Possible To Diy Whole House Painting?

[bepgof 20]

lol..take sands from playground..i like that idea.

But on serious note, I am patching a small surface area, so the 3.5kg (come in packet form, so should be gross wt of 3.5 kg) should be adequate. The supplier did inform me no need to mix with sand in my instance. However, if there is exposed rebar, then you probably need to also prime the rebar before applying the quick dry cement to prevent further rusting.

I had used wall putty on the affected areas before but it flake off after a while. So I am trying this quick dry cement this time round. Wish me luck.

My next project is going to be even tougher, painting a wall that suffered water seepage before. Will be calling contractor in to use Infra red to check whether there is any more seepage before I carry out the plastering and painting.

Seriously, I took sand from playground! A bit only lah.

Infra red detects heat or temperature difference and show in screen with all those color "graphic". I doubt it will work on above, unless passing the pipe with hot water.

Edited August 8, 2010 by bepgof

[wd88 0]

Seriously, I took sand from playground! A bit only lah.

Infra red detects heat or temperature difference and show in screen with all those color "graphic". I doubt it will work on above, unless passing the pipe with hot water.

I will need to check with the waterproofing contractor next week on the actual testing method. They mention non-destructive testing so I am keen to know their tersting method.

[EL10 0]

Hello all,

Would like to get some advice from creative ppl here..

I want 1 of my wall in MBR to be in "stripes". But our contractor's painter has already painted 2nd coat of paint on it and says it's very difficult and not possible to stick masking tape and paint strips now if not the paint will come off. Is it true? If it is, where/how should i get wall paper/stickers to make stripes? Please help ~ Thanks!

[leechaorui 2]

Hello all,

Would like to get some advice from creative ppl here..

I want 1 of my wall in MBR to be in "stripes". But our contractor's painter has already painted 2nd coat of paint on it and says it's very difficult and not possible to stick masking tape and paint strips now if not the paint will come off. Is it true? If it is, where/how should i get wall paper/stickers to make stripes? Please help ~ Thanks!

You may want to check with your painter whether he could help you to scrap off the paint and redo. I find that when there are a few layers of paints on the wall, the new paint don't stick very well. Quite often, the recommendation is to scrap off the existing paint and then re-paint the wall. After you scrap off the paint, I don't see any problem using masking tape to help you get the "stripes" you want.

[EL10 0]

You may want to check with your painter whether he could help you to scrap off the paint and redo. I find that when there are a few layers of paints on the wall, the new paint don't stick very well. Quite often, the recommendation is to scrap off the existing paint and then re-paint the wall. After you scrap off the paint, I don't see any problem using masking tape to help you get the "stripes" you want.

Thanks for your advice..That's what my husband say too..maybe the painters find this troublesome that's y say not possible to us. Now still thinking and looking for alternatives to do a stripe walls..

[dean 5]

I will need to check with the waterproofing contractor next week on the actual testing method. They mention non-destructive testing so I am keen to know their tersting method.

can have address of the shop? the paint won't stick well to my wall.

[dean 5]

where to find the painter willing to scrap off the paint and plaster/cement wall and repaint the wall. There are 2 layers of paints on the wall and the new paint don't stick very well.

Edited August 15, 2010 by dean

[claymarble 0]

where to find the painter willing to scrap off the paint and plaster/cement wall and repaint the wall. There are 2 layers of paints on the wall and the new paint don't stick very well.

i'm also facing problems with old paint. think the previous job was not done properly. now i have to strip the old paint off bcoz parts of them are already not sticking to the concrete,big headache.... wonder how much it costs to strip and replaster

[RimBlock 0]

Doing the painting yourself is hard work but if you take some time, do your research and get the right tools, it can be very rewarding, money saving and get you a bit fitter all at the same time.

If you don't have smooth walls (i.e. textured effect like rock wall) but want smooth walls then you need to plaster the walls. My advice, if you need to plaster the whole set of walls and ceilings then get someone who knows what they are doing. Plastering is difficult unless you are experienced.

Next, check the walls for any holes, scrapes, dents, cracks and use something like spackle (vinyl filler) or get a caulk gun and tube of white filler. The tube goes in the gun which is just a metal frame for the tube with a trigger that moves a plunger at the end of the tube to squeeze out the filler. You need to cut the tip of the filler tube and would usually do this at an angle so the end is flat against the wall as you move it along at 45 degrees. You can usually use a wet finger or cloth to remove the excess filler from cracks. You may need more than one layer depending on the size of the crack or hole. Let the first layer dry completely before moving to the second.

