Lightings, Kitchen / Closet Specialist And Others....

[123abc 0]

Okay, first of all, a big thank-you to those who have asked questions. I have sent the replies to your private mailbox.

I still need some time to compile the Part 6 : Carpentry Portion because it is the largest Reno work on my list. I have just completed the technical drawing stage with the ID. Please continue to have patience with me.

In the meantime, let me share a bit on my WINDOW DRESSING experience.

Part 7: Window Dressing - Curtains or Roller Blinds or just plain cloth?

Although at this stage of your renovation, you may be tempted to rush into a fast and easy decision, simply to get the job done — don’t.


Your choice of window dressing has a huge impact on the overall look and feel of a room. The right choice can enhance a design and add to the style of a space. The wrong choice can undo all your hard work.



And it’s not just aesthetics that your choice of window dressing can affect. Security, ventilation, noise reduction and internal air temperature are all factors that will be affected when you decide how to dress your windows. So before you make any decisions, it’s important to be well informed.



Factors to consider


1. Purpose


Consider what the actual purpose of the window dressing is to be.

Is it to block out light? To provide privacy? To enhance a mood or feel of a space?

Knowing what function you need the dressing to perform is essential to deciding which dressing to choose. A sheer curtain or organza will enhance the mood of a romantic-styled bedroom but it will hardly offer privacy, while timber shutters may provide ample privacy but will not enhance the look of a space filled with contemporary-style furniture.



2. Style


Ensure your choice is in keeping with the room’s style. Look at the coloring and design choices made in relation to the walls, flooring and furniture in the room and make your dressing choice accordingly. Decide on colors that will either contrast with or complement the color scheme, not clash with it.
 If your room already has dark wood timber flooring, a dark window dressing will make the room even smaller.


3. Outdoor view


Remember to consider the view from the outside when choosing your dressings. Although you may wish to use different styles of dressings in different rooms of the home, consider the impact this will have on the view from the outside. If your room faces only HDB flats, it is better to use completely block-out blinds.
But you can choose those black out blinds with nicer patterns and turn your window into a conversational piece.

4. Placement


Look at where the windows are situated. If they face the street, privacy and security must be considered. If they face a garden or private area, privacy may not be so important. Look also at which direction the window faces and when the room is generally occupied. Is it a bedroom that gets lots of sun in the morning, or a living area with limited natural light in the afternoon? A clever choice in window dressings can counteract a room’s shortcomings or enhance its natural features.
Do not use curtains just because your ID asked you to !
Usually, if your room is sun-facing, a curtain means you have to have day and night tracks (extra costs)

5. Use


Who is going to use these rooms and operate the window? Will it be adults (who are capable of dealing with small cords and ties) or children, who will need a simpler and safer alternative. Will there be grubby little hands marking your stunning white curtains? These factors need to be considered in order to avoid making an unrealistic choice or one that’s impossible to maintain. If you have pets, avoid tassel unless you do not mind them salivating all over them. 



6. Cost


The cost of window dressings varies enormously, so it’s essential to know all your options and shop around before making any final decision. And remember, the cheaper alternatives may not always work out cheaper in the long run. It’s better to spend a little extra on the product that’s right for you than to choose an inferior option that will hinder your enjoyment of the space. Alternatively, keep in mind that sometimes a simple — and cost-effective — solution is the best. It’s a good idea to be aware of prices but not dictated by them.



I have been to shops in Toa Payoh, IMM, Tanjong Katong…. In my next part, I will let you know which ones are good.

7. Window dressing choices


a. Timber Venetians
- Extremely popular with homeowners today, timber venetians are both practical and stylish. Offering great air and light flow, timber venetians help to regulate the temperature of a room as well as harness natural light. Generally made from western red cedar or Tasmanian oak, timber venetians can be oiled or lacquered and can be made to fit virtually any sized window.

