w7_lee

Hope someone will find it useful. Mine is a resale and previous occupant placed mats in the common bathroom that traps water. Guess they don't clean often, so when the water evaporates, it leaves behind limescale. I have tried different stuff (on & off) on this issue for the past 9 years; vinegar, baking soda, bleach, HCL. They probably work for some stains but not those in my bathroom. Recently work is slower and decided to give it another go. If don't work, may renovate it. Recent tries was HG Professional limescale remover and acid that removes cement. I think the HG brand is probably more suitable for taps, sinks, bathtubs. It did nothing to my stains. The acid works great on the grout lines but not on the tiles. Since the chemicals don't work, I decide to go back and try more primitive methods.... SANDPAPER. Had some leftover fine grit sandpaper (1200cw) from past projects and give it a go on the tiles. The sandpaper I use is waterproof and I cut them into thumb/finger size. Wet them and start sanding on the stains. Need to replace with new sandpaper frequently . Use a damp cloth to wipe off the stains that came off. I am quite happy with the results; pictures attach.

Happen to replace my parent's 28 year wall socket today. If you have not figure it out, pictures for your reference.

What you heard is correct, hanging rods (and brackets)are sold in most hardware stores, unless you specially wants the want in the link.

You can use the black insulation foam. It comes with double side tape on one side. It'll not make noise but will deteriorate and will absorb water (get soak). Polyurethane foam can try art shop or Popular (I think they sell) but be careful it done fly off and hurt someone below.

I have a similar problem in one of the room. Mine was because too much is packed into a tracking that was too small, so the insulation was compressed too much, the wet air reach the cold pipe easily and condense. Almost like your 3rd picture. Done by the previous owner. End up I remove the trucking cover, re-insulate the sections that was badly compressed, wrap the new foam insulation with insulation tape. And left them expose. Yes, it is an eye soar but no more condensation. Planning to change to large trucking when I have to replace the AC again (maybe in the next 5 years).

Since your sink & counter top is installed, I would just take the necessary dimension and go buy a new tap that fits. Necessary dimensions are (1) the diameter of hole and (2) distance from edge of hole to counter top. IMHO, your contractor is not professional.

Yes, it is possible. Your master toilet should be using a mixer (hot & cool) tap for the shower. With instant heater, only need to branch out from the cool water pipe to the instant heater. If will be your choice if you want to disconnect the hot water pipe (from the gas heater). But with instant heater, normally pressure is lower, so if you are using rain shower, not likely is going to work anymore.

Probably the electrician who install it provided just sufficient cable length to get his job done. I had a similar problem with my hall light switch (also just below the DB). I was able to re-do it myself. But my take is: for u to ask this question here, best you get a qualified electrician to re-do it.

snoozee is right. Better to replace the complete valve. On my first leak, I only had to replace the seal (white rubber O ring in your picture). It work fine for a couple of years and leak again. So I change the seal again but it still leak. I guess the quarter valve has worn off. Since it was 7 years old, I replace with an exact model. There is a general provision shop at Bedok North 85 market that sells the valve but I am not sure if it fits. You can bring along and give it a try. I saw 2 different size.

My bathroom is using a different design but for yours, there should be a small set screw behind the stem of the on/off lever (black arrow). You will need an allen key to loosen it (half or 1 turn). Then you can remove the on/off lever. The collar (if I call it correctly, yellow arrow) should be screwed on. You can hold the tap firmly with one hand and use the other hand to grip the collar & the turn the collar counter-clockwise to loosen it. The valve will be expose once the collar is removed. You will need a spanner to loosen the valve from the rest of the tap. Good luck. Just for your info, I also replaced my bathroom Pozzi tap last August. It was leaking again and it was not the O ring but thru' the valve itself. Since the tap had scratches (after 8 years), I decided to get a new exact replacement. It think it cost $60.

Over the weekend, notice the $40+ tap is leaking (water dripping when closed) again, so it lasted for about 3.5 years.

Since it's after renovation and you already tried cleaning and it still don't come off, get the contractor to make good. I don't think the varnish will hide the powder stains. But if you need to do it yourself, you probably need to use a fine sand paper to remove the stains first, then apply the varnish. You should test at a not obvious location first.

Orangy is correct. The main valve should be below your unit's water meter. It looks to me the rubber seal in the bottom faucets is damage, so even though it is closed, water still seep thru the valve, past the top faucet (just below the heater), thru' the heater & out the shower head. The rubber seal is a wear & tear part, with usage, it will wear off (same applies to the taps of kitchen & bathroom sink). The valve in the faucet can be replace but you will need to close the water mains, remove the on/off handle of the faucet to get to valve mechanism. Then bring the valve to hardware shop and get a replacement. Your valve might look like the below (at least mine does) but I have seen 2 different length, so having the sample to compare is better. Since the lower faucet that you are using is not an expensive type, it would make more sense to replace the complete faucet.

The rubber strip might be too long. You should check & make sure it is not scrapping the floor/track. If it is, use a pen knife & cut off a few millimeters. Like RobinHo0d suggest, push it back against the glass. If it does not stay in place, a little super glue at the end should do the job.

It can be done but will have to use wire casing (which will be expose).