jumbopanther

Shifting of meter out: could likely be more than $5k, depending on existing condition, if involve road opening and lay new incoming, the cost could run very high. Just get prepared.

I had installed Joven horizontal unit in my current house and this same heater unit had served my whole family for the last 12 years.

For those using Joven water storage heater, pls note the heater comes in 2 types of heating element: either the 3kw type or the 1.5 kw type. I would suggest go for 3 kw type as it heats up the water much faster ( approx half the time taken for the 1.5 kw heater)

If you wish to install above false ceiling to hide from view, and if not yet installed, should be able to get them to change to horizontal type

Ok, do some free advertisement for Joven: Their tanks come mainly in 2 mounting type horizontal and vertical. Both can be used depending on the toilet size and ceiling height available. If want to install the heater within the false ceiling, recommend to use the horizontal type so can maintain higher toilet height as the diameter for horizontal tank is smaller than its length. Furthermore, understand their horizontal tanks have more different capacities than vertical ones. Horizontal Vertical

Hi ehspro, the Joven heater you bought is good brand. I suppose you bought the horizontal mounting type right?

Hi you are right, double glazed with yr description is generally better in insulation and sound to single glazed with film, but its cost will be higher also. Nevertheless, I have to be careful not to use too technical terms in this Reno forum for the benefits of the majority, otherwise no one will understand. Strictly speaking, technically, for glass, we should also talk about Low-Emissivity, low U value, reflectance, so on and so forth, but not my intention to turn this to a technical study. Whether double is better than single for sound and insulation, I leave it to forummers who will be smart to judge for themselves, also taking account into cost vs practicality. I suppose for general housing and residential use, the above will be sufficient. if forummers want to know more, usually they will ask and I will be glad to share also ( whether public or pm) I welcome more experts to share, of course, so we can learn.

Installing at Level 2 is the right location. Since this heater is sharing with L1 shower + basin tap + 2 sinks, then its position at Level 2 high level, will create a high static head, in layman term, means there is enough pressure because water flows from Level 2 to Level 1. If install at Level 1, then the water needs to flow back up to Level 2 shower and basin, this will possibly result in insufficient water pressure, especially if using rainshower.

Is the heater installed at Level 2?

Hi ehspro, 2-way switches (assume if connect correctly), means if any 1 of them is switched on, turns on the heater. So in short, 1) no need to turn on both switches to heat up the water for the 4 locations. 2) no, turn on both switches will not speed up the rate of heating. 3) turn on 1 is sufficient. Hope above clarifies.

Yes. Smart combination.

Following the topic on window, let me touch on 'Glass'. Sometimes, ID or contractor throw out different terms for glass and what do they actually mean? There are different terms referring to glass generally as follows: 1) single glaze: usually 6-10mm the, 1 plane that look like this: 2) double glaze: generally 12-14 mm thick, 2 pieces of glass stick together, look like this 3) tempered glass - means the glass are treated so that if breaks, it will not shred into sharp glass pieces but end up as fragmented pieces like 'ice' so will not cut so seriously, look like this: 4)laminated glass- the above piece is not only tempered but also laminated, such that a film holds the broken pieces of glass together and not 'rain down' So naturally, thicker the glass or tempered + laminated will be more ex and heavy too. Application: general rule ( also depend on individual) A) for windows- single glaze 6-8mm B) for staircase or full height glass wall:- double+ laminated+ tempered ( to comply with code 'barrier for fall' ) C) for door and shower; single glazed + tempered

Good for you, "My sweetlittlethings". Otherwise, you got to pay extra for specialist to dispose the material properly.

Today, I want to talk about buying old houses and demolish, re-built, renovate or change roof: On 29 Sep, I wrote a comment on fellow forummer "My Sweet Little Wajek House" about the risk and staying away from house demolition for fear of "abestos", my comments were: "Your ID is right if he is referring to asbestos roof. Some old houses still used roof with asbestos insulation, and I understand that asbestos has already been banned in Singapore because prolong inhalation of asbestos fibre can cause cancer. Therefore, these old roofing have to be discarded properly. My advice, if your hse has asbestos roof, try not to be around when they are being dismantled and disposed." and today, The Straits Times carried an article about this same danger also: See below. Basically, this abestos has been banned in Singapore since 1989, but in old houses, they could still be there, for eg, roof sheet, ceiling boards etc, because they are good insulation material, but was known to cause cancer. So in short, friends, please stay away when the contractors demolish your house, even you don't know whether they are there or not. Just to be safe.

Or hang this sign at the front gate:

Pls , $8 per piece

Great, you got it right! fold outwards.

Can also pay the domestic helper extra and get her to 'roam' around the house up and down, for patrolling duties.

