snoozee

these 3 core electrical wires are insulated with an outer layer with the individual wires inside again insulated. your toilet will have false ceiling installed after works are done right? so unless you are so lucky to have some kind of creature which is able to chew through the false ceiling and then subsequently chew through the electrical wires and also possibly cause a leak in your plastic/copper pipes, I would say the chances of a leak from your pipes causing electrical short circuit to your insulated wires is extremely low. if you are so concerned about this, then don't even have electrical wires running in your toilet ceiling. cos the chances of water leakage from your upstairs neighbor floor through your ceiling is much higher than leakage from pipes.

this Ring is installed at the front door. doesn't seem to have IP65 as well so if you want to install at your gate, need to build a case for it. then also the question is whether your home WIFI can reach the device which is enclosed in a casing and located about 10m from your WIFI router or not.

quote from the article "They can also carry out plumbing works if they work directly under a licensed plumber, who will manage and sign off on the works." not sure what your concern is actually. any problem that might arise from the works in your house, the licensed plumber who signed off the works will have to answer for it to the authorities, not the one physically doing the work.

any neighbor hardware stores will sell the bits. else you can go to self-fix or homefix to buy the bits. make sure you get the correct type of drill bits for drilling walls and you have a hammer drill as well. if you are planning to drill tiles, buy the type of drill bits for drilling tiles instead using the masonry bit for drilling walls. set your drill to normal drilling mode instead of hammer drilling mode. this will miminise the chances of cracking/chipping the tiles when drilling. after drilling through the tile, change to the masonry bit to drill the wall behind the tile so as not to damage the tile drill bit. most contractors can't be bothered to use a tile drill bit when drilling the tiles in toilet or kitchen and cause cracks/chips on the tile.

video intercom systems usually operate on low voltage DC so there's actually no need to pull a 13A socket for your gate. normally there will be a master device with video screen in your house and this is powered from the mains via a power adaptor and a cable is then used to connect the doorbell/intercom/video cam at the gate. my suggestion is to search and finalise on the particular video door bell you wish to get for your house then plan the correct wiring for the model of the system you're getting.

Approval is quite fast, at least in my case it was a matter of days for PUB to approve of the new drainage plans. Cost wise I don’t know as mine will be part of my house rebuilt. You will need to find a contractor to work out the costs if you are just doing an A&A or reconstruction. Just doing a CCTV survey will already cost at least 2k. So you add in the digging and laying of new waste water pipes, sealing of the old IC, creating a new last IC, joining the new last IC to the sewer, patching back of the floor which had been dug up, I think should be more then ten grand to do it.

my architect requests for survey data to be in xyz format so they can use the data to do the necessary modeling. anyway the surveyor will get hold of a known coordinate near your house and do the survey from this point to get the coordinates of your house boundary. engaging a surveyor don't cost you an arm and a leg so it would be better to just get it done once and for all. at least you will know exactly where your land boundaries lie and whether you are encroaching into public land or your neighbours are encroaching into your land lot.

for changing the roof no submissions needed with authorities.

go to jalan besar. from the junction of jalan besar and lavender street you can take a slow walk down jalan besar towards sim lim/rochor area. along the long stretch of road will be plenty of bathroom accessories, lighting shops on either side of the road. you can also pop by Mustafa center to check out their selection of kitchen hood and hob to compare prices

this is for how much kVA?

send an email to URA rather than call. it would be easier as the email would be routed to the correct department rather than you speaking to a call operator "maintenance only" depends on how the roof is declared during the submission. if you are going to build a stair or door to access the flat roof and have them in your submission drawings, then you are indirectly telling URA that you are planning to make use of the roof as a useable space rather than just a roof even if you declare that the roof is not accessible except for maintenance.

from what I understand, your walk up apartment would most likely be classified as a landed dwelling in URA's terms so balcony would be considered as part of GFA. it is strata because you do not totally own the piece of land the house is sitting on as it is shared between you and your downstairs neighbor and has no bearing on the house type classification. best is check with URA to clarify since they are the only one who can tell you exactly what your house is classified as roof top terrace will be counted as GFA regardless of whether it is covered or not as long as you have access to it. if the roof is only accessible for maintenance purpose, then it would be another matter.

