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Hi Yoongf Thank you for your advice and link. I appreciate your help. My contractor has agreed to open up the downstairs' false ceiling to investigate this coming Wednesday. To re-do the downstairs' false ceiling for the master toilet and maid toilet the quotation given to downstairs' owner has been reduced from $1200 to $500. Downstairs' owner sms me to pay the $500. I replied, "No." Am I right? (Assuming the cost of re-doing my master toilet floor and maid toilet floor comes up to $6000, can I ask downstairs to pay? I doubt I can ask. My contractor has said he will re-do any necessary work in my unit for free.) My friend, living in another condo, told me that she has to pay 100% of the cost for changing the pipe in her kitchen (according to Singapore law) which leaks and causes damage to the unit below her unit. My condo manager said if the downstairs false ceiling is open up and a pipe is found leaking and if that pipe serves my unit, I have to pay 100% to change or repair it. He gave the example of the U pipe linking my floor trap to the straight pipe which serves all units in the same stack. He further explained that if I don't pay, downstairs can do something to stop usage of that pipe and then I can't run water down my floor trap. Could you please advise me where to read up for info on this matter or where to get advice? Thank you.

Hi Yoongf Thank you for your advice. You gave me plenty of ideas. Contractor did not describe to me the colour of the water nor the intensity of the leak. I bought and renovated my unit about one year ago. The condo is about 12 years old. I changed all my water pipes, air-con pipes and electrical wires when I renovated my unit. Although I lived in my present house for one year already, I have used the master toilet shower room only 3 times so far, hardly used the sink, and used the WC at night only. I washed the floor once a fortnight. We use the common toilet nearly all the time. Yesterday, I went down to level 10 to look at the ceiling of the master toilet and the maid toilet. Master toilet: 80% of the ceiling was stained, very bad stains, brown and dark brown in colour. There was a tiny hole near the centre of the toilet false ceiling. To my non-professional eyes, I think the stain started many years ago, probably 3 or 5 years ago. I think it is likely that the level 10's water heater leaks or their pipe leaks and thus cause water to drip down the hole from the centre of their false ceiling. When I was there, there was no water dripping down. Level 10 owner said their ceiling was very awful, needed to change. However, they would not pay a single cent. My contractor said from the 2 ft square opening he could not see clearly where the water comes from. He needs to take down the false ceiling, at least half of it to acertain the cause of the water leak. Contractor thinks another possible cause is water running down the wire from the roof; if this is the case, it will be management's problem. I forgot to ask contractor what wire he was referring to. I said I will not allow any hacking up of my house unless I see for myself and am convinced that the water is from my house. During the renovation of my unit one year ago, I closely supervised the work daily, and witnessed that waterproofing for all wet areas were properly done. Can anyone enlighten me: 1) If my toilet floor waterproofing or my air-con pipe is the cause, who should pay for doing up level 10's false ceiling? ( My contractor will do the water proofing and re-lay the air-con pipe in my master toilet for free.) 2) If the cause is level 10's pipe which leaks, who should pay to change level 10's pipe? Maid's Toilet: 1) In level 10's maid's toilet, when one enters the toilet, on the left side 2 inch away from the door, the false ceiling joining the outside wall has a semi-circle dark stain. Every original unit will have the maid's sink, pipes, tap and shower head there. However, I have shifted my sink, tap, pipes and shower head to the right wall. My left wall is blank. I am at my wit's end. It could not be caused by rain water coming in from outside because the stain is a nice semi-circle. What could be the cause? Could anyone please help here. The condo management's contractor said, "Water stains the level 10's false ceiling. Level 10's water cannot run up to stain its own false ceiling. The water must come from upstairs, level 11. Level 11 must re-do the water-proofing." My contractor suspects that level 10's pipe leaks. If it is correct, who should pay for changing level 10's pipe? 2) Above the WC, there was stain on the ceiling. Another headache! What could be the likely cause, please? I would be grateful for any help.

Hi Morganwu Thank you for the advice. Will do that tomorrow.

Please help enlighten me on what could be the possible causes of the following trouble: I live on the 11th floor of a condo. My neighbour living on the floor below me, 10th floor, has water dripping down from the false ceiling of her master bedroom toilet. Water was dripping down from the centre of the toilet, on raining and sunny days. The water could NOT come from other units because: 1) directly on top of her master bedroom toilet is my toilet (the design layout is the same for the 10th and 11th floor) 2) on 2 sides of her toilet, are bedrooms 3) on the third side is the passage to the bedrooms 4) on the fourth side is the outside of the house So the water has to come from my unit. To investigate where the water came from: 1) I locked up my master bedroom toilet and did not use the toilet at all for 6 weeks already. 2) I also stopped using the air conditioners for my whole house for 6 weeks already. After 6 weeks, Water is still dripping from my neighbour's master bedroom toilet false ceiling. My contractor went to the 10th floor unit to investigate. I suggested that a possible cause is the 10th floor's leaking water heater or leaking air conditioner pipe. My contractor said "No, those 2 things are Not the cause." My contractor also said he might hack up my master bedroom toilet floor until the water proofing level. My existing air conditioner pipe is laid below the water proofing. He said he would add more water proofing material and raise my air-conditioner pipe to be above the water proofing. He would do the work in my house for free because he was the contractor renovating my house. My house was renovated for just one year ago" I really do not know what to do? I am not willing to have my floor hacked up and re-tiled unless the cause is from my house. Anyone has any idea, please enlighten me. Thanks.

