snoozee

you can search online for companies who does this type of lift and get a quotation from them. best is plan to have a granny room on the ground floor. if don't have and there is space, then renovate to carve out a granny room. alternative is to renovate to add a lift in the house. for new builts/reconstructions, cater for a lift. this will solve the issue of not needing a granny room on ground floor

If extend level 3 up to x2, you need a PE to confirm if the foundation can support the new beams and columns and roof for the 3 storey or not. If foundation can support, then no need to touch the foundation. If can’t support, then doesn’t make sense to just tear down level 2 and level 1 at X2 to do the foundation and then build up again. Might as well extend all the way to 2m or 3m from rear boundary already. staircase will be part of GFA so no difference have or don’t have. Once you extend the floor plate, it is counted as additional gfa. You want to use attic as rooms means you need to add a physical floor which will increase your cost as well if your house highest water point is beyond 125mrl or 25m above Singapore datum, you need a water tank somewhere due to low water pressure. It might be possible to shift the tank down but it will take up space which you may want to use for other purpose. This will also mean your house plumbing needs to be redesigned to accept the inlet from first floor rather than from the attic/roof.

Referring to your plans. Are you talking about extending level 3 up to gridline X2? If yes, then need to see whether the current foundation is able to take the load of additional structures for level 3 or not. If foundation isn’t strong enough, then level 2 and level 1 needs to be demolished to build the footings and underground beams in the soil. other option is to build the footings at 2m or 3m from rear boundary line and extend the house all the way to there. one problem you will face is how is an excavator going to be moved to the rear of the house to excavate the soil for foundation. Footings normally are around 1m below ground level so while it could be possible to excavate manually, it will take much longer than using a machine.

Not possible. Footing has to be done on the soil itself. Can’t add below existing floor unless excavation is done. foundation cost is maybe 10% to 15% of overall construction cost only. I’m basing on my total rebuilt costing.

whether need piling or not you need to refer to a PE as the PE will look at the structural plans and advise you accordingly. of cos if you need to do piling, then might as well extend as much as possible since the piling is a one time cost. but as mentioned, your house is on high ground so you may not need to do piling but can do footings which is much cheaper. but this depends on soil condition and what the PE decides on.

Open roof terrace means you need to build RC roof for your 3rd storey. Then you also need to plan for rain water down pipes to drain water somewhere when it rains. Also need to build stairs to assess unless your roof terrace is not meant to be assessable. Need to compare cost between RC roof terrace and normal roof but I suspect normal roof would be cheaper whether HS needed or not depends on SCDF. QP will need to consult SCDF on the requirements on whether need or not

No difference between class 1 and 2 apart from the project cost limit. suggest you find a builder to do your renovations as not all contractors have the experience to handle a landed housing job

What was shared is a section view. Elevation views show the outside facades only. my old plans from BCA also have section views even though the house was built in 1958/1959

you need a contractor with a builders license if you need to do extensions and such.

how much you want to extend? the backyard storage room at the rear does not look to have foundations done up (or the foundations are able to support upper storeys) so if you want to extend all the way to 2m or 3m from rear boundary, you most likely need to do proper foundations. since the house is on high ground (based on needing a water tank), you might be able to get away with raft foundation or some footings and need not do piling. since you need to tear down almost the whole rear sections in order to do the extension, you might not be able to qualify as an A&A anymore if based on 50% facade rule if you don't want to touch the main roof, then your 3rd storey extension may have to be lower such that a sloping roof can be built and joined below the existing main roof. roofing options are either RC roof, clay tiles, sheet metal roof, clay tile looking metal roof, and maybe a few more options. RC roof would be most expensive (if i'm not wrong). sheet metal roof may require slightly less slope than clay tile roof so your 3rd storey extension may be able to get some good internal height even if it's slightly lower. gutters are no longer allowed to be built so if your existing gutters are removed, you need to plan for how the rain water flows down from the roof. I can tell you that the amount of water that can flow down from the roof during a heavy downpour is no joke so proper planning is important in this aspect.

i'm using sheet metal roof with rockwool insulation, etc. basically same set up as my main roof. no heat issues even with full afternoon sun. basically if your set up does not have insulation materials, you will be faced with the heat passing through the roofing material. So glass roofs, polycarbonate roofs, etc will just transmit the heat through.

since it is for long term stay, i would suggest you design and built the house accordingly to what you and your family needs and don't need to think about resale value. the 2m side setbacks can be side gardens or external partial walkways to access the front/back without getting through the house. While 2m seems narrow, I have managed to squeeze a side garden with turfing strip and also a narrow 30cm walkway for my house in that 2m strip. this side garden serves as greenery as well as provide some privacy since i didn't built a brick boundary wall (i used fence instead) between me and my neighbour so that ventilation can flow through. your outdoor areas can also be your front yard as well and need not be the sides. try not to tile up the entire driveway as it may get very hot in the days and instead just tile what you need while leaving space for garden/turf. is your quotation for extension work? cos i see an item mentioning "extension". They are also proposing Timdek roofing sheets so do a search and see if you like the pattern of the roofing sheet or not. There's other patterns of metal roofing sheets if you don't like this pattern but of cos cost may vary. since you haven't signed anything, the builder also won't commit to anything and do more than what is necessary to close the deal. if your concern is about cost due to design changes, then you should appoint and architect first and do up the entire design before looking for a builder. in this manner, you will be able to see all the 3D renderings and finalised the design aspect. Then the builder will quote based on the tender specifications drawn up by the architect and there would be no dispute since the quotation is already based on finalised design. Also by calling a tender, all builders invited for the tender will quote in a standard itemised format drawn up by the architect and you can do a proper comparison as well.

