gladyslim

Can get it at hardware shop. Get the heavy duty type. Pm you.

Stainless steel, aluminum, brass and bronze does not have a layer of protective coating as in galvanise sheet and EG plate. It can be cut, weld, grind and polish (except aluminum) to its original condition.

Laugh later If the s/s is good quality type like 304, use of bleach won't cause that kind of rust. You should try and see it for yourself. Come back to me if it rust, I'll teach you how to polish it; in BA, hairline and non- directional finishing provided you have the random sander.

Order a wrought Iron tripod stand or look for those typist chair stand.

A magnetic catches should be able to hold the bi-fold door tight. The bedroom door maybe alignment problem; the spacing of the lock set and installation of hinges.

Try Garlin and Huat rubber at Blk 101 Towner Road

Apart from handle and lock, I think you need to get a BCA registered installer to do the replacement. Check with HDB, maybe can get them to replace foc as in tiling that is provided by HDB. Btw, you can try to get the hinge from pang giap, alphametal,com.sg and teckcheong.

Better go for stainless steel as aluminium is not a good choice for use in the cooking area.

I only buy grade 304 and 316 materials while working in my ex-company. What you mention should be different material as it's finishing is very shinning with 'golden' colour and 18/10 is what we normally see as in kettle, cooking pot, water pipe and door handle and hanging pole etc. The material is very must lighter in weight and the quality should be different too. Depending on what product you buy, if you are buying s/s sheet and pipe, I think there is only 304and 316. For those solid block using by engineering field, there is 402 and 410 and household ware is 18/10.

SUS 304 refers to stainless steel grade You can get it at certain hardware shop in the industrial park

Magnet does not stick on non- ferrous metal like s/s, brass and alumn etc. If your s/s backing was supported by plywood backing, it's most properly the screw that atrracts the magnet. The standard practice in the market uses only grade 304 s/s as grade 316 cost so much more. I don't think you are being cheated, there is only 2 different grades of s/s sheet in the market

Stick to your choice. Stainless steel is so much better than aluminium, you just need to use warm soapy water to wipe it with cloth or sponge.

The big nut is to hold the tap in place, if there is no need to replace the tap, just change the washer. It is either the washer, hose attach to tap or near the turning knot as in those tap for kitchen sink.

Those 0.80cents or $1.40 pfr is not stainless steel, it's only chrome finishing as in those hanging rod in the wardrobe. You can buy the whole length in hardware shop and cut it with a hack saw. The $12pfr is too expensive, maybe you can try teck leong at blk 28 Kelantan lane. Just buy 304, 18g will do. Stainless steel bracketry is normally customise.

The sink don't look like stainless steel material. It is also not likely the cause of acid on s/s. In industrial, chemical is use to clean s/s and etching the s/s to a desire print like those panel mainly seen in lift. What causes the rust on the s/s sink is normally the quality of the s/s. The quality of Japanese product cost more and better than Thailand and Finland etc.

You can get pipe and fittings at hardware shop, can try fupizat at Yishun= chong pang or Blk 1 YS One. There is no threading on the pipe, without tap and reamer, how you join it? and you need a pipe cutter to cut the pipe. too Maybe you can try conduits, the one for electrical wiring use.

Not sure about m/s but for s/s and brass, you can check with Latech Engrg at AMK pk 2- 64845507, Applied Magnetic and Wong brothers at Woodlands. If you can go with plasma cutting, you can check with How Tien Engrg at AMK Pk 2.

Are you referring to water pipe? There is galvanise sheet, if you need pipe other than water pipe, you need to send the pipe to galvanise. Normal paint does not stick well on galvanise finishing. It is not easy to weld and powdercoat too.

Generator - the one widely use in the pasar malam. With fuel, it generates electrical power. For use of spraying gun, air vessel or compressor is require. Many people is not aware that use of compressor is require to register with MOM - with a bi-yearly of inspection by registered inspector at a fee of $300/- and the require of certificate of country of manufactureof compressor Whether you use aresol spray or with the compressor, paint won't last long on HPL.

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Very smart - know how to use the angle bar to hold the laminates, no worry about peeling.

haha i am trying to make push pull under the bed storage actually. , thanks for the tip on reinforcement. For this, it is better to use the 'ball' type, easier to push & pull. you can get it at hardware shop or www.castor & wheel at Ubi, www.evermove; maybe is the link newnyew provided and this chuan hup huat at kitchener road.

Gypsum bd, a white plastering sandwich by a layer of paper with or without lamination as in partition. Ceiling board, there's those soft bd mainly use in office whereby you can push up any piece. The other one is a stronger, rigid and bigger dimension using 'fibre' to suspend it. Get more info at Meiko building material and Teck cheong alumin web

Go to a paint/hardware shop & tell them you want a paint removal for removing the varnish. It's 'teck sai', no idea what the actual spelling Maybe is what Diavonex mention - taxite. Be careful when using this, strong smell, just like thinner. Use a brush to apply this removal, leave aside it for some time till you see varnish surface. Remove it with a scaper and repeat the procedure. Leave the door to be dry enough before sanding. Dust it or wipe it clean before you apply the varnishes.