bunnybluey

For under mount sink, means the tap hole will be done on the kitchen top, right? Any tap also can, right? Sorry if I seem to ask dumb questions cos my hubby asked me any compatibility issue if we were to buy the sink overseas & then get the tap locally, so thought I just clarify before committing on the purchase? Thanks.

Thanks. Now that I'm more or less settled with the sink, going to source for the tap too. As for the tap, I'll probably get locally together with other bathroom stuff like toilet bowls, basin, shower mixers, etc, etc. This month until June/July going to be busy for us as going to start reno in end May, especially me, since I'm mainly the one researching & sourcing for reno stuff, air-con deals, electrician, plumber, etc...

Their way of shipping waived is that you pay for it first & they would refund to you, am I right? I gotten their reply, as an one-time exception, they will issue me with a refund for the shipping charges. On a separate note, have you decided which sink would you be getting? Thanks.

I just emailed Amazon, keeping my fingers crossed. Wish me luck!

I'm the exact opposite. I cook & love to bake as well, especially now I'm a SAHM. I have a lot of kitchen gagdets like KA mixer, hand mixer, air fryer, rowenta oven, small toaster... I didn't do up my entire kitchen with full cabinets, so this time round, after almost 16yrs in current hse, I'm going to do a major reno & build up more kitchen cabinets with more worktop space & power sockets, better to put as much stuff in the cabinets than having them lying around on the floor or some stuck in bomb shelter room. I currently have a double bowl sink which is close to 32", so no problem for me to get another 32" sink. After having a double bowl, I think a single bowl might serve my needs better, & hence looking at Kraus KHU100-32.

I see, so it's more of whether have space to put the 30" or 32". My flat is an "exceptional" case whereby kitchen is big, even bigger than my master bedroom. I checked with my ID if can use this for my new kitchen cabinets & he said no problem. Now is to compose the "magical" email to try to waive off the shipping fees...

For those who bought the Kraus sink, which size would you recommend? I saw some comments that they bought the 23" one & regretted not buying the bigger size one, so should go for 30" or 32"? Thanks for any advice.

I see, then that explains why the shoe cabinet is more expensive if there's mirror backing & glass shelving, which the quotation won't be able to show me these details. The normal full ht shoe cabinet pricing is quite okay, plus minus there. I do have a display cabinet in my living area working as a divider. The top part is glass shelving & bottom part is a small storage area facing the internal of living room. The top part does not have any backing, so it's like see through, which allows some natural lighting to pass through when I open my main door. Also, because the top part is see through, I can display my photo frames/decorations on both sides.

Btw, just to add on that if you intend to overlay flooring for your toilets, do check that the contractor does the overlay at a gradient so that the water will flow towards the drainage hole. This may sound common sense but depends on the contractor's workers, if they're just banga/PRC, they may just overlay as instructed but don't care if the water will flow properly.

ID would usually charge for consultancy/pm works, but I see your quote didn't include these, so probably the ID had already factored the cost into the other items. Hence if you're okay with the ID & satisfied with the quality of works provided by ID & the company, then leave some "room" for the ID to earn. No one works for free, so I do believe in give & take. Most importantly is do you think if the ID is someone whom you could trust to hand over your house to renovate it & complete the reno for you within your expectation. If you feel you cannot trust the ID, then perhaps source for more before you decide. My own house quotation may not be low or perhaps even premium on certain items but this ID was the only one who came down to my place to view the actual condition & I think that's important for an "old" flat. He also managed to capture most of my requirements as compared to other quotes that I've gotten. Among the few IDs we spoke to, we find him more knowledgeable as compared to others. Hence, we decided to go with him. We did ask for some discounts but I didn't try my luck to squeeze him dry cos we depend on him to keep the schedule on time, we prefer to start the work happily. For window works, perhaps you can get a windows contractor to go to your flat to view & give a quote. From there, then you can really compare apple to apple. I changed to WPC more of my own preference/liking, wanted it WPC since we gotten our house keys back then but the default provided by HDB was normal alum & we didn't change it, so gotten similar for grilles. Since we changing windows this time round, might as well go for what I like, like finally, haha... For the PD doors, many IDs go for aesthetic, probably why most of them quoted PD doors instead but there are some who still recommend bi-fold door. To me, PD doors do look nicer than bi-fold doors but I'm concerned if they last, especially I have young children who bang stuff & they can be rough type. For now, I told my window guy whose doing the doors for me too to just put top roller only but I still can add in the bottom roller at no extra charge before he placed order. He did advise me to install bottom roller so that it's more lasting.

