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petetherock

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Everything posted by petetherock

  1. I can't put a link, but look up "pete's write" and search for Mesh.... Also it's best to add more lights and not re-use stuff like electricals, pipes and plumbing - save the pennies and pay a lot more later.. As I said before, you do need a builder to give you more advice.. that's what a good one must do even in the discussion phase. I had long conversations with my builder and talked to various ID too even though mine was largely an internal renovation... not even a A&A.
  2. Electrical should be 30-40k for such a large rewiring job. Make sure it's a licensed person. I had a very smart chap, who even helped with the internet fibre cable. He also labelled every power socket and did the same in the DB. Suggest you have a DB on each floor or at least on the three main floors...
  3. It takes around 8-10 years to break even and it’s not so easy but ask the sellers to take you through. As for 63a, this thread may help
  4. Laying gas pipes lines is expensive, depending on your area and if there are others who have done it next to your home previously. The cost will pay for many years of gas tanks. I agree with 63A. Most homes up to even a detached can survive with a 3 phase 63A. Way better than 100A single, which has costs every year. I can run a pool, a pond and all my aircons, plus my sound system with no issues in my home. A 35A supply for the electric hob will be useful. Plus another line for charging electric cars and one more for solar panels.
  5. IMO you take take a year to find something that suits you. So no harm looking .. do your finances first though and remember to budget 20% more than expected for renovations
  6. Sounds about right There’s some small variations depending on the size of your home. I used Rentokil
  7. Just reviewed them My oldest is coming to 9 years old .. https://peteswrite.blogspot.com/2020/03/haiku-fan-review-ii-mounting-fan-and.html?m=1
  8. IMO, whatever you do, remember that your builder needs some margin / fat. If you squeeze him everywhere, that's when the 'quality' suffers. Eg, when my tiler found the drainage wasn't ideal, he changed the floor and re-did the tilings in my bathroom by himself w/o hesitation. Also added a few plugs and repainted my floor cos wife was not happy with the parquet staining. If you have no margin, they won't be so eager to help... Something to consider...
  9. It was done by my builder during our renovations a year back.. The mains cable into my home needed to be relocated.
  10. Mine was a three phase 63a but the cable needed to be shifted so $$ For TS if your home is a single phase please get a three phase .. 63a will be fine for most homes.
  11. Just as a reference Shifting or changing the main power cable into a landed home will cost upward of $5000.. I had to redo mine..
  12. IMO, if you are buying for profit, then I'll say get a few condos in D10, live off the rental, which will be higher, or have higher appreciation.. The intangible factor is what a landed gives you vs any condo. The profit is nice, and there is some capital appreciation, but there are better ways to invest / get a better profit. Don't forget the opportunity costs of sinking those millions into a house. Even a 2.5% bond yield can match the capital yield these days.. You should re-assess why you want to buy a landed place. I didn't do a rebuilt, but I spent enough on renovations to make my place enjoyable to live in for at least a couple of decades. If spending 1.4mil is within your budget, and makes you enjoy that new home more, then do it for those reason. You can't really make back the reno money, even though there is some capital appreciation. I enjoy the space, the quietness and many more factors. YMMV
  13. +1 Some houses don't come with gates or a car entrance... you will need to talk to the authorities on whether you can do that...
  14. That's why I can't think of a legal way to move the lamp nor a good reason to... I know some lanes are very narrow, and cars have trouble turning into their own homes, so they 'makan' into the kerb, by cutting it off, but if there's a lamp post or some other object there, they can't.. but these are not legal ways to resolve it either. So when you buy a home, choose it after you observe how many cars are there at night and is it easy to get into your own home.
  15. Are you trying to recycle the SCV points for LAN access? There are devices on the market you can buy for this. cable TV is kaput now...
  16. Yep, don't rush.. one full year is a safer bet.. especially if there's a basement involved. Don't forget that there's a lot of rain at year end, and the roof need to be up so that the internal works / fittings won't be spoilt.
  17. As usual snoozee has given sound advice. I'm replying your pm here so others can chip in too and benefit: As he said, a tear down is a good place to begin, so you will need the full team. Cost wise, you have to be realistic what 950k can get.. Some contractors do the full works, or you can get an independent architect / ID, so they don't collude, but that means more to coordinate. They can answer all your questions and it's best to work with them. You can't go too cheap. With a lower budget, you may just want to get the builder to quote a package. Doing it by December is possible, if you are prompt in tile selection and critical decisions - it will be tight, but given the slower economic times, it may be possible unless your builder uses a bunch of workers who aren't able to work. As for a basement, the additional cost to look out for is plumbing. Since it's a new one, that will cost. If you intend to live there for a long time, eg 20 years, it's a good thing. I bought my own lights / sanitary fittings, but you need to coordinate the arrival with your builder. There's a light sale in May and November from Philips (if it happens this year).. and Econflo has sales in August typical, which covers the major brands. If you still need a builder, pm me again.
  18. I don’t think it’s an unreasonable quote.. gutting of the interior can cost around 300k depending on size and materials.. then 50-100 for the roof. The rest of the money for the extension... and don’t forget permits and design fees... it’s not a simple job..
  19. You can either work with a contractor or go to a place like Hafele / Blum and work with the kitchen experts directly.. they have their contractors too. Don't go for Ikea, their contractors are not so good and your savings are minimal.. A designer will obviously cost more - so go for them if you have the budget..
  20. I suggest you try lazada, ali or taobao instead and get a 220V for safety reasons..
  21. Look around the forum, see what others have done or used, and then talk to and shortlist about three to talk to in depth. They should be able to handle everything, even the auto-gate, so you only talk to one person. If you wish to get a designer / ID, they need to work with your builder. Otherwise you have to rely on whatever the builder is capable of doing for you.
  22. So are you saying if I add an additional floor, I don't need to reinforce? I've seen at least one house in the same row do so. Thanks
  23. The one nearer MRT sounds better but you should have a checklist that only you can fulfill properly Eg immediate surroundings also play a part Some ball park numbers - you really need to talk to builders instead of just asking in a forum 300k for a makeover add 150k to build one more floor Unless you change the interior and sewer layout then you need to pay more. All the best! 20 year old is perfectly fine but your builder needs to assess the actual condition
  24. Replied you.. BTW, it's not cheap and once you touch the roof, you will need permits and $$. At least the rain has stopped. All the best bro.
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