ashburn15

Usually main door comes as 1 set with door knob on the inside and the handle thingy on the outside. Just door knob dented dunno if u can find a compatible knob to swop with if not must change the whole thing. Dunno if can even take out just the door knob cause its a different system compared to normal room doors..

More of less the idea is there. Remember that the hole is found on the inside knob. Even if no key can use something thin and sharp (e.g. those mini screwdrivers for screwing specs). Once the knob is off, remove the collar and the screws will be exposed. Unscrew them and u can slide off the other side of the knob. Then turn to the edge of the door, unscrew there and the last piece should come off. It sounds comp;licated but its easy actually. Where u stay BTW?

Actually its quite easy lah. Can change it yourself. Wanna give it a try?

Anyway, just wanna find out from u guys. To install the lock in the pics above, the window/grille needs to be removed from the frame 1st right? Cause i noticed that drilling and riveting the bottom hole will be a problem as it will be blocked by the frame/track if u wanna install it without removal. Put too high also cannot Think its not easy to remove the window/grille from the frame too especially for those of us with old windows. Any solutions?

Just a side note guys and gals. Most ppl are able to force open windows and grilles because of the freeplay between the grille and the frame. This freeplay can be eliminated by putting stoppers/washers etc betwwen the side of your grille and the frame so that your grille is not able to move in any direction (especially left-right) once locked (not even a bit). But do remember that if u use rubber stoppers/washers they can be compressed so someone might still be able to force the freeplay. And do remember to make sure that there are no gaps between the grille/window and the frame too! This type of safety lock is a good way to eliminate the individual freeplay as it locks each panel together. I've seen a few different types in hardware shops around. Just make sure that whatever safety lock u use has a long enough locking-bar so that it is able to go deep into the other grille/window. This is important as the forward-backward freeplay of both windows/grilles can defeat this type of lock too if the locking bar is too short. (I've not tried the lock in the pics above yet so can't comment on them but looks good!) Just some general food for thot!

Yeah i had the same problem with my kitchen tile! Hard thick tile (7mm?), which was different from my bathroom tile. Anyway the triangle tile bit is not for all tiles, especially hard tiles like quarry tiles (don't ask me what that is cause i also don't know) For my case, after the initial try with the tile bit (which went in about 1-2mm only), i switched to a normal masonary bit in hammer mode all the way to the desired depth with no cracking. But generally for difficult drilling, there are 2 things u need to take note of: 1) Make sure your drill is set in the right direction (bit should be spinning clockwise). There've been times where i forgot to switch back the direction after using the drill for unscrewing. Most drill bits are designed for 1 direction only (clockwise) so this is very important! 2) A new drill bit helps as the old one might be worn out. 1/2 hour is way too long so something is wrong. So u can try again in perhaps the following order: 1) Use the Tile bit in drill mode for the initial drilling (to maybe about 2-3mm, then switch to..) 2) Masonary bit in drill mode (see if it goes in. If not..) 3) Masonary bit in hammer mode (start slowly and watch out for cracking) Do try in the above order and see if its effective. Of course as u move down the list the risk of cracking gets higher. As long as u use the tile bit for the initial puncture and then switch to a masonary bit, should be ok. I've heard of hard walls that need more powerful drills but for tiles the drill itself shouldn't be a problem!

Hi all. Anybody know where to get nice decorative screws or bolts in copper or brass colours? Or maybe a screw insert which u can screw on a decorative cover?

Sori bro but why do u want to off your compressor in the 1st place? If aircon is off then compressor won't be on what. Unless u want to save the standby power or maybe want it for restriction sake eg. for tenants/kids? Just curious.. Anyway for the timer problem, guess yours is connected directly to the mains and only have the on-off lever in between. Timer for this is a bit more tricky cause aircon uses 30Amps while usual household appliances use 15Amps (I'm also looking for a timer for my Storage Water Heater and its 30Amps also) So even if u had wall socket u can't use it (the aircon wall socket will be with round type pins cause 30 Amps, not rectangular like normal 15Amp plugs). Anyway, u can go for something like the Intermatic Timer which is supposed to be found at Homefix. But there are not many of these 30Amp timers which connect directly to appliances in the market and i doubt they're weatherproof if u intend to fix it outside your unit next to the compressor. Another way is to replace your current module with a timed module at your circuit breaker. This has to be done at your Main Circuit Breaker (which is usually located at the hall or kitchen and can be prone to tampering) but this type of timed modules are plenty in the market. Either way best is to get an electrician to do for u (what u wanted at the beginning) but at least now u know what will be happening Anyway once u find the solution, do let us know what u did eventually so that others may benefit!