Once the filling is completed and dried, sand down to make smooth with the wall. You can get sandpaper attached to foam blocks in places like home-fix which make this easier or get some sheets of sans paper and wrap one around a wooden block for a better grip. Choose file for a smooth finish but you may need a medium for the initial sanding depending on how good your filling was. Be prepared for lots of fine white dust from the sanding.

Ok, so all the sanding is done, time to wash the walls. Use a mild soap to help remove the grease etc that may have built up on the walls. Use a sponge or a floor sponge (mop with a sponge bottom rather than a cloth bottom) and rinse the dirty water in a second bucket so you are cleaning with water that is as clean as possible. If you have just finished sanding then let the dust settle for a bit first. Maybe start washing with the first room you sanded if you are doing multiple rooms.

Masking time. Get lots of masking tape. It is used to mask off areas you do not wish to paint on (door frames, windows, a wall with a different colour). You only need a strip of tape and do not need to mask the entire wall . Do not push too hard with the tape on the wall as when you remove the tape it may pull some paint off at the same time. Push just enough to get it to stick. Also it is better to use fresh masking tape rather than older tape you have been storing as the adhesive used on the tape seems to get stronger with age making it more likely to remove paint from whatever you stick it too.

So on to painting. It is a good idea to put on an oil based sealer for any areas you may get leaks from (toilet / kitchen ceilings and all ceilings if you are a top floor unit). This will cover any water stains that are there already and will help prevent any new ones. Once the sealer is dry (give it a good 4 hours) you can start with a bottom layer. If you are painting on non white walls then you may wish to use a white emulsion layer to give a neutral starting colour. If you do not do this then the colour you paint may be affected by the underlying colour (light blue turning out darker if painted on a black wall etc). If you already have white walls then go ahead with your colours.

For painting, always start top down, ceiling, walls, skirting and floor (as required). I prefer to start from close to the centre and work out towards the edges. If using a roller (most sensible choice) then fill the paint tray with a reasonable amount of paint (do not go over the edge of the flat part of the tray). Put the roller in the paint and then poll the roller on the flat part. This will push the paint in to the roller. Roll the roller in one direction on the flat part of the tray to make sure the whole roller is covered (back and forth rolling will miss some parts of the roller). You may need to dip in the paint and repeat the rolling two or three times to get the roller 'loaded' with paint the first time. The roller should look 'painted' evenly but not be dripping paint. I also roll the edges of the roller on the tray before painting as this is where some of the paint will be pushed to (the sides of the roller) and you may get drips.

So your roller is loaded with paint and you are ready to start on the ceiling. Either use a pole attached to the roller or a stop ladder correctly (safely) set-up and slowly start rolling. It is not a speed race and the faster you roll, the more paint you will spray (unless you have a roller with a spray shield). Use slow steady strokes. When the rolling starts to get patchy, go back to the first 'roll' you did and re roll a little to spread it our as the first roll after you get more paint will be thicker. So get paint on roller, roll over an area and then re roll to even it out. Once the rolling you are doing is not really making a difference, re-load the roller with paint.

Once the main area is done, you will need to use a brush for 'cutting in' (finishing the parts where the wall joins another coloured wall or door frame you have already masked off. Paint from the masked area to the centre of the wall and once you have done this for a few strokes, paint horizontally to smooth out the strokes. Cutting in is the more time consuming part if done right considering the area you are painting but this action will really show up if done badly.

Remember, water based paint can usually be wiped off with a damp cloth if caught before it is dry. If it dries then you may need a scraper to take it off. Keep a damp rag handy.

Goes without saying you should cover anything you don't want painted in paper or a painting cloth (floor, furniture, tv etc).

Make sure you wash your rollers / brushes thoroughly after painting. Wash through with clean water until the water coming out is clear. You will need to really squeeze the roller to get the paint out. If there is still some wet paint in the roller or brushes it can 'taint' the next colour or it will dry and make the roller hard and useless.

For opening paint tins, get a paint tin opener (home-fix do one very cheaply). It allows you to open the tins without damaging the lids so you can reseal them. Wipe the rim of the tin to remove excess paint before sealing the tin or the paint will make the lid stick and you may end up bending the tin lid trying to get it off again. If the tin lid does not seal fully the tin can rust (mine did) and the rust flakes will fall in to the paint making lumps. This is not so nice if you want to use the remaining paint for touch-up later.