Disadvantage - Special treatments may need to be applied if they are to be used in a high-humidity area or region like Singapore! 


b. Faux-timber or synthetic blinds are also available for a fraction of the cost of that of the real timber venetians. These can be used if your budget is tight or if high humidity is a problem.

Disadvantage : Like timber Venetians, be prepared to dust, dust dust!



c. Pleated blinds
- Pleated blinds are fabric blinds that are generally used in conjunction with curtains. These blinds are good for living areas such as lounge rooms or bedrooms, as the blinds can be custom made to suit the decor. The blinds are not as versatile as Venetians or shutters as they offer only two usage options: up or down. However, they do offer reasonable insulation and privacy. As long as the room is well ventilated and kept clean, these blinds are relatively easy to maintain but you must consider fading when choosing a fabric.



d. Roller blinds


The simple things in life are often the best, and nowhere is this clearer than with roller blinds. The design of the roller blind hasn’t really changed since its beginning — it’s still fabric wrapped around a roller — but new technology has resulted in a wider choice of fabrics and materials and increased sophistication of the roller mechanisms (which range from the standard roller to a mechanized, remote-controlled type). Roller blinds can be made to fit almost any size window and can be custom made in a fabric to suit virtually any decor. Roller blinds are also available in new UV-resistant materials. Roller blinds are relatively easy to maintain but offer little in the way of insulation.



(And this is what I installed. I will let you know in 2 weeks’ time how the workmanship is).

e. Vertical blinds


Vertical blinds are suitable for both windows and sliding doors. They offer good light and airflow and are available in a variety of sizes. Vertical blinds provide privacy but limited insulation. As with fabric blinds, vertical blinds are available in a huge range of colors, patterns and textures.

Disadvantage : Improved technology has brought vertical blinds a long way from the days where they became a tangled mess at the touch of a hand, though they do still tend to sway when opened or closed.



f. Honeycomb blinds


Honeycomb blinds are a modern variation on Venetian blinds. The double-cell — or honeycomb — effect offers superior insulation and can block out 99 per cent of the sun’s UV rays (depending on fabric choice). Honeycomb blinds are available in a huge range of colors and are considered an energy-efficient choice in window coverings as the insulating qualities can reduce heating and cooling costs.



g. Curtains


The variety of curtains available is really as wide as your imagination will allow. This is perhaps the most versatile option for window coverings as — depending on your chosen style or fabric — they can be custom made to suit any room. Fabric choice will also dictate the amount of insulation, privacy and airflow the curtain offers: a heavy drape will provide superior privacy and insulation, while a sheer fabric will allow airflow and natural light into a room. Consideration must be given to fading and curtains need regular maintenance to stay looking fresh.

PS: Those allergic to dust, should avoid curtains. I am allergic to dusting aka housework. Hyak hyak hyak ....

My tips/learning;-

1. Before choosing any window dressing, look at the style and shape of a particular window in the room, and consider all decorative options. Take into account the practical functions that dressings will serve, such as increasing privacy, keeping out the noise, or blocking light.

2. Window types and sizes vary considerably. Adapt your window dressings accordingly. Do not just use blinds just because you like them. Sometimes, a curtains can hide the shortcomings that you want to disguise better. I always take a picture of the window to show the supplier and hear their views.

3. Choose simple, inexpensive hanging systems whenever you can, especially if your window dressings are purely decorative. You may need to invest in more costly hanging systems if you decide to hang curtains made of heavyweight material for warmth, for example. For roller blinds, do not compromise and buy those cheapo ones from Korea, China or Malaysia… I chose to invest in a Japan-made type for less headaches in the future.

4. Calculate your budget. If you decide to try to follow a regional or period theme, research appropriate materials, designs, and colors in order to create a complete, authentic look. I rather you do not buy yet, than to compromise and buy something too cheap. Take your time and save the money. You will thank me for it in future.

5. Keeping Fabrics Plain: Use plain materials to make color scheming easier. Window dressings will thus play a complementary decorative role together with your sofa color or bedspread.

