kunning

Hi forummers My System 3 aircon has been breaking down too often and it is suspected that the pipes might have a leak. Everything was brand new when first installed so it was a big disappointment. As one section of the pipe casing is concealed in plaster, can anyone advise if the removal of the plaster will be done by the aircon company or do I have to get a plasterer to separately remove it. Am I right that a pressure test is needed to confirm the leak and the test can help to pin-point where the leak is? Many thanks in advance ....headache

beats me! Probably those wood filler stuff. I've seen these at the Self-fix shops. Surely cannot be using cement, right ? But, I wonder if the wood will still have weakened even after repair. Last thing I want is for my door to collapse.

floor tiles done. They kept quiet about it, and went on to do tiling like nothing had happened. I only found out later after the tiling. Contractor offered to repair but I'm not sure if I should just accept this.

hi everyone My new main door frame was cracked by a worker's drilling. The crack line runs from just above the base & is quite long. Would anyone know if this will affect fengshui as it's the main door? thanks

Hi I'm thinking of seeking out Classic too as my carpenter (from the contractor) is not very creative & couldn't seem to get what I want. Problem is my base was already done by the contractor. Would you know if this will be any contraint if I decide to switch to Classic? First time doing cabinet & not sure how it should go. Thanks !

I've been fuming mad the last few days 'cos I discovered a crack in my main door frame. Didn't see it earlier as I was distracted by some other reno issues. When I found out & asked the contractor, he admitted that the frame was alright on delivery but the crack was caused by his worker's drilling. What upsetted me was that he was aware & didn't inform me immediately, and went on to do the tiling & everything else liked nothing has happened. I would think informing the client would be the decent professional thing to do! Had I been informed, I would have demanded for the frame to be replaced & delay the tiling. The only response I have from him is that it could be repaired. Period. I've contemplated asking for a replacement of the frame but to do so at this stage would mean hacking away the tiles & skirting!! Should I accept his suggestion of repairing the frame? But, I concerned if there will be any problem when the main door is installed later. Also worried sick if fengshui would be affected. At my wits end! Could any kind souls advise please many thanks!

Mine's a 3-rm but with a larger area. Reno cost will be $30k+. I think that's the gauge if you're doing a major overhaul. You need to assess the condition of your flat and see what you can or cannot stand. For instance, if it's just old but usable, do you still want to keep it !! . Then decide on what works should be done. I actually surrveyed my new flat countless times before deciding on what to do. Even when you have started reno, you are also likely to change your mind about certain things. To avoid going out of control (in terms of $$$), I recommend that your fix a budget (add a buffer for extraordinaries), and monitor it like a hawk . Good luck!

Hi I've got the usual quote on Electrical works like the unit price for the various types of installation of points - similar to what some of you had mentioned here. However, till now, no contractor or ID has given me a straight answer of whether rewiring is needed for my 30-year old flat. Anyway, am thinking of checking out the need for rewiring just to be safe. Can anyone advise whether the cost of rewiring should typically include the fixing of points? Or is it just changing the wires only? Not sure what is the norm here. Thanks !

There are ready-made ones for $900+ & they're almost ceiling height. Good alternatives to customed-made. Easier to get rid of too !

Hi Aircon-speak is greek to me. I hope some kind souls can shed some light please. I had gone to Gain City but did not really have a good impression. The sales guy just rattled off all the techies and I have no idea at all what he's rambling. Later, I found out that he was pushing a brand where parts are hard to get . Anyway, I've got another aircon guy who actually come down to do a site check, advise & quote. Can anyone tell me is it true that armaflex is not required for inverter system? I was told that inverters will regulate itself and the problem of sweating will not occur. What's the difference between Grade 22 & 23 copper pipes? I'm looking for an inverter system 3 - to cool 2 bedrooms & living. As my place is not big, I worked out that 12000+ 6000+6000 btus should be more than enough. However, everyone's selling me 18+9+9. Am I right that the configuration will somewhat be limited by the makes & models? Will getting a higher btu setup (more than what I will need) cause more 'contributions' to PUB ? Is $3050 for a`system 3 Daikin inverter fair. any advice on the above is appreciated. Thanks.

hi everyone Thanks for all the responses and good tips. I had spent the weekend checking out the sinks & ya...those I like will definitely not go well over the chute. I actually will have 12ft+ of length (minus the chute wall & allowance for fridge) for the cabinet. Still, countertop is not enough because I wanted a tall unit & comfortable workspace. Had thought my layout plan was ok until contractor said no last week. And I'm starting reno this week! No choice. I'll just have to ask him for a solution.

