istel 0 Report post Posted November 5, 2010 Updated with my proposed floor plan, expecting changes to happen but hopefully it'll not deviate too much from what I've planned... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
istel 0 Report post Posted November 6, 2010 Here are some of the "inspirations" that I had while searching the net... haha... If possible, I would like to do this for my L kitchen... However do the bros here think it's feasible? I wonder if it costs a bomb to customize the solid top... :/ If the above idea is a no go... I would like to do this instead... This might be one of the plan to save costs on the kitchen cabinets. Customize the kitchen cabinet on one side of the wall and get an Ikea shelf for the other side... ... limit of 5 pics per post is really quite irritating... haiz... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
istel 0 Report post Posted November 6, 2010 (edited) Hope to include this condiments shelf into the kitchen cabinet design although I would not put it so near the oven... For the top kitchen cabinet shelf... You think the carpenters can do it? Not sure if I have enough space in the shower room to do the shelving for my vanity sink... Edited November 6, 2010 by istel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neubie 2 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 Here are some of the "inspirations" that I had while searching the net... haha... If possible, I would like to do this for my L kitchen... However do the bros here think it's feasible? I wonder if it costs a bomb to customize the solid top... :/ if not wrong this design is rather dated, offers no pratical usage apart for putting things at tabletop. If the above idea is a no go... I would like to do this instead... This might be one of the plan to save costs on the kitchen cabinets. Customize the kitchen cabinet on one side of the wall and get an Ikea shelf for the other side... ... limit of 5 pics per post is really quite irritating... haiz... first, decide how are u going to use the storage and how much storage space u need. if u dun need so much space, can just settle with the bottom cabinet and forego the top cabinet. that should save some costs for not doing the upper cabinet. solid top is charged at 70+ psf. alternatively u can build the bottom cabinet using concrete support with homogeneous tiles as solidtop, durability confirmed outlast wood cabinet. but design looks dated though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neubie 2 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 For the top kitchen cabinet shelf... You think the carpenters can do it? yes, can do, but may be more exp due to the telescopic arm mechanism, initially i wanted to do up Blum Aventos system for my dish rack, but the price of the lift mechanism was 160+, so settled for telescopic hydraulic arm. Not sure if I have enough space in the shower room to do the shelving for my vanity sink... look closely again, the washbasin is some distance away from the shower area. anyway, the idea of shelving under sink is not maximised becos the shelves need to make way for the drainage pipe and bottle-trap, so might as well dun put. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
istel 0 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 if not wrong this design is rather dated, offers no pratical usage apart for putting things at tabletop. Yeah, it's just to save the kitchen cabinet length... Save one foot cost? lol... first, decide how are u going to use the storage and how much storage space u need. if u dun need so much space, can just settle with the bottom cabinet and forego the top cabinet. that should save some costs for not doing the upper cabinet. Am discussing with various contractors... Some were saying if don't do top then have to do box up for the piping and electric cables... solid top is charged at 70+ psf. alternatively u can build the bottom cabinet using concrete support with homogeneous tiles as solidtop, durability confirmed outlast wood cabinet. but design looks dated though. Yeah... I know what you mean, saw those concrete cabinets before when I was still house hunting, the agent was telling me can put granite top somemore with the concrete support yes, can do, but may be more exp due to the telescopic arm mechanism, initially i wanted to do up Blum Aventos system for my dish rack, but the price of the lift mechanism was 160+, so settled for telescopic hydraulic arm. $160 is quite reasonable liaoz bro, the ones I talked to quoted me $300... look closely again, the washbasin is some distance away from the shower area. anyway, the idea of shelving under sink is not maximised becos the shelves need to make way for the drainage pipe and bottle-trap, so might as well dun put. Yeah... Not enough space to implement I guess... sigh... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