6. Making a Statement
 - Drawing attention if you want a window dressing to be a focal point, choose bold or contrasting colors and patterns to draw the eye.

7. Disguising window shape - Curtains hung outside a recess will disguise the shape of a window, especially if tied back from a closed position. Use a shaped valance to disguise the squareness of a window.

8. Emphasizing window shape Hang a blind inside a window recess to emphasize the shape of the window. A patterned blind will draw attention to clear lines and square angles, and help to make the window a features

9. Being precise -- Not all floors, windows, and ceilings are absolutely "square", so take at least three width and length measurements.

10. Allowing for pattern repeats; centralize large patterns for balance.

That is all for now.... Pls wait for my next post.

In the meantime.... hang loose and enjoy your life ~~~

End of Part 7

Edited April 14, 2008 by 123abc

[ogre 0]

hi 123abc,

seems like you did all the reno without using any ID? so you co-ordinate using contractor? i'm deciding if i should engage any ID. no offends, but like you mentioned, I feels that most IDs are not true IDs. they mainly copy ideas here and there. in fact some are even worst, they just design as per what I asked for. what's the differences between contractors and IDs then.

Therefore I'm thinking maybe I can save quite a bit by not engaging IDs. However I am wondering if I engage my own contractors, any idea who do I go for to hack away my existing flooring and kitchen cabinets? As for the cleaning up or the hacking and HDB permits, any advise how to go ahead and do it?

[lundun1968 0]

hi 123abc,

seems like you did all the reno without using any ID? so you co-ordinate using contractor? i'm deciding if i should engage any ID. no offends, but like you mentioned, I feels that most IDs are not true IDs. they mainly copy ideas here and there. in fact some are even worst, they just design as per what I asked for. what's the differences between contractors and IDs then.

Therefore I'm thinking maybe I can save quite a bit by not engaging IDs. However I am wondering if I engage my own contractors, any idea who do I go for to hack away my existing flooring and kitchen cabinets? As for the cleaning up or the hacking and HDB permits, any advise how to go ahead and do it?

I got the same idea too! Anybody know how?

[123abc 0]

Hmmm....... a few of you also PM me on this too. So, I shall post the reply online for all to consider. I have found this link to be very useful.

HOW TO APPLY FOR RENO PERMIT ?

http://www.bca.gov.sg/housing/sp/renovatin..._EnageContr.htm

Yes, I did not engage an ID to design my unit.

I was thinking .....if I cant afford the real IDs, I might as well work directly with the suppliers, sharing with them my design ideas, my living style and my daily needs.

If they have worked with good IDs before, they will know how to translate my ideas into tangible stuff, borrowing from their past experiences. More work on my part -- I need to be very patient and clear in conveying my ideas.

But, if you want to "cheat" a little, you can employ a general contractor (but make sure he is RADAC- approved) for stuff like hacking your walls & he can apply the permit for you too. Reno permit is free, if I recalled correctly. Most Contractors are Ah-Bengs -- sorry, all contractor uncles --- so you must go down to their level. Keep your Ang-Mo English at home, okay ?

REMEMBER : ID or no ID, in the eyes of law, you, the owner are responsible for the renovation. Any damages, people will come after you, not your ID, not your contractor.

Hacking is EXPENSIVE. On average, hacking of a wall is about S$300. He might tell you that you need to pay another S$500 to take away the debris. That is BULLSHXT! Haulage and debris removal services are provided by Town Council and it costs only S$263.55.

You MUST engage a HDB licenced contractor to do your work. If he cannot show you his licence, DO NOT HIRE HIM. Warning : You can only do noisy work between 8 am to 6 pm, and you must finish the hacking work within 3 days.

Read the above link. There are a lot of useful information there.

Okay, that is all.

