ben263

Yes if you think you want to do it... I would say go for it.... But I would advise against... due to the weighted load a plaster board can handle... and paster powder... But the end result still depends on yourself..... the false ceiling should be sealed up isn't it ?with exception of the "entry hole" how come there is dust ? anyway dust is part and parcel of storage ...u store in cupboard the cupboard also collect dust

lol... I had this issue initially... But I removed my gate.... I thought of using electronic lock for my main door but later realize that my gate is still using key to unlock and there is no electronic lock available for gate, i totally give up the idea.

seriously dont know..... if you've got friends that has a welding machine they sure can help... if not go to geylang bahru... alot of engineering companies there.... how much is it to fabricate this ?

[tried... not advisable.... due to dust and unless it's the old type of false ceiling structure.... wood.... because for my new place false ceiling comes standard , so i read from a magazine that the space inside the false ceiling can be utilised as a storage area , anyone has experience doing so ?

yale very standard ... 950 to 1000+ unless you get a EM lock... I think around 500 ++.... Deadbolt locks are expensive... no discount at all... unless made in PRC.... Hi, i need to change my main door lock. Looking for One touch Fingerprint Verification Method. Brand Yale or Sumsumg, any lobang? Thanks

comparing with the normal PLC, it's never be as bright..... Hi All, If my living room is 6m by 3.6m. If i were to install 10 x 8-9w LED downlights(PLC lookalike). Will this configuration be bright enough for a living room?

downlights meaning general lighting I would use 2 X 18w plc. my cove would be 5050 led indoor strip.... LED MR16 DL replaces halogen.... same kind of brightness.... so far normally what I have switched on are my LED strip lights.... My master does not have any downlights, all replaced by LED strip (indirect lighting) My kitchen only has 5Nos of 2X 18W PLC and i only swtiched on once in a while.. While my cooking area has LED strip which I constanly uses... Toilet i use a LED MR16 DL. That's bright enough... Seriously depending on what you really want to achieve.... I am living in a HDB Standard 3rm flat and so far I have yet to totally switch on all my PLC DLs. My whole house light colour is warm white... my parents conplain that it's too dark.... but in actual fact, they are brighter then the cool white colour... Got a headache here. So many types of downlights in the market, dunno which to buy. Need them in my balcony, living and dining. Balcony - 3.8M x 1.5 (2 points) Living - 6M x 3.8M (L box - 10 points plus cove lights) Dining - 4M x 3.5M (false ceiling - 4 points plus 1 hanging light) Went lighting.com.sg once. Pretty much like their Genie series FBG304 1x14W $33 each without ballast. Like the design and what I saw on the metre reading abt the power consumption difference. But I see so many people buying at least 2x13W, 2x18W or 2x14W. I wonder if I buy only 1x14W, it would be enough. Yesterday called them, they say the 1x14W is equivalent to 75W of traditional lighting?? Really?? If that is the case wouldnt one of such light be able to substitute 2 of those 2x18Wlights!! Sigh.. does tt mean i could have actually installed lesser lighting points? Unfortunately, I have already installed my lighting points based on the advice from 2 shops and electrician as above. But from what i read here, many people seems to be installing many lighting points as well. I hope to hear ur experience on your own installation or any advice on how you made your downlight choice. I would love to hear from the philips users and those who have initially considered it and subsequently bought something else..I read that not only philips has this type of w/o ballast but other brands too.. Also, does anyone here mix LED downlights with PLC/those using E27? My idea is to save more electrical bills BUT with the high price of the LED downlights and not being sure of the brightness, I am not prepared to change everything to LED...

call 93673311/eric.... He sell's and he'll advise you..... Hi guys, would like to know more about this RGB thingy... Was planning to install them on my feature wall as well as my false ceiling.. Where can i purchase them..? What are the things to take note when purchasing? Is it easy to install? Can DIY? What is the cost i'm looking at if i need 40 meters?

go ccm if you really buy alot.... then directly import from PRC.... my terms of alot would be at least 100 pcs.... if you need 10 ro 20 then buy off ccm.... Hi All.... care to share where did u get all ur T5 tubes? 4ft, 3ft, 2ft... and how much issit? i need quite a lot....

