lancified
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Everything posted by lancified
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Hi Yeocando, Power: Convert the power point to 12V so that the LED can be powered up. You can use a direct power supply that accepts 230V and step down to 12V then connect directly to the LED, or use a adapter to step down. For myself, I added a few more conveniences + safety features - Power point --> 2 gang socket switch --> 12V adapter --> LED strip This way, I do not waste the power point since I have another spare socket and more importantly, an additional layer of fuse/protection so that IF (choy) one day the LED strip trips/burns, the damage stops at the adapter, or at most the 2gang socket. It will not affect my house electricity. Mounting: The LED strips come with 3M tape so it is easy to stick them at the back of the gypsum board. I further supported the LEDs by using clear tape across at around 20cm intervals. I installed the 2 gang socket by inserting it into one of the many pins that is sticking out of the cove frame. be sure to leave clearance so that u can install the cove cover without hitting the LEDs. Brightness: For myself, i choose 3528, 300led. 3528 refer to the size of each individual LED, the bigger the number, the brighter since the led is bigger while 300led means that in the whole span of 5M, there are 600 leds. so the leds are nearer and therefore brighter/more even. No, I did not use a diffuser, my leds are facing the wall, so that to create an ambience lighting, instead of a direct lighting effect. This is very similar to the L-box cove lighting that everyone uses for their living room. The LEDs are definitely strong enough to let you do your makeup, but it depends on how u position them too. I do have like 30cm left over of 3528/300LED warm white colour. If you wanna come over to my place, u can have it for free so that u can go home and test out if u like it. I'll post pictures tomorrow as I will be installing the same DIY for my MBR toilet, the previous for was the common toilet. Enjoy!
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My sink is going great! Absolutely no flex even when i pour boiling water on it. Mine is SUS304 like what u mentioned. Remember to ask for your 20% discount at Aldeco. Kitchen tap i bought it online. That tap is great for my sink since it is movable, like a shower hose and it does not get jammed since the retraction is angled downwards, while most other retractable taps are angled in a U-shape which is IMO, plainly stupid. eventually, friction inside + gravity will overcome the slider and cause it to jam. Refer to the previous post for the online shopping site.
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You can use 3M for plaster walls, just that when u take it out, the plaster will come off together since plaster is weak. I would personally prefer to drill.
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Hi all, I've posted this in another t-blog, so I'm copying it here to share knowledge on ceiling fans. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi, Just to advise a little on the KDK fan gap, by right it will not cause wobbling. The cone shape cover is just a cover for the ugly screws, mounting bracket and rod on the ceiling. Even without the cone cover, the fan should not wobble. For your case, the wobbling should be caused by 2 things: 1) too close the to beams. Blade fans "cut" through the air in 2 directions, down and up. This way, air will be pushed downwards. However, air that is on top of the blade, will be pushed upwards. When air hits the beam, it rebounds back and clashes with the upcoming air, which causes a mini turbulence and that forces the blade which is there to wobble. This shakes the middle pole and causes every other thing to wobble. 2) Weak mounting points. If you undo the cone cover, u can examine the mounting bracket and screw points. Use your hand to touch the screws to make sure that they are tight, and hold the bracket with both hands and try to shake it. The bracket SHOULD NOT move at all. If it does move, u have 2 choices - Use a shorter but similar diameter screw to replace the current screws, or deepen the screw hole by drilling higher so that the screw can be screwed all the way in. The bracket should be not moving once done. Also check on the rubber/metal U-shape holder than holds the centre rod of the ceiling fan. The metal should not have cracks and the rubber should not be torn. This rubber is to absorb small movements of the fan due to external forces such as wind. If this rubber has perish or torn, the fan will vibrate vigorously. The design of the fan makes a huge difference too. I don't understand the hype about KDK. When i look at the internal mechanics of the fan, it was built for performance. The motor powers the blades and also the centre rod, which explains why the cone cover is so big. This in turn gives excellent speed. The blades are angled more so that they cut steeper in air which explain why KDK fans produce stronger wind and has a further reach. However, these advantages have their disadvantages too. There are too many movable parts such as the blades, motor, rod. More movement = more vibration. Look at those KDK fans in coffee shops, the whole fan is swaying round and round at maximum speed. Also, there is only 1 safety catch. If the fan breaks apart, it will fall as the only safety catch is attached to the motor/rod only. For myself, I choose Elmark due to the low noise levels and additional safety mechanisms. If the motor/blade falls, it will be captured by the lower safety cover. If the rod falls, the default safety catch will hold it. The fan is metal, which is harder and have less flex at high speed = lesser vibrations. The blade angles are also adjusted to cut lesser air. This translate to lesser wind speed with lesser wind reach, but even at max speed, the fan is rock stable. The motor powers the blades ONLY so even in operation, u can put your hands at the bottom safety cover or the centre rod as they dont move at all. I find this very important cause I always got burn/cut by my old KDK fan when I was a child staying with my parents. Everytime I yawn and stretch my arms, I will need the first aid box. So for my new place, I dont want my future kids to have cuts all over too.
