galliano

Have about 50 spare roof tiles which i wanna dispose. Called Veolia (the waste/recycle company in charge), and they classified it as construction waste. Referred me to NEA. NEA referred me to Veolia. Damm confused now. Seems nobody wants to help. Any idea who i can call?

Fully agree with Snoozee (who has been incredibly helpful with my "issues" earlier). Just to share few pointers from my personal experience for my minor A&A work: 1. The soil report is akin to a safe-proof step to make sure that the engineer's risk is minimal. And to be honest, most times, its a balance of their risk-taking appetite vs actual required. 2. Most times, the most safe-way is to do piling. Which is ridiculous as i have experience this ordeal months ago. None of my neighbors have done piling work despite my proposed minor A&A is much lesser than theirs, and the soil is definitely the same across the same estate. 3. Most important, there is no turning back once result of soil test is out. No engineer will dare to suggest alternative based on your soil test report. Unless of course, you pay more for them to "bend" their risk appetite. Thus, always consult your QP/engineer 1st. Negotiate a best & worst case scenario before embarking on a soil test. At the same time, go ask your neighbors on what they had done previously. You could even get a free copy of their soil test report. No harm asking.

Using this thread, considering is about terence reno. Currently have a open concept for level 1, as with all terence house, it does get warm. At the back of the house, I have a glass aluminium door, which whenever I leave it open, the wind comes through into the house and its nice and breezy. Would like to know if I can install some kinda secondary mesh door to prevent insects/leaves from coming into the house. Any suggestions on what I should buy or who to engage to get something like this done? Since the glass aluminium door swings outwards, I guess I have to install something on the inside. I can't do sliding mesh door cos not enough space. Much appreciated for any advise.

Thanks. That’s the ‘missing link’ that’s puzzling me. But it can’t be that rare request. Thanks for the heads up bout yr purchase. Can PM me the details?

Re-igniting this thread again on video intercom. Considering its Black Friday weekend, been busy looking at the deals. 1, Google Home Hub (Home Hub now on offer USD99) 2. Video intercom with doorbell (Nest Hello USD179) I guess for me, i would really want to - have everything on Google ecosystem so at least its scalable BUT, my concern is how my gate remote control can be linked to Google ecosystem. My contractor says its a hard wire connection basically to trigger the lock/unlocking of the front gate. Anyone has experience?

thanks for the advice. Any idea how much would piling costs? 15 x pillars, prob micropile cos there is not enough space.

Thanks for the advice. Guess i’m have no choice but to pay again for the admendment. Now should I proceed with the URA submission or should we go ahead 1st with the strucural drawings? My worry is that during the course of structural design, there might be changes again required for URA submission. My my point being .. is BCA submission dependent on URA submission now? As in, must we only start preparing for structural after getting the new WP. I would assume that eventually both must match of course.

Need to ask for advise, as I’m bit concern my engaged engineering company is not working in the best interest of me. 1. Gotten my WP from our layout submissions to URA bout 2 weeks back (that’s after waiting for 4weeks). However, I now plan to change the layout of my rear roof. Engineer resubmitted to URA again. But now I’ve been asked to pay $3,210 again for this new admendment. Is this correct? I already paid $3,210 previously for the 1st submission, and there was some miscommunications between engineer & myself/contractor whom we were told any admendments would only costs us $300+. is this correct? I have 2 options I guess -Pay AGAIN the high costs for resubmitting this small admenment. But what happens if I need to make changes again?? -Simple stick back to the old design which has already been approved. 2. Engineer advised me to engage soil inspection services. He claims that BCA would ask for it. I proceeded to do so, and now the reports recommends piling. Was it really necessary to obtain soil testing in the 1st place? I’m only doing a extension on my 2nd floor to maximise.

Hahah well thats true. Now we exploring the use of transparent roof tiles for certain portion.

Thanks bro. But I'm trying my best not to do any major roof (and false ceiling) amendments. Am thinking of alternative such as putting glass, or changing the tiles ... etc. Not sure which is the easiest and most cost-effective ways.

To leech off this thread, currently have a small interior cosy corner (10sqm) on 2nd level. No windows, dark even during day time. Any suggestions on how to let light in? Builder was suggesting to replace some of the roof tiles w transparent ones... seems odd. How bout using Sun Tunnels? Any suggestions? Or recommendations?

Thanks but not too sure how dormer roof can be applied to my case cos i extending the entire back 2nd floor area. Btw, do you have any roof recommendations for me to get a 2nd quotation?

He just sent me these pics. Looks very ‘old school’. Very concern.

Need advise. See pic. Basically, in order to save $$$ and not redo the entire rear roof of my 2nd floor inter, my builder is suggesting to simple use metal sheet as roof for my room extension. My concern is heat and the sound of rain. Furthermore its my master bedroom. He mentioned that the metal roof is insulated, but i'm not sure how its done. With a straight metal roof (no ridges), he is ensuring that the height tapers down from 2.7m original to 2.55m (including false celing). Costs of tearing down and redoing the entire rear roof is about 14k. The existing roof is quite new.

Have been searching around abit online ... most recommended Ring (https://ring.com/). The Ring 1 is on offer @ USD99. Looks easy to use, and practically no wiring involved.