Hi Bro Another cup of coffee for you! Please recommend the models of the Fanco fans you think would suit my needs. Thanks.

Hi Bro Could you please pm me your contacts for Fanco fans? I am looking for fans for my bedrooms (50 inch) and living room (55 inch). I prefer simple, clean design, with remote control, acrylic blades, quiet and windy. Could you please recommend one or two brands and models if possible. Thanks. I have seen Crestar, Windpress model CSL 05 ( 48 inch, $260) and CSL 06 (54 inch, $280). I would appreciate it if you would like to comment on these 2 models for my living and bedrooms. Any idea where can I buy fans at cheaper prices? Thanks. Many cups of coffee lining up for you!

Could anyone advise me, please? I am renovating my house, an old executive condo, bought recently. I would change my 3 bedroom doors and their frames. I would also change my main entrance, fire-proof door and the frame. The floor has already been hacked. I would have marble flooring for the living n dining rooms. The marble is not laid yet. I am keeping the parquet flooring in the 3 bedrooms. What I am very worried about is this: 1) Should the door frames be installed first, then lay the cement screed on the floor in the living and dining rooms? The marble slaps will later be laid on the cement screed. 2)Or should the cement screed be laid first, then install the door frames? Could you please advise me? What are the advantages and disadvantages of taking option 1 or 2? I will appreciate your advice. Thanks.

Could anyone advise me, please? I am renovating my house, an old executive condo, bought recently. I would change my 3 bedroom doors and their frames. I would also change my main entrance door and the frame. The floor has already been hacked. I would have marble flooring for the living n dining rooms. The marble is not laid yet. I am keeping the parquet flooring in the 3 bedrooms. What I am very worried about is this: 1) Should the door frames be installed first, then lay the cement screed on the floor in the living and dining rooms? The marble slaps will later be laid on the cement screed. 2)Or should the cement screed be laid first, then install the door frames? Could you please advise me? What are the advantages and disadvantages of taking option 1 or 2? I will appreciate your advice. Thanks.

Hi Neubie Sorry to request you to explain to me further after you have given a very detailed explanation. My house is under renovation now. The electrician has installed a conduit from my TV area to the telephone box outside my unit. He has also installed 2 double power points (normal type), an SCV point and a telephone point at the same TV area. You mentioned, "their scope of works is to run the necessary fiber cable into your premises and install the TP at a location where there is spare 13A power supply." Do I need a 13A power point at my TV area for OpenNet? Please advise. I would like to have the OpenNet for the TV and for using my laptop or desktop. I am not IT, or electrical savvy

Yesterday, 08:49 AM mae29 wrote: Tiler Ah Lim told me that my ID had asked him to re-do the floor trap at the kitchen which is now an open space (for my garden), as the original drainage system done by JTC some 30 years ago did not come with the collar (sleeve?). I will take a picture and explain later. Yesterday, 08:47 PM mae wrote: The floor trap at the mini 'garden area' with missing collar, detected by my ID. Never crossed my mind that I would lift up the floor trap and see what is missing below it. The most I would be checking is whether the water will get choked or not, without knowledge on such a thing....Thumbs Up to my ID Mae, congratulations! You have a responsible and reliable ID, and an excellent tiler. Both of them will make your house reno much easier. Mae, where did you buy the collar for installation in your kitchen floor trap? What about the floor traps in the toilets? Are they similarly without collars and need to be fitted with collars? You are very busy and excited, right?

Hi Dexufto Congratulations! Your house reno is completed. You have turned an empty house into a beautiful, cosy love nest to live, love and laugh with your dear wtb. And, the make-over was a great, exciting, successful journey for you. Inspite of the busy schedule, you are able to go to JB, and also keep up this T-Blog. Pei fu, pei fu, ni.

