vicenzo70

Bro Go with your eyes. The TV specs is just an indicator but its meaningless if you cannot decipher them. Im quite sceptical of LED above 50" coz of their expensive pricing & the technology is probably not there yet. How much is this set selling for? Cheers

Thank you to those who stood by me. I feel "Offended" when a non-electronics compliant person comes to this forum & dish out opening remarks like "PLASMA NO GOOD" thus my reaction. Those who benefitted from my advice, carry on enjoying your HTS. Frezhmen, how's your 608? Cheers

Bro, Your floorstander Jamo is good. Your receiver may be underpower. Consider a higher range of Onkyo. Possibly the 708 or the NR807 or the 808 cheers

Ive already apologise to her for my perceived rude remarks. Are you here to serve me justice as well? If you have nothing to contribute on this thread, kindly leave this matter to rest. Geezzz..... Cheers

Bro, (hope youre not a lady coz lady & electronics dont mix very well) Take a look at this website & do a comparison http://reviews.cnet.com/green-tech/tv-consumption-chart/ or read this http://www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/lcdtv-plasmavslcd.shtml Do some of your own research. Please also note that actual Plasma power consumption varies *a lot*, depending on the images shown. Bright images consume more power. Dark images consume very few power. It's different with LCD, cause the LCD backlight is on all the time, regardless of whether there are black pixels somewhere or not. So the real life average Plasma power consumption is a whole lot lower than the maximum power consumption number taken from the user manual. The real life average LCD power consumption is usually also a bit lower than the maximum number, cause you usually don't run at the highest brightness setting, but the difference between max number and real life consumption is bigger with Plasma. There you have it. Most importantly, buying TVs main priority is to obtain better image display. If you want PUB savings, then go for the LCD. Go for plasma if youre into HD format. Otherwise any stick & stone LCD will suffice. Cheers

Lady Need to clear the air with u. Youre offended by my "rude comment" which Ive otherwise explained the meaning of that word. So why should i mind my language which is not offensive at all? On the other hand, you were clearly duped by salesmen talk & hearsay & repeat this instilled knowledge in this forum instead of finding the atcual facts about it. If Im going to tell you that a $5K BOSE system will sound awful than a $2K brand-you-probably-wouldnt-have-heard-of, you probably wont believe me coz Im not a salesman right? Im here to correct presumptions & false claims made & give advice on those in pursue of a pure HTS. We're here to share facts & experiences, not hearsay. If you need any advice on a HTS set up, let me know. I can help a lot. btw, lady, i dont write for digital.asiaone or any AV magazine. I wonder where you get that presumptions from again?

Plasma brand leaders are Pioneeer (esp the Kuro series) & Panasonic. Do audition & make the comparison before deciding. cheers

Ive already apologised. Why cant u give it a rest? btw, "off your bollocks" in this context means a highly flexible term commonly used by the English. 1. something rubbish or 2. a falsehood or series of lies. It has nothing to do with the body anatomy. If you have thought otherwise, let me apologise again. Cheers

A display unit of 46" will suffice for a viewing distance of 15ft. Plasma dont use so much electricity as claimed, probably single digit increment. LED is a bit bright for me. Though its main advantage is its slimness but I cannot appreciate the pix quality dished out by a LED esp watching in HD. Cheers

pardon me for using such language. This forum is for information sharing. Im just cheesed off with so many "experts" advises when its clearly they dont know their own cheese. Kindly refrain from posting misleading info, Im sure that will save your cheese as well. Cheers