I understand from some IDs that fridge base nowadays is not that common anymore, so you may want to think if you need it as you probably need to decide how big your fridge is before confirming the dimension of the base. What is the difference between the wardrobe in master vs other bedrooms other than a full mirror on 1 sliding door? Carpentry works usually go by per foot run, so based on same materials used, same requirements, 7.5ft, it should be only $2.1k, a full mirror on one sliding door needs to add on extra $600? I did a pull out mirror, was charged $200. Based on the pricing that you mentioned, you may wish to check what is the internal carcass colour, is the similar finishing like the external or it's just plain white? Is the internal fully customisable like you can choose all drawers instead of shelves? I'm going to do my reno for my current house, I'm charged similar pricing as yours but internal carcass is similar to external & I can choose any combination of drawers/shelves for the internal, just that mine doesn't have soft closing hinges as I don't need them. The full ht shoe cabinet is kind of expensive imo, $960 for 3ft vs wardrobes in bedroom 1/2, $1680 for 6ft & that incls soft closing hinges, 1/2 of this price is only $840? My full ht shoe cabinet is also 3ft & my quote is <$800. I would say that laying of cardboard & general/chemical cleaning isn't exactly FOC, probably already "bundled" under haulage/removal fees cos $580 is a bit high for just haulage/removal imo since you don't have hacking. But painting is cheap though.

Think not easy to compare quotes with other people unless is similar layout in the same estate. My hubby just signed contract with the ID that we selected. I'm renovating my current house after living for 16+yrs. Here's what I could share with you, not necessary pricing but more on durability/actual usage. Floor tiles are quoted based on floor area. My 3 bedrooms ~42 sqm, my quote was ~5k, so it's ~$119 per sqm, & the quote is based on $3.50 psf tiles. I'm not sure if your total bedrooms floor area, but if you used your quote for the bedrooms divided by your total bedrooms floor area & it's more than my ~$119 per sqm by quite a bit, then maybe flooring is a bit exp. A friend told me that my flooring is already a bit exp, haha... as she did hers those maisonette type of hdb flat 2 storeys only $7k+. For window grilles, if you intend to stay in your hse for >5yrs & want them to be lasting, please check with your ID what is the material quoted, i.e. hollow, double hollow or 2mm double hollow. What's being quoted in the market is usually hollow, which was what we did when we gotten our house back then, it's not lasting like in the past. We changed once to double hollow, & this time we're changing it again as we're changing to W.P.C windows & grilles. My ID also quoted PD door for my toilets. I went to search on reviews for PD door with number of people complaining that it's not durable because you have to slide it to the centre pt before you swing, so if you don't slide it properly, it may tend to spoil faster. Also, have people commented that they have to teach their guests to use the door so that it can be more lasting. Of course, there are people who said their PD doors are quite lasting. For me, I decided not to do PD door as I have 2 children, 4 & 9yo, which I don't think they would handle the doors with care. Hence, you have to consider who will be using the doors, especially if you have any young children. I opt for bi-fold door instead but did not let my ID do, instead gotten my window/grille guy to do it. For carpentry works, do you want to consider similar finishing for the internal just like the external instead of leaving it white? My ID quote is based on this for all my carpentry works, be it wardrobes, cupboards, kitchen cabinets, & I actually quite like them cos my current ones were left white & they turned yellowish over the years, some can be wiped off but some after wiping can still some kind of patches like you know white t-shirt turned yellowish or with yellow spots.