istel 0 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 Here's one of the quotes from my short listed contractors... Bros around here any idea if any VO is missing from this list? This quote overshot my planned budget by 10k -_-; Although, I'm planning to take out the glass partition, new doors, outsource laminates and aircon... Seems like it's still no where near 20k, the amount that I could still stomach... HACKING HACKING OF EXISTING SKIRTING FOR LIVING HALL AND 2 BEDROOMS HACKING OF EXISTING WALL TILES FOR KITCHEN AND WC AND BATHROOM HACKING OF EXISTING TOILET FITTING, SINK AND STOVE SUPPORTS 480 HACKING OF NEW ENTRANCE BETWEEN BATHROOM AND BEDROOM HACKING OF 1/2 WALL BETWEEN BATHROOM AND TOILET HACKING OF EXISTING WALL BETWEEN KITCHEN AND LIVING HALL DISMANTLE AND DISPOSAL OF EXISTING KITCHEN CABINET, WARDROBE AND CEILING CORNICES 980 LIVING HALL AND 2 BEDROOMS SUPPLY/OVERLAY LAMINATED FLOORING WITH SKIRTING FOR LIVING HALL & 2 BEDROOMS 1790 SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT TILES FOR ENTRANCE KERB 150 LIVING HALL: SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT L-BOX FOR LIVING HALL 480 LVING HALL: SUPPLY/LAY 12NOS. LIGHTING POINTS AND LABOUR TO INSTALL 12 NOS. PLC LIGHTS 516 SUPPLY/INSTALL ALUMNIUM GRILLES FOR LIVING HALL AND COMMON BEDROOM 280 SUPPLY/INSTALL 2 NOS. CLASSIC DOOR2 C/W LOCK SET FOR BOTH BEDROOMS 440 Utility SUPPLY/INSTALL 1 NOS. CLASSIC DOOR C/W LOCK SET FOR UTILITY 220 SUPPLY/OVERLAY FLOOR TILES FOR UTILITY (<$3PSF) 350 KITCHEN SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT CERAMIC/HOMOGENEOUS FLOOR TILES FOR KITCHEN (<$3PSF) 980 WATERPROOFING FOR KITCHEN 250 SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT FULL HEIGHT WALL TILES FOR KITCHEN (EXCLUDE CABINET AREA)<$2.70PSF 1,950 CONSTRUCTION OF FRIDGE, WASHING MACHINE AND CABINET BASES 450 SUPPLY/INSTALL 1 NO. SLIDING DOOR AND 2 NOS. FIXED PANELS AT KITCHEN ENTRANCE (10MM TEMPERED GLASS) 1,480 TO RUN OUTLET PIPING FOR WASHING MACHINE AND SINK 90 REPLACEMENT OF RUBBISH CHUTE (NEW MODEL C/W FRAME/FLUSH TO WALL) 250 SUPPLY/INSTALL A PAIR OF BAMBOO STICK HOLDERS 40 SUPPLY/INSTALL SOILD LAMINATED KITCHEN CABINET (TOP/BOTTOM=30FT)(INCLUDE STAINLESS STEEL DISHRACK, 2 GLASS PANELS, DESIGN HANDLES AND CUTLERY TRAY) 3,000 SUPPLY/INSTALL SOLID SURFACE TOP FOR KITCHEN CABINET (16FT) 1,280 SUPPLY LABOUR TO INSTALL COOKER HOOD, HOB, OVEN, SINK & TAP 50 SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT FALSE BEAM TO SUPPORT TEMPERED GLASS PANELS FOR KITCHEN ENTRANCE 180 TO MAKE GOOD ON AFFECTED AREA AFTER DEMOLITION OF WALL BETWEEN LIVING AND KITCHEN 150 SUPPLY/INSTALL SOFT CLOSING FOR ALL KITCHEN CABINET DOORS AND 4 DRAWERS 480 BATHROOM AND TOILET SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT NON-SLIP FLOOR TILES 680 WATERPROOFING TO BE CARRIED OUT 200 SUPPLY/CONSTRUCT FULL HEIGHT WALL TILES FOR WC AND BATHROOM (<$2.70 psf) 1,580 SUPPLY LABOUR TO INSTALL 1 NO. TOILET BOWL AND BASIN 180 SUPPLY/INSTALL 1 NO. SLIDING DOOR BETWEEN BATHROOM AND TOILET 290 SUPPLY/INSTALL 2 SETS OF ALUMINIUM/ACRYLIC BI-FOLD DOORS FOR WC AND BATHROOM 520 SUPPLY LABOUR TO INSTALL TOILET ACCESSORIES PURCHASED BY OWNER 40 SUPPLY LABOUR TO INSTALL 1 NO. INSTANT WATER HEATER 40 REPLACEMENT OF EXISTING WINDOW TO ADJUSTABLE TYPE AS PROPOSED 450 TO SEAL UP EXISTING ENTRANCE FOR BATHROOM WITH HOLLOW BLOCKS 320 WHOLE HOUSE AND GENERAL REPLACEMENT OF KITCHEN, WC AND BATHROOM EXISTING PIPES TO STAINLESS STEEL 690 7 SINGLE PWR PT=$350 ,7 DOUBLE PWR PT=$420 ,10 LIGHTING PT=$450 1220 1 A/C & 1 HEATER PT=$200 ,10 INSTALL LIGHT=$80 ,1 SCV=$100 ,2 TEL=$110 ,DISTRIBUTION BOARD=$280 770 PLASTERING OF WHOLE HOUSE