[donut88 1]

hi 123abc,

seems like you did all the reno without using any ID? so you co-ordinate using contractor? i'm deciding if i should engage any ID. no offends, but like you mentioned, I feels that most IDs are not true IDs. they mainly copy ideas here and there. in fact some are even worst, they just design as per what I asked for. what's the differences between contractors and IDs then.

Therefore I'm thinking maybe I can save quite a bit by not engaging IDs. However I am wondering if I engage my own contractors, any idea who do I go for to hack away my existing flooring and kitchen cabinets? As for the cleaning up or the hacking and HDB permits, any advise how to go ahead and do it?

my advise to you is to go for contractor if you have your own home concept in mind.....

contractor can all the same things as what IDs can do....

last time, there were no such thing as IDs.... all are contractors.... how do they do all the house renovations?

IMHO, IDs are just a fancy name....... if you ask for more technical explanations, u dun get the full answers.

Contractors usually can tell u the technical parts.

what i notice in most IDs is that all the homes that they do, the homes all end up looking alike.... why? because the ID will always want to follow his own idea/concept.

so, imagine, you and your neighbor's home done by the same ID. I can bet you that both homes will look alike in concept or colours!

you want that?

and another thing, those so-called 3D designs produced by IDs, what's the use of them actually? just to see the colours or the concepts?

you dun need to see 3D drawings just to see how the colours will look like. just use abit of imagination or creativity, you can already know how the home will look like.

Common sense in colour co-ordination can already tell you certain colours dun go together. Dun need 3D drawing to tell you that.

And we are paying $1000-$2000 for all these 3D drawings? These drawings are probably done by some NAFA fresh grad hired part-time by these IDs.

i know many home owners go for IDs coz they want 'face'..... if ppl ask them who do their reno. they can proudly mentioned the ID company.... so feel "shiok" lah.......

typical singaporean thinking........

but the home may end up looking really weird or bad quality workmanship or the owners kena 'chopped' by the ID by the prices.

another thing, most flats are only like 90sqm to 120sqm...... so small, want to use ID for what? how much can you do in a 90sqm space?

IDs will always tell you to hack this wall, hack that wall...... use some common sense, we all know can hack this and hack that.

[va|er1e 0]

Hello,

For painting, would you be able to advise if i should let my id do or should I ask my neighbour who is a painter to do?

Mine is a 5room flat @ 114sqm. id is charging me 1300 for whole house whilst my neighbour charging $70/day(he took 3-4 days for my current 4-room flat) and i will have to buy the paint myself.

[SmartFool 0]

Hi 123abc

thanks for all your insights

dont want an ID in the 1st place due to budget and my fiancee felt that we could do a better job

await your next post on renos and household accesories

[Angel81 1]

Thanks for all the useful tips! It's just what I need before getting started with my renovation!

Edited April 25, 2008 by Angel81

[wireless 0]

Yeah, both of them own the ID firms very highly recommended in this forum. So, beware! Not everyone that is highly recommended by others is trustworthy and genuine IDs. Talk to them yourself. Assess them as if you are meeting them for the 1st time. Do not let any feedback, including mine, affect your own assessment.

i fully agree on this!!! for those looking for ID pls do not let those forumers infuenue you. do you own assessment....

Please don be like me...

[ogre 0]

still looking for a cheap and reliable contractor (not ID).... any one tried using contractor before? care to share your experience and some contacts for good contractor?

[mud3210 0]

...Hacking is EXPENSIVE. On average, hacking of a wall is about S$300. He might tell you that you need to pay another S$500 to take away the debris. That is BULLSHXT! Haulage and debris removal services are provided by Town Council and it costs only S$263.55...

Hi,

just to double check: the S$300 u mentioned above is only for the PE endorsement right?

the hacking and smoothening of teh wall is another cost quote to us by our contractor, isnt it.?

i am going through the link u gave but cannot find the part that says we only have to pay S$263.55 to town council for the haaulage and debris removal....