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Aiyo, that's bad. If you don't have quotation/schedule/payment/invoice signed off by both parties, you dont really have a case since it's words vs words. Go to court also not necessary win. The average acceptable delay is 1-2 weeks. If delay until 3 weeks, try to put your situation to him. Say you need to move in else you got no place to stay - this is caused by him since he was the one who promised delivering on week 6. Make him pay for your lodging. Normally once you do that, they will deliver before the 2nd week of delay so that they don't have to pay for your lodging. Wish you all the best!
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Hi, Just to advise a little on the KDK fan gap, by right it will not cause wobbling. The cone shape cover is just a cover for the ugly screws, mounting bracket and rod on the ceiling. Even without the cone cover, the fan should not wobble. For your case, the wobbling should be caused by 2 things: 1) too close the to beams. Blade fans "cut" through the air in 2 directions, down and up. This way, air will be pushed downwards. However, air that is on top of the blade, will be pushed upwards. When air hits the beam, it rebounds back and clashes with the upcoming air, which causes a mini turbulence and that forces the blade which is there to wobble. This shakes the middle pole and causes every other thing to wobble. 2) Weak mounting points. If you undo the cone cover, u can examine the mounting bracket and screw points. Use your hand to touch the screws to make sure that they are tight, and hold the bracket with both hands and try to shake it. The bracket SHOULD NOT move at all. If it does move, u have 2 choices - Use a shorter but similar diameter screw to replace the current screws, or deepen the screw hole by drilling higher so that the screw can be screwed all the way in. The bracket should be not moving once done. Also check on the rubber/metal U-shape holder than holds the centre rod of the ceiling fan. The metal should not have cracks and the rubber should not be torn. This rubber is to absorb small movements of the fan due to external forces such as wind. If this rubber has perish or torn, the fan will vibrate vigorously. The design of the fan makes a huge difference too. I don't understand the hype about KDK. When i look at the internal mechanics of the fan, it was built for performance. The motor powers the blades and also the centre rod, which explains why the cone cover is so big. This in turn gives excellent speed. The blades are angled more so that they cut steeper in air which explain why KDK fans produce stronger wind and has a further reach. However, these advantages have their disadvantages too. There are too many movable parts such as the blades, motor, rod. More movement = more vibration. Look at those KDK fans in coffee shops, the whole fan is swaying round and round at maximum speed. Also, there is only 1 safety catch. If the fan breaks apart, it will fall as the only safety catch is attached to the motor/rod only. For myself, I choose Elmark due to the low noise levels and additional safety mechanisms. If the motor/blade falls, it will be captured by the lower safety cover. If the rod falls, the default safety catch will hold it. The fan is metal, which is harder and have less flex at high speed = lesser vibrations. The blade angles are also adjusted to cut lesser air. This translate to lesser wind speed with lesser wind reach, but even at max speed, the fan is rock stable. The motor powers the blades ONLY so even in operation, u can put your hands at the bottom safety cover or the centre rod as they dont move at all. I find this very important cause I always got burn/cut by my old KDK fan when I was a child staying with my parents. Everytime I yawn and stretch my arms, I will need the first aid box. So for my new place, I dont want my future kids to have cuts all over too. Well, KDK is definitely excellent in durability. My old KDK fan lasted for more than 15 years, and we only clean it once a year. It will wobble, but it will continue to work
