mint

The thing which I circled - do u all have this when u do up your rain shower? I asked my sanitary shop and the guy said I can buy another straight pipe to replace this flexible soft pipe. I dont know why I got two flexible soft pipe joined together - looks so unprofessional n ugly.. Mine is not concealed piping, so is it like this? I see other pictures, they dont hv this thing. Its like a striaght pipe. Is it becos the tap is different from mine - mine got a tap for water to come out. If I buy the striaght pipe to replace, what if the distance/ length is not correct, then my plumber got to remove and re-install my rain shower again? Got from Kitty's Cattery http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?au...&&st=20 (sorry for not getting permission first..- just trying to illustrate what I mean - ehhh hope u dont mind.) I told my ID about it, but he dont seem to understand what I say. He say its becos the installation is not completed, thats why like this. But the installation left only hot and cold water piping.. I dont think the hot & cold piping got anything to do with this flexible pipe?? (a bit lost)

Hmm.. Kitchen door passage way can also put protective rubber? I thought thats used at the shower screen area to prevent water from coming out? My shower screen got protective rubber at the side, but thats because the rubber is installed onto the other glass pane. If they install that rubber, guess the rubber must stick to the tile? OK shall ask him to plaster my wall. Maybe thats why my neighbours all make wooden sliding door instead of glass door cos the passage way is slanted? (I see most of them with doors are using sliding glass or sliding wooden doors) The purpose of making the door is to prevent air con from escaping when I on the aircon in the living area.

Mine is not a wooden frame door. its just one single pc of glass door with 2 hinges that is fixed on the right side of th glass and drilled to the side concrete wall. So my door has a handle and can push or pull with hinge on the right. On the left can see the big gap becoming wider n wider towards the bottom half. U mean they can plaster the wall on the left to make it about the straight? But i dont think can, cos its a right angle wall and on the other 90 degree is the entrance to the bomb shelter, and its tiled with wall tiles. Headache.. When I asked ID, he did not suggest any rectifications, just say your wall is slanted, so like this lor. The glass cannot cut slanted.. must be cut straight.

seee the gap soo big.. the top part is like 1cm gap, and the bottom is like 5cm gap. they say my wall is slanted, so no choice. the glass door measuremnet is straight cut. im thinking can they slant the glass door to fit my slanted wall frame? sigh.. how? is it no choice but accept it? v obvious.. anyone walk pass can see the gap

My ID just installed a glass door for me..and comes with a stainless steel handle. In this case, wont the acid wash discolour my stainless steel handle??

The carpenter tell me acid wash can only wash all other tiles, except homo and marble, cos will cause it to lose its shinniness/ polishness. But my ID says ok, no problem. The polishness will still be there. Correct ??

My ID company got advertise in here reno forum. Duno they reading a not.. I see the measurement is top width -846 mm, bottom width is 841mm, height is 2100mm. Will try to post pic.. tell me if acceptable or I shld ask the ID to change the whole glass door again.

As a lady, I agree that shoe cabinet is very important :=) I guess for me, I already have about 20 pair of shoes (hmm.. 5 slip ons, 2 slippers, 2 track shoes, 5 high heel shoes, 5 short heeled shoes, 1 boots, 1 bowling shoe...) So I have a custom made 4 feet tall shoe cabinet, with a 3 feet short cabinet with seatee. The below portion is to put shoes, then Im making a drawer to keep all socks (&etc). Above portion is to put shoe boxes, newspapers, etc. There is also a compartment to keep brollies. Very happy with the shoe cabinet.. my hubby is understanding (meaning he is ok to us buying one from outside or custom made) Cost $850 - ok lah, even if I buy 2 shoe cabinet to put, its about $300x2 = $600 right? For $250 more, can have a tall shoe cabinet custom made- why not right? If the guy disagreed, I would probably be nagging about it every day into his ears..

MY Id just install a glass door at my kitchen passage way, but guess what! But the glass pane doesnt seem to be straight! My ID says its my door passage way that is not straight, thats why like this. Cant they accomodate the glass to be the same as my door? Can this be done? Imagine the spacing between the glass door and the wall increases fom 1cm to 5cm!

Gosh, I asked him roughly when I can send in my furniture cos I need to make apptm at least 2-3 weeks in advance. He say he dunno. (Sigh~) I asked him after carpentry, whats next.. He said finish liao, except touch up.

Can tell me when do we arrange for the TV, furniture to be in the home? My reno is in the carpentry stage. Going to install carpentry this Friday, and over the next few days. Glass door also not yet installed. So should my fridge, washer n dryer come in later like 2 weeks later? Or is it after the reno, there is a need to check defects, rectify defects, wash and clean the home many x, before these items can be delivered? USually how long does this take? Another thing is that for plasma TV, is it the delivery guy will install for me onto my feature wall, or can my carpenter install? My feature wall will be up soon, so do I ask them to come a few weeks later, so that everything is clean before the TV can be installed? Or can send the TV to my home, then install later (usually will they come again -got extra charge right?) Also my dining light is not yet installed. My ID say can deliver the table first so that can position it in the home, then can sort of figure out where to put the hanging dining light. But im worried if they deliver the table, then maybe the workers when they come to do re-painting, touch up, may damage the table? Actually what happens after carpentry?

really? but mine is not cabinet leh. i mean is your quote per sq foot, for making kitchen cabinet, or for wardrobe, so wld hv include doors, tracks, drawers? mine is just a plank of 5 ft solid plywood wrapped with laminate and hammered/ installed into the wall.

my thoughts - maybe the electrician shld have wired the : 1) living room to a 9A 2) dining room to a 9A 3) mBR to a 9A then no tripping will occur right? rather than all wired to a 9A? btw, im also installing speakers.. will this impact the trpping at the 9A circuit breaker? may I ask how much is it to change from a 20A to 13A - ID charge me $40?(change from aircon pt to 13A pt) how much to change from a single socket to double socket? how many to install a socket for the dryer - is it a 13A socket?

