Pelect

You would need to extend a live, neutral and earth wire from the light to the fan. This means the current switch will control both the fan and the light. If you want a separate switch for the light and the fan, you need to tap the live wire from the existing switch to the new switch and run it all the way to the fan. Regardless, it is not recommended you DIY in this case as you are dealing with a damp environment. I believe you should be able to find an electrician - for the 'right' price.

Yes, it is simple but safety is extremely important. Make sure you turn off the circuit breakers and wear thick rubber shoes Also, practice stripping wires so that you do not nick the wires.

Are you thinking of doing it yourself or getting an electrician to do it?

If the electrician follows the electrical code of practice, it should be safe. If you are concerned with overloading, you can ask the electrician to wire a separate branch circuit from the distribution box, though in most circumstances, you don't need to. It will cost you more to wire a separate branch circuit.

Thanks

Could you share the name of the supplier. Thanks

I have asked many suppliers in Singapore regarding battery powered waterproof digital locks and all replies have been negative so far. If you manage to locate one, please share. Thanks.

Hager Singapore recently sent out news they have the Berker USB wall sockets. It comes in 2 per. http://www.berker.com/en/international/products/highlights/usb-charging-socket/ I normally buy from Choo Chiang marketing and if they have no stock, they will order it from Hager singapore.

I doubt it will be split. 30A is already at the low end.

Not sure exactly what it stands for. One difference is PLC is the 'push in' whereas E27/E14 is the screw in type.

Yes the $$ difference for a 1 year loan is not that big in absolute terms and one has to consider other factors including terms and conditions to decide which bank to take loan from. If other factors are not important, I would take the lowest loan offered. I found a link which gives a better overall view on loan comparison. http://www.singaporerenovationloan.com/ Regardless, best is not to take any loan if possible as even the lowest rate is still very high.

There are handheld scanners available in the market that can detect wires,pipes, etc but I do not find them particularly reliable. Wires are normally routed at right angles to the socket, so avoid drilling anywhere directly above, below, to the right or left of socket. Remember this is just a general guideline because you may have other socket wires, water pipes, air con pipes, etc. Regardless, I wouldn't drill a hole directly above the socket.

Please note also to read the terms and conditions before taking loan

You can buy them from Teck Cheong Aluminium Blk 803 King George's Ave #01-246 They can cut to length so you need to know in advance what lengths you require.

Out of curiosity, I did a comparison on the loan rates offered by some banks. I was surprised to find Maybank's flat rate has to be paid in advance. Hence comparing Maybank's 3.68% flat rate and RHB 3.68% flat rate, even though they are the same rates, the effective rate for Maybank is much higher. Note the above just looks at the numbers. One has to consider other factors as well, like convenience, existing bank customer, etc. Do note the numbers in the table above are as of current posting. The banks may revise them anytime. Links: http://info.maybank2u.com.sg/site_functions/rates_lending.aspx#renovation https://www.hsbc.com.sg/1/2/personal/loans/personal-loan http://www.ocbc.com.sg/personal-banking/Loans/renovation-loan.html http://www.rhb.com.sg/personal/loans/reno_loan.html http://www.dbs.com.sg/personal/homeloans/renovation-loan/default.page

The loan is administered by the bank so I believe you should have no problems as long as your qualify.

I presume you are taking the loan directly with a bank. You should be able to take 30K instead of 32K. This is assuming bank have no concerns with loaning you 30K

Have you found your in wall heater timer switch. I have 2 extra units which I imported from UK. It is the silent type with no mechanical timer sound. PM me if you are interested to buy. Rgds,

Well done!

Wah Yew 592 serangoon road tel: 62941355

Watt is the rate of energy consumption. In the pre-LED days, incandescent lamps do not normally provide the lumens value and generally, you can say that a higher wattage bulb is brighter (has more lumens) than one with a lower wattage bulb. But you don't normally hear of lumen/watt for incandescent. You can think of lumen as a measure of the visible light output. So, when LED got popular, the manufacturer normally cross reference the watt for LED to that of watt for incandescent for example. They don't normally cross reference LED lumens to incandescent lumens. We can relate the cross reference of LED wattage to incandescent wattage and instantly realize the power savings and it is assumed that in such cross reference, the light output should be comparable though I personally have not verified it. But to be precise, a better way to compare would be lumens per watt. Now having said that, it's not as if you have a lot of choice. Take my case for example. The highest wattage for my E14 philips LED bulb was 3watt. What I wanted was more like 7watt but as of 6 months ago, I still cannot find anything higher than 3W LED for E14. So, it doesn't matter whether I am looking for lumens or watt. It's just not available. Even 3 LEDs in the light fixture could barely light up my dining area. From a practical standpoint, without getting all tangled up, decide what wattage you want first for either incandescent or fluorescent. Then if you decide to use LED, just use the conventional watts cross reference provided by manufacturer as a guide and if price is not an issue, choose a higher wattage or lumens value as subjectively, LED tends to appear dimmer, at least for me. As for temperature colour, for me, neither warm white LED nor warm white fluorescent can compare with incandescent. The colour output of incandescent is just so beautiful. LED is the worst; at least for the 3W warm white LED that I have. Another limitation of warm white LED is that the lumens value is lower than that of LED daylight so if you choose warm white LED, you will have another problem to deal with. Philips has high CRI LED but even so, it still is no where close to incandescent. So finally in my case, I have fluorescent, LED and incandescent in my home. For practical reasons, I don't use incandescent a lot. Disclaimer: I do not have a lighting background. Someone more knowledgeable might be able to explain better.

One of the key advantage of LED is the long replacement cycle. So if you have a light is that very difficult to replace as in an industrial setting, LED may be an attractive choice. This thread below has a good discussion. http://www.renotalk.com/forum/topic/49777-downlights-led-vs-plc-very-confuse/ On top of that, the move to LED is driven by lots of marketing and the price erosion. If price is not a concern, by all means, go for LED. They are modern, generate less heat and have a longer replacement cycle. (Buy the branded ones though, like philips, panasonic, etc. that have matching drivers) The one thing you need to really think about is what happens if it is not bright enough or too bright (less likely). So, you need more detailed planning when laying out your lights if you go for LED but I find this very difficult because it is only after you install everything then can you tell if the lighting suits your tastes and environment. By the way, I should add I do have 3 E14 warm white screw type philips LED for my dinning light and they are way too dim even though I chose the highest wattage.

Design attractiveness is subjective. There are many types of designs so it's up to you to choose. You can fit LED bulbs into downlight housings, you just have to find the right type. Some use converters which I dislike. Personally, I don't bother with LEDs because the price is way too high and to me, they are not bright enough. I like to have flexibility like changing to 5W, 11W, 18W, etc. so that's why I change to E27 CFL. Besides, I don't have to worry about matching ballast. Also, E27 screw type base also allows you to put in LED instead of CFL should you decide to do so.

Two of the traditional downlights are PLC and the screw type E27 CFL. Both are fluorescent. The PLC type uses an external ballast and the CFL has a built in ballast in the lamp. CFL is slightly more expansive than PLC. If you use CFL, yes, the only thing you need to replace is the bulb. If you use PLC, you need to match the correct ballast to the power rating of your light. I am in the process of changing all my PLC to CFL.

Nice and clear picture! Just curious. It looks like the piping for the wash basin is concealed? Did HDB give you any feedback?