ossify 1 Report post Posted December 14, 2009 I think aesthetically you can at least use those normal ceiling light aka hamburger light? There are very nice ones around too... ? Instead of fluorescent tubes... Haiz, i brought this up to my contractor and he says that his plastering takes care of all the corners and stuff.. very chim, dunno what they talking abt... maybe i jus find another contractor to do plastering and follow by painting. White teak is goo actually because it brighten up the whole room. Even in the dark, you can still see the flooring. :-) i'll dress the tubes up, you'll see contractors always try to justify their high prices just get multiple quotes and tell them you can get it at this price. if don't match, then just remove from the to-do list (this only works if you haven't signed on the line yet or are allowed to make amendments) yes my house is small so white is important Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 14, 2009 i'll dress the tubes up, you'll see contractors always try to justify their high prices just get multiple quotes and tell them you can get it at this price. if don't match, then just remove from the to-do list (this only works if you haven't signed on the line yet or are allowed to make amendments) yes my house is small so white is important Yes, in fact i have already told him that unless he can lower the cost, if not i will exclude the work dur to budget constraint. I have already excluded all the carpentry works, except the kitchen cabinet. :-p and he says he got a shock Actually have you ever do a rough calculation on the electricity bills if you use the fluroscent tubes, hamburger lights or downlights? I did. E.g for living room: Switch on 2 x Hamburger light = 2x32W = 64W. Switch on for 5 hours daily cost about $2 plus a month. Switch on 6 x downlights (2 x 13W plc each) = 6x2x13= 156W. Switch on for 5 hours daily = $5 plus per month For that additional $2 plus per month, you get a modern looking living room, worth it? Unless your dressed up flourescent tube is really part of your house theme, then it is another story la :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ossify 1 Report post Posted December 14, 2009 Yes, in fact i have already told him that unless he can lower the cost, if not i will exclude the work dur to budget constraint. I have already excluded all the carpentry works, except the kitchen cabinet. :-p and he says he got a shock Actually have you ever do a rough calculation on the electricity bills if you use the fluroscent tubes, hamburger lights or downlights? I did. E.g for living room: Switch on 2 x Hamburger light = 2x32W = 64W. Switch on for 5 hours daily cost about $2 plus a month. Switch on 6 x downlights (2 x 13W plc each) = 6x2x13= 156W. Switch on for 5 hours daily = $5 plus per month For that additional $2 plus per month, you get a modern looking living room, worth it? Unless your dressed up flourescent tube is really part of your house theme, then it is another story la :-) i rather have cheap and modern do note your initial costs and replacement costs. 6 downlights cost about $130 more than 2 fluorescent tube. Replacement of a PLC costs about 5 times more than a tube. Replacement of a ballast costs about 20 times of a starter. looking at running costs only is not a good idea we shall see, it's all starting to take shape most of my hacking is done already Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
butterfingerzz 0 Report post Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) Yes, in fact i have already told him that unless he can lower the cost, if not i will exclude the work dur to budget constraint. I have already excluded all the carpentry works, except the kitchen cabinet. :-p and he says he got a shock Actually have you ever do a rough calculation on the electricity bills if you use the fluroscent tubes, hamburger lights or downlights? I did. E.g for living room: Switch on 2 x Hamburger light = 2x32W = 64W. Switch on for 5 hours daily cost about $2 plus a month. Switch on 6 x downlights (2 x 13W plc each) = 6x2x13= 156W. Switch on for 5 hours daily = $5 plus per month For that additional $2 plus per month, you get a modern looking living room, worth it? Unless your dressed up flourescent tube is really part of your house theme, then it is another story la :-) i rather have cheap and modern do note your initial costs and replacement costs. 6 downlights cost about $130 more than 2 fluorescent tube. Replacement of a PLC costs about 5 times more than a tube. Replacement of a ballast costs about 20 times of a starter. looking at running costs only is not a good idea we shall see, it's all starting to take shape most of my hacking is done already I am honestly super impressed with u guys leh.. i hv never tot of calculating the daily energy costs of different types of lights lor.. and neither did my hubby.. anyways, i hv i think 2-3 T5s at my cove for dining area, it seems quite bright to me leh and its yellow lighting and we have a large mirror opposite the cove.. maybe tt helps.. Edited December 14, 2009 by butterfingerzz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ossify 1 Report post Posted December 14, 2009 I am honestly super impressed with u guys leh.. i hv never tot of calculating the daily energy costs of different types of lights lor.. and neither did my hubby.. anyways, i hv i think 2-3 T5s at my cove for dining area, it seems quite bright to me leh and its yellow lighting and we have a large mirror opposite the cove.. maybe tt helps.. i am having 2 T8s for my dining area, no mirror. 