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Hi Charmainecc, Sorry to hear that your reno is not going as planned. The only way to proceed, given the fact that you have paid more than 1/2 of the reno cost, is to review all the documentation signed by both parties and find fault. Suing them wont help since you need money to even open a case to sue, and adding lawyer fees and legal fees will amount up to too much. I would suggest u look at the signed schedule/timetable, payment schedules and invoices/receipts. Look at the schedule and match it with the work done. Determine if the ID is late in his delivery. Next, look at the payment schedules and match with your invoices. Is your payment on-time or late? If your ID is late in delivery, and provided you are on-time or advance in your payments, you have a case. Soft approach: I would suggest you halt all payments, and inform your ID that you need to have a meeting with him. Ask him why works are delayed. If he really cannot do the work in time, ask him for a revised schedule. You might need to give in to his demands such as being late for 2weeks from the original handover date. This is better for both yourself and your ID and will probably make the ID like you more and thus do your place faster. Hard approach: If he does not agree to the soft approach, or he does not even want to meetup, you need to go hard on him. Be prepared that your reno will be indefinitely delayed. With all your documentation and proof that he is not delivering what was in the quotation and contract, head to CASE. They will be able to help you in such cases. Also, make use of social media, print media such as Straits Times, newpaper, today, as well as this forum and other similar forums to expose the ID and the company. Hopefully it will catch the eyes of other homeowners who had signed up with them to step forward and take action. You can also go directly to the boss of the company (provided your ID is not the boss) and lodge a complain and request for another ID. If they threaten to ask you to find another ID, ask them to take back their false ceilings and refund you completely. Give them $500 for the 3D drawings for work done. I wish you all the best.
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Finally! Official handover tonight at 7pm! Can't wait!
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I will list everything out here, lazy to PM one by one Lights: Tampoi Lighting Centre Sdn. Bhd No.2,4&6 Jalan Titiwangsa 3/1, Taman Tampoi Indah 81200 JB M1 Lighting No. 22 Jalan Indah Satu, Taman Bukit Indah, 79100 Nusajaya JB LED strips for mood lighting (local supplier, cheap and provide delivery): http://list.qoo10.sg/item/MEGA-SALE-70-DISCOUNT-3528-5050/407342594 Kitchen/bathroom accessories: Pro-Field Home & Living Sdn Bhd 5&7, Jalan Titiwangsa 3, Taman Tampoi Indah, 81200 Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia. Aldeco Living (higher quality bathroom/kitchen products) Go to http://www.aldeco.com.my/inquires/ for their branches addresses. Light in the box (for designer taps and faucets direct from China) http://www.lightinthebox.com/ Curtains and blinds: Combi roller blinds from korea http://list.qoo10.sg/item/ROLLER-BLIND-BLACKOUT-ROMAN-VENETIAN/406118278 AA Curtains (local supplier and installer, very knowledgeable, helped me choose a correct texture for my U-shape track) Aaron, 91006974 (say Eugene from sengkang recommend for discount) Electrical appliances: EJ @ AMK Mustafa centre (some things are really cheaper! just make sure to check for warranty, as some are export sets) Others: King Furnishing (sofa) Star furniture (dining table set) Posturecare Gallery (Bed with storage frame) IKEA (sideboard, makeup shelf, study tables and chairs - the chairs come with rubber wheels so it does not scratch my timber flooring)
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Thats the bad part, my ID is so busy with other projects that he is neglecting mine. So no handover date so far. Already late by 10 days. I have given my ID an ultimatum, if no handover by Thursday, I will deduct $100 per day off the last 10% payment. See what he says. The recent updates were all done by myself, as I can't sit and wait for the ID to do his work. Later on still going back to install handles for my sideboard, install side makeup shelf and maybe fix the common toilet shower tap selector which is damaged by his plumber.
