neubie

Just before lunch the top and bottom cabinets are up... and also the U-trap pipe cabinet up... note the floating cabinet does not sit onto the floor, for reasons of water attacking wood when washing kitchen floor. also, the bottommost shelf is removable should clearing of chokage of the u-trap be required... after lunch hob and sink cutout done...

Carpenter's recommendation He recommended "Casa Soft" brand of anti-slam hinges... slimmer than Blum, more stealth than Samsung Irex, the damper is hidden inside the hinge body, also has quick-release mechanism to remove the door w/o unscrewing the hinges .... he used all of them for every cabinet door... should also be available from excelhw... Next is the 168 silicone sealant he recommended... cost twice as much as normal ones, but if u read carefully, it has anti-fungal compounds with extra silicone as binder, so it's recommended for all sealing applications including wet areas like basin/wall interfaces...

A fine example of how str8 the hdb ceilings are...

now my LR floor-to-false-ceiling is about 2.2m high. i did just that. as i extended the higher LR flooring into the kitchen, they have to either use foam or cement to top up on the lower kitchen flooring.

My carpenter is very frenly one, i asked him about those newer hdb flats, he oso say those walls are not perfect, even for prefab ones, either more than 90deg or less than that one.... but the kdk 60" works wonders even at slowest speed, but quite noisy (air turbulence noise) when at the highest speed, but i doubt i will ever go anywhere more than medium speed ;p ...

yes, cheaper than EJ. is the shop at veerasamy road?

Standard height is 6", but there is a 3" drop at the original kitchen/LR demarcation, so the LR L-box has to accomodate this additional drop (final almost 9"height). The Philips downlight has a mounting height of 120mm, but stripping off the wire harness, can cut down to approx 100mm

Drawer basket.... no soft-closing ones... This 4 drawers are got Blum-ed... End caps of the drawer.. Shelving to box up the U-trap Carpenter remarked that some areas in the kitchen are not perpendicular, eg kitchen wall not 90deg to low-wall, so got to cut away some timber to accomodate this... Dexufto please take note, instruct your contractor/ID to tell their tiler to take reference from one datum edge and start building outwards....HDB design is really screwed...

Carpenter arrived today... New protection paper rolled out... Barang laid out.... Laminated board Shoe cabinet

ya, you are not the only one saying downlight overkill in the living area... initially i was oso having second thoughts on this, 3-a-side would be sufficient, rearranging the remaining 2 at the shorter side of both ends, but electrician said the conduits run was too short and can't extend that far, so carry on with the 4-a-side downlights lor.... but ok la, since there's no light in between, so the illumination is slightly above average... but the brightness still lose out to my 2 bedrooms!!! 4 cove lights + 5 DL turned on is even brighter than daytime natural lighting just a note, some of the 3rm have a floor-to-ceiling height of 95" (2.4m), so mounting ceiling fans is best directly bolted to the ceiling, not any false ceiling...

Today is acid cleaning the whole unit... not really to my standard, still gotta DIY to scrub-clean the kitchen walls/floors and cabinet cement base (tomorrow will be carpentry day ) , also the MBR window grilles are reused back and was not cleaned at all, so spend more time in cleaning up the grilles. also, casement windows are still dirty and rough when pushed open/closed, sand stuck inside the friction stays after some intensive area-cleaning, time to test-run the bathroom/WC. as i'm used to my parents' 5-rm toilets, doing my first big biz there feels claustrophobic bathroom was a consolation though, as space is still more than sufficient to pick up soap w/o banging my butt/head onto the taps.... but water pressure seems weak, not as enjoyable as before. ... got to bring a spanner and see if the mains tap is maxed out... if so then time to complain to PUB liao...anyone can advise if PUB will entertain low water pressure??? Kitchen Living room Wooden main doors look ok when closed, but look like sh!t when open... so LLST, gotta get a replacement door... Post-it notes pasted all over the shop indicate areas need to clean/sanded/touchup/sealed

if waking up at night walking towards the mirrored living room for a pee or drink doesn't scare the sh!t out of urself, then by all means, go ahead

Finally I have lights!!! Living Room MBR DB connected and hot...

Meanwhile the iron-grilles were done wrongly, had initially agreed with my con to install casement-type irongrilles, so stopped the installation for windows-grilles while letting them continue with the main gate and bifold doors... Break for lunch....

Round hook for the 60" KDK Motor assembly with safety wire attached... Done, but the canopy cover is slightly slanted...need to see what can be done.... looks a bit low, can touch the blades with my hands extended....

Today is a busy day... electricians came to install lightings, switches, fan, heater, SCV, cat5e patch panels... irongrille guys came to install bifold doors and window & main-gate grilles... Sifu taking string measurements on downlight position... Cutting thru the false ceiling....lotsa dust... Chop chop completed all downlights... Living Room Dining area MBR

wow, looks like expensive for a 3rm...

the 15A switch or 20A isolator is not often turned on/off like any lightswitch, so what arcing/sparking one speaks of? compressor does not turn on immediately upon switching on the 15A/isolator......unless the CP states otherwise, can still use wor.... depending on the placement of the mains switch, if the main switch is to be installed outdoors, then of cos the 20A isolator is used as it is more weatherproof (IP55). if not use 15A roundpin for indoors. so your statement about condo and hdb apt is not true. each type has got its own use.....for me, i wouldn't want a big ugly isolator to be installed indoors at my MBR....

ok. as long there is black and white copy of both parties signed on the OTP, it is a legally binding liao... check with the seller party if he is still intent on backing out.....if so, you can consult your lawyer to seek legal advise against them....

one of my toshiba (only outdoor condenser unit is MIJ hor) indoor FCU (FCU is thai made) died shortly after one year plus, found the receiver unit (which receives the remote control signals) spoilt and paid $140 including parts ($90) and labor/transport ($50) to replace... the toshiba-carrier technician told me if u know what failed, can just go to their spare part ctr and buy and DIY repair on your own... FCU also depends on installation one... also depending on how the indoor unit is mounted, sometimes there maybe cracking noise, due to thermal expansion/contraction of the FCU chassis or have some rattling noise due to plastic louvres resonating with the running blower motor...

if u are taking bank loan, the first instalment will not take place until few weeks after 2nd appt is completed. you shd not accept any form of cash payment at all. verbal agreement no count. you shd remain firm in the first place. pay 5k, both parties sign OTP and submit to hdb, and maintain zero contact with each party, and wait for the 2nd appt. by accepting the 1k, this may put u in a disadvantageous position to dispute, since by giving u 1k, you may not fulfil the minimum sum required for OTP, hence the resale transaction may be aborted prematurely....good luck.

Yup, that is under rectification.... that's the problem with HDB design, wall corners are neither straight, cantilever beams neither level oso....grrrr.... especially when the colors are mainly light, any gaps will be very eyesore....

well said.... that's why i always believe, price != value but price = perceived value

Best to avoid amps with fans inside... dust will accumulate inside....

Base and final coat applied on walls was ICI Dulux W&W Dune White which is a new 2010 color (WW 25819) in the 2010 catalog, initially wanted Lily White but comparing with the LR homo tiles which is almost similar, hence opted for a lighter color which is less yellowish...