Write down the paint codes and make and store for later reference. This will help if you need to get some more for touch ups or refresh later. Not that paint colour does change over time due to exposure to sunlight and the environment. This means that the colour you get using your paint colour code may be slightly different to the colour on your walls and can mean you have to repaint an entire section in order to touch up an area. I had an area above the master bedroom window which had spalling concrete. Town council came and patched it after treating the rebar and I went and go some more paint to over paint the patch. The paint was slightly different in colour so I had to paint the entire section above the window. Due to shadow and lighting differences in the room. once that section was painted, it was hard to tell the colour was different to other sections in the same colour (i.e. under the window).

Take some time, do some research and make some effort and the results you produce will generally be much better than the average house painters especially as you have pride in making your place look as good as possible whilst most painters are only doing it as a job.

Wah, lots of typing... lucky my boss is in meetings today

RB

[bepgof 20]

Doing the painting yourself is hard work but if you take some time, do your research and get the right tools, it can be very rewarding, money saving and get you a bit fitter all at the same time.

If you don't have smooth walls (i.e. textured effect like rock wall) but want smooth walls then you need to plaster the walls. My advice, if you need to plaster the whole set of walls and ceilings then get someone who knows what they are doing. Plastering is difficult unless you are experienced.

Next, check the walls for any holes, scrapes, dents, cracks and use something like spackle (vinyl filler) or get a caulk gun and tube of white filler. The tube goes in the gun which is just a metal frame for the tube with a trigger that moves a plunger at the end of the tube to squeeze out the filler. You need to cut the tip of the filler tube and would usually do this at an angle so the end is flat against the wall as you move it along at 45 degrees. You can usually use a wet finger or cloth to remove the excess filler from cracks. You may need more than one layer depending on the size of the crack or hole. Let the first layer dry completely before moving to the second.

Once the filling is completed and dried, sand down to make smooth with the wall. You can get sandpaper attached to foam blocks in places like home-fix which make this easier or get some sheets of sans paper and wrap one around a wooden block for a better grip. Choose file for a smooth finish but you may need a medium for the initial sanding depending on how good your filling was. Be prepared for lots of fine white dust from the sanding.

Ok, so all the sanding is done, time to wash the walls. Use a mild soap to help remove the grease etc that may have built up on the walls. Use a sponge or a floor sponge (mop with a sponge bottom rather than a cloth bottom) and rinse the dirty water in a second bucket so you are cleaning with water that is as clean as possible. If you have just finished sanding then let the dust settle for a bit first. Maybe start washing with the first room you sanded if you are doing multiple rooms.

Masking time. Get lots of masking tape. It is used to mask off areas you do not wish to paint on (door frames, windows, a wall with a different colour). You only need a strip of tape and do not need to mask the entire wall . Do not push too hard with the tape on the wall as when you remove the tape it may pull some paint off at the same time. Push just enough to get it to stick. Also it is better to use fresh masking tape rather than older tape you have been storing as the adhesive used on the tape seems to get stronger with age making it more likely to remove paint from whatever you stick it too.

So on to painting. It is a good idea to put on an oil based sealer for any areas you may get leaks from (toilet / kitchen ceilings and all ceilings if you are a top floor unit). This will cover any water stains that are there already and will help prevent any new ones. Once the sealer is dry (give it a good 4 hours) you can start with a bottom layer. If you are painting on non white walls then you may wish to use a white emulsion layer to give a neutral starting colour. If you do not do this then the colour you paint may be affected by the underlying colour (light blue turning out darker if painted on a black wall etc). If you already have white walls then go ahead with your colours.

For painting, always start top down, ceiling, walls, skirting and floor (as required). I prefer to start from close to the centre and work out towards the edges. If using a roller (most sensible choice) then fill the paint tray with a reasonable amount of paint (do not go over the edge of the flat part of the tray). Put the roller in the paint and then poll the roller on the flat part. This will push the paint in to the roller. Roll the roller in one direction on the flat part of the tray to make sure the whole roller is covered (back and forth rolling will miss some parts of the roller). You may need to dip in the paint and repeat the rolling two or three times to get the roller 'loaded' with paint the first time. The roller should look 'painted' evenly but not be dripping paint. I also roll the edges of the roller on the tray before painting as this is where some of the paint will be pushed to (the sides of the roller) and you may get drips.

So your roller is loaded with paint and you are ready to start on the ceiling. Either use a pole attached to the roller or a stop ladder correctly (safely) set-up and slowly start rolling. It is not a speed race and the faster you roll, the more paint you will spray (unless you have a roller with a spray shield). Use slow steady strokes. When the rolling starts to get patchy, go back to the first 'roll' you did and re roll a little to spread it our as the first roll after you get more paint will be thicker. So get paint on roller, roll over an area and then re roll to even it out. Once the rolling you are doing is not really making a difference, re-load the roller with paint.