yes you do... it's easier for maintainence and safety.... My new 5-room flat has total 40 Amps Main Switch. If we install two inverter airconditioner systems, one is sys 4 (running current 11.11A), the other is sys 1 (running current 3.3A), the total current is under 15 Amp, can we link both system to the HDB single 20Amp Isolator in the air-con ledge? Or we need an electrician to install an additonal isolator, each system get a dedicated isolator? Someone told me each system may need one, but I check HDB Guidelines for Air-Conditioners Installation Works, cannot find this rule: http://www.hdb.gov.sg/fi10/fi10324p.nsf/w/HomeRenoGuidelinesAirCon?OpenDocument

Hi... Need to know if it's a concrete wall or mdf wall? If concrete, then take a small chisal and hammer to hack off at least a 2 inch square. then you'll see what is inside.... if it's water, then water will immediately leak..... In water cases, you'll have to buy epoxy putty to fill it in.... Make sure that the main water pipes have no more water if not you'll have a hard time filling it.... If it's others, then use stopping to fill off the hole... total time taken will be around 2 hours... What the title says. And please forgive me, I'm not a DIY expert, so a lot of this will be written using greenhorn expected terminology.. Me and my dad were putting up a mirror in my 1st level bathroom. We were screwing these metal things that screws go into, into the wall, and when one of them went in we encountered a bit of resistance. My dad stuck in a screwdriver and poked around and determined that it was wood. He took a screw and pushed it in a bit (no hammer), then put in the metal part we were screwing it initially and screwed it in. Near the end of this we heard a loud CRACK Now, this could have very well been the edge of a piece of wood.. but there is a bathroom upstairs, meaning there's pipes running through the walls, which divert the water to the sewers (I'm guessing, anyway). I went into the laundry room, right underneath this bathroom. There is a plastic pipe running up, at maybe right around the spot where we drilled the hole.. but right before it hits the ceiling it goes "into" the wall so it's hard to see if it continues going up or if it takes a different route. The upstairs bathroom's sink is at a different wall than the bathroom below, but under the sink you can see that the pipe goes in that direction. We have no idea how to check if we split a pipe open or not. My dad claims that he was sure that it was wood.. because it "felt" like wood. And it's not that I don't trust him, but it would really suck if it was a water pipe, cause then I'd end up with thousands of dollars worth of water damage. Tomorrow I'm going to stop by my neighbours. I live in a duplex - her apartment is basically a mirror copy of mine - save a couple minor details.. The thing is that her basement isn't finished (mine is), so I should be able to see the direction of the pipes with a bit more detail. I'm not sure if it's going to help but I might as well try. My dad also says that it's unlikely that they would have ran plastic water pipes right behind the sink of another bathroom - where mirrors usually go up. He said "that'd be stupid", but.. yeah, I don't buy that. The people who put up houses rush everything and I can see them not caring about a detail like that. ANd then the mirror that used to be there was glued onto the wall.. Mind you, it wasn't a type you could screw in, but.. maybe that's why they ended up going with one like that? Or do they usually do that cause it's easier? So what do you guys think? The metal piece we were screwing in wasn't that sharp, so I'm not even sure that it's possible that it'd go into a plastic pipe.. but before we screwed it in, my dad used a sharper screw to make an incision in the "wood". What options do I have? I don't have blueprints for the house.. Are there any tests I can run to determine if there's a plastic pipe there and if we've ruptured it? I don't really want to cut a hole in the wall just to check, that seems like overkill. Please give me some feedback so that I can go to sleep without this bothering me.

Hi, you'll need: 1. Very sharp penknife 2. Window cleaner (spray type) 3. Masking tape (2 inch) 4. Dow Corning silicon and gun (I prefer black because you will not see the mould) 5. Clean cloth 6. A lot of patience 7. News paper 1st: Cut/Scrap off the existing silicon (try to get as much as possible especially the corners and sides) 2nd: Clean off all residues 3rd: Make sure silicon area are extremely dry 4th: Use masking tape to tape up all the areas as close to the sides as possible (A lot of patience because the end result depends on your taping) 5th: Pump in the silicon sparingly 6th: spray the window cleaner onto the now wet silicon area. 7th: Use your fingers to go over the exccess and clean then onto the news paper. 8th: leave to dry 9th: After an hour tear off the masking tape... Hi, my solid surface sink area is in quite a sad state after 8 years of use.. some of the silicon are getting thinner.. realised some parts are also leaking into the cabinet below.. any DIY ideas to clean up this mess.. i regreted not tiling the sink area when i did up my reno years ago. I was thinking of buying some water proof silicon and just go over the existing lining :.. need some tips to do this nicely

do you need it longer or shorter? If an inch longer I can help..... if shorter.... you'll need to fabricate.... most fabrication i do is in geylang bahru... many "engineering" shops there... Some photos to share.