for the front setback, as I mentioned, it depends on where your house is location as in certain areas URA allow for less than 7.5m. of cos you can always write in to URA for clarification on why your neighbor can have a lesser setback URA may "advise" your neighbor to shift the wall to 7.5m if they don't allow for lesser setback. for boundary wall, technically it is with reference from street level. however in your house case, since your house is actually on an elevated plot, the stone marking wall is kind of a retaining wall so your boundary wall plus retaining wall height can be up to 2.8m. ie: if your retaining wall height is 0.5m, you can add another 1.8m of boundary wall on top of this retaining wall hence making the entire wall to be 2.3m high. if your retaining wall is 1.1m high, you can add only another 1.7m of boundary wall above. basically boundary wall is limited to max of 1.8m in height. boundary wall plus retaining wall is limited to 2.8m in height.

If strictly on architect cost, might be a few times more between through a builder and direct architect.

you need an architect or PE to sign on the plans. the builder is needed to construct the house. some builders have their "in-house" architects to do the signing off.

Nope. The rules had not been relaxed. However in certain estates, the setback is allowed to be less than 7.5m so as to maintain a same consistent setback with the neighbors. Also, since you mentioned that your neighbor is just doing A&A, chances are the existing house already has a front wall setback of 6.5m so they can just rebuild the wall based on what was the original setback distance. There is a rule under URA guidelines which allow for this but there are also conditions on when this can be applied. Of cos if the above 2 scenarios are not the case, you can always write in to URA to “feedback”. If you want to extend also can. Just follow saf rule no. 7. However the fine is quite substantial if you do get caught.

of cos. all these would need to be done especially if the house is rebuilt.

need to check if the incoming cable from the public DB box to your house is currently single phase or 3 phase. if single phase, then need to run a new cable from your house to the public DB box and I think this is done by SP services. cost from what I understand is in the thousands since need to dig up the road and such. please check with SP services and share the cost estimate as I'm in the same situation as well https: / / www. corenet.gov.sg/einfo/Uploads/Codes/RPUB00004.pdf page 18 got some costing. but not sure if that's the final amount or not

$10K is not too bad la. cos they base the quote on how much RC concrete work needs to be done.

link to an old thread which has some information on costing

NSC I think refer to Nominated Sub-Contract. basically owner can source for own contractors to do some work instead of letting the main contractor to do all the work. however my understanding is that the main contractor will still charge the owner a percentage fee based on the amount of payment to the nominated sub-contractor as "attendance" fees. so even if the nominated sub-contractor's fees are lower, after adding in the "attendance" fee for the main contractor, the savings may or may not be there.

it your project is almost done, it's very hard to find another contractor or architect to take over. also even if you manage to find one, you will still need to pay the services of your existing architect and contractor based on the contract (which I assume you have signed contracts with respective parties).

1. hacking away the side wall should be ok as long as that wall is not a structure element. you may need to get a PE to look at the existing plans first to confirm. if it's a load bearing wall, you will need BCA approval. 2. I supposed your existing car porch roof is a pitched roof. you can convert it to a balcony. no submissions needed but again have a PE look at the plans to see if the existing car porch columns and beams are designed to take additional load if you have many people standing on that roof. 3. building a loft of more than 5sqm will require submission and approval. this is due to the change in structural loading from the added loft. if you want to go by saf rule no 7, still have a PE to go through the loft design just to be safe.

Your finishing all high end ones? anyway as mentioned, contractors will base their quote on how much construction needs to be done. The GFA number doesn’t really matter.

from my understanding, individual items price varies because the prices are just "randomly" allocated. as long as the final amount is that required amount, the individual items costing isn't that accurate. can share the amounts you gotten from the various contractors? i'll be doing my tender soon so curious to know what is the current rates