lawry

Got question. Conceal only condo can do or HDB can do also?

Is there such a thing as blue color energy saving bulbs? I saw them in the fitness first in amk, it's not the shade that's giving out the blue hue, but the color of it comes from the bulbs itself, it looks like a energy saving one to me.

Whatever model or brand you are getting, take note. DO NOT BUY those with an attached dustbin like mine. -_- There's no rubber lining and water goes through it. Even there's a rubber lining, I'm not sure how long that will last. Don't make the same mistake as me, I took out the whole dustbin and seal up the cover using silicon sealant from beneath. Or else the cabinet below is always wet. http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...c=10727&hl= For sinks & taps, there's a stretch at both sides of Jalan Besar, Poh Joo, Chuan Heng, Bellari, Hoe Kee (not recommended) are there. If you are going there on weekday, do note that they all close before 6pm. HTHs

This is the half covered hood that I was talking about, don't exactly understand how a cooking hood works, was just worried that all the oily smoke might escape from the opening above because the 2 mini doors of the cabinet right above the hood was exceptionally oily. Worries unfounded it seems, thanks for your replies.

Thank you for the replies, so I assume it's pure aesthetics issues to raise it up to the ceiling? I'm asking this because mine is "half-covered" by the cabinet and my kitchen seems a bit oily even after I on the hood, thought it was not working well. Again, I will try to draw something later to illustrate the "half-covered" hood.

Granite please, I took solid surface just because it's cheaper by $200 and regretting it still ...

Quick sketch. ] Hood top end extended all the way to the ceiling, is this the standard way of installation? Hood dangling in mid air with top exposed, does it still function at max efficiency?

Anyone knows? How should I even describe this .. Cooking hoods, the top part of it where there's this big opening, must it reach the ceiling or it can dangle in mid air open ended? Will that affect the efficiency of the hood? I'll try to draw some pictures if you guys can't figure out what I'm saying.

I've just contacted my ID on this issue. (I was taking a while because I fly on and off often over the past few months, rarely at home for periods long enough to handle the issue.) When I asked about the door frame, her answer was, "That is the usual way we do it for every house". Add on "It's a metal door frame and it cannot be removed." Understood if I'm changing just the door, but I was renovating the entire house, removing an redundant door frame while full house renovation is ongoing is not an impossible issue. Why skip that? Anyway, she's dropping by to take a look next week. Wish me luck. She's like my only consolation out of the whole unpleasant renovation experience. At least I can still get her and she responses .. While on the other hand, my mum's nagging, you already moved in, you want to go through the dusty hacking and renovating all over again???

Hi enz/kastleknonfusion. The bifold door company can't do much, as the old frame would need to be removed. They only do installation, just like when people replace old toilet doors with bifold, they look for them. Perhaps they might help tear down the old frame, but like what sinner mentioned above, it will disturb the existing tiles. So it's more of a job of the contractor. I did full renovation for whole house, it should be settled by the contractor. I will give them a call soon.

happywheel, mine's Supreme AC5. Sorry, i don't have his contact anymore, but it all started from this guy at Courts Tampines (where IKEA is), there is a Supreme section within, he sent a rep down to my place to take measurements and a quotation on the spot. Tip : Get a quotation from a few IDs (grade/type) first, roughly know the market rate. Next, get the quote from Supreme, whatever price they give you (should be lower than your ID), tell them your ID gave the same rates for the same thing, why sub it to them? They will reduce on the spot. :P It's personal commission and sales figures to match after all. Next, tell you ID what rates you got from Supreme direct, if they are willing to match that, usually $600/800 cheaper, then it's theirs, or else remove item from quote. Tip 2 : I assume you are overlaying? Use these laminates for your STOREROOM as well if any, but get your ID to quote based on all hacking/all tiles price first, then tell them you don't want to hack storeroom, minus out the difference, savings around $300 odd. Because it's storeroom, does it matter if it's new tiles or laminates? If your place have no existing old tiles, then this doesn't apply.

Mine happened the same way within less than a month. Told my ID about it and her carpenter insist that it's just DIRTY and not rust. Told us to just wipe it off with a scrub pad.

I got $1700 from Supreme direct, kept the quotes from my ID, she quoted $2500. I bypassed her and did my own arrangements.

Sure, thanks!

Which reno company did you engage? I don't recommend white putty, especially if they just smear it on like that. Look at what they did with mine and you will understand. Within less than 2 months........ As for the difference in height for your table top, get them to find another piece of wood to level it up before they install the granite. This standard is ridiculous.

Before they install the hooks, I actually measured & marked spots on the wall with a pencil before they mount. But suay suay there were 2 extra hooks and I can't decide where to put, so he suggested this area where I have one hook for a face/hand towel. There wasn't a mark there since it's last minute decision, but never did I expect it to go so off like it. About the hooks, I asked my ID about it but she just shrug it off like it's not a big deal. I have yet to confront her about keeping the door frame, sad to say, I only realised it 2 days ago after so long.

Thanks, I just checked their website, they do have quite a number of different wheels. I think I will just drop by for a visit.

A preview of their nonchalance here. I know, this should be in a tblog since this is not really relevant to the topic. What I have here is 2 hooks, for hanging towels, Don't ask me why it's one up and the other down, it should be aligned.