Though I had not come to this stage of my construction yet, maybe I start to share first, in case some of you are in the midst of doing this. On the topic of folding doors, some may install these folding doors or 'big windows', but have not taken into consideration whether open inwards or outwards. By default, contractor will usually assume to open 'INWARD'. however, if you intend to install curtain (which usually will), then please note that you should install the folding doors OUTWARDS, otherwise, if open inwards, the curtains will come into the way of the folding doors: A sample photo (not my house): Another point to note, there are some 'big folding window' or full-open casement window'supplier in the market which are not intended to function as normal doors, so if you want to install it, please remind supplier that you intend to use it as a door, so must install a lockable door handle somewhere in the middle of the door. Otherwise, they may not install it, and the opening or closing/locking of the folding doors are right at the bottom. What happen is that every time, you enter and get out of the house, you will have to bend down. That's too troublesome

Hi Pud, well for security, so many options to consider: 1) dog- get one that really barks 2) grilles- yes (but looks ugly); no (but inviting trouble), if it is high floor, like 3rd sty, you can consider do without grilles, unless the thief is 'Spider-Man' 3) window that can lock- yes, and all windows using same lock and key system ( for convenience) otherwise, you will spend yr time hunting around which key for which window 4) intruder alarm system- door contacts and window contacts, that can set off alarm and also to link to SMS; as well as panic button/ duress button- so during emergency,go straight to one button and set off alarm; if need more security, can link to monitor company eg ADT, to monitor for you 24/7 5) CCTV camera- install those that can view and record day and night, location of cameras are important, cover all possible routes- link to Internet for remote viewing-if got budget- program video analytics- that can trigger SMS when rules are breached eg intrusion, climbing of fence, crossing of line etc, with VA, you no need to keep staring at the CCTV monitor, they will trigger alert to u auto. 6)motion lights for front and back porch - once movement, automatic lights on 7) learn 'martial art' or 'unarmed combat' 8) keep a baseball bat below the bed.... Sorry, am straying too far.....

Oh apology, should have highlighted earlier. Not only for window handles, even kitchen table top, must note not necessary standard 800 or 850, have to add on the base plinth, chinese wok height, soup pot height, plus the hob burner support, and also the 2 plate drainers on top of the sink, usually have 2 layers top and bottom, so must measure base on top layer, can't be too high, and also top cabinet, some say 700, some 750, some 800, don't just follow standard blindly, and also consider top cabinet handle, if install midway, surely cannot reach, consider top cabinet with opening grooves below the door type,( lower still manageable, but if too high, got to live with it for long time). When I design these, I usually have to take reference my wife height or the domestic helper height, because they are the ones spending most time on using these items -- to me, no need to follow standard, customize to suit our own needs more important Many things to consider..,,,,

On the topic of windows: mainly two types of window, casement (swing open)and sliding. So which is better? To each individual preference, some considerations: In terms of airflow: Generally, if you want maximum opening and to allow wind to flow in, choose casement type, for sliding, the last panel will still remain in place and therefore, maximum opening is still smaller than casement type. Aesthetically: the casement type generally appear to be neater ( when looking from the external) as all the window panes are installed on a single plane ( meaning single track), whereas for sliding, depending on window opening size, some could be 3 to 4 panels, installed on a wider track; when closed, you can see the windows not in one single plane alignment but staggered inwards. In terms of ease of opening and closing, sliding is better, because for casement swing open type, one needs to extend the arm and push out wide or pull back, if there are furnitures placed in front of the window, this will make opening and closing of the window more difficult. This issue is made worse if one is short and has big swing windows, and with the lever usually mounted in the centre (who says lever Must be at center??)which is too high relatively. Make opening & closing more difficult. For my case, had pre-arranged with window contractor to install the window without the levers first, then got my spouse to physically to test open and close the window and mark out the exact height which she is comfortable with (approx 1/3 position), only then the contractor fixed the levers. This showing myself opening:

Pls call $8 per piece

Many feature wall tiles are really nice, however not all are suitable to use anywhere, certain tiles are suitable for indoor and dry area only. Those rough and uneven wall tiles are 'eye- catchy' at first, but very high maintenance especially if they are installed outdoor. Today drove past some place and saw this: notice the blackish and badly stained area, become an eyesore Zoomed in So if you have a chance to review yr tiling, you may want to think twice of using this type of tiles outdoor or any wet area, unless prepare for high maintenance

Hi CRV48, my comments: Your requirements for "fast to install, durable and easy to maintain" are tough to achieve. (First and foremost, what is the flooring in living room now?) For fast to install, like Suyun has mentioned above, laminated flooring is the fastest, for living room, and 3 bedrooms, you can finish within 3 days for overlaying on existing. But I don't like the idea of overlaying over existing rotting parquet. Would you like it? For durable: you go for homogeneous tile for flooring (don't recommend use ceramic, as it is only a top layer coatinf, easy to chip off, ceramic suitable for walls only) For easy to maintain, well homogeneous tiles are ok, but for me who had use laminated flooring for more than 12 years in my current Hse, they are still as good. (But of course, homogenous still will be easier in terms of maintenance) So there you have it as above. If you asked what would I do? Well, I will remove all existing parquet ( not sure how bad, but if it is badly rotten, I wouldn't keep it, no matter how expensive it is), takes about 2-3 days, and lay with laminated flooring, 2-3 days, total about 6 days. For living room, I don't know what is existing, but I would prefer do homogenous tile as they are for long term. Depends on how big, laying for EM floor tiles will probably 5 days or less, depending on no. of contractors' workers These 5 days don't include hacking of existing.