SKYJUICE123 0 Report post Posted November 24, 2013 (edited) Was thinking about changing squatting to seating toilets. What do they do exactly? Do they hack out the squatting toilet pan or do they just left the pan alone and install the 100mm PVC pipe then seal and cover up the whole squatting pan with white plaster and sand mix? Can see that the base of sitting toilet can just cover the whole of the squatting pan, there is no need to re-tile the floor if there is no hacking involve.. is that correct? Edited November 24, 2013 by SKYJUICE123 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SKYJUICE123 0 Report post Posted November 25, 2013 Contractor just email saying that hacking is necessary to remove the pan and connect the pipe. This may be the standard way. the quote for workmanship is around $400/= . I see no reason the system will not work If the pipe can be inserted and seal up silicone glue then whole squatting pan filled up with lightweight plaster mix. it will be like having to introduce another S pipe. Since the sitting pan S pipe is higher than squatting pan, the water resistance of the additional squatting pan S pipe should not be a problem. Remember someone did this kind of modification before. Any comment? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cookie 0 Report post Posted November 29, 2013 I used the contractor on the 1st post A-Class for my in-law house.Cost $850 including overlay tiles for whole toilet.I did not see what they do but the outcome was done very nicely.Tile for selection is nice too.My in-laws are satisfied.Btw, the uncle took 3 days to complete. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SKYJUICE123 0 Report post Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) Putting the sitting pan on top of the squatting pan with nice fitting, having the pan matching the edges should work as shown in the drawing.. I remembered someone converted it DIY.The only worry is that the squatting pan may crack with the additional weight of 40 kg of sitting pan but porcelains are tough. Its edges should be able to withstand although the pan and the bottom may not as they are not designed to have any weight on them; hence, the use of chopped foam or fiber mixed with white cement just to fill up the hole.I don't normally trust what Contractor said or quote. Have a toilet water leaked caused by a pipe concealed in the brick wall duct. The only access to the pipe is an access hole at the ceiling height. Visually can't see where the leak was. The Contractor quoted about $850 saying that he would have to hack open the wall along the pipe to find the leak and the hacked wall will have to be re-tiled. In doing so, the sitting pan would have to be changed as it will crack when removed. The total would come to about $1,100/= and the work would take about 4 days. I got hold of my tiny web cam camera, lowered it down into the duct and recorded a video and finally found the leaking area. Then I hacked a small hole of size 100x100 to repair the leaking pipe. The repair cost me less than $50/= and took me less than 2 days including buying the tools and the repair materials.. Edited December 1, 2013 by SKYJUICE123 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SKYJUICE123 0 Report post Posted December 1, 2013 (edited) The other problem I would have is that the centre of the new 100 mm PVC pipe would be around 300 mm (12") from the wall and the centre of the sitting toilet pipe outlet is 260mm (10"). Fortunately, I could get a 50mm (2") $10/= pan collar to match.. Edited December 1, 2013 by SKYJUICE123 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites