ken4228

after LH, i found a better ID from Idees Interior: Kelly. but in the end, i went solo and did everything on my own.

yamaha YSP has an 'optical in'. that's how i rigged my PS3 to it.

i've thought of this too. my fridge is 60cm wide and if placed at the corner, not only will it block the power sockets, the hob's heat may get to it too. i'm in the final stage of reno now. will transport my fridge over after it's done and see how it goes. really don't want to end up putting it in the yard. haiz....

asked them for quote before. dropped them as some items were really ridiculously priced. their package seems attractive though. but if u're planning to add things which are not included in the package, be prepared to kena chop.

that's what i thought too. but after the 60cm deep cabinet is up, puttung a fridge there seems to make it really smaller than it already is. might try putting it in the yard and see how it goes. hacking the windows and bifold door to the yard is an idea if u don't mind your clothes catching the cooking smell.

based on your floorplan, there's a chance that we might be in the same stack. u'll find that after the sink is put in, the space left really is that much compared to the drawing. these 3D artworks usually make your space looks much bigger than the final product. also, u'll sacrifice the top 2 louvers of your kitchen windows making your kitchen darker even in daytime. the cove lights looks nice though. btw, where do u plan to place your fridge?? i'm in a dilemma...

been using the yamaha YSP1000 almost daily for 6yrs now...

those butterfly plugs are not really suitable as the tv alone weighs 20kg. if i'm not mistaken these are more suitable for gypsum board partition.

Thank you for your advise yoongf. Here's a diagram of the ferrolite wall's structure. It is definitely not a hollow block wall. http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy124/ken4228/DrillPenetrationWallCS.jpg The sound insulation core is a load of BS from HDB coz when i drilled the wall for mounting of clothes hanger, the inside is hollow without any sign of 'sound insulating' material. My apologies for not making it clear on the OP... here's an interesting read: Ferrolite Wall

Hi all, While drilling on my new flat's bedroom walls for clothes hanger, i noticed that the internal walls are hollow. Googled and found out that it's actually ferrolite walls. Ferrolite wall: 2cm concrete sandwiched on both sides with a 3.5cm hollow space in between. My intention is to wall-mount TVs in every bedroom with the heaviest one (22kg) in the MBR. Can I still use normal concrete wall plugs for the brackets? If so, will the 2cm thick wall be able to withstand a 22kg 40" TV? In case anyone is wondering, my estate is Kim Tian Green. It is HDB's pilot project (guinea pig) for this new kind of wall which uses 20% less sand to erect. Anyone in Kim Tian Green wall-mount their TVs in the bedroom? If so, were there any issues and what kind of wall-plug is used?? Thanks for reading...

Hi all, While drilling on my new flat's bedroom walls for clothes hanger, i noticed that the internal walls are hollow. Googled and found out that it's actually ferrolite walls. Ferrolite wall: 2cm concrete sandwiched on both sides with a 3.5cm hollow space in between. My intention is to wall-mount TVs in every bedroom with the heaviest one (22kg) in the MBR. Can I still use normal concrete wall plugs for the brackets? If so, will the 2cm thick wall be able to withstand a 22kg 40" TV? In case anyone is wondering, my estate is Kim Tian Green. It is HDB's pilot project (guinea pig) for this new kind of wall which uses 20% less sand to erect. Anyone in Kim Tian Green wall-mount their TVs in the bedroom? If so, were there any issues and what kind of wall-plug is used?? Thanks for reading...

no, item 1 is correct. light pt 30 + installation 10 = 40. it's the normal practice. if u're asking him to change the switch/sockets on existing ones, he might charge u for installation fee unless it's those that are relocated or added power points. however, i believe most decent contractors out there will just do it FOC out of goodwill. i suggest that if your electrician is charging installation for changing of the existing gangs, better u DIY yourself. all u need is a test pen and ensure that the mains are off.

1) you're right, installation of downlights are priced on top of the cost of 'pulling' the new point. 2) my electrician did not charge me for the cost of switches and powerpoints (normal MK brand). Maybe you're opting for those designer types of fanciful switches??

enjoyed your t-blog! btw, i'm doing up my place at 127D also.

Hi Aron, Emailed you for a quotation. Please check and reply. Cheers.