How to shop for an HDTV With different sizes, resolutions and functions, not all HDTVs are created equal. Do you need a "Full HD" TV or just a "HD Ready" one? The answer is neither: both "HD Ready" and "Full HD" are general terms that might vary from country to country and are not sufficient enough in informing a potential buyer on the quality of the TV's image. Read this complete guide to choosing the best TV for your needs and budget before you hit the stores shopping for one Point 1: Size - BIG is not always better How big is your room? If you have limited space in the room you're planning to place your new TV, a giant screen might not be the best for both your viewing pleasure and your eyes. Large TVs in tiny rooms will dominate decor and instantly shrink the size of the entire space to a Lilliputian scale. The tricky part is, when viewing them in a spacious showroom like that of an electronics store or an IT fair, they don't look too big. To make sure you don't end up with a too large (or too small) TV, make sure you take measurements of the area that you intend to place the TV, and the distance from where you intended to view it from. Ideally, viewing distances should be something along the lines of this rough guide: Screen Size --> Recommended Viewing Distance 26 inches --> 3.5' to 10.5' 32 inches --> 4' to 13' 37 inches --> 4.5' to 15' 40 inches --> 5' to 16.5' 42 inches --> 5.5' to 17.5' 46 inches --> 6.0' to 19' 52 inches --> 6.5' to 21.5' Point 2: LCD, LED or Plasma? There are three main technologies that you can choose from, with each one having it's own set of pros and cons. Here's a simple breakdown: LCD TVs These are the most common HDTVs out there. The cheapest of the three, they are offer consumers of having a relatively thin, power-efficient and lightweight TV for a pretty good price. LED-Backlit TVs Also called LED-TVs, they offer consumers a better experience with brighter screens and often come thinner than their LCD cousins. More expensive than LCD TVs, they might not be the best option in small spaces because of the significantly higher heat that the LCD diodes generate. Make sure you 'keep' them in a well-ventilated or cool space. Plasma TVs These TVs might look more expensive at the onset, but offer arguably the best picture quality and offer more value in the long run. However, relatively inefficient power consumption might put consumers off, especially for those who spend lots of time in front of the goggle box. Point 3: What is the difference between "HD Ready" and "Full HD"? These numbers seem to be on the lips of every television salesman nowadays, so understanding what they mean would probably save you some time while discussing a potential purchase. Numbers (720 or 1080) represent the number of pixels that your HDTV screen has. Since 720 or 1080 doesn't mean how many pixels your screen has in total but the number of 'lines' of pixels. In a nutshell, the higher the number would mean more pixels and therefore an increase in the TV's ability to display more detailed images. The letters "p" and "i" mean "progressive scan" and "interlacing" respectively. To make things simple, remember that progressive scan (p) is the better technology compared to interlacing (i), and results in a smoother picture. If you're looking for an HDTV to play games in high-definition (such as those on the PS3) or to watch Blu-Ray movies, go for the highest available resolution at 1080p. Should that TV set be one for Junior to replace that broken old CRT, getting one that is 1080i or even 720p would be pretty sufficient. What is "HD Ready" and "Full HD"? You might also come across terms like "HD Ready" and "Full HD" at stores. While figures like 1080p is an industrial standard measurement, terms like "HD Ready" are not. A 1080i set can be considered "Full HD" in some countries, and all TVs which are able to display HD images (from the lower-end 720p to the best 1080p models) are all "HD Ready". Before sinking in your hard-earned dollars into a new HDTV, make sure you get the actual industry standard HD resolution specifications from the retailer and check that against your needs. Contrast Ratio This term refers to how well an HDTV is able to display the colour black. There is no industry standard for contrast ratio measurements, but in general, plasma TVs have the best contrast ratio, followed by LED TVs and finally conventional LCDs. Point 4: Internet-ready TVs, are they worth the extra dollar? With the competition getting tough, manufacturers are adding more tech candy in the form of extra functions into their HDTVs. One of the most common add-ons is the ability for screens to connect to the Internet. Some models are Wi-fi enabled and can even connect to popular photo and social networking sites and services like Facebook, Flickr and Twitter. If you find yourself having to decide between paying more for an Internet-ready TV and getting one that doesn't have those functions for a little less, consider the amount of time you would spend on such services while fiddling with the remote. Most of these online services can be accessed through the computer, and most DVD or media players can display digital photos and home videos on your screen without too much trouble. Online services and Internet functions are still in a relatively early stage of development, so the general advice is to save a couple of hundred dollars and drop those for now