WALLS AND CEILINGS 1350 PAINTING OF WHOLE HOUSE WALLS/CEILINGS WITH ICI PENTALITE OR NIPPON 5000(5 + 1 WHITE FOR CEILINGS) AND PAINTING OF DOOR FRAMES,PIPINGS AND GATE 880 SUPPLY/INSTALL 1 NO. WROUGHT IRON MAIN GATE C/W LOCK 480 SUPPLY/INSTALL 1 NO. SOLID MAIN DOOR C/W LOCK (NON FIRE RATED)AND VARNISHING 550 DEBRIS REMOVAL SERVICES TO BE CARRIED OUT 480 HAULAGE OF SAND TO BE CARRIED OUT 680 PATCH OF WIRE TRUNKING SHADOW AFTER REMOVED OLD ONE & PATCHING OF NEW WIRE TRUNKING GAPS 180 CHEMICAL WASHING FOR WHOLE HOUSE 90 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manutd1972 1 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 this quote looks like a contractor's quote, rather than an ID's. also, the electrical part....definitely way too ex, in my opinion. works out to $50 for a single 13A, $60 for a double 13A, A/C and Heater $100 each? And the lighting points and labour for lights installation is inconsistent. under the "General Works", labour for lights installation is $8 per light, and each lighting point costs $45. But in the "Living" portion, 12 lights and lighting points add up to 516. Assuming same labour charge of $8/lights for installation, den each lighting point here works out to be $35 per point. That's a difference of $10 per lighting point! Moreover, at $35 per lighting point, it's oredi expensive. $30/point is more like the average though there are cheaper ones if u search hard enough. Chemical wash also charging u? den is he gg to use protection paper for ur flooring during the carpentry phase? cos no mention of it. is he gg to charge u for the protection paper? Living L-box for 480? how big is the L-box? and every little thing to do wif labour he also charging u. labour to install this and that. tt's where the extra came frm. u didnt say hw big is the floor area for the laminates. this one u might find a cheaper quote if u out-source. i knw i did. Having said that, ur budget of 20k for a whole house overhaul is a bit on the low side. Even though u didn hack most of ur flooring, it still wun add up much to it. hacking work is cheap compared to the rest of reno works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manutd1972 1 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) I've planned for a budget around 16K for the activities above... I would hope if the bros and sisters in this forum find it doable? Activities that I would like to do outside the renovation budget that I've listed above are: - Replace all the doors currently in the house as well as the front gate - Glass partition to separate the kitchen from the living room as the wall linking the kitchen to living has been hacked down by previous owner think for these 2 items, it'll be easier for ur budgeting, financial control and accounting if u include them in ur reno works for the 16k. Things tt are done by ID/contractor shld be lumped into 1 budget, wif separate budgets for those items tt u intend to out-source. when i was doing my budgeting, i also separated a lot of things, den along the way, combined some, and den as i started out-sourcing, separated them again, and as my reno is currently underway, the numbers showed tt i've saved quite a bit and managed to get quite a bit done wif my limited budget too. Edited November 7, 2010 by manutd1972 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
istel 0 Report post Posted November 7, 2010 this quote looks like a contractor's quote, rather than an ID's. also, the electrical part....definitely way too ex, in my opinion. works out to $50 for a single 13A, $60 for a double 13A, A/C and Heater $100 each? And the lighting points and labour for lights installation is inconsistent. under the "General Works", labour for lights installation is $8 per light, and each lighting point costs $45. But in the "Living" portion, 12 lights and lighting points add up to 516. Assuming same labour charge of $8/lights for installation, den each lighting point here works out to be $35 per point. That's a difference of $10 per lighting point! Moreover, at $35 per lighting point, it's oredi expensive. $30/point is more like the average though there are cheaper ones if u search hard enough. Chemical wash also charging u? den is he gg to use protection paper for ur flooring during the carpentry phase? cos no mention of it. is he gg to charge u for the protection paper? Living L-box for 480? how big is the L-box? and every little thing to do wif labour he also charging u. labour to install this and that. tt's where the extra came frm. u didnt say hw big is the floor area for the laminates. this one u might find a cheaper quote if u out-source. i knw i did. Having said that, ur budget of 20k for a whole house overhaul is a bit on the low side. Even though u didn hack most of ur flooring, it still wun add up much to it. hacking work is cheap compared to the rest of reno works. Thanks for the heads up bro. You're right, it's a contractor's quote cause I don't really need a ID I guess... Electric works part... a couples of other contractors who quoted me are also in the range of around 1.2 to 1.4k... Should I outsource this portion of work in that case? They told me if outsource to other people, coordinate will result in delay of reno work -_-;; L-Box is supposed to be size of the living but not confirmed yet... Is it considered a good thing that he listed out all the labor charge rather than hiding them as hidden cost? Have to go back to him again to trash out all these issues I guess... think for these 2 items, it'll be easier for ur budgeting, financial control and accounting if u include them in ur reno works for the 16k. Things tt are done by ID/contractor shld be lumped into 1 budget, wif separate budgets for those items tt u intend to out-source. when i was doing my budgeting, i also separated a lot of things, den along the way, combined some, and den as i started out-sourcing, separated them again, and as my reno is currently underway, the numbers showed tt i've saved quite a bit and managed to get quite a bit done wif my limited budget too. I think after some considerations that I'll not go ahead with the glass partition and will just repaint all my existing doors. I'll still be changing the front gates though but not sure where to find the retro aluminum gate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neubie 2 Report post Posted November 8, 2010 (edited) Am discussing with various contractors... Some were saying if don't do top then have to do box up for the piping and electric cables... …… $160 is quite reasonable liaoz bro, the ones I talked to quoted me $300... Box up of water/gas pipes is not that exp, far cheaper than using cabinets to cover up. Save a little here and there will accumulate into the thousands, whats more u uv a tight budget to begin with. I suggest u start reviewing the more exp items like wall n floor tiles. Take a measuring tape n sum up the areas that's to be tiled up, add another 10% for wastage n skirting n check if tally with the quotation. I can see some items are cheap (like glass partition), some average (painting n plastering) while others are not. So in the end the cheaper items will hopefully offset out the exp ones n have an overall savings. If u really wanna outsource some of ur works, make sure u get ur main con for schedule n insert the outsourced work accordingly, making allowance for delays, exigencies, additional costs n other unforeseen issues (like finger pointing when something goes wrong). That's gg to incur u some considerable effort. Good luck. Edited November 8, 2010 by neubie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manutd1972 1 Report post Posted November 8, 2010 Thanks for the heads up bro. You're right, it's a contractor's quote cause I don't really need a ID I guess... Electric works part... a couples of other contractors who quoted me are also in the range of around 1.2 to 1.4k... Should I outsource this portion of work in that case? They told me if outsource to other people, coordinate will result in delay of reno work -_-;; usually tt's the tactic they use to try and keep u from out-sourcing so tt they can earn more frm u. we all knw tt they get commissions frm every sub-con and supplier they engage for each of their projects. tt's why it's important to get someone who can understand ur budget constraints and is willing to work wif u to maximise it for the benefit of ur home. this way, this ID/contractor would nt mind u out-sourcing when they knw tt the related item is very much more expensive when done thru