contract from D&B contactor? if yes, no visuals means the architect isn't paid enough to do 3D renderings for you. detailed breakdown is common. normally should also specify materials to be used and how things are being done as well. eg: my architect specified what type of materials to use for my metal roof and the detailing of how the roof should be done as well. not sure if you get these details from a D&B company or not. anything my architect not familiar with will indicate as accordingly to specialist specifications and architect will work with the specialist (sourced by main con) to work out the details. the contract will indicate the max allowed price range for the flooring according to your selection. anything more than the price range means you need to top up. eg: $3psf for homogenous tiles. but if you see something from italy or spain which you like and costs $5 psf, you need to top up the amount. $3psf most likely limits you to selecting basic tiles from china or malaysia.

nothing much you can do except replacement.

just tear down and rebuilt since the house has so much existing issues. it will prevent you from getting headaches in the long run. what is your longer term plan for the house? is it for retirement? do you have plans for your kids to stay with you even if they get married? if yes, then build a slightly bigger house now to cater for future use. count how many rooms you need and the desired size of each room and work out the max GFA you would want/need. if your plans is to built and sell in 10 years time, then a 6000 to 7000 sqf house may be good. you don't have to built to the max just because you can do it. a landed house gives the owner the opportunity to have a private outdoor space for use. so building up to the max just because you can do it may defeat this purpose. if you can have a big front yard and/or back yard, you can use the space for entertainment or gardening, etc. the bigger outdoor area can also be used as a selling point as most houses now are built up to the max with hardly any outdoor areas. architect fees can be 70k and up. but you get someone to design your house according to your needs and project manage for you as well. with D&B, you are trusting the company to do everything in order and if things go south, you have no one to look after your interests. carpentry really depends on how extensive you want to do it. if you want to have custom carpentry everywhere, then expect to pay a 6 figure sum for it. if you just opt for the necessary items like vanity cabinets, kitchen cabinets, simple wardrobes, etc, you could possibly do it for less than 50k.

once contract signed with the confirmed construction amount, there shouldn't be any changes to that amount. variation orders can occur when unexpected things happen. eg: old house which is supposed to be torn down has asbestos and need specialist to remove and this item wasn't part of original contract. VO can also happen if owners change their mind on what needs to be done. eg: contract states porcelain/ceramic tiles for flooring and walls but owner decides to change to marble. so contractor will have to charge back this additional cost back to owner. my house was completed last quarter 2020 and we had incur VO before covid hit due to certain issues. other that that, the rest of the construction cost is based on contract amount even though delays occurred due to CB.

you can check with the LEW on the SP cost as well and see what he says. shouldn't be 30k like what was mentioned by your previous LEW. most likely SP didn't want to commit in case wrong info given. but landed residential prices are quite standard. very different from industrial where SP charges by per meter run. So to bring in incoming electricity to a site can cost tens of thousands or even more.

check with your builder if they charges a profit in attendance or not. if they do, whatever savings you may have gotten from group buy or self supply may end up going back to the builder. for lights, you can buy online from china and have them shipped back if you have place to store them. most of the LED lights in SG are sourced from China anyway. I've seen lights which I used for my house being sold in SG at a much higher price. even the LED garden light which I bought for less than $10 is being sold for almost $80 from one online retailer.

Marble

Should be around that time frame provided no CB again. construction loan normally you need to go back to your bank which you took mortgage from to borrow. If there’s no existing mortgage, than any bank which offers construction loan can do. but you need to confirm your plans first as bank will need to do a valuation based on your plans and then loan you the percentage amount based on your confirmed quotation from your builder.

Based on info from another thread, I guess budget around 600k should be safe

Not really necessary for 100A but since the upfront cost difference is marginal, might as well do it now

Not a lot of options for floor boxes in SG though. I bought this double socket from legrand if you want to do it, settle on the location and floor box type first before you start doing the flooring.

Not supposed to have power points on the floor due to concerns of short circuit from washing floor. But as long as you can hide the point from view during inspection, do it after inspection passed.

did you get a quotation from SP? the charges from SP is what i had indicated in my earlier post. nothing close to $30k that you mentioned. if you feel your LEW is expensive, get quotations from other sources and compare. the LEW cost may differ but there shouldn't be any difference of the cost payable to SP at all. $20k to rewire the whole house seems about there though.