Actually i'm thinking of changing to an instant water heater if i have to replace my current storage heater (which i eventually have to cause its rusting badly at the inlet/outlet). So the timer is just an interim measure. Of course there's the whole Storage vs Instant Water Heater debate i have to consider!

Hi guys. Thinking of fixing up a timer for my storage water heater to save electricity and need your valuable comments and opinions. Current Situation: MIL wakes up for work at 6am and wifey wakes up at 10am and both want their hot showers. So currently i've to leave my heater on from the previous nite before going to bed. Preference: Instead of being on the whole nite, if the heater can be on from say 5am to 10 am, it would be good. Of course would be better if its on only from 5-6am and then from 9-10am! Solution: Replace my current wall on-off switch outside the toilet with a programmable timer? So far have found 2: 1) Legrand Programmable Time Switch 67053 2) Intermatic Water Heater Time Switch WH21 Have yet to call up Legrand to see if (1) is available and i heard (2) is available at Homefix although seems like the wiring is more complicated and i need to fix it at my heater itself inside the toilet and not at the switch which is outside. And i'm no electrician so dunno if these 2 are suitable for my home's power supply and my heater. Anybody got any experience with these 2 products or other similar products or got any suggestions or ideas?

OK guys. I've installed my ceiling fan and here are my comments for those considering the Fanco FF707 - 54" Installation was smooth and no balancing was needed as there was no wobbling at all. Heard from the installation uncle that Fanco fans are pretty stable and usually need no balancing and have no wobbling even after a long time, unlike K*K fans. Noise from the fan is minimal even at full speed. U get the usual "wind" noise and a low hum from the fan motor but nothing that is totally loud or disturbing. The only thing that might be a concern is that when u on the fan/light or press the remote, every action gets a loud "beep" which hopefully will not wake your sleeping baby up (fingers crossed cause my baby is on the way!) Don't know if there's any way to turn the beeping off for silent remote operation... Wind is good and covers my 11x9ft MBR pretty well. I'm using it as a replacement for aircon and although u don't get the same comfort, the wind is sufficient for a good night's sleep once u get used to it. Only that it can be a bit noisy from outside if u open the window to aid in the ventilation (my unit is on the 2nd floor) but i guess that's part of not using aircon! Light from the unit is pretty bright. 2x23w (150w equivalent each) energy-saving Panasonic twisty daylight bulbs are used in the light kit. Not sure if these bulbs come standard with all units or vary from shop to shop. Anyway the frosted glass cover reduces the light a little bit but the remaining light is still very bright and is enough even for reading. I replaced my circular tube ceiling light and i must say that the fan's light is comparable or maybe even brighter than my old light! Turning on the fan from the main switch results in a default light on/fan off configuration regardless of the last mode of the fan/light. U then use the remote to turn on the fan and switch off the light after that. Do take note that once u turn off the main switch, it takes about 2-3 secs for it to reset to the default light on/fan off mode. The black remote supplied comes with light, Fan High, Medium, Low and 2hr timer in thin horizontal buttons. The text placing is a bit odd (far above the corresponding button) and u end up pressing the wrong button at times but u get used to it once u memorize the button position. I believe the remote uses Radio Frequency (RF) so u can place it any way u like and do not need to point the remote at the fan and it even works 2 rooms away for me! Range wise its great but do check for interference and operating frequency if u have other RF devices (e.g car/gate remotes etc not Infra Red(IR) type which u point at your device like tv remote etc)and this includes other fans (especially if your other fans are from another brand). Not to worry usually all will have different frequencies but its good to check! Overall satisfied with the Fanco FF707 and hope it gives me years and years of faithful service with no problems!

Bro, is it true that these "hamburger" type of lights use 2 of the normal twister/straight kind of compact fluorescent bulb under the cover? They don't use the round tube like ceiling lights? Know of any light kits that use the round tube?

How about Mustaffa? Not sure if cheaper than elsewhere but i find their electricals are usually reasonably priced..

Use a Tile/Glass drill bit in drill mode and once u have drilled thru the tile, then switch to a masonary drill bit in hammer mode to deepen the hole to the desired depth to fit your wall plug. Using the tile bit all the way is more difficult and will spoil the bit..

Talking about fans, anybody know the difference between Crestar's Rainlite and Skylite Series? Both have wooden and acrylic blades. Their website is blank under "More Details"...