Previously, one of the ID i approach (Ideal House) wanted to charge me ard $800 for haulage (becoz he says, i got knock down wall and do false ceiling and Lbox will cost more for haulage) and S$1000 for PE endorsement.

eventually, i didnt use them... if my next contractor is gg to charge me more than $263.55, hw would u suggest i go abt telling them it's too ex? do u think i can apply the debris removal on my own?

(and also for the apply to install window and grilles permit) TIA~

[maverick22 0]

d. Roller blinds


The simple things in life are often the best, and nowhere is this clearer than with roller blinds. The design of the roller blind hasn’t really changed since its beginning — it’s still fabric wrapped around a roller — but new technology has resulted in a wider choice of fabrics and materials and increased sophistication of the roller mechanisms (which range from the standard roller to a mechanized, remote-controlled type). Roller blinds can be made to fit almost any size window and can be custom made in a fabric to suit virtually any decor. Roller blinds are also available in new UV-resistant materials. Roller blinds are relatively easy to maintain but offer little in the way of insulation.



(And this is what I installed. I will let you know in 2 weeks’ time how the workmanship is).

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi!

I'm also keen on installing roller blinds (with blackouts) on all my bedrooms as they all come with bay windows. I think bay windows and curtains just don't match even though I've seen many photos of apartments of such configuration on the supplier's web site.

One problem is that I would need two roller blinds for each window as the shops tell me that most of the roller blinds have a maximum width of about 1.6m. So, that leaves a gap beween the roller blinds as the rollers need a gap between each other. Not sure if this is a problem...

Could you also tell us the shop that you bought the roller blinds from?

Thank you.

[123abc 0]

Good Morning, Singapore !

Follow Up on the Roller Blinds

I promised you a follow-up write up on my roller blinds installation. Here it is ~

The "measurer" came 5 mornings ago and took the measurements of all the windows that needed the roller blinds. (I have er...... 13 panels to install, 7 alone are in my MBR).

Tip 1: - Accurate Measurement

Close all the windows when the measurement is taken. That will be more accurate. And, sweetly ask him to take the measurements in your presence so that you may verify it against your own measurements.

If you have a window ledge or bay window and you plan to place fixed cushion on it, factor that in for the height of the blinds.

PS: Roller Blinds and bay windows match like Lamb and Mint sauce.

If you want a more cozy look, choose Fabric or Silk Roller Blinds or the Panel Blinds. If you want to make the rooms "taller", use shutters blinds. I agreed that curtains and window ledges are like durian and blue cheese -- must be eaten SEPARATELY.

Most windows have 2 panels with a divider in the middle that is about width 2.5 cm, that make allowances for 2 roller blinds to be placed, side by side. The question is : how wide is that divider in your window? You may have to get thiner roller blinds (read:the more expensive type) so that light penetration is minimized. Measure that divider and ask the shop to recommend more choices to you. Do not let his limited stock cramp your style.

Tip 2: - Minimize Gaps in L Section

The way to minimize the gap in between a L section is to reverse the roller blinds that are 90 degrees to each other --- think clockwise and anti-clockwise.

But I did not do that because it is UGLY.

I have chosen to have all the rolls in same direction so that it is more uniform. My reasoning is --- I only use the blinds in the morning so that the morning glare can be reduced and Mrs Piggy me can sleep a little more.

Most of the times, I usually lift the blinds to see the views outside. So, please choose what is important to your lifestyle (read my previous post on FUNCTION) and make the calculated decision, best suited for your needs, okay?

Tip 3: - To invest or not....

Silly me wanted no problem after installation so I bought a higher than necessary brand (Solaris - usually used in commercial buildings). I am told that the "WHITE color" blind materials for this brand does not discolor easily in the strong UV light and the pulley system inside is very very sturdy. I also plan to bring it along with me, when I move house again - that was why I invested in a better than average brand.

