ben263

I am using Hilti TE2a cordless... Very powerful hammer action... I have got a few Bosch Drills works perfecly well too... Depending on what you really need... If you dun like exstentions all over the place... Hilti's the best choice... As for Batt Operated drivers, if dun need much torque, I suggest the taiwanese brands... small little things... But if you need torque, a makita will work very well http://www.makita.com.sg/subproducts.asp?id=1&prodID=41 (Model DF030DWE) http://www.hilti.com.sg/holsg/page/module/product/prca_catnavigation.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-386909 (Model TE2A)

MDF for the main and a thick plywood for the backing .... backing needs to be very strong If not partition also can... but backing still plywood... MDF after painting looks exactly like a wall...

just to let you know all premade office funiture are made of conpressed wood. if it's for the office it's ok not bad... but personally for home i will ask my carpenter to make the tables because can cater to my needs and measurements... as for chairs; it's still chairs at the end of the day unless you wanna buy those ergonomical chairs that costs a couple of thousands of dollars...

my house is setup with all CAT 6 utp LAN points. but before we do that what is your backbone? if it's 10/100 why waste the CAT. 6 cable? CAT 5E will suffice or may I say over kill... Also if you lan points are coming out from a 10/100 base t router whats the point... Before setting up lan points, the most important thing to make sure of is the backbone cable. If you are using Opennet fair enough. But any other than opennet; backbone like RG59 or RJ11 cables are kind of time wasting. As what we call it copper will always be copper.... My home setup: 1. Backbone Opennet 2. D-Link 8-port Gigabit Desktop switch X 2 (1000 Base T) 3. D-Link Extreme N Gigabit router (1000 Base T) 4. AMP NetConnect CAT 6 SL series 24port Patch Panel let me know if you need any help on networking

Bro, if i never guess wrongly you should be living around east coast area... changing elcb means change everything including the box, rccd and mcb (everything).... also changing the whole elcb the electrician also need to return you the old ones not take it with them. this ensures that they did the job properly. Sorry to say this but you seemed like kena conn le... My other question is whay you need to change the elcb? It looks perfectly fine to me unless there is a short within the old box which also means you need to change which ever that is shorted.... not everything.... Normally changing everything because you need more mcbs but it's still your preference....

my 3rm flat house uses: 1. LED strip and LED crystal (master) 2. LED strip (Kitchen) 3. LED Strip (Living) 4. Swarovski Crystal DL (toilet) 5. Normal PLC in Kid's room (direct lighting) 6. 6W Dimmable MR16 (picture light) I think changing to LED PLC also soon. Seriously all depends on your lighting needs. Whether direct or indirect lighting requirements.

T5 or T8 makes no difference..... holders are a must.... no fixing onto cove... If you were to see into a cove, you see the aluminium skeletons within them.... covers are not neccessary... just make sure that there are no dark spots.... basically the trick is to overlap the tubes to have an even effect.... my own home i use led strip lights.... more expensive but better effect and long term costs savings

bro... generally all cabling and aircon must NOT be consealed within any HDB flat... (unless originally done by HDB) so yes you will see the hugh ungly casings... but you can get the false ceiling guy to do a box up so it looks more like a wall then the ugly casing.

bro, no need to wait for hdb... Just ask your contractor to clean up and repaint the existing wooden frame so it will not rot then cover with marineply... very easy to diy also.... after make sure to silicon the sides....

ask the partition guys to do it.....

re-wiring generally takes 4 to 5 days.... I seriously mean rewiring as in ripping out everything and putting in new wires and ELCB box....

my brother's a music arranger.... so i have never heard of sound proofing below SGD100.00... not to put you down or anything.... because my brother's 1 room was sound proofed at more than 10s of thousands of dollars

my house have dimmable led mr16.... it's as good as the normal halogen bulb I am also using strip led for my hall's ceiling cove and kitchen... my hall's ceiling not bright because i have my ceiling painted grey but my kitchen's super bright.... just to share.....

on the practical side.... stainless steel is the best... reason is because if you would to drop any plates while washing, chances are they will not break as for solid suface sinks, even a small knock will break the plates.... (speaking from experience)

my first house did total suspension using fabricated angle bars. it looks good but the angle bars can be seen within the cabinet my current house uses a 6 inch fulcrum support which totally look suspended to me still looks nice and i have led rope lights below which works well for me.... seriously end result you should ask yourself is when you renovate, how often would you change concept....

bro, Whatever you do dun install MH light. Your toilet will be converted into a steam room. MH's got almost the spectrum of the sun so imagine the heat. Anyway my bath room install a Swaroski crystal downlight.... Nice ambience...

wah if you want something big then the sticker from diy shops cannot le... mainly because if you joint them, you will see a line... not nice de... the best i can think of is using veneer... not too cheap but best of the best... but unless you got a bit of carpentry experience it's gonna be pretty difficult to install

wah so fast break de....... anyway I know of this bran **** good... blum.... but abit expensive.... something like $3.50... but so far the best that I have ever tried....

how far away is your service yard. if 10 mtrs away does not make much of difference in water pressure. normally a good plumber just needs to play around with the piping size to get a proper pressure hope this helps...

Normally I would put the lights to the sides if you have false ceiling. centre of the room meaning when you lie down you will see the light direct. my master bedroom centre of the ceiling got just led ctrystal that doesnt give much light.. my light comes mainly from the cove below my platform and at my bedhead. with 2 more table lamp on my nightstands it's actually too bright even for studying. master bed room i like a warm feeling... not for brightness. but it's just my 2 cents worth ...

mr16 are direct AC... uses the same transformer. normally i would advise to change the transformer to a electronic transformer... there are a couple of brands of transformers that cannot be used in which i cannot put here... but also you have a existing dimmer for mr16? if yes dun expect it to dim because it'll flicker. so far I have a dimable mr16 led that does not flicker but very expensive around S$150.00.

seriously it's up to individual.... the fans best brands are kdk, elmark, tamco. if what you have said is true.... maybe it's due to the space and the doors or windows are opened so the circulation might not be consistant. A good ceiling fan since early 1960s is tamco...

LED strip now pretty cheap... Around 45 to 50 bucks per metre. My whole house also use led strip for cove and kitchen. The expensive 1 is the transformer. 1 switch means 1 transformer.... All my led i bought from a shop call innolux but they dun have showroom. It's a warehouse located in genting lane. you can call charlie 96188108 if you want but this guy only works after 2 pm.... heh

zencelo dimmer only sgd99 at choo jiang... anyone know how to connect a zencelo 2 way switch? just lets say there is location A and B. Apparantly when I on A; I can off from B but I cannot on from A again .... Werid.....