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Ks Toh

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Everything posted by Ks Toh

  1. Ks Toh
    There is no simple answer to the question posed by lazyfatcat007. It really depends on the services she needs. Ideally, there should be network cables from the fibre termination point (TP) to every room, including the TV area. That will solve everything. Click here for a slightly long explanation. You can also relocate the TP to the TV point, but that might affect other services, depending on what you have. If the question is limited to just the use of the TV, then it depends on what kind of TV you are going to have. If you are just watching free-to-air TV channels (Channel 5, 8 etc), then no need to change any point. All you need is a digital TV receiver or a digital ready TV. According to original plan, the present signals carried via the SCV points or HDB TV points are supposed to be cut after this month. But I am sure this deadline will be extended (maybe it has already been extended) since I think probably 90% of Singaporeans are not aware of it! For an explanation on what is happening, you can read here. Free-to-air TV channels are broadcast in the UHF channels over the air. If you watch StarHub TV, then you are fine so long as there is a SCV point near your TV. Free-to-air TV channels will also be available from StarHub TV. StarHub TV is carried via SCV cables to the SCV point. StarHub TV is also available via the fibre network. If you choose this option, then follow the requirement for SingTel Mio TV. If you watch SingTel Mio TV, then your Mio TV box (which is next to your TV) needs to be cabled to your fibre router (next to your TP). This means either you need to have a network cable running from the TP to the TV point, or you need to relocate your TP to the TV area. Mio TV is carried via the fibre network. If your TV is a smart TV and you want the TV to be smart, then the TV needs to be connected to your network. You can use wireless but ideally, there should be a network cable plugged to the back of your TV. Same requirement if you have an Apple TV or Google Chromecast or equivalent, although many of them can work using WiFI too.
  2. Ks Toh
    It is common for contractors to create a base for the washing machine. For the same reason why kitchen cabinets normally have a base. Elevates the structure above the "wet" floor. There is also a base for my current washing machine and past ones, although I agree it is not so necessary these days unless you are the type who wets the floor. The footprint of almost all washing machines are almost standard, so there is no problem even if you change machines. It is odd for a refrigerator to have a base. I have never have one before. Refrigerators can be very heavy and you need to slide them in and out. If there is a base, it will be difficult. And they also come with different footprints, so if your base is too small, it may be a problem.
  3. Ks Toh
    Hi Princess, I PM you.
  4. Ks Toh
    Just curious. The pipes you have changed - seems like they are all not yours? The P trap would belong to the upstairs' WC or drainage outlet while the vertical pipe would be the building down pipe, I think.
  5. Ks Toh
    GST is payable on all goods brought into Singapore. If it is a day trip (away for less than 48 hrs), you are entitled to GST relief of $150. Anything above that will be taxable at 7%. It is best to get a receipt from the shop and declare GST if you exceed the limit. If you don't declare and you are caught, it can be a very expensive lesson.
  6. Ks Toh
    I don't have a brick wall but I think the layout for wall mounted TVs should be about the same. Your contractor appears to have provided a double 13A power point and SCV point next to the bracket. Presumably, he is thinking that when you mount your TV, the point and the wires will be hidden behind the TV. This is quite a good idea, provided the size of your TV will cover the points. However, if you do not wish to see exposed wires at this area, it is far more important to have a sufficient big "MRT tunnel" between the TV and the console. Something like what I did here. Depending on your equipment, there may be many, many wires from the console to the TV: AC power cable, AV or HDMI cables from VCR, DVD, Apple TV, StarHub/MIO TV etc. Even the SCV cable may be to your SCV box at the console before it goes to the TV. But it seems to be that your contractor has already provided a "MRT Tunnel". I see two round holes.
  7. Ks Toh
    Haha. I am a veteran of power trips, so hopefully I can share some information. However, I am not an expert in this area and my own power trip problem, which I documented in my blog, still remains unresolved. In fact, the power tripped again just now and I had dinner in near darkness. It will be useful if you can isolate the problem. If the trip is due to a faulty appliance or overloaded power point, you can rectify the problem yourself. If the trip is due to a short circuit in one of the circuits or some other reason, you better call the electrician. First, when the power trips, you go to the circuit breaker and switch off (pull down) the main and all the sub-switches (I don't know the exact term to use). You turn on (pull up) the main switch. Then one by one, you turn on the sub-switches. If the main switch trips when you turn on one of the sub-switches, then you know the problem lies with this particular circuit or the appliance connected to this circuit. Next, you turn off and unplug all the appliances connected to the circuit controlled by this sub-switch. With the sub-switch on, you turn on the appliance and light one by one. If it trips, then you know something is wrong with the particular light or appliance. Repair or replace this item. If the sub-switch trips even when no appliance is connected, then there is something wrong with the circuit. You need an electrician. If the trip happens only during rain, then it is likely due to water ingress somewhere, as what looprevil said. In my case, it trips when it rains. So, there is water ingress somewhere. Except I cannot figure out where. It is also possible that the trip is due to overloading. This can be dangerous. Please take some time to read my contribution here.
