whole reno...but I learnt now that "paying peanuts, will get monkeys to do the works"

No one ever voice concern that the power socket need to be at least 2-3 inches lower from the top hanging cabinet.

I think now the solution is to ask them do one whole piece and like what "pckee" did, use boxes for the points and switches, but then again they need to drill the hole on the glass for the existing wire to come out and also the holes for the box to be screw to the wall.

headache!

Who says the power socket has to be 2-3 inches lower than the top hanging cabinet? You can locate the power sockets right at both top corners. The glass cutting would then be more straight forward and simpler. In fact, your electrical connections and sockets should be located as far away from the stove as possible, and that means right at the 2 top corners opposite to each other with the burner centered on the worktop. My glass panel was cut that way - you can see that in my photos.

Second, have you considered: if your power and light switches are indeed "flat" plates instead of box-like, why not ask yr electrician if the plates can sit squarely and "flat" on the glass panel? If that is possible you could save the added cost of removing and re-installing the electrical works, since then holes could be drilled on the glass panel (instead of cutting the glass) to allow the wires to pass through and the plates sealed with silicone meant for glass aquariums. Silicone sealant is used to hold and cement aquarium glass sides together. If the silicone is strong enough to hold the glass panels of a large aquarium, it should be strong enough to hold the electrical plates. I am not an electrician however, so pl don't take my suggestion without checking with one or more honest and licensed electricians first. Obviously you must bear in mind the electrician has vested interest and may not be entirely honest with you i.e. if he can earn from re-doing yr electrical works, why not? So you need to find answers from some one you can trust, maybe even approach Power Supply staff for advice, as I did on a license issue (highlighted on my blog) and I avoided being "chopped" by the electrician.

So please think carefully and find out more before you make more mistakes. Like another reader whose power socket had "melted" bcoz he had it installed inside his microwave oven cabinet - his post is on Renotalk on other threads, I think. His contractor never advised him, neither did his electrician or the ID.

You have to read up to learn from mistakes other people made. Renotalk is an excellent forum to learn and share. In my case I had a good ID, but even though I planned myself and did not depend entirely on my ID, I still made mistakes. Those mistakes cost me dearly! Read here and here to know what mistakes I made so you don't make them.

I also found my ID was doing too many projects to pay close attention to mine. Even if he did, I don't think he was able to prevent the problems I faced. In fact, he plainly forgot to advise the sub-con what I had told him to watch out for. To help others, I posted my mistakes on my blog, it is too long to post here. Hopefully readers will avoid the mistakes I made.

Hope that helps, and please share your experience when your problem has been resolved to your satisfaction, ok?

Cheers

Bluefly

Edited February 22, 2011 by BlueFly