keltong 4 Report post Posted March 27, 2008 Hi,I notice some light switch got 3 red wires. I change the switch and manged to get the lights working but just want to confirm as the old switch do not show any signs.The lights switch got '1' and 'L', and the wires, 2 of them is connected together. So the 1 wire goes to which connection and the 2 wires together goes to which connection?Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brainstorm 0 Report post Posted March 27, 2008 Hi,I notice some light switch got 3 red wires. I change the switch and manged to get the lights working but just want to confirm as the old switch do not show any signs.The lights switch got '1' and 'L', and the wires, 2 of them is connected together. So the 1 wire goes to which connection and the 2 wires together goes to which connection?Thanks.The two wires connected togehter are the power supply "live", be careful while handling them. There are two wires because it need to parallel out the power supply to another light within its group under the same breaker switch. The last light in the group will only have one such wire. Now the other one wire is going to the light. So once you switch to "on" the supply will flow to the light. The "Neutral" and "Earth" wire of the lights are internally connected togehter, so you won't see these wires in the light switch. Usually people will connect the 2 wires to the common ponit on the switch, the one wire will go to the "1" position. (for those switch with 2 way, for dual switching, the position "2" will have connecters too. But mostly we will see 1 way switch, and position "2" is left empty.)Hope this helps. Cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keltong 4 Report post Posted March 27, 2008 The two wires connected togehter are the power supply "live", be careful while handling them. There are two wires because it need to parallel out the power supply to another light within its group under the same breaker switch. The last light in the group will only have one such wire. Now the other one wire is going to the light. So once you switch to "on" the supply will flow to the light. The "Neutral" and "Earth" wire of the lights are internally connected togehter, so you won't see these wires in the light switch. Usually people will connect the 2 wires to the common ponit on the switch, the one wire will go to the "1" position. (for those switch with 2 way, for dual switching, the position "2" will have connecters too. But mostly we will see 1 way switch, and position "2" is left empty.)Hope this helps. Cheers.Ok ok...thanks...so 1 wire goes to the '1' position and the 2 live wires go to the 'L' position. Heng...hahaha....Yes, I usually off the breaker before I change. Just to play safe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyersummer 1 Report post Posted March 31, 2008 Hi Keltong, I bought the legrand switches, scv point, heater switch and doorbell from choo chiang. I'm replacing all the existing HDB switches.By the way, any idea Choo Chiang sell timer switch for bathroom ventilation fan? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keltong 4 Report post Posted March 31, 2008 Hi Keltong, I bought the legrand switches, scv point, heater switch and doorbell from choo chiang. I'm replacing all the existing HDB switches.By the way, any idea Choo Chiang sell timer switch for bathroom ventilation fan? Timer switch? Never ask before leh. Maybe when I go there again I ask them, just realise I counted wrongly, short of 2x 1-gang switch (forgot the toilets!).You replacing yourself? The stupid heater switch when I try to change, I follow, N1 (old ABB)-1, L1-L1, N2-2, L2-L2, G-G, than on it, than *pop*. Even the outside main door circuit breaker trip, think muz be big time problem. Wonder if the original wiring got problem. Anyone know how to test?Was thinking of switching the 1s and 2s (no other way liao right) but haven't got the heart to try yet. Still recovering from the previous shock...haha...thank God for circuit breakers.Can show me the pix of the SCV point? Did you buy the power socket also? How much is the SCV point? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyersummer 1 Report post Posted March 31, 2008 you seem like a DIY guy anyway, I just called legrand Singapore on the timer switch. They do carry but only white colour.Will be going to Choo Chiang to buy it. But funny leh, all switches silver-grey colour and timer is white. Think will install beside the bathroom tiles instead of outside. colour don't match. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keltong 4 Report post Posted March 31, 2008 No choice, this reno I am on the tightest budget yet it's a bigger house. Hmm...white timer switch...can consider...kekeke... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
