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Hi gkbt, Thanks for the information - those did clear most of my doubts Especially the link about our stomach juice. But that link also bring up a concern - if I understand correctly, as we drink alkaline water, the stomach will produce more acid in order to maintain the acid level in our stomach. The by product of producing those acid are alkalines which will go into our blood stream. The concern here is will that lead to overwork stomach as it need to produce more acid ? I mean we might not see the side effect now but long term, will it has any side effect ? I know you might not have the answer, but just a thought. Thanks.

Hi gkbt, Reading through this thread, I can see that you are quite knowledgeable with regards to alkaline water system. I am looking at getting an alkaline ionizer system - most likely from Kemp Trading. I have no doubt in getting a water filter system - the doubt is on the alkaline ionizing part - should I spend much more to get one with ionizing capability to produce antioxidant alkaline water ? After looking through the following website, I am thinking twice : http://www.chem1.com/CQ/ionbunk.html Have you come across the above website before ? Care to share your view on the info presented in the above website ? The following main points (cut and paste from the above site) are the main ones making me think twice : 1. If you do drink alkaline water, its alkalinity is quickly removed by the highly acidic gastric fluid in the stomach. 2. Uptake of water occurs mainly in the intestine, not in the stomach. But when stomach contents enter the intestine, they are neutralized and made alkaline by the pancreatic secretions — so all the water you drink eventually becomes alkaline anyway. 3. "Ionized"/alkaline water is falsely claimed to be an anti-oxidant. It is actually an oxidizing agent, as can be seen by its ability to decolorize iodine 4. Claims that "ionized" waters are antioxidants are untrue; hypochlorites (present in most such waters) are in fact oxidizing agents. 5. Claims that "water ionizers are approved for use in Japanese hospitals" are misleading: these "approvals" merely attest to the machines' safety — that they will not electrocute you! My understanding is that the Japanese Health Ministry is highly critical of therapeutic claims made for alkaline water. Thanks.

After trip, just turn back the blue switch and it's fine - no need to switch off anything. Last time my reno electrician say my amplifier (from US) using transformer is causing problem when he is checking the load - but after that I already turn this off permanently.

Hi popcorn, So I just turn off the main, unplug the old one and plug in the new one ? Or I need to connect some wires ? Where can I find a new RCB - any particular brand/model to look out for ? Thanks !

Hi yoongf, Thanks for the info. So that blue thing is call RCB - maybe mine is just old and malfunctioning. Will most likely look into changing the RCB - last thing I want is going on a week long holiday and having the power trip at the beginning - everything in the fridge will rot Still, anyone has any good electrician to reco ? Thanks.

My reno electrician checked and don't see any problem with loading. The whole place is rewired during reno. Any reco for a reliable electrician that I can get a 2nd opinion ? Thanks.

Hi, I have been staying at my 'new' place for close to 10 months now. During this period, I have experienced multiple power trips (almost 5-6 times). Most of them happened during rainy days and my unit is on the highest floor (18th floor). However, my 2 neighbours does not have the same problem. The power trip is everytime trigger by the blue color switch in the power panel (see photo below). My previous reno electrician checked and he suspect that blue switch is too sensitive and suggest an option to try resolve this issue is to replace the blue switch which will cost $100+. Please note that the power panel is the old one (this is a resale flat) - should be around 9+ years old. I would like to get a 2nd opinion from another electrician. Anyone can recommend a good and honest electrician ? Anyone encountered similar problem and how do you resolve it ? Here is the blue color switch I'm referring to : Thanks.

Hi Chunky Monkey, Thanks for responding. I thought Outdoor Unit is the standard term use for the unit you place in the aircon ledge - the aircon blog guy use this term and so does the aircon salesman. Anyway, yeah, it's the unit that contain the compressor. My HDB resale layout (NOTE : master bedroom has raised ceiling since I'm on the highest flr) : In term of usage, almost every night, master and 1 common room will have aircon turn on for around 6 hrs. In 1-2 yrs time, all bedrooms will have aircon turn on every night for around 6 hrs. Living/Dining - rarely on weekdays and more on weekends - maybe 3-5 hrs each weekend day. every weekend. For the bedrooms, 1 bedroom might have aircon turn on during weekend afternoon for maybe 3-4 hrs each day. If I install a System 3 and a System 2, my initial thinking is to use System 3 inverter for the 3 bedrms and System 2 non-inverter for the living/dining. Another option is System 4 for everything. Details of the systems are listed above where I share the quote. Appreciate your advice.