2 T5s would take less energy than 2 T8s, but 3 T5s would use more energy than 2 T8s Also, initial costs of T5s are higher than T8s and subsequent replacement costs of tubes/ballast cost more for T5s than T8s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) i am having 2 T8s for my dining area, no mirror. 2 T5s would take less energy than 2 T8s, but 3 T5s would use more energy than 2 T8s Also, initial costs of T5s are higher than T8s and subsequent replacement costs of tubes/ballast cost more for T5s than T8s Frankly i really 五体头地。You survey and calculation even more extensive than me. I have yet to calculate the energy consumption of the whole house. Thanks for reminding me on the replacement cost... but i am very much an aesthetically inclined person... so.... i will try my best to close both eyes to the replacement cost of the downlights :-p By the way, T5 and T8 comes in how many watts? 13 and 18W also? Edited December 15, 2009 by gantan88 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 i rather have cheap and modern do note your initial costs and replacement costs. 6 downlights cost about $130 more than 2 fluorescent tube. Replacement of a PLC costs about 5 times more than a tube. Replacement of a ballast costs about 20 times of a starter. looking at running costs only is not a good idea we shall see, it's all starting to take shape most of my hacking is done already I guess i will try to use less downlights, less consumption and also longer lifespan I think a starter is less than $1, a ballast about $20, and i dun change it everyday.... so.... What a way to convince myself :-p Post more pics on yr blog ok! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 I am honestly super impressed with u guys leh.. i hv never tot of calculating the daily energy costs of different types of lights lor.. and neither did my hubby.. anyways, i hv i think 2-3 T5s at my cove for dining area, it seems quite bright to me leh and its yellow lighting and we have a large mirror opposite the cove.. maybe tt helps.. I think it is useful to try to calculate the power consumption for whole house to avoid bill shock and of the first month after you move in haha.... Asked my I.D to incorporate mirrors with lighting into the design to achieve more efficient energy consumption but he keeps no need... Anyway my clove light at the dining area is perpendicular to the wall (which i can place mirrors), so i dunno if this orientation can reflect light also.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
charemme 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 So i think mine much more expensive? If i plaster the living room also, i think almost $2k.... i think too exp too.... my 5rm, i was quoted abt 1800 like tat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
butterfingerzz 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 I think it is useful to try to calculate the power consumption for whole house to avoid bill shock and of the first month after you move in haha.... Asked my I.D to incorporate mirrors with lighting into the design to achieve more efficient energy consumption but he keeps no need... Anyway my clove light at the dining area is perpendicular to the wall (which i can place mirrors), so i dunno if this orientation can reflect light also.... think i will surely get shock from my PUB bill! hv quite a number of downlights.. ya my cove lights also perpendicular to wall with mirror.. think can reflect light, cos mine dining area seems quite bright leh.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ossify 1 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 Frankly i really 五体头地。You survey and calculation even more extensive than me. I have yet to calculate the energy consumption of the whole house. Thanks for reminding me on the replacement cost... but i am very much an aesthetically inclined person... so.... i will try my best to close both eyes to the replacement cost of the downlights :-p By the way, T5 and T8 comes in how many watts? 