Hi mkl22 & manutd1972 Thanks a million times for your detailed explanation which I need for my understanding. Really appreciate it. My apology for replying the much needed posts now, as stamina and time simply did not permit me to do so earlier . The materials that will be used for the air-con installation are: Insulation - armaflex 3/4 inch Copper pipe -G22 Drainage pipe 16mm. Will it be better to use higher grade materials for air-con installation in a house? What are they? My thanks.

mae29 Posted Yesterday, 09:35 AM My old aircon brand is 'Carrier system 4'....and I recalled replacing some parts within the 1st month after we moved in. For past 10 years, I have changed more than 4 compressors! mae29 Posted Yesterday, 09:32 AM Confirmed that the newspapers were twisted and wrapped the pipings.......it is very obvious from the picture where old newpapers were used. It is disgusting that such bad work ethics were practised on unsuspecting, trusting customers. Mae29, it is very kind of you to share with us your discovery. I am renovating my house and will be installing air-con by Imperial Distributors Pte Ltd next week. I am keeping my fingers crossed that the job will be well done and the air-con will not give me troubles in future. I will be installing: 1 set Mitsubishi single split air-con, non-invertor, 30,000BTU, mu-d30vc/ms-d30vc; 1 set Daikin non-invertor system 2 with 2 fancoils of 12,000btu & 9,000btu and 1 set Mitsubishi inverter single split fancoil 12,000btu. R22. (This is the only air-con that will be often used.) Thus, I will have 3 compressors on a ledge outside my house and 4 fancoils in my house. The air-con were recommended to me by Aron Putt, the company's salesman. My concerns are as follows: 1. Last week the company's rep (If I remember correctly, his name is Sam.) came to my house for a site survey prior to installation. I will be installing false ceiling for the whole house. The air-con ledge is outside the house and therefore is exposed. All the piping will be concealed. Sam recommended that inside the house, I do NOT use trunking for the insulation and copper pipes. The reason is the insulation and the copper pipes will be squeezed inside the trunking, thus will be compressed. Therefore it is NO GOOD, and ... NO GOOD ...NO GOOD... I can't really remember well what is NO GOOD now. The bottom line is: it is NO GOOD to have trunking inside the house since I have false ceiling. 2. Today, I met up with Aron. He recommended that inside the house, I do NOT use trunking for the insulation and copper pipes. Instead have the insulation and copper pipes hung down from the concrete ceiling by dog chains or metal chains, ie suspended in between the concrete ceiling and the false ceiling. Outside the house, have trunking to the 3 compressors which will be located on a ledge outside the house. The reason given is: outside, in the open, it is cooler. Inside the house, since I have false ceiling, it is hotter above the false ceiling. The gas (If I remember correctly.) running in the copper pipes, from a cooler area (from the condensor outside the house) to a hotter area ( above the false ceiling is hotter) is NO GOOD. There will be water condensation. There will be a higher chance for the air-con to get spoilt. Life span of air-con will be reduced. 2 people give me 2 different reasons for 1 objective. I am very puzzled. Could anyone please help to enlighten me? I looked at the house. The previous owner had trunking all the way from the 3 compressors (located on the ledge outside the house) to the 4 fan coils (inside the house). The trunking was above the false ceiling and the piping were all concealed. It is a 12-year-old house and in fact the air-conditioners are still giving out cold air. Should I or shoud I not have trunking? Should I or shoud I not have trunking? Should I or shoud I not have trunking? :help: I will trek the performance of my air-conditioners going forward, and post in Renotalk regularly to share with fellow forumers.

dexufto : Dec 2 2010, 01:06pm - Laminates installation Dexufto, your floor laminates installation looks very good. The floor looks spacious, neat and very pleasing. Looks like after your house renovation is done, you will be qualified to be a good ID or Main Contractor with low-priced lobangs.

Please advise me. Is the quotation from my electrician expensive for concealed installation? Are items 12,13 & 14 too expensive? Thanks. S/N DESCRIPTION QTY UNIT PRICE AMOUNT 1 Lighting point 40 no. $40.00 $1,600.00 2 Install lighting point 53 no. $10.00 $530.00 3 Ceiling fan point 4 no. $40.00 $160.00 4 Install ceiling fan point 4 no. $20.00 $80.00 5 Wall fan point 2 no. $40.00 $80.00 6 Install wall fan point 2 no. $15.00 $30.00 7 Exhaust fan point 2 no. $40.00 $80.00 8 Install exhaust fan point 2 no. $15.00 $30.00 9 Single 13AMP power point 9 no. $80.00 $720.00 10 Double 13AMP power point 13 no. $90.00 $1,170.00 11 Single 15AMP power point 1 no. $85.00 $85.00 12 Oven power point 1 no. $110.00 $110.00 13 Cooker hob power point 1 no. $110.00 $110.00 14 Cooker hood power point 1 no. $110.00 $110.00 15 Water heater point 2 no. $120.00 $240.00 16 20AMP aircon isolator 1 no. $180.00 $180.00 17 32AMP aircon isolator 2 no. $250.00 $500.00 18 Install door bell & door bell point 1 no. $70.00 $70.00 19 Telephone point 2 no. $60.00 $120.00 20 SCV point 5 no. $95.00 $475.00 TOTAL SUM : $6,480.00