China is using 220V, Singapore's 230V, so should be ok. In fact most of the stuff we get from Singapore are also make-in China, I must well buy direct from China. Btw, anyone can recommend me: - the place to get laminate flooring - EVORICH Flooring HUB / Office: 21 Kim Chuan Terrace Singapore 537042 - the place to get teak wood and wooden cornices - Kelantan Lane - the place to get partime painter - DIY - The place to get paint - Geylang Lor 16 - the place to get toilet bowl and basin - Balestier... (Walk around you'll see it) Much appreciated!

you can bring the sample to gaylin at Bendemeer... they cam make to order.... anything that's rubber....

you are over reacting.... did you inform your painter to use oil sealer? if not then your painter did a great job in using the sealer 1st because sealer helps to keep the acrylic paint in good condition over the years.. also all painters hate to paint oil sealer... if yes, then your painter is just trying to save some costs to use any sealer that was left over from any previous jobs... lead is not any issue in singapore knowing our goverment sets strict rules for anything coming into our country... if its an issue to you... you should asked them to paint on wall sealer instead in which is water base.... hope the above helps..... Hi All I am currently doing some minor reno works for my house. One work is to re-paint the master bedroom (one side is brick wall and the other side is gypsum board). This is almost done where the wardrobe and bed frame have already been attached back to the wall. I have specified to use all Nippon Paints product. To my horror, I realised that the contractor paint a layer of oil-based sealer (not from Nippon) before painting the Nippon paint. I have 2 concerns here: - the Lead content in the sealer! I have looked at the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and this is not listed although the label on the paint can indicated the product contained Lead. So probably the Lead content is less than 1% or so and not required to be declared in the MSDS under the law. - the different brand oil-based sealer may not work well with the paint My main concern is the Lead. Should I be really concern and get this rectify or am I overreacting!? Fyi, I have young children in the home which is why I am very concerned. Thanks in advance for any response.

find the extreme corners in which will have abit of film... then peel it off with a pen knife... if the film breaks... then pour abit of thinner... that should sork.... i have similar issue. Anyone care to reply??

you need to do chipping (meaning small holes on the walls) to enable the cement's adhesiveness to be effective... I want to do tiles for my wash area wall, it is already painted. do I need to hack a bit before doing the tiles, or can I continue fixing the tiles on the painted wall?cud anyone plz suggest the right way plz?

kelantan lane.... the road towards sim lim tower.... when you turn left... it's directly around there... you will not miss the glass maker... Hi All, I wish to have a full wall mirror as my feature wall. Can anyone advice me of any contacts who does this type of work? Thank you.

High power LED basically are bright... the pros everyone should know is that it's the equavilent to a 50W MR16 halogen but at a 3 - 5 watt power consumption... the problem with the LED in the picture is that they need huge heat sinks so... not really a con but sometimes the size of the heat sink might not be to friendly to the placement ... but it's **** bright i believe.... I have got a 3.5W MR16 in my toilet in which is bright but the difference is that it covers an area around 4ft diameter... which particular or corner areas are not lit... compared to a 50W halogen... well anything as long as you save the electricity bills right.... cheers.... Thank you for informing me about that I am slow in finding such product. I am just sharing with others. I forget the technical words for this type of light but I just call it LED light. Hopefully, fellow forummer will find this type of LED light useful to them. Since you know this type of LED is in the market for years, I guess you have experience in this field. Will you kindly share the pro and con with us in this forum. Thank you.

for kitchen cabinet i suggest you use the 5050 led strip... they are bright... my own house also using this.... hi cookcpu... may i know where can i get those LEDs? do they come in daylight color or only warmwhite? tinking of getting those to fix up in my kitchen cabinet..

for old laminates.... this can be done but it's alot of work.... painting over it is not really ideal because the paint would most probably bloge... Nytoh wood door painting over it not an issue... you need to see if the existing paint has already covered most of the wood grains... if yes then you need to sand it down with a sander.... if not then you can just paint over it..... Hi all, How can this be done? Must it be via removing the original laminate and pasting a new one? Can it be painted over? Also, if I have nyatoh wood door (think colour is rosewood), how can I change its colour to a darker shade like walnut while retaining its wood grains? Thanks in advance.

[HI... this is not a new type of LED.... it's just the high power LED in which has been in the market for years.... I have found a new type of LED light that is much brighter than those LED light sold in Light shop. I have try a few type of LED light but most of them are not bright enough. Just to share with those thinking of changing to LED light for their whole house.