You must be off your bollocks with your comments. How high is electricity consumption? Kindly read my previous posts on TV selection. Pix quality wise, plasma beats all hands down. True black display can never be said of LCD or LED. If you want to save money, go for CRT. cheers

Hi Rule of thumb, small speakers set phase to 120Hz. Big speakers alternate between 60-100Hz. Phase is up to u. You try setting it at 0 & toggle between 0-360. I rest my phase at 180/270 After which, let your receiver do the calibration. You should hit the sweet spot. Btw, dont place the sub against the wall. Give it some space to breathe. Cheers

Why would one want to view TV on the side angle? And how many times would you do that? geezzz...these salesmen talk....... Go for Plasma & all your problems are solved.

Keep a lookout for Onkyo 708 & 808. Shld be coming to our shores shortly. Cheers

There's not much review on this receiver yet. What I really want to find out how is the audio performance from music listening. I have no problems with the video quality as my own OPPO83 BR player is equipped with the ABT chipset that does a superb job in video upscaling. Cheers

Response bandwidth is not a crucial factor when purchasing receivers. Most of the time, you probably wont discern the difference. The only way is to do the audition yourself. cheers

WCseow Youre getting more & more affluent in AV systems everyday. Good on u! ABT is indeed a better chipset but more for video quality (IMHO) & the faroudja chipset is better for audio. Likewise, do your own audition before making any purchases. Cheers

Yep. You dont read the manuals rite? Cheers

SVS is a good choice. Youre thinking of PB10 or 12? As for receiver choice, its up to the owner. I tend to like Onkyo for its warm sounding. Yamaha is brighter & it compliments well with DefTech & Tannoy speakers. Im bias against Denon. Cheers

Read the Manual for speakers calibration. Yes, u can get the installer to guide u. Just calibrate until you get to the sweet spot. Yes, require some efforts for new set up. same goes for LCD/Plasma TVs. Still need to burn in. Cheers

Bro Congrats. Onkyo 608 is only 2EQ calibration compliant which means it doesnt calibrate your sub for u. Get the installer to do it. After installing, do an audio integrity check using the Audessey function of your receiver. If possible upgrade the LCR speaker cables. Belkin cables is good. rear speakers cables are not so crucial. After installing, dont be too happy yet. New speakers need time to "burn in" so keep your system going for about 2-3 hours daily for the 1st 100 hours. Also, keep fiddling with the sub (esp the phase & crossover frequency) to extract the sweet spot as according to your listening ear. Def Tech 800/1000 are small speakers so do remember to calibrate it in your receiver to "small speakers" Other than that, enjoy your HT system. Cheers

HDMI try MONOPRICE. My subwoofer cable cost me $85 but I cant remember what brand. It sure gives it an additional 30% boost. getting rid of my DVD collection (about 600++) in favor for Blurays now. Now standing at 130 BRs & it still a long way before I can stock it up. Cheers

Bro congrats!!! Good choice on velodyne sub & AVR. Almost a perfect, harmonious combination. next step up for you is to get a better BR player & maybe a better subwoofer cable. Maybe you can budget for a better HDMI cable. Ok anyway keen on R1 DVDs? Im getting rid of my very mint collection. 1. man on Fire $6 2. Riddick & Pitch Black - 2 disc set - $10 3. Predator - 2 disc set - $8 4. Rent - $6 5. Dracula - 2 disc set - $8 6. Seven - $6 7. LOTR - Fellowship of the Rings (extended version - 4 disc) - $22 8. LOTR - Two Towers (extended version - 4 disc) - $22 9. LOTR - return of the King (extended version - 4 disc) -$22 That's it for now. PM me. Cheers

Congrats for being a proud owner of a proper 5.1 HTS. IMHO, once youve made your audition & bought the system, no point asking for opinions as youve said yourself that "youre attracted to the balanced sound & clear w/o frequency overpowering" For me, I tend to concur that Dali speakers tend to sound bright even for the Dali 6 & 7. I prefer a more warmer sound esp for music listening eg chinese audiophiles, jazz, classical. Anyway, thats me. If you appreciate what you have, just enjoy it. Cheers