lawry

I have not really come across anyone's tempered glass backing crack because of heat issues, though there are several glass hob shattering cases. If you're doubtful, can always use stainless steel backing, it looks quite good also.

Just yesterday's wanbao. 28 Mar 2010 http://blog.omy.sg/wbnews/

I saw this interesting headlines regarding some woman kneeling outside a renovation company as a protest for 4 hours. Anyone read the news and got the details?

Change your agent.

---OFF YOUR MAINS--- Preferably buy the same brand/model so that the configuration is the same, less confusing for you. Remove the panel and unscrew not more than 2 wires* at any one time. (If you unscrew all the 6 wires at the same time. You can't tell which ones are supply's, which is appliance's) Transfer the wires over to the new panels before you unscrew more wires. something like that. Once you are done, screw back the panel, put back the face plate and all. Finally .. It's a 10min job.

The back of the plate. Middle chunk with 4 holes. Top 2 holes LN wire (live red neutral black from main supply) Bottom 2 holes LN wire (live red neutral black from your appliance) Earth wires to those 2 donuts above. LED light (black wires) to the bottom 2 holes together with the appliance's wires. (Just in case anyone wants to DIY next time, you can refer to this or message me.

Some updates. Old photo, when it used to work .. Current photo, button stuck at ON position, can't switch to OFF position. Notice the LED light is dimmed as well? I saw the Legrand Mallia at Choo Chiang, quite nice, but unfortunately different color/style with my switch next to it. No choice, settle for MK again, but big rocker button this time. It's $6.40

First of all, why is there - Wrought Iron Grills (Dining/Utility) - White powder coated sliding window grills (Dining/Utility, Living & 3 bedroom ..) You will have 2 sets of grills at the dining/utility area?

Ermmm ok, I've not done a normal light switch before either. You made it sound quite easy, I guess it will be these few steps? Off the Electrical Mains. Remove face plate, Remove wires from face plate, Transfer all to new plate and done? I would want to change to another brand with bigger button or softer touch, the current small button is just hideous and hard to press. Something like that .

It's me again ~ Barely after my leaky sink drama, now my heater switch has decide to die as well, it's stuck in the on position with the led light on but my instant water is off.. I ripped out the cover and unscrewed the top plate, there seems to be some wires connected to the top plate, I didn't try to pry any further since I didn't off the mains electricity. Just want to know if it's possible or easy to just buy a new face plate and transfer the wires over or do I really need to get an electrician?

I've returned all the mails to CDP Even with "UPDATE YOUR EFFING DATABASE!!! PERSON MOVED" They still continue to send .....

Hob no silicon. Sink NEEDS silicon. I just repaired my sink because the old silicon worn off and it's leaking badly beneath. Depending on the color of your table top (mine's black), i bought black silicon and sealed up the whole thing, problem solved. If your silicon has got to be white or transparent, it's likely to turn green/black from mold, I'm not sure if those mold resistant silicon helps though.

I still receive their letters 2 years later. Some CDP ones, and there were 2 different names, possibly the previous previous owner.

I have a Hyflux and a Panasonic here. I prefer the panasonic. There are quite a few brands in the market, you have to see how much are the filters before you decide.

http://tuscanyridge.net/Issues.htm scroll to the bottom of the page. This should be the issue you are facing. It is possible to remove the toilet bowl to install the offset flange without damaging it.

Oh my goodness ... My living room is further in, after my dining room which is nearer to the entrance. All the trunking are covered by cornices, there's a built in carpentry in between the dining room/living room. I don't see how it can be done nicely???

I think he could have installed an offset flange if you prefer it closer to the wall? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/bath/pr...ange_offset.htm

Hi, I'm not sure what's the brand of the sink, but I bought it from ESH along Jalan Besar Rd. This is how it looks like from the top. The attached dustbin itself is an issue too (if you have one as well), water goes in from the gap ..) I sealed up the whole dustbin with aluminium tape entirely.

There's no silicon on the tap base, it's sitting on the sink surface. I think I know where the leaks are already. Will explain more in a later post and some possible remedies.

I was looking at ceramic sinks back then, but couldn't really find one with the right design/color, so end up getting SS.

If only there's $20 discount per wrong hole. I would have saved hundreds from all the holes added. The usual practice is to patch up the holes with some putty. Some do it nicely, some just smear it, you will know when it yellows in time.

You got it! Mystery solved. Water was seeping in from the area you mentioned all the way to below, another loosely done job. I gathered the black portion (rubber) is designed to reduce condensation, but ended up trapping water in it. Bad idea. The square sink I'm looking at has only one huge wide compartment, I already foresee those issues coming though I liked the clean cut design very much.

WC as in the sitting type? If there are tiles behind the cistern, they would definitely have to remove the toilet bowl before they can hack those tiles?? Although there's a way to remove the toilet bowl without damaging it. I know because there was something wrong with my installation and they uninstalled the whole thing before putting it back.

Same here, I reckoned there's no need to open those grills unless I intend to climb in and out of my windows. So I installed fixed grills for those windows along the corridor. It's so much flatter and slightly cheaper.

I've a serious sinking issue here, that's why I asked about the rough coating. http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...c=28014&hl= Most stainless steel sink comes un-coated or with a piece of rubber beneath. It's only at Bellari that I noticed the "rough coating" on the exterior coating of the sink, the salesperson claims that it helps to prevent condensation, sounds promising. I had the same apprehension with the sharp corners, looks like a nice place to gather dirt unless I've an extension hose coming out from the tap to flush it. The scratches cannot be helped, all shiny surfaces are prone to scratching.