Just to share the quotes I obtained from GC. Are the quotes reasonable ? Each quote is based on : - Grade 22 (thickness=0.71mm) copper pipe - Class 1 rubber insulation - 16mm drain pipe - Inclusive of stainless steel brackets SETUP 1 (System 3 + System 2) ======================== System 3 (S$3035) --------- Outdoor : Mitsubishi Electric MXY-3A28VA Indoor : 1 x MSXY-GA13VA (3.5 kW) - Master Bedroom. 2 x MSXY-GA10VA (2.5 kW) - Bedroom 2 and 3. System 2 (S$2170) --------- Outdoor : Mitsubishi Electric MUX-2B24VB Indoor : 2 x MS-B13VB - Living and Dining. SETUP 2 (System 4) =============== System 4 (S$4098) --------- Outdoor : Mitsubishi Electric MXY-4A28VA Indoor : 1 x MSXY-GA26VA (7.1 kW) - Living and Dining. 1 x MSXY-GA13VA (3.5 kW) - Master Bedroom. 2 x MSXY-GA10VA (2.5 kW) - Bedroom 2 and 3.

Hi Chunky Monkey, I have similar requirements - i.e. 3 bedrms, living + dining. Initially I was thinking Sys 3 inverter for the 3 bedrms and Sys 2 non-inverter for the living/dining. I'm quite sure at least 3 bedrms (master + 1 common) will have aircon on at night. So, if I follow your suggestion, i.e. Living + 2 common bedrms to Sys 3 and Dining + master to Sys 2, then I will end up having both the outdoor unit on nightly. But if I use Sys 3 for bedrms and Sys 2 for dining+living, then only 1 outdoor unit will be on nightly. I'm not sure the impact of having all 3 bedrms stress the compressor as you mention as compare to having both outdoor unit running nightly. Appreciate your advice. Thanks.

purpledino, redbottle, Thanks for the responses and info. But was told by Kronotex agent that for the warranty, the sale invoice is required and if go through ID, invoice will be betwen ID and Kronotex, not owner and Kronotex, hence Kronotex will not honour if ID already close shop. Is this true ? Does the warranty card says need to show invoice ? And if yes, do you guys have the sale invoice ? Lastly, the Kronotex agent told me through ID only can get the Dynamic range, not the higher end engineering flooring such as the Amazone range. Thanks !

Hi, I'm going to use Kronotex laminated flooring for my resale flat reno. I need advice on whether to get it through ID or direct from Kronotex at Park Mall. Here is what I see as disadvantages of getting through ID : 1. Price higher. 2. Warranty will not be valid once ID shop close down since Kronotex sell to ID and warranty/invoice with ID. 3. Installer will be sub-con vs in-house installer (if getting direct from Kronotex). I'm assuming in-house installer from Kronotex will have better workmanship (I might be wrong here). The only advantage I can see getting through ID is single point of ownership/coordination. Anyone bought their laminated flooring direct from Kronotex ? Any issue ? Any advices/comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Warrior88, Is there such model as MXY-3A38VA ? I don't see that listed in Mitsubishi website : http://www.mitsubishielectric.com.sg/produ..._split_inverter Only model for Sys 3 I see there is MXY-3A28VA

Hi Warrior88, I got the following for the bedrooms : MASTER BEDROOM ============== BTU = 9275 (2.71 kW) BEDROOM 2 ============== BTU = 8327 (2.43 kW) BEDROOM 3 ============== BTU = 8327 (2.43 kW) Hence I go for MSXY-GA13VA (3.5 kW) for Master Bedroom, 2 x MSXY-GA10VA (2.5 kW) for Bedroom 2 and 3. I understand Bedroom 2 & 3 might not be cooling enough but from experience, I normally set temperature to 26C lowest since these 2 rooms are my kids' rooms and we normally don't make it too cold. Hence, I doubt there will be cooling problem. I might be wrong here but worse case, I can still opt for 3 x MSXY-GA13VA (3.5 kW). Will talk to the aircon seller and see what they recommend. leen, Thanks for the detailed info ! I am looking at Sys 2 for my living/dining because I won't be turning both on most of the time. Mostly only the living area and dining only when we are eating over there. Also, my living/dining is longish shape, worry if Sys 1 can cover the wide area and will definitely takes longer to cool the designated area.

babyQ, Actually whether you can have 2nd outdoor unit depends on the max electrical limit your block has. For mine, I wrote to HDB and they confirm no issue since my block as 40A (vs some older HDB with limit of 8A or 11A). You can also check online here : http://www.hdb.gov.sg/bn25/isos119p.nsf/Search?OpenForm But I feel safer writing to HDB and ask if can have 2nd outdoor unit - at least got black & white. Never mind, I'm sure you already learned a lot from this reno and your next one will be near perfect