Pelect

w7_lee has a good suggestion to remove 5 instead of 1 at a time. If removing the tubes does not solve the problem, then you need to focus on the ballast and also check the wiring between ballast and end connectors. I wouldn't recommend to do this if you are not familiar with electricity. What you can do in this instance would be to see the ballast rating for all the tubes are the same and meant for the type of tube you are using. I'm not sure if ballast is prone to any earth leakage and it is more difficult to trouble-shoot if there is earth leakage. Regardless, until the issue is well understood, no point to change all the tubes and hope the problem will go away.

It seems rather extreme to change all the tubes just to solve the problem. Worst is that after changing all the tubes, the problem might still be there. So best is to find out the root cause if possible. However, to begin with, could you describe what happens when you say the lights will short circuit sometimes? Do you mean the circuit breaker(s) trips or one of the tubes gets blown out? How many lights are there in total and does one switch control all the lights? If it is the fault of one particular ballast or tube, one thing I can think of is to remove one tube at a time and see whether the problem goes away.

Congrats! I've been waiting for the updated version of the wemo insight switch UK version but it seems like they have stop producing them. It's going to be a challenge where you are going to house the relay if you use the wemo for heater switch. It's probably neater if you opt for a wall timer switch instead. I presume your intention is more of power saving as unlike a light, you don't have to turn the heater on and off that often. Nevertheless, keep us posted if you go for the relay option. Thanks.

I came across once a fan that was slanted and I was also puzzled at first. Upon closer inspection, I found that the housing was 'pushed in' or 'dented'. If you look at the fan from the side, the housing should be at right angles to the rod but in this case it's not. So, even if you have the swivel, it will still be slanted after installation. Luckily for my friend, the supplier was willing to change for a new fan which was a surprise to me. As to why it was 'pushed in' to begin with, I suspect that the unit has been dropped during production or transportation. I'm not sure if you want to spend time balancing a fan that is not level. It's quite an eye sore to me personally.

If electrical system has been running fine for a year, it's hard to imagine that re-wiring is needed. Do you know exactly what needs to be re-wired and what lead to the conclusion that it is a wiring fault? Can you take a picture of the inside of DB box and post it here? I think you should seek a second opinion if you are not sure.

I'm sure you will be thrilled once you get it up and running. Please us posted

I think you need a neutral wire and the challenge is to pull a neutral wire to the switch. You might want to ask an electrician to help you out unless you are familiar with household electricity. If you have no problems pulling a neutral wire, then you should be able to do it yourself.

This link gives you all the electrical requirements. You need two dedicated lines. http://www.regionalsupply.com/customer/resusa/customerpages/specpages/product%20information%20sheets/HP/HP%20L26500%20Site%20Preparation%20Guide.pdf

http://www.leapfroglighting.com/lighting_and_uv_radiation/

http://www.fda.gov/Radiation-EmittingProducts/RadiationEmittingProductsandProcedures/HomeBusinessandEntertainment/ucm116400.htm#3

Rivets are normally removed using drills. Start with a small diameter drill and increase progressively.

wire nuts and wall nuts

I saw one in sungei road (kitchner road) before. I think it is Toyostar Sw-688

This is not standard nor the proper way to join wires but unfortunately it is very common. It is fast and cheap but unreliable and not safe. As with the word safe, does it mean it will result in fire or electrocution? Not necessary. Just like the warning not to climb the last rung of a ladder. It is not safe but it does not mean the person will fall. A safety hazard depends on several factors for mishap to occur but it is important to be aware of the risks, just like not wearing safety goggles when grinding or drilling. The proper way to join wires is to use a wire nut or other forms of connectors shown below. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q614/worldtac/connectors_zpsb0336a1e.jpg Do note however the good quality connectors (JST) are expansive and cheap connectors are as bad as twisting wires. A good connector can cost $0.30 or more each. The cheapest type most commonly used is the transparent connector with screws. What I don't like about the screw type is the heat will eventually make the transparent casing brittle, crack and break off.

If you want to be safe and precise, find out first what is the power consumption (kW) for each of the device.

http://ccm.sg/www/

That is a difficult question to answer. If they are genuine, then it's likely to be ok. Likely because at that price, they could still be rejects coming out from production. If they are fake, anything can happen especially if you have heavy current going through the switches. So, the short answer is there is risk and you have to take it if you really want the price differential. If you have an infra red thermometer, you can measure the temperature to 'roughly' assess the risk but you need to do the measurement at the terminals which in itself is not safe as you need to have current flowing through while measuring. For me, I only buy a few so I don't bother to go through the hassle. Generally though, I prefer to buy electrical stuff locally and I try to buy the branded ones like Hager, MK, etc. A hager switch can be as low as S$2+.

Yes. This is difference between 12A and 16A. For 12A, the switch can take up to a load of (12AX220V) = 2.64kW For 16A, the switch can take up to a load of (16AX220V) = 3.5kW Now it does not mean that you can simply put a load of 3.5kW on the circuit even if you have 16A switch. The maximum load you can put is governed by the lowest rated component in the circuit, be it connector, wire, fuse, etc.

I've used this before and I bought it in Singapore.

Nice. For heater, check to ensure it does not exceed 3.5kW (i.e. 16A X 220V = 3520 Watts)

I presume you are referring to a consumer rectangular socket outlet meant for 3 rectangular pins. Higher rating than 13A is ok. There are many brands available including Hager, MK, etc. Choo Chiang Marketing sells them at very competitive prices.

Yes, I think you should reject any contractor that tells you they are not responsible if they drilled into wires, pipes, etc. Unfortunately, I have not come across any contractor that uses detecting tools to sniff out wires, etc. The scanner tools that you find in most hardware shops are not reliable and slows down their work. Once I had my air con draining pipe drilled and it took a very long time before it was found that the leak was due to drilling. It was mystifying in the sense that there was no leak unless the water level reaches the level of the drilled hole. Anyway, best is to stay away from any contractor that does not want to bear responsibilities for their faults.