  8. Ks Toh
    What's missing from your kitchen top are some green plants! Do you want to stack your Bosch dryer over your dishwasher? Not sure if it can be done. Looks to me it can be done. If you want, I can give you my stacking kit. Details and Picture: http://www.renotalk.com/forum/topic/72983-wtg-dryer-stacking-kit-model-418m/?p=916480
  9. Ks Toh
    Hi, do you still want the stacking kit? If not, I will be throwing it away. You did not respond to my PM.
  10. Ks Toh
    Did you buy your ranger extender or router. I went to Sitex 2015 and bought the D-Link DAP-1665 for $89. Works great. Not too difficult to configure as this device is specially intended for this purpose. You can also buy a wireless router. But more difficult to configure since you need to set the router in "bridge mode". More expensive but you do get additional features e.g. 3 spare LAN ports on your router.
  11. Ks Toh
    Yeah. The table fits the washer and dryer underneath perfectly. Did not know they stopped selling it, until you mentioned. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/492299802992611093/
  12. Ks Toh
    How to Upload and Post to Forum using Mobile: Click Here
  13. Ks Toh
    Since you have a data point in your study, the best option should be to plug in a Range Extender there. Or plug in a Wireless Router in bridge mode. I suggest not to use Home Plugs unless you have no other option. Perhaps you want to go down to Sitex show at Expo this weekend. You can visit the D-Link booth. They can advise you what to get. The prices are cheap at the show.
  14. Ks Toh
    How about putting it flush against the window? But of course, make sure there are solid window grilles that are permanently locked.
  15. Ks Toh
    For those of you who are interested in IP Home Cameras, SITEX is now on till Sunday at the Singapore EXPO. The price of the D-Link DCS-942L has dropped to $99. I bought one more DCS-5222L ($159). Also bought one DNR-322L ($239) and one Western Digital 3TB Purple 3.5" SATA3 HDD (for the DNR-322L).
  16. Ks Toh
    Sure. I PM you my place.
  17. Ks Toh
    I did not realise the video is misleading. I think the Australian hood in the video already has a pre-fabricated top portion that leaves a gap between the exhaust vent and the cabinet. Your contractor probably will leave a small gap between the exhaust and the cabinet. There must be a place for the exhaust to go to. If the exhaust is completely sealed, whether because you put it totally flush against a cabinet, or you cover it with a aluminium foil, then I think your hood is as good as not in operation. It will not take in cooking fumes, because the outlet is blocked.
  18. Ks Toh
    What goes in must come out. So, there is definitely a 150 mm outlet at the top. From what I can read, since this slimline model is installed flush against the cabinet above it, you need to cut a hole in the cabinet for the exhaust vent and set aside the top cabinet (or at least one compartment) to allow the hot exhaust air to go there. The following video is for another brand but the method of installation should be similar.
  19. Ks Toh
    haha. I also made a mistake in my title. And up till now, I cannot find a way to correct it. So if you do find it, let me know.
  20. Ks Toh
    For those interested in repelling pests altogether, the shop sells a $197 device. I did not buy because I was told I needed one device per floor. And I was not sure if it really works. Anyway, the literature claims that "Electro-Motive Force Pest Repeller is very effective in controlling rats, mice, cockroaches, centipede, ants, termites, lizards and most other common pests."
  21. Ks Toh
    My sister told me this bottle from FairPrice supermarket works just as well.
  22. Ks Toh
    Clearing my storeroom. Giving away this unused dryer stacking kit. Self collect. Note: It is the box above the washing machine. Not the washing machine or the stainless steel table. (Had to say this because a friend thought I was giving away the stainless steel table)
  23. Ks Toh
    Hi yakult Just happened to see this post and thought I should clarify in case you make a mistake. Circulating air mode is the mode which everyone uses, save for isolated cases in landed properties where it is possible to vent the exhaust out of the kitchen or house. So almost all kitchen hoods installed (maybe >95%) operate in this manner. Most such hoods will come supplied with charcoal filter. In your case, Bosch sells them separately. Or maybe you chose a model which can also have venting out configuration, in which case the charcoal filter is needed only if you intend to use it in circulation mode. Hence they do not include it as standard item. But as what Changbp explained, what goes in must come out. There is a need for an opening (at the top of the hood) for the air sucked in (from the bottom) to come out. So, you WILL be using the vent at the top of the hood and you must provide for it. If the opening is at the protruding portion of the hood, no modification is needed as the air will come out from there. But if the opening is covered by the top cabinet, which looks like the case for your telescopic hood, then as what bykaraanne said, you need to create an opening to let the exhaust out, or just exhaust into some empty space in the cabinets. Finally, no amount of filters will be able to totally remove the grease. In fact, the charcoal filter removes the odour and not the grease. If you need more information, you can check my blog. I wrote about it in more detail.
  24. Ks Toh
    Daikin has always been more expensive, as far as I recall.
  25. Ks Toh
    Ants on my Roof Terrace
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