LionFlyer

Ah, but it is part of the kitchen cabinet, and happens to be at the sink area. I can't remove it without affecting the sink or the table top. This is stupid problem to have and more money down the drain.

Thanks all. Koori, unfortunately, it is not the door which has the wood worm. As you can see from the photo, the droppings are actually deposited from the top, meaning the frame of the kitchen top. I am currently treating the area with a chemical and see how it goes.

On the happy side, the major pieces of furniture and appliances has finally arrived! My sofa from Hommage My bedframe (looks like a skeleton now). Haven't bought the mattress. LG fridge (GR-M492GSH) Selection criteria was basically how many ticks (must be 4) plus the yearly energy consumption. This model seems to be a good balance between energy consumption as well as volume space. Samsung top loader (WA80F5S7, 8kg) Deliberated between top loader and front loader, but recent back injury skewed my decision to top load. Realised I am become old man, better go for practical option. Also, noticed top loader have improved tremendously in the areas of water saving as well as fabric protection

Thanks. I will probably wait until next month when I receive my bonus before replacing the cabinets. The damage to my wallet is really need a financial breather.

How much is it for the glass toilet door and where to get ah?

The dining table and TV console from Scanteak came around 4pm. Unfortunately, I found a unrelated problem. As I thought the condition of the kitchen cabinets was ok, I had decided to leave them for the time being to save cost. Instead, I notice this, which indicated that there is a woodworm infestation. Made quick call to Rentokil but they said that there is no effective way to removed them permanently and they advised me to redo the cabinets instead! Well, that's not going to happen so soon as that will blow my budget now. Probably do it in six months time or something. In the meanwhile, I went down to Sengkang's HomeFix shop to get woodworm chemical and spray. My concern more of whether it will spread, especially when the worm larve become mature and transform into beetle then lay more eggs. Hope this DIY fix can solve the problem. (not really sure, if Rentokil say got no hope...what could DIY do?)

Today took leave because my dining table and tv console from Scanteak is coming and the mirrors for the bathroom are being installed. Here is the mirrors being installed by the guys from ITTIBAA GLAZING ENTERPRISE Pte Ltd (http://www.framesandglass.com) The glue takes about 2 days to solidify and I was told not to remove the wooden support before then. The mirrors themselves were ordinary mirrors. I know some people say that after awhile, the glue will cause black patch on the mirror from behind. But in this case, there is a layer of laminate applied at the back of the mirrors specifically to prevent this "unwanted effect" from taking place. Total damage for the 2 x mirrors was around $470, which I thought was reasonable give their size.

Not uncommon for bomb shelter feature wall to have tic-tac door. But it is a second door. You open the tic-tac door first (which open outwards), then you open the bomb shelter door. I agree with the rest of your point. I also dunno how his ID can propose tic-tac door for the common toilet. TS should just ask the ID how.

I see, the feature wall extend to Bathroom 2 to make it seamless. But how would the door to the bathroom look like? Your common bathroom door will be open and close many times more than the bomb-shelter door and the design needs to cater for it and should be reliable. Is it a normal door with the feature wall grafted infront? Or using PVC bi-fold or glass? Also, unlike a TV feature wall, this will be installed at the walkway to the rooms and the chances of getting it damaged at some point is pretty high. As other people point out, it will also look cramp, especially if you do both sides of the wall to make it symmetrical (opposite to the bomb-shelter, bedroom 2 and 3). If you can live with this and you can afford it, then by all means, its your money.

For TV, can wait until May period to buy. This is when the previous year model is replaced by the current year model for most manufacturers. You can score a good discount for the previous year model as they will be clearing stock then.

I think you need to put the layout of your flat to let us see. Offhand, why do you need to go all the way until the common toilet? Usually people cover up the bomb-shelter door area. To go to the toilet and MBR seems excessive and it will be very expensive.

Anyone know where to find antique steamer trunks like the following?

The gap got fixed last week by the contractor. The aircon was serviced today and my furniture will arrive on Friday. Milestone!

Depends. If you don't have OpenNet at your new house now, if you sign up plan with the telco, they will subsidize the cost of the OpenNet installation. But I think to tear down the false ceiling in order to install OpenNet is just too extreme. Just ask your contractor for advice lor, whether they can run the trunking for you.

I was quoted $190 and $195 at two different shops. Go Balestier can find.

The OpenNet was fixed by the former owner and it cost $220 to relocated by OpenNet. If you are doing the false ceiling and you want the OpenNet fiber cable to run through it, you need to ask your contractor to provide flexible trunking with a string inside from the start point to the end point so that OpenNet people can pull the cable for you when they come down. Otherwise, if your false ceiling is already done, then too bad, they can't do anything bout it. My one was that case, and I run the cable along the skirting of the floor. The other alternative suggested by the OpenNet contractor is to do a simple OpenNet installation at any easily accessible place. Then ask your contractor to lay CAT5 cable to the point you want and this will be cheaper. The ONT is basically a fibre to ethernet converter anyway.

wow it looks very nice, how much is such a reno sia?

Yah, will ask contractor to seal. The previous owner also do wardrobe in same place and he used silicon to seal too.

For three of my rooms(around 420 sq ft), it cost me $800 dollars. I was quoted $600 by a third party contractor for anything less than 500 sq ft to re-varnish, but decided to save on the convenience on the scheduling and let me contract do it.

Bedroom.

Today the wardrobes were installed. My contractor was telling me that the wall was not even and is likely to have big gap for the wardrobe. Didn't know how bad it is, anyone have an idea how to fix this? I am tempted to just leave it as is.

The dining lights are installed electrical work is done. I was told that the wiring for the lights will straighten out after a while of tension. Wrapping up the plumbing. I have decided to get the mirrors from someone else so that's the last piece of work as for as the bathrooms are concerned. Quite happy because most of the work is done. The shoe cabinet is facing some delays due to my request for something special. But have decided to go ahead and install the wardrobes next week and to do the chemical wash because my furniture is arriving early April and I can't wait further.

Revarnished floor, using matte finishing to bring out the wood grain.

Nope. Changing the faceplates on the switches cost me just $240. The rest has to do with some rewiring for the bathroom and the living room. I didn't change any power plugs or the kitchen/storeroom switches

If you want, I can sell you my spare set of three lights (once I get them exchanged) for 100 bucks.