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Hi Yeocando, I used t5 originally but realised the lights are not even, certain spots brighter than the rest. Also it is harder to mount as they are heavier. Eventually I changed to 3528 led strip warm white colour with water proofing. Very even lighting, easy to mount cause its very light, use double sided tape can liao. Its cheap, $20+ for 5 meters and uses a fraction of the electricity used by T5 tubes.
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My DIY mood lighting for common toilet, good for early mornings when u still feel sleepy
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2 common rooms with roller blinds from korea, way cheaper than buying locally.
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More updates! Dining area Living room
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Not really smooth sailing but im glad the delay is only 1weeks+. Just little touch up and some of my own DIY to complete and it will be done! I bought this bedside lamp at tampoi lighting in malaysia, really match the theme of my MBR, very classy yet cheap!
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More kitchen pictures!
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After 1 week of delay, finally my kitchen is fully done!
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Japanese Minimal/ Scandinavian Living On A Budget
lancified replied to wowach's topic in Reno t-Blog Chat
Lights make a huge difference to the feel of your house. If you are going to spend so much on your renovation, I highly suggest u increase your budget for lightings if you are buying them in Singapore. Or similarly, you can buy the same exact lightings from Malaysia at 1/3 of the price, this will easily reduce your spendings on lights at least by $1k. For myself, I opt for whole house LED downlights/bulbs/tubes/strips since it was within my budget when I purchased them in Malaysia instead of SG. -
Last few days to move in! Our bedside lamps are installed, looking very nice and hotel-ly
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Still managed to achieve many things today, leave well taken
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No la, that was my perfect plan. But as always, nothing is perfect Delivery of bedframe/mattress - Done Delivery of dining table / chairs - Done Delivery of Washing machine - Done Delivery of fridge - Done Replacement of hood (it was faulty when we opened the box, tecnogas customer service is quick and easy) - Sent back to factory, pending replacement by 30th Nov Installation of FH feature shoerack - late, factory not able to get it done yet. Expected Mon/tues Installation of make-up shelf - late, no power tools, expected tues/wed Final plumbing works - all done but kitchen tap, granite top hole was too small. Expected Mon/tues Installation of roller blinds (DIY w/ my ID) - late, no power tools Installation of Kitchen accessories - since showrack not ready, carpenter did not turn up Installation of all bathroom accessories - Done Mounting of both TVs - waiting for carpenter Installation of chandelier for dining area - Done! Replacing bi-fold door at kitchen (It was poorly installed, the vendor is coming back to repair/replace them) - Done Installation of exhaust fan at MBR toilet. - measurement taken, expected by 30th Nov Final plaster/paint touch up - delay till mon/tues after carpenter finish their work Final general cleaning - delay Final debris clearing - delay
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Final leg of renovation! Today: Installation of big mirror for MBR vanity counter. Clearing of debris and bulky items Delivery of mounting bracket Measuring of curtain Tomorrow: Delivery of bedframe/mattress Delivery of dining table / chairs Delivery of Washing machine Delivery of fridge Replacement of hood (it was faulty when we opened the box, tecnogas customer service is quick and easy) Installation of FH feature shoerack Installation of make-up shelf Final plumbing works Installation of roller blinds (DIY w/ my ID) Installation of Kitchen accessories Installation of all bathroom accessories Mounting of both TVs Installation of chandelier for dining area Replacing bi-fold door at kitchen (It was poorly installed, the vendor is coming back to repair/replace them) Installation of exhaust fan at MBR toilet. Final plaster/paint touch up Final general cleaning Final debris clearing HANDOVER
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47"! your living room must be very big! If u have the model number I think u can call the neighbouring shops to ask for price and see if they can match sitex prices. Really dread going to such shows due to the crowd.
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Bought the iron at EJ 2 days back. not sure if it's still available coz it's going for clearance.
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my best lobang today: Hitachi cordless steam iron for just $19.90 with full local warranty! Sofa arrived today