missyling 0 Report post Posted March 31, 2008 No choice, this reno I am on the tightest budget yet it's a bigger house. Hmm...white timer switch...can consider...kekeke...Hi Paiseh, I'm abit Sua ku. May i know what timer switch are you guys talking abt? What is the purpose of this timer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flyersummer 1 Report post Posted March 31, 2008 Legrand Singapopre I called today, they are selling timer switches needed for bathroom ventilation fan and water stroage heater.It comes in white colour only. Sell at Legrand distributor.Another one is by esaver (see below),It is the Energy Saver, a 20-mins timer that can be installed with together with the lights and the bathroom ventilation fan.This product can be brought from Carrefour, Mustafa and Home-Fix. It is priced at S$18.80. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hobbes187 0 Report post Posted April 14, 2008 How much is the Legrand timer switch? Is it the digital one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keltong 4 Report post Posted April 15, 2008 I was there recently, they don't have stock for it (no demand) so it's on order basis. Didn't ask for the price since I don't intend to get it. It is digital. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pitchblk111 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2010 Timer switch? Never ask before leh. Maybe when I go there again I ask them, just realise I counted wrongly, short of 2x 1-gang switch (forgot the toilets!). You replacing yourself? The stupid heater switch when I try to change, I follow, N1 (old ABB)-1, L1-L1, N2-2, L2-L2, G-G, than on it, than *pop*. Even the outside main door circuit breaker trip, think muz be big time problem. Wonder if the original wiring got problem. Anyone know how to test? Was thinking of switching the 1s and 2s (no other way liao right) but haven't got the heart to try yet. Still recovering from the previous shock...haha...thank God for circuit breakers. Can show me the pix of the SCV point? Did you buy the power socket also? How much is the SCV point? Hi Keltong, I m facing the same problem as you at the moment. Pls share wif me wat u did to make the heater switch work in the end? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Astarz 10 Report post Posted January 12, 2010 do a search on youtube, they will teach u step by step, very useful. do it now!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lawry 3 Report post Posted May 27, 2012 This is weary, but my light switch is spoilt, the middle flick of the 3gang switch came off..Any additional advice for a DIY switch change. After reading many threads... I gathered.1. Off the breaker section that's supplying electricity to the switch. 2. Switch on/off to confirm.3. Remove current frame and face plate (unscrew) 2 screws.4. Test wires for current with a test pen to confirm there's no electricity. 5. Label wires with masking tape (most important)6. Unscrew wires from old faceplate.7. Buy similar brand faceplate so that the back connections are same or similar (tip, go to Choo Chiang for contractor price)8. Screw and tighten all wires onto new faceplate.(Before you attach the faceplate to the box)9. Switch on circuit breaker to confirm wiring is connected right.10. On/off switch to test lights.11. Switch off circuit breaker again (optional but recommended)12. Screw faceplate back onto the box.13. Replace frame.Did I miss out anything important that might result in me getting a perm? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taichipanda 3 Report post Posted May 28, 2012 This is weary, but my light switch is spoilt, the middle flick of the 3gang switch came off..Any additional advice for a DIY switch change. After reading many threads... I gathered.1. Off the breaker section that's supplying electricity to the switch. 2. Switch on/off to confirm.3. Remove current frame and face plate (unscrew) 2 screws.4. Test wires for current with a test pen to confirm there's no electricity. 5. Label wires with masking tape (most important)6. Unscrew wires from old faceplate.7. Buy similar brand faceplate so that the back connections are same or similar (tip, go to Choo Chiang for contractor price)8. Screw and tighten all wires onto new faceplate.(Before you attach the faceplate to the box)9. Switch on circuit breaker to confirm wiring is connected right.10. On/off switch to test lights.11. Switch off circuit breaker again (optional but recommended)12. Screw faceplate back onto the box.13. Replace frame.Did I miss out anything important that might result in me getting a perm? Even after you switch OFF the main breaker, best test the naked wires with a test pen before touching it with your bare hand. If in doubt, get an electrician to change and pay him, dont wish your wife to loss a husband and dont wish your kids to loss a father. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites