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gantan88

My 3ng - Starting My Life Anew

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Today the worker continue to build my kitchen doorway entrance partition wall. Dunno why he cannot finish in one day. I rush down to site to see during lunch time. After work go see again, still the same status. Wa lao...

Surprise No. 1:

The Kitchen doorway partition wall is 7 inches thick! Just to accomodate the glass door to slide in between the 2 partitions. Eating into dining room space which is already so small...

Now feel like letting the glass door slide outside but the glass door sliding top hung track will be exposed.....

Today Gain City come install aircon. Very punctual. I rush down during lunch time to discuss on the trunking route. After work i go down again to check.. and ....

Surprise No. 2:

One aircon he mount slanted. Anyone got this experience? Can i call them back to adjust it?

wah 7 inches thick is like 2 walls man. i think it's a waste of floor space :o

aircon slanted means poor workmanship, call the supervisor to rectify

 

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Join 46,923 satisfied homeowners who used renotalk quotation service to find interior designers. Get an estimated quotation
wah 7 inches thick is like 2 walls man. i think it's a waste of floor space :o

aircon slanted means poor workmanship, call the supervisor to rectify

Yes, it is a waste of floor space/ The 7 inches thich wall also cause my dining light trunking to go off-centred. as initially i understand from my contractor is only 3 inches thick...

 

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Yes, it is a waste of floor space/ The 7 inches thich wall also cause my dining light trunking to go off-centred. as initially i understand from my contractor is only 3 inches thick...

then how your contractor explain 3 become 7?

actually I feel that one wall is enough. If you sandwich the glass with walls, if need to replace the glass, have to remove one of the walls.

I suggest you have one wall, one sliding glass, and one pelmet at the top to hide the track. this way you save on the floor space, have ease of maintenance, and cheaper. (er the last point only matters if you are in the planning stage)

Edited by ossify
 

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then how your contractor explain 3 become 7?

actually I feel that one wall is enough. If you sandwich the glass with walls, if need to replace the glass, have to remove one of the walls.

I suggest you have one wall, one sliding glass, and one pelmet at the top to hide the track. this way you save on the floor space, have ease of maintenance, and cheaper. (er the last point only matters if you are in the planning stage)

I told my contractor liao to do only 1 wall . Sliding track on living room side exposed. But the track itself already got a aluminium pelmet so it is not ugly (my contractor says). I can only trust him now. Anyway i have to give up the idea to sandwich the glass btw 2 walls. Cost twice as more and eat up my floor space.

2 sided wall + glass = 7 inches or so. I suspect is 7.5 inches to 8.

 

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I just realised i made one more mistake.

My living room ceiling light also off-centred. Because last minute i extended my L-Box. Now L-Box is up, trunking cannot shift liao.

:-S

 

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Pictures time....

House painted and the guys have started work on the partition. But still done halfway.

201001161055_330.jpg

They painted my green pipe to white, now the kitchen look so much nicer!

201001161056_332.jpg

My paints...

201001161057_334.jpg

The gypsum boards for the partition wall...

201001161105_331.jpg

Basin for kitchen toilet, Baron basin and Rubine tap. The baron WC not installed yet as they delivered wrongly.

201001091720_330.jpg

 

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Master bedroom aircon - Panasonic System 2. A bit slanted...

201001161058_335.jpg

Guest Bedroom aircon, also slanted, but the aircon man came today and they use the 平水尺 to show me that the aircon is straight, so the aircon looked slanted because the beam is slanted, not the aircon. And if i tilt the aircon, it may affect the water flow... and they will not be responsible if there is leakage or other problem...

201001161058_336.jpg

Master toilet basin and Baron WC. Dunno why they did not paint the pipe.

201001091720_331.jpg

Hager switch

201001161059_337.jpg

My whole chunk of power points, data point, SCV and Tel point at TV area... regret putting them altogether. Looks ugly.

201001161104_330.jpg

My electrician told me the SCV points that he bought for me has a booster inside which is necessary. Those normal SCV point does not have a booster inside and signal may be weak because we are distributing the incoming SCV signal to a few points in the house.

Anyone can comment on this? True?

Edited by gantan88
 

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Don't worry too much about the power points, scv points group. You could always put TV in front of them and they would not be seen anymore.

 

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Hey gantan,

Great pictures and work well done... :good: .progress looking good n smooth smooth ya !

Lokking forward for more pics.....so when is the HO ?

cHEERS!

:yamseng:

Handover ah? Suppose to be yesterday.... :-S

My baseline is end of the month, i have to move in for sure...

Tomorrow meeting Contractor to sort out the kitchen cabinet design.

Then it will be in....

 

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Don't worry too much about the power points, scv points group. You could always put TV in front of them and they would not be seen anymore.

If i use the tv console to cover them, i need to shift it further away from the wall cos the thickness of the socket. The my usable width for the living will be even narrower. But i think no choice liao...

I have an old TV console, a very simple one, intend to spray over it with the colour i want, do some DIY. Save some money. :-)

Edited by gantan88
 

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Went Jalan Besar and Balestier today to buy lightings and stuffs.

Bought my lightings at 2 places: lightings.com and 168 Trading. Total damage $591.86.

Bought Baron sink and Nobel sink tap and Turbo Hob from Royal Fanco. Total damage $510.

Also donated $30 to government because kanna parking summon at Jalan Besar. :-S

Tomorrow going to Ikea to buy sofa and possibly a bookshelf also.... need to see if it can fit into my room...

Edited by gantan88
 

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have you considered covering up the gap between the trunking and the aircon with plaster? this way you won't notice the slantness.

201001161058_335.jpg

 

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have you considered covering up the gap between the trunking and the aircon with plaster? this way you won't notice the slantness.

201001161058_335.jpg

Ah... something new...but 'staining' my new aircon with plaster... um... a minor concern for me is that the gap will trap dust but i can't clean it cos the gap is so small....

 

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Master bedroom aircon - Panasonic System 2. A bit slanted...

[ig]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/gantan88/Reno%20T-Blog/201001161058_335.jpg

Guest Bedroom aircon, also slanted, but the aircon man came today and they use the 平水尺 to show me that the aircon is straight, so the aircon looked slanted because the beam is slanted, not the aircon. And if i tilt the aircon, it may affect the water flow... and they will not be responsible if there is leakage or other problem...

[ig]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/gantan88/Reno%20T-Blog/201001161058_336.jpg

Master toilet basin and Baron WC. Dunno why they did not paint the pipe.

[ig]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/gantan88/Reno%20T-Blog/201001091720_331.jpg

Hager switch

[ig]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b148/gantan88/Reno%20T-Blog/201001161059_337.jpg

My whole chunk of power points, data point, SCV and Tel point at TV area... regret putting them altogether. Looks ugly.

201001161104_330.jpg

My electrician told me the SCV points that he bought for me has a booster inside which is necessary. Those normal SCV point does not have a booster inside and signal may be weak because we are distributing the incoming SCV signal to a few points in the house.

Anyone can comment on this? True?

wha.. u put so many points ar? Not sure about the booster thing but if you only hook on 1 TV from that point, I dun think will matter.

you never wrap up your air con? to prevent dust from going in.

Edited by alamak
 

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