jumbopanther

Great. Hope you benefit and renovate yr Hse value for $!

Hi ehspro pls note, for the double tap, don't install too low, otherwise you will have problem placing a pail to collect water. I install mine abt 600~700 for front porch. Backyard slight higher only. Not too high, Too high also ugly.

No lah, we all learn together......

Haha, funny

Some more to show, seldom worn: $8 per piece Pls call/ SMS

ok, if you plan to hold frequent parties or barbecue, some also install a basin or sink outdoor at the corner of the front carporch so that guests need not have to go to the toilet just to wash their hands, after eating outdoor.

Yes. Are you putting at the front carporch?

Hi ehspro, glad that I can help.

On the topic of roof tiles, since it was being brought up, someone asked what would I do? Let me share my thought process how I came to the decision to replace them. For roof tiles, there are few options: 1) You can keep it as it is and don't do anything if it does not leak which one of my neighbour did when he renovated his house. This appeared to save a lot of $, but after he moved in, a few months later, the roof leaks, and he now got headache. Because all his furnitures, bed, wardrobes all in, by replacing roof, there will be lots of disturbance. By the way, his roof and mine are more than 25 years old. 2) If some parts are leaking, thinking of just replacing the defective parts, but can't be sure other parts will be defective soon, since these roof tiles are same 'age' and subject to the same weather conditions, if some parts are deteriorating, others will soon follow. 3) Change the entire roof to the full piece metal composite type of modern roof - nice and reliable, but very high cost, because the structures supporting it will need to be changed. The high cost killed the idea. These type of full piece metal composite roof will be suitable for new built where the new structures can be designed for it, not suited for A&A. 4)One of the cheapest method is retain the same roof, and apply coating. Cost is cheap, about 25%~30% when compared to replacing the entire roof with new clay type of roof. However, personally, i am of the opinion that coating - (where the tiles are washed, then sealer is applied, then about 2 layers of membrance is sprayed using power jet spray) will not last as long as replacing the new roof, obvious warranty is lesser,and now only rely on the top membrane coating to protect against sun and rain. OK if there is limited budget. But risk is surely higher than new roof. 5)Last but not least, total replacement, using clay type of roof. Since my previous was concrete roof, which had cracked, turned porous, and infected with fungus and algae, and throughout the years, the concrete had become 'brittle'. Replace with the proven clay roof, as it has high heat resistance, (and unlike metal, which can be noisy if rain falls,) clay is quite 'sound -proofing'. and can use back the same batten and truss, only when take out the old concrete tiles, then can check and replace those batten which were defective, cost is much controlled. And at the same time, replace the insulation and secure with a new wire mesh, + false ceiling later on, now we can sleep in peace...... Old roof: new roof:

Bro, if I share everything in one shot, I will occupy the whole forum lah, give others a chance, haha.

By main con, his quote cheaper than the other direct vendors. And he gave me quality German tiles.

Thanks, haha, but I have no intention to write a book, will just share using this T blog

Thank you for appreciating.

Thank you for yr kind words.

Hi all, if you notice, I am sharing quite a bit on some good practices for our fellow forummers whom I know many are 'new' to construction or renovation. Since you all have spent precious $ for renovation to transform yr ideal Hse, just wish to help you all in one way or another, make yr $ well spent and get things value for $. ( contractors or ID may not like it though, haha). Hope you all benefit.

During renovation, there will be lots of debris all over the place, the last thing you want is for the debris, like cements, bricks or stones to fall into the floor trap drain pipe or WC. Otherwise, you will experience Chokage that is very difficult and costly to clear. Since the plumber is usually one of the last to install the fittings, his drain pipe will always be left expose, remind and check that the plumber seal off these drain pipe openings temporarily to prevent debris falling in. Some use masking tape like this (good method but check regularly masking tape does not come off) Some use newspaper to seal like this (not so good method) Some more 'on', do a elbow turn (good method):

Some more to show, seldom worn: $8 per piece Pls call/ SMS

The stones and rocks could likely be from renovation debris, very common

Haha, bro, funny Lor. Then whole world knows my location. Kena stalked.

When I bought from waterworks then, they were having a big sale, clearing excess high end condo fittings (which they had bought excess for projects and the projects had completed). The price was really cheap, paid abt 30%-40% for branded taps. But now not sure still available or not. Suggest call them first to enquire

Haha, everyone so curious where is my location, ok pm you already

Sounds like good progress.

For tiling, there are different aspects of laying them: 1) Whether to be in-line (tile length to tile length side by side) or alternate (one tile edge to centre of another tile) -up to individual preference, but understand some tilers usually prefer alternate laying - because if the tiles are not really straight, alternate laying will not show the obvious. 2) Whether longer length is laid 'horizontally' from left to right or 'vertically' top to bottom - to me no hard and fast rule, up to individual preference also, but generally if it is a longer room, the longer length of tile will be laid the opposite so as to create a 'wider' room effect. 3) Another aspect which to me is more important, is the gradient, especially for outdoor tiling, if gradient is not done properly, you will end up with puddle of water stagnant at locations - big headache. When I first bought the house, before A&A, as it is on higher ground, the slope to the front entrance is previously quite steep, easy to slip and fall, especially on rainy days So 3 ways to mitigate this:(A) Select tiles that are rougher in surface; (B) Bring the beginning of slope line further in towards the house - hack down deeper; ©Lay the tiles horizontally instead of vertically - in order to create more tiles lines for frictional purpose. One more point to add, for slope ground, don't lay the longer length of tile following the slope, it will crack easily. See this photo that shows the beginning of slope line is further in from the column - and horizontal tiles start from here - Another view:the slope is more gentle now - no need to worry anymore that old folks or children slipping Hope the above clarifies and helpful.

Some more to show, seldom worn: $8 per piece Pls call/ SMS

Hi Pud, thank you for yr kind words. Just sharing what I know so that fellow forummers can benefit in one way or another, or at least become more informed. I had pm you something.