him. eg, my ID's electrician. turns out to be someone i also knw, and hv engaged b4 in the past many many yrs ago for some trouble-shooting. i had called him months earlier to quote me his charges on the individual items and when he came for a survey wif my ID, fortunately, he didn recognise me and gave me his quote thru my ID. when i saw it, i flipped . it was so much higher than his direct quote to me. i told my ID abt it honestly and said i was definitely gg to out-source. he agreed and even supported it, knowing my budget was tight. in terms of coordination wif out-sourced subcons, u either ask assertively (aka demand gently) tt ur contractor deal wif ur subcons, or if no choice, den u'll hv to do the coordination urself. just keep bothering ur contractor by asking him very often when he needs who and wat, den call the respective subcon n arrange. sooner or later, he'll ask u for their direct contacts n call them himself....lol. L-Box is supposed to be size of the living but not confirmed yet... Is it considered a good thing that he listed out all the labor charge rather than hiding them as hidden cost? Have to go back to him again to trash out all these issues I guess... good or bad, really depends. fact tt he lists them means he's charging u for everything. some dun list, den later charge u. others, dun list, and do it FOC for u as a service. so b4 u sign on the dotted line, ask specifically. but if they're doing it FOC, dun ask them to put it dwn into the contract. some may take it negatively and feel u dun trust them. den, har bez liao... I think after some considerations that I'll not go ahead with the glass partition and will just repaint all my existing doors. I'll still be changing the front gates though but not sure where to find the retro aluminum gate too bad my doors all got thrown away b4 u started this. else u can hv them. my bedroom doors were both still in very good condition. even better than my main door. i thot of using 1 of them to replace my main, but size different. to cut cost, u can as u contemplated, repaint existing doors. nx time when u hv d budget, den replace the doors. same goes wif the main door and main gate. i'm keeping my main door, heavily-scratched as it is. just repaint it lor. my existing gate also very old and in bad shape, but no more budget to change. so keep and use first lor. later aft reno completed den see how lor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulchng 0 Report post Posted November 8, 2010 hey looking forward to seeing your progress too! keep each other posted ya Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dexufto 5 Report post Posted November 9, 2010 Hopefully, this is what the floor plan will look like after renovation without furnitures... Proposed Floorplan v1.1 (With Furnishings, furniture, electric work points) Red Lines for Power socket points Yellowish Lines for Light switches Have you considered whom are you engaging for installation of aircon. Noticed your aircon placement is in series (v1.0) with the rear wall of the bedrooms.. trunking will be an issue. Would you consider relocating the air-con back to back at the wall (diving the both rooms), it will save the ugly trunking. Unless you plan to have full-height cabinet at that area (which I don't see at v1.1) Just a thought ince i'm at the a/c stage of my reno. Updated with my proposed floor plan, expecting changes to happen but hopefully it'll not deviate too much from what I've planned... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neubie 2 Report post Posted November 9, 2010 <reserved for pics of flat after renovation completes> Hopefully, this is what the floor plan will look like after renovation without furnitures... Proposed Floorplan v1.0 Proposed Floorplan v1.1 (With Furnishings, furniture, electric work points) Red Lines for Power socket points Yellowish Lines for Light switches the placement of the queen size bed in the MBR will be squeezy for that person sleeping next to the wall to get in and out of bed. so may be better if the bed is placed along the length of the MBR. placement of wardrobe next to the aircon in the MBR may obstruct the airflow. can fit that square bathtub into the bathroom meh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