Once the main area is done, you will need to use a brush for 'cutting in' (finishing the parts where the wall joins another coloured wall or door frame you have already masked off. Paint from the masked area to the centre of the wall and once you have done this for a few strokes, paint horizontally to smooth out the strokes. Cutting in is the more time consuming part if done right considering the area you are painting but this action will really show up if done badly.

Remember, water based paint can usually be wiped off with a damp cloth if caught before it is dry. If it dries then you may need a scraper to take it off. Keep a damp rag handy.

Goes without saying you should cover anything you don't want painted in paper or a painting cloth (floor, furniture, tv etc).

Make sure you wash your rollers / brushes thoroughly after painting. Wash through with clean water until the water coming out is clear. You will need to really squeeze the roller to get the paint out. If there is still some wet paint in the roller or brushes it can 'taint' the next colour or it will dry and make the roller hard and useless.

For opening paint tins, get a paint tin opener (home-fix do one very cheaply). It allows you to open the tins without damaging the lids so you can reseal them. Wipe the rim of the tin to remove excess paint before sealing the tin or the paint will make the lid stick and you may end up bending the tin lid trying to get it off again. If the tin lid does not seal fully the tin can rust (mine did) and the rust flakes will fall in to the paint making lumps. This is not so nice if you want to use the remaining paint for touch-up later.

Write down the paint codes and make and store for later reference. This will help if you need to get some more for touch ups or refresh later. Not that paint colour does change over time due to exposure to sunlight and the environment. This means that the colour you get using your paint colour code may be slightly different to the colour on your walls and can mean you have to repaint an entire section in order to touch up an area. I had an area above the master bedroom window which had spalling concrete. Town council came and patched it after treating the rebar and I went and go some more paint to over paint the patch. The paint was slightly different in colour so I had to paint the entire section above the window. Due to shadow and lighting differences in the room. once that section was painted, it was hard to tell the colour was different to other sections in the same colour (i.e. under the window).

Take some time, do some research and make some effort and the results you produce will generally be much better than the average house painters especially as you have pride in making your place look as good as possible whilst most painters are only doing it as a job.

Wah, lots of typing... lucky my boss is in meetings today

RB

Wow, can write a thesis on house painting and earn a doctorate already. Read till my eye balls pop out.

Edited August 24, 2010 by bepgof

[RimBlock 0]

Wow, can write a thesis on house painting and earn a doctorate already. Read till my eye balls pop out.

Always happy to accept , but this just for fairly simple painting. If you pay for a good painter, this is the minimum you should expect.

RB

[wd88 0]

i'm also facing problems with old paint. think the previous job was not done properly. now i have to strip the old paint off bcoz parts of them are already not sticking to the concrete,big headache.... wonder how much it costs to strip and replaster

i just strip the paint and plaster with another friend at my new place as the wall was suffering from water seepage previously. After the scraping, my hands suffered numbness for a hour or so. I had applied waterproofing and now waiting for the waterproofing to cure and the next step is to plaster the wall myself with another friend's help. One bucket of plaster is $22 (around the size of 20 litre matex paint) when I asked the paint shop last weekend.

It is actually quite interesting to pick up this knowledge and skill yourself if you do not mind the dirty job and it takes time. But the main plus point for me is I can save at least 2000 dollars and use it on other essential areas.

Edited August 25, 2010 by wd88

[leechaorui 2]

Thanks for your advice..That's what my husband say too..maybe the painters find this troublesome that's y say not possible to us. Now still thinking and looking for alternatives to do a stripe walls..

Maybe money will do the job of convincing them. Afterall, the painters need to be paid an additional wage because scrapping off paint takes quite substantial time and effort too.

cheers!

[dean 5]

i just strip the paint and plaster with another friend at my new place as the wall was suffering from water seepage previously. After the scraping, my hands suffered numbness for a hour or so. I had applied waterproofing and now waiting for the waterproofing to cure and the next step is to plaster the wall myself with another friend's help. One bucket of plaster is $22 (around the size of 20 litre matex paint) when I asked the paint shop last weekend.

It is actually quite interesting to pick up this knowledge and skill yourself if you do not mind the dirty job and it takes time. But the main plus point for me is I can save at least 2000 dollars and use it on other essential areas.

woah, your friend so good to help u DIY. can teach...

[Lee99 0]

Diy painting is quite tough especially for amateurs like us, i tried once... the result was not desirable and the time consumed you will never wana think of it... i spent nearly a month just for my living room...From then on, i swear that i'll never wana go through all that again. For years i've been using House painting and the quality of work done is excellent... Took about a week to paint my whole house.