Hi Has anyone extended your kitchen cabinet all the way to the chute wall i.e the sink will be located above the chute next to the window? I'm going for a straight-line layout & putting the sink there would give me more worktop space. But I noticed that the sinks are all quite deep and I was worried that it might get in the way of opening the chute (HDB does not allow shifting the chute hole). Not sure if there will be any problem with using the chute in future. any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

hi mel your worktop is cool! Are you using solid surface top?

sorry to hear that some you have this distressing experience. Based on what I had read on the order of reno works, it seems quite difficult to put the installation of w.c last....correct me if I'm wrong. But if I'm right, and short of banning the workers from using the toilets, I wonder if there's anyway to avoid or at least minimise the the situation. I'm afraid that if the workers think we are being difficult, they will "reward" us with shoddy work.

thanks babytan ! everything's smooth for you, I hope.

From my experience, it can enhance valuation - told by a valuer. These are taken into account when they do valuations. However, it still depends very much on the condition & quality of the built-in fixtures, and general market conditions. As built-ins are very much based on personal style & needs, there is also a chance that you may limit the pool of target buyers, assuming that you'll be reselling in future. Some buyers may find a place with too much fixtures, especially those that don't meet their tastes, expensive to buy & renovate. Personally, I hate built-ins, as it will be troublesome (& expensive!) to get rid of if I decide to change it down the road.

thanks everyone for your take on this hehehehe....guess you're right...it's just that it feel like patchwork....hmmm...maybe I'll just psyche myself that "half-dressed" is more sexy hmmm...All the while I had thought that the kitchen & toilet walls will be treated too ...sotong me. a story to share....a friend of mine, while doing reno, had discovered severe water leakage problem on the wall for the kitchen cabinet. It was not discovered until her contractor removed the old cabinet by the previous owner. The source of the water leakage was from the neighbour's side. I think it has to do with how the pipes were laid by HDB. Eventually, my friend had to report to HBD and can only put up the cabinet after the neighbour agreed - after a long, long time, to undertake repairs. Unfortunately, instead of making friends with new neignbours, she made enemies........

thanks for the tips! your deal is ok lah...so many items for that total price. somemore one-stop shopping...save time & energy too I will also go recce Hoe Kee. hope to sniff out some bargains somewhere & anywhere.

something's been bothering me about wall tiling..hope to hear your views here. Certain IDs & contractors have quoted for kitchen wall tiling but they only tile the parts without the kitchen cabinets. They claimed that since you're putting up cabinets, then there's no need to tile those area where the cabinets would be installed. Also, it will be cheaper. I'm not entirely convinced & wonder if it's just another ploy to up their profit margin. I thought a fully tiled wall would maybe give added insulation against water leakage ...yes? no? Also, it feels kind of strange knowing that your kitchen wall is "half-naked". any comments & advice is appreciated.

I thought it's allowed as I remembered seeing instructions for it mentioned in the HDB Reno Guide. You may want to check again. The guide is available at HBD's website. For old resale units, it might not be advisable because of potential spalling concrete problem.

hi babytan think you've got a good deal for your kitchen & toilet stuff. All from Summer? I'm looking for the same Fujioh models. Do you have the exact address of Summer? thanks in advance

Even if the materials to be used are super grade, $55K for a 4-rm resale is still an overkill . It is better if you set a budget & try to keep to it. Bear in mind that as the reno progresses, the cost is likely to go up rather than come down. So, the 55K may cost much more later on. One advice which I had received - & you may want to consider is to ask yourself how long you intend to own the place. If you have plans to sell, say, in a few years time, then you may want to weigh the cost of over-investing in it in case you cannot recover the $$ later on . Try to get more quotes & good luck !

Hi babykoh The only way that another person's floorplan will suit you is if the unit is on the same stack as yours - and assuming that it is all of the same design & layout. Since you need it urgently, you might want to get it directly from HDB. You can have it on the spot. Cost $5. But if you prefer to seek out a fellow forumner for a copy, you might want to provide more details, like whether are you talking abt a corridor or corner unit as the layout could be different. Good luck &

hi hi I'm in the final stage of shortlisting Still learning and gathering tips from everyone here so I can preempt some of the pitfalls. Must say that there's plenty of good learning points in this forum. Wish me luck

Think security....desperate burglars . No harm keeping the grilles. Chances of falling out accidentally is lowered