On that eyesore doorframe, it's decided that it will be a bifold since day 1, weren't any other changes along the way, so there's no excuse for that. As for STOMP, it might be a bit too drastic. I'm holding back because my ID is basically quite an obliging and friendly lady, at least for most parts of it. She only got a bit anyhow towards the end when 95% of the payment is collected and 95% of the job is done. She still gets 80/100 for her efforts. I don't really want to get her into trouble. But the workers and their appalling standards/attitude is something else altogether ... Consumers should know what to expect and get what they are paying for, hence I do need to raise some issues here for knowledge sharing. What I have mentioned in the threads (grouting, doorframe) is just the tip of the iceberg, there are quite a few areas which I'm not satisfied with. In fact, I've withheld the last 5% of the payment till now unless they want to rectify the many outstanding issues. I'd be glad to keep that remaining 5% since I think I've overpaid for some of the terribly lousy workmanship. As for asking them to rectify ... Gosh, I can't imagine having to handle those people again ... I've tolerated nonsense like, just to name a few ~ asked to choose tiles even before I get to see any 3D graphics on color coordination in a room (tiles colors against wall colors and what goes for carpentry laminates). (There wasn't even any computer generated graphic design to speak of ... basically I think only IDs of interior design firms are capable of doing that, contractors are not) ~ towel hooks, one higher than the other *speechless* (Is there any excuse for that nonchalance??? I could have demanded to have that tile replaced and hole drilled again. Last 5%) ~ lousy paintjob all over my window frames (don't they tape up the areas they don't want to paint on? Clean up that mess, last 5%) ~ white grouting on gray tiles, areas that are in contact frequently will turn gray (dirty) eventually, while some parts remain white.. (why can't they use gray grouting as I requested?) ~ some black, some white, some grey groutings on black tiles due to retouch, (insisted that the packing says black when it's obviously white, redone, but it's still in a mess of white/gray/black) ~ cheapest parts used by default, no sense of aesthetics and class, I would be willing to pay if I knew my options. (Like a metal drainage hair trap against black tiles instead of a cheapo PVC white?) ~ holes drilled wrongly in cabinets and disgustingly/messily patched up with some white paste which turned yellow. ~ carpentry dimensions extended for $300, but not proportionate, the whole design skewed because there were 2 colors used. ~ kitchen hood not in the centre (I've another question with the installation of this hood as well, will raise it in another thread) I'll put up some photos to support my claims tomorrow, in fact I've been quite tempted to set up a tblog for a long time, but it's weird that I'm groaning about all the unsatisfactories in the blog...

I've been using this nice IKEA LUPPIO Swivel chair for 5 years and it's still in fairly good condition, at least the parts I'm sitting and leaning on. But the rubber on some of the wheels is falling apart, I am thinking of just replacing the wheels than to get a new chair. Anyone knows where I can buy these? IKEA is not selling this model anymore and they don't have anything similar...

I would think so too, it's only logical that it's removed before adding in another door. Can you imagine if I paid for a $800 frosted glass door as recommended and that stupid frame is still there?

Hi sinner, thanks for your input. Apologies for not making myself clear in my first post. What you have mentioned is a very possible scenario for those who only installed a Bifold door for their renovation, wall/floor tiles remained, hence the doorframe wasn't removed because hacking it would potentially disturb the existing tiles. But unforturnately it's not applicable in my case here, I had an overhaul. I've taken some photos, let the pictures speak for themselves. Kitchen toilet - no existing doorframe, floor/wall tiles all removed and replaced. Bifold door installed on plastered walls, sharp and clean lines. Bedroom toilet - old wall/floor tiles all removed and replaced. Bifold door resting on existing doorframe? Photo taken outside toilet entrance, beige portion is the old doorframe, bluish white is the bifold door, tiles are new, insides and kerb. Photo taken from inside the toilet, wall/floor tiles were replaced. Removing the doorframe in this case would only affect the wall finishing, which can be smoothen up by plastering, which I've opted for all walls in the entire house. The overlay laminates for the room would not be affected. The kerb made of new tiles would have to be extended, not an issue. Is there any reason for the doorframe to be there? I'm inclined to think that it's a case of "I can't be bothered sloppy job, so long I gave you a door and it can close can liao". An ID/contractor who has done several renovations wouldn't have possibly missed out that redundant doorframe compared to a first timer renovatee like me. It's just sad that I noticed it now and not while the renovation is ongoing when it can still be rectified, I've salvaged several potential mistakes along the way, but it's too bad that I missed this glaring one. I'm highlighting this issue for the benefit of those who has yet to renovate their house, this is something you might want to take note of in case your ID blatantly missed it.

If you are staying in a resale flat, and you asked for bifold doors for your MBR toilet & kitchen toilet renovation, please do me a favour, take a look at it, make a comparison and revert here. If you haven't done your renovation, please take note if you are using some Bgrade contractor. Is your old door frame still there? Think : What purpose does it serve? I had to DIY my kitchen toilet door grouting the other day.. *done* And I noticed something peculiar. My kitchen toilet bifold door is sitting on walls since there probably wasn't an old existing door frame before renovation, so the walls were plastered flat. Nice and clean lines and wider entrace (width 31inches) whereas my MBR toilet entrance is noticably narrower (27 inches) because the bifold door is fixed on the old door frame, the frames were much fatter since there's 2... and the white paint they used is turning yellow and there's a contrast with the door color (bluish white) I don't know if this is something which we have to point out during the renovation or it's a norm that bifold doors are installed that way or it's a special request which we have to pay extra or should it be common sense that the door frame be removed before installing the bifold door? What's yours like?

I have another problem with aircon -_- For aircon, how big should the gap between the air con and the wall be? I don't remember seeing this noticeable big gap at my old place. This gap like quite big??

I'm looking for one too! Was looking at Amway & Diamond. Haven't calculated the maintenance cost though. Was also looking at the tap attachment from OSIM, but it looks like a glorified $2 filter to me.. Anyone using any good water filters to recommend?