I agree with you. Suay lor.. Sianzz. I dunno what reasons/ excuses he will use. By the way, is patching up false ceiling (a whole of 5-8cm) a big problem? If patched already, will it be nice or ugly? My ID forgot to shift my cable, and in the end, I need to break a hole in the false ceiling to shift the cable.

To make 2 suspended shelves at the kitchen - top shelf use solid surface top, and bottom use laminate material. Measurements : 1) 300mm wide by 5 feet long solid surface top shelf - $280 2) 300mm wide by 5 feet long solid plywood bottom shelf (using laminate) - $150 I think my ID overcharged me.. How come 2 shelves are so expensive?

I did not see 9A. Instead I see 9B, and the other buttons are 20B, and 32B. Brand is Hager OK, lets count.. Living & Dining 18w x 2 x 12 = 432W Living - 12 PLL x 40W = 480W Dining Hanging Light - Not yet installed (5 halogen) Foyer 13w x2 x3 = 78W MBR 18W x2 + 13w x2 x 6 = 192W Total : 1182W + possible W for dining hanging light = assume 1,400 So is it 1,400W/230v = 6A (sounds ok what - its below 9A?) My ID says no need to rewire.. he say maybe change the bulbs, cos the bulb too high w, must check first..

It's the small MCB - the first one trip. But I din rem to see the no. on it. Not sure if its hot.. I need to check again. So what does this mean?? Meanwhile, I go and see again..

i got my ID to wire and install all lightning pts in my living room, master bed room, and dining area, and afterthat do false ceiling. strangely, after the false ceiling is up, and they install all the lights n switches, when i turn on all the lights in my home (means i turn on all the living room, and dining room lights), and if i further on my master bedroom lights, short circuit happens..! the circuit breaker will break! what does this mean? is it the electricain short-ct and never do a proper job? i think so.. i think he is lazy, and probably link too mnay wires to one pt, that's why too much power, so circuit will break, is it? im not too sure.. any one can advise? how to rectify this problem?

what is T8? is T8 energy saving? can u gimme the link to yr blog? my downlights tubes are those energy saving akira tubes.. is that cheap skate? or is it ok? only for PLC they give me osram tubes.

my false ceiling has a square coff light box, on each side is 2 4feet fl. light tube, so means 4 sides x 2 = 8 PLC lights. somehow, in the middle and at the two ends there are dark spots! to prevent this, i need to have 3 PLC lights instead, means 4 sides x 3 = 12 lights. each light is the 4feet PLC light my question is, can i dont hv the the 4feet light? maybe a 2 ft light will do, cos 2 ft maybe cheaper? the ID at first say i need 14 lights = means 4 PLC x 2 sides + 3 PLC x 2 sides. when i saw the electric boy, he says 12 is enough to make the dark spots disappear, but his electrician boss ask him to do 14 lights. (??? is the electrician boss and ID out to con me??) I know the electrican is out sourced. Also, for adjustment of the aircon cable - how much does this cost? I need to shift my aircon cable for about 5cm only, cos it clash with my fanfoil position.. and I think they charge for $40 for this. To shift aircon point @ master bedroom - $40 Supply & run 2nos. Speaker wire points including install - $150 To relocate main tel inlet point - $50 They say the main tel inlet point is a big problem, cos the place I need to shift is very far.. (?? is this rubbish??) i wan to ask is it most ID will provide an electrical layout plan - pointing out where the sockets, tel pts, scv pts are. my id nvr do all these. just verbal and scribbled onto the floor plan that is flooded with carpentry details, lighting pts details... etc..

its a 5room flat. yes, its 30 lights pts only - 11 fl tube for coff lights + 19 downlights only = 30 pts together.. somehow i feel its very expensive..

this is my charges for the electrical and suplpy of lights.. does it sound overpriced? Supply labour & materials to run 30nos. Lighting points for Living & master bedroom - $900 Supply & install 11nos. Fluorescent lights c/w switches - $275 Supply & install 19nos. PLC energy-saving downlights (square type with white frame) - $475 Supply & install 1no. Hood point, 1no. Double socket, change to 2nos. double sockets @ kitchen,shift sockets @ Living & master bedroom - $450

yes, but i dunno how much, cos my invoice only state the total price.... i cant rem how much it cost individually.

My dining lights My simple bedroom lights My simple kitchen room lights - 2x18W Hamburger lights as usual for the bathrooms & store room

Sharing the 3D pics.. i think the above colour combination, looks weird.. how shld i change it to look better? also my ID says these pics are not to specifications. is that the case? shldnt it be to specifications/ measurements (as near as possible, but not 100%)? another qn: shld i be going thru with my ID on the exact positioning of my down lights? or do u leave it to your ID to see how they wan to play with the positioning of the lights..?