But you dont have to get so high end type, JUST do not buy the cheapest one either. On average, Roller Blinds ranges in prices from S$800 to S$3,000 for a HDB 5 room's windows.

I would say something around S$1,500 would be fair and reasonable and that should get you an average Japanese brand quality.

Tip 4: - Love your Country !

There are 2 types of Roller Blinds's mechanism -- I bought the type that raises like a flag because that kind of mechanism can last you decades. Motorized is nice to have but not necessarily for daily home use. Remember --- simple things always last longer than fanciful ones.

You can check out these shops in Tanjong Katong Complex -- Cheap and good is Jimmy & Average Joe is J&S. I bought mine from an IMM shop (no GST -- ) - H.M Deco. Call Peter : 98821497

Always pay for a good pulley system - Insist on "Made in Japan" or "Made in Germany/UK". Korean brands are coming up but I tried pulling Korean pulleys in these shops and I find that it is not as smooth as the Japanese pulleys when you pull UP. Letting down is the same but pulling up is a bit of struggle for the Koreans.

Tip 5: - Blind materials

There are many variations out there. Many colors to choose from, many degree of black out (Ranging from 50% to 100%), many texture (PVC, Silk, Fabric, Vinyl) and many patterns (plain to very arty-farty ones). When choosing the right type, remember the word, ACE.

A - Affordability : Latest trendy materials are often more expensive.

C - Coordination : Make sure it does not clash with the other styles in the room.

E - Effectiveness : Does it effectively achieve your function/purpose/goal/look ?

Okay, GOOD LUCK to all of you. Remember, Window Dressing is very important - it sets the mood for the room.

--- let me hear all of you say it, loud and clear ------

Yes, "Stay Happy and Enjoy Life".

Edited May 2, 2008 by 123abc

[123abc 0]

Hello all ~

This is an important clarification so I will post my reply online. The $300 - I mentioned earlier in the reno permit post is the average price for hacking a wall only.

For requirements for PE (Professional Engineer) endorsement, I am not so sure for HDB. It is better that you personally call the HBD officer to check. Your ID may not know everything so to play safe, they simply ask you to do a PE endorsement.

On the PE endorsement, so far, I have heard 2 variations of story --- I do not know which is true.

Variation 1 : from HDB officers who inspected friends' HDB

HDB does not need PE endorsement all the time;

They will let you know if they can permit the hacking or not, based on the structural soundness or blueprint that they already have. You can not hack/demolish load bearing walls even if you have a crazy PE endorsement.

My logic thinking is --- Since you are only allowed to hack/demolish non-load bearing reinforced concrete walls, their blueprint will tell them immediately which wall is non-load bearing or not. They do not need a PE to tell them that, right?

If they are not so sure any more if that wall is load bearing wall or not (perhaps due to the age of the HDB), then they will need a PE endorsement, and at that time, you will have to get it for them. That means you only have to get PE endorsement if they ask you to.

Variation 2 : from IDs

Yes, you need to apply for a permit from HDB (free) which must be endorsed by a Qualified Person (QP) or Professional Engineer (PE) (must pay) for any HDB renovation.

I know for sure that that is not true. Not all reno needs a permit from HDB.

For example, if you want to construct a cement mortar base that does not exceed 50mm, inclusive of finishes, for your kitchen cabinet, you do not need a permit.

So, do not believe everything your ID project co-ordinator tells you. Check it out yourself and save more money!

Caution :

When you buy your HDB flat, check for unauthorised works in the flat.

When you purchased the flat, you agreed to the “willing buyer willing seller" (caveat emptor) clause. In other words, you agreed to buy the flat in the condition that it is in. When there are unauthorised works, you may ask the seller to remove or rectify them first.

If Not, later, you are responsible to remove and / or rectify the unauthorised works when you sell the flat. You can not run after your seller for damages.

Okay, folks, that is all. Have a good weekend.

[simpleguy80 0]

Hi, so u have any good IDs or renovators that you can recommend? Thanks.