13 and 18W also? even if you close both eyes on replacement cost, make sure that it can be DIY. otherwise if you call someone to do for you, have to pay even more. there are some downlights that you can replace by yourself. i remember reading about it, but never note down because i don't want to have downlights. something about being able to rotate 45 degrees. About T5 and T8, I recommend you to read this, rather outdated but gives good basic info. generally 4ft T5 28W, 4ft T8 32W. there are cheaper variants of T5 from china (doesn't last but contractor will usually give this for maximum profit) and expensive variants, like HO, Watt-miser, HE, etc. I guess i will try to use less downlights, less consumption and also longer lifespan I think a starter is less than $1, a ballast about $20, and i dun change it everyday.... so.... What a way to convince myself :-p Post more pics on yr blog ok! if you're not intending to use it, why pay to install so many things that are used minimally should get the cheapest. things used often should get the best quality. eg. good drawer sliding mechanisms, very impt. i am posting daily pics on my blog today day 2 of hacking. I think it is useful to try to calculate the power consumption for whole house to avoid bill shock and of the first month after you move in haha.... Asked my I.D to incorporate mirrors with lighting into the design to achieve more efficient energy consumption but he keeps no need... Anyway my clove light at the dining area is perpendicular to the wall (which i can place mirrors), so i dunno if this orientation can reflect light also.... there are luminaires that have mirrors incorporated. these cost more than normal holders. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 i think too exp too.... my 5rm, i was quoted abt 1800 like tat Ok... i have clarified with my Contractor and this is what he told me: Normal Situation: where people do wall tiles for kitchen: "Whole house" plastering (actually is exclude kitchen walls because got tiles) - $1,300 to $2,000 for 3/4/5 rooms. For this price range, it excludes cornering or capping (i dunno what this is seriously). When people do not do tiles for kitchen walls, they will do plastering, and plastering for kitchen is the most expensive because they use both cement and plastering compound. Kitchen alone already ~ $600. Plus living room room and 2 bedrooms (all come with cornering /cappings) total is $1600. So a simple breakdown of the cost will be: Kitchen ~$600 Master bedroom ~ $500 Bedroom 2 ~ $500 Living room haven't include yet. Wah! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 think i will surely get shock from my PUB bill! hv quite a number of downlights.. ya my cove lights also perpendicular to wall with mirror.. think can reflect light, cos mine dining area seems quite bright leh.. Buttergingerzz, is there any pic to show your dining area? Thought the ideal positioning of the light and mirror is opposite each other.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alamak 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 Ok... i have clarified with my Contractor and this is what he told me: Normal Situation: where people do wall tiles for kitchen: "Whole house" plastering (actually is exclude kitchen walls because got tiles) - $1,300 to $2,000 for 3/4/5 rooms. For this price range, it excludes cornering or capping (i dunno what this is seriously). When people do not do tiles for kitchen walls, they will do plastering, and plastering for kitchen is the most expensive because they use both cement and plastering compound. Kitchen alone already ~ $600. Plus living room room and 2 bedrooms (all come with cornering /cappings) total is $1600. So a simple breakdown of the cost will be: Kitchen ~$600 Master bedroom ~ $500 Bedroom 2 ~ $500 Living room haven't include yet. Wah! every one will have their own reasons to justify their price, be it the truth or just to smoke us. ultimately it's up to us whether we want to go ahead or find someone else to do it. there's pros and cons for either choice you make. so just see which choice we prefer and just do it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gantan88 0 Report post Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) even if you close both eyes on replacement cost, make sure that it can be DIY. otherwise if you call someone to do for you, have to pay even more. there are some downlights that you can replace by yourself. i remember reading about it, but never note down because i don't want to have downlights. something about being able to rotate 45 degrees. After seeing what you wrote, i got the urge to tell my contractors to remove all downlights and revert back to using hamburger light. But aesthetically it is nicer with downlight lo :-p About T5 and T8, I recommend you to read this, rather outdated but gives good basic info. Thanks man. generally 4ft T5 28W, 4ft T8 32W. there are cheaper variants of T5 from china (doesn't last but contractor will usually give this for maximum profit) and expensive variants, like HO, Watt-miser, HE, etc. if you're not intending to use it, why pay to install so many things that are used minimally should get the cheapest. things used often should get the best quality. eg. good drawer sliding mechanisms, very impt. i am posting daily pics on my blog today day 2 of hacking. I thinking i need to drill my Contractor further and get him to feed more info on lighting. Seriously they are not too forthcoming... I am still thinking whether to use Blum for my Kitchen cabinet... Blum can be installed seperately after all carpentry works are done right? there are luminaires that have mirrors incorporated. these cost more than normal holders. The tubes will be siting in the cloves, are the mirrors useful? Unless the mirrors are on the ceiling.... Edited December 15, 2009 by gantan88 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
