frederick_chia

Anyone knows where I can find a big variety of kitchen sinks, especially granite ones? I went Poh Joo & the Jalan Besar Hoe Kee, but limited design

So happy!!! Chosen all my tiles from Hafary....it's black, black & more black!!!!

You can always extend your short wall by making a fake wall extension. However, do take note that you cannot mount anything on this fake wall extension, but @ least you can mount your TV to the extreme of the current short wall & with the extension fake wall, it looks "centralised".

My ID will get for me @ a lower price than $4psf of course. I don't have the picture of it, but it's darker in color & has "cleaner" look than the old glossy black which has a dirty look.

Yup, Charcoal Black from Hafary. the latest black glossy tile ($4.00psf).

Yokoyoko, Correct mah...you see, your glass door is 3 feet by 7 feet, the dining wall is 8.5 feet by 8.5 feet. 8.5 feet = 3 feet + 3 feet + 2.5 feet for the width. As for the height of 8.5 feet, cannot go into lift. The lift height is slightly more than 7 feet only. As such, each piece if you go by the lift will be 3 feet by 3 feet or 3 feet by 4.5 feet. If go by stairs, it can be 3 feet by 8.5 feet.

Our dining wall is about 8.5 feet by 8.5 feet. If by stairs, it will have to be split into 3 pieces. If by lift, it will have to be split into 6 pieces. I chose going by stairs & I was quoted abt $1K for a black mirror from a mirror supplier by stairs.

Yes...it's just the design of wood grain but in aluminium frame....however, currently it is out of stock.

Actually, depending on the usage pattern of the heaters, a storage heater can have cost savings too. First of all, the price of 1 storage heater is cheaper than 2 instant heater. Secondly, if you bath very often using the heater everyday, say abt 4 times per pax or have a lot of people in your family, I believe the total power consumption should the same to heating up a 35L storage tank. As for the PD door or bi-fold door, there are wood grain designs, but of cos it's more expensive than the normal ones. I got quotation for wood grain designed PD door for abt $500 (but I think I will just go for a simple one).

Err....paiseh....pic a bit too small.....is that a Joven 25L or 35L?

If I only move in @ the end of the year after all my shiftings & reno finishes, I'll save this $30plus dollar too mah right? Paiseh about the confusion of the 2 models. The vertical model is the one with the temperature control. My wife sort of reminded me that if the horizontal model thermostat cannot be adjusted, then we can control the mix of hot & cold water with our tap. Nevertheless, please update me on Joven's reply. Thanks!

I'm more prone to getting the vertical model, but on the other hand, I'm thinking whether it is important to have the temperature control knob that is only available in horizontal models whereas the vertical model is preset to 65 degrees C.

Err, if I follow his method, my tempered glass shower screen is @ risk lor..... so I'm can only fix a bi-fold or PD door that is fixed @ the other side. How much did you pay for your PD door? I also thought of taking out our service yard door & cannibalised it to replace the MBR toilet door, but the labour cost is also about $200, in addition to the risk that the service yard bi-fold door gets damage in the process of tearing it out. If it's damage, then I still have to source for another door in additional to the labour of tearing the service yard door, ie, $200 + $280.

I'm still sourcing for cheaper options.....The door which Yontat quoted me is just the normal aluminium bi-fold door. If PD door is just a slight difference from this, then I might want to top up to fix a PD door instead to replace the current MBR toilet door.

Nope, Yontat said to come down just to fix 1 door, it's $280 cos they need to coer their trpt cost. But if I make 2 doors, it will be $200 each. All need not dismantle the original frame. My kitchen door is oready part of the package. DSA, Sorry, but I still don't really understand on what you say on the heaters....can explain in layman terms, ie, not so cheam... For your bi-fold door, can provide me with your contact? I cannot squeeze my ID anymore...he near to chopping me off as I manage to squeeze a Sys 3 aircon & all carpentry work to be fitted with slow motion hinges by topping just an additional of just $1K.

Hi, did you get the PD door or normal bi-fold? Did you also do it for the MBR toilet? How much? I got quote from Yontat for a normal bi-fold door @ $280. Also noticed that you have paid for your TV license. Think I will pay for mine only after my renovation and after I moved in.....hee hee

I just noticed the difference between the horizontal & vertical model..... Horizontal Model Thermostat - Surface mount thermostat pre-set at 65°C with safety cut-out at 95°C. Design Registered Mounting Ring Bracket - Allowing flexibility in mounting the heater in any horizontal positions. Epoxy powder coated with expansion bolts for safe mounting. Vertical Model Adjustable Thermostat - Allows temperature adjustment from ‘OFF’ to 70°C (Low-Medium-High) with safety cut-out at 95°C. Adjustable Thermostat Knob - Allows water temperature adjustment. Thermostat Tube - Controls water temperature. http://www.jovenelectric.com/catalogue/JVbro.pdf

All I know now for sure is that those horizontal version got more variety in volume.....wonder if anyone really knew the actual difference....sighed.....

Yup, I know. From what is given in the website, I see that there are no difference. However, just trying out my luck to see if anyone knows scientifically if the water in the heater boils faster over a longer surface (horizontal) or smaller surface (vertical). Or perhaps it doesn't really matter too....just that I'm thinking too much? However, based on design, I think the horizontal model "looks" smaller lor...hee hee!

The quotation I got from Kronotex directly for all the dry areas (living room, walkway , & bedrooms) is $2.5K, but it's in June. Not too sure prices went up or down. Kronotex is @ Bedok Reservoir. You might want to pop down to take a look. Isc90152, I noticed that you had bought a Joven 35 litres electric storage heater from Poh Joo. Did you buy the horizontal version or the vertical version? Also, any idea what's the difference between these 2 versions?

Frankly speaking, it's only after many rounds of discussion with IDs & contractors & weighing our pros & cons that me & my wife finally settled on our equation of "wants = needs". (Also take note that guys & gals have different tastes and preferences). We also found out that it's thru these discussion sessions that we can be our own ID, but just tat we do not have the time & effort to manage our "project". Do an extensive homework on all the stuffs that you need to buy (ranging from tiles pricing, electrical appliances, etc) in order not to be "koto-ed" by IDs or contractors. I must admit that it is a painful & tiring process...but it's also an enriching & enjoyable process too! In fact, you will be surprrised to learn that there are so many types of tiles in the market and also 12mm & 15mm solid plywood have their own characteristics & pricing (not to mention also price varies from color, grain, type of laminates, etc). However, not to scare you off now....but if you really really need any help or advice, you can always count on this forum to search for your answers. I'm also pretty sure that our LG folks will be helpful in clearing your doubts.

Raayn, Actually your budget of $10K is not very realistic unless you do a lot of DIY yourself as well as bare minimum renovation. From what I can see you did not even include other essentials like beddings, kitchen sink, cooker hood & hob, fridge, washing machine, aircon, wardrobe, lightings, re-wiring, sofa, tables, etc. Do take note that if you want to include these essential items, it will balloon up easily to @ least $15K to $20K. It all depends on what you want & what you need. From what I gather from my own research of IDs & quotations, the big ticket items for any renovation are the flooring & carpentry works. I also understand that you are still financing tour study loan. My preposition to you is to live with FOC HDB cement screeding for your house, get a decent wardrobe from the neighbourhood shop, get a decent quote for just the kitchen cabinets and electrical points cum lightings, buy 2nd hand for fridge, cooker hood & hob, washing machine, sofa, tables, etc, survive with just fan instead of aircon.....then it will fall below $10K. Mocca & Cold Storage is a good source to search for 2nd hand stuffs, especially from those expats that have to leave the country & they are "dumping" their stuffs cheaply. Most importantly, some of their items for sale are even cheaper than cash convertors but much newer. Then after both of you finish financing your study loan, you can give new live to your house by doing a major renovation then. Else, try to source for our non-interest bearing forms of loan from relatives, friends or parents like wat DSA states. As for your painting, Nippon charges about $1.3K for painting your 4 room house which is inclusive of paint and colour scheme consultation. As Nippon also sub-contract this to the neighbourhood paintshop, you can go directly to them and get about $200 off. But take note that the neighbourhood paintshop will not provide the color scheme consulation. http://www.nipponpaint.com.sg/downloads/PPS_V10_booklet.pdf Whichever way you choose, remember that wants are unlimited and do weigh the pros & cons carefully.

Welcome! I'm from 221A too. Which floor are you staying?

Hmm, if I do a simple calculation, it's abt $32 per pane. If I do for the living room & all the rest of the rooms, it will most likely be $32 X 21 (5+5+5+6) = $672. However, if I can recall, there are top, centre & bottom panes. the price per pane is just for the centre piece or the whole set?

So far no prob for me for using my M1 line. The line didn't even gets cut off when I'm in the lift. Depending on which types of laminates you are using....the last time I did some testing. I soaked a piece of Kronotex in a pail of water for a month and it didn't warp. It just turned darker in tone. Not too sure if this applies to other types of laminates. As for marble, besides the cost which is more abt 4 times the cost of homogeneous tiles, it will eat stains almost instanteneously. Secondly, got to polish once every few years to maintain the shine. My advice, go get those homogeneous tiles wth the granite look....plenty of them out in the market. Mind to share your quotation once you receive it? I'm thinking of whether to DIY or "outsource" to people to paste for me. Thanks. If I'm not wrong & if I remembered correctly, Jovi said currently it is @ 5.5 litres and it can still be adjusted. After adjusting, I flushed can c the "increase" in water pressure......however did not really tried doing big biz yet, though I did tried to flush down some toilet paper.