neubie

Think about it, if shop can give 30% discount, this means they still have good margin to earn. Usual priced at 60% cost price, give 30% discount, still earn 30% ... If they sell at their cost price, might as well go home sleep better…

Oic, had u mention earlier, I wouldn't have suggested. So I guess u will have to hire someone to lay hollow wall blocks to reinstate the partition wall liao…

$600+ for the 2ch amp. Nothing fanciful, no dsp, no Dolby prologic, no dts ex, no thx, nothing, just an amp that has multi source inputs. I like it's small footprint while generating a generous amount of power to the speakers:D Regarding the floorstanders, another point to note, while they can play low frequency up to 40Hz, the question being how easy is LFE can be heard/felt, based on the efficiency of the speakers or program material. If the material does not contain any LFE, turning up the sub bass reveals nothing earthshaking, however certain materials may emphasize segments like train rumbling, explosions, aircraft flying, then I'm sure without a sub u will be doing just fine, the sub just accentuates the booming experience. My one cents worth.

so meaning, rainshower will be less frenly on the pockets, since utility bills will be much higher due to the power consumption used for electric storage heater and water usage higher?

is it really a must to reinstate back the separating wall? why not be a little more creative and create glass door with curtains and still does the job?

wah, i had initially considered EasyScene remote dimmable tubes cos they are very cool, control up to 100 bulbs and programmable in 4 groups.... coupled with the smooth dimming.... but price is real expensive. a starter kit with 2 bulbs and remotes cost 100+, and a replacement bulb cost $33+ i had earlier checked with their philips lighting support.... take note, to keep/maintain the brightness presets & grouping, the main lightswitch(es) has to be always on, so when the lights are turned off, it still consumes a little power to store the settings in memory. if the power is cut and restored later, u have to reprogram all the EasyScene tubes again.

try out first w/o the sub. from what I know, floor standing produces more fuller bass than bookshelfs, much like my mickey mouse missions... ... my mission bookshelves still produce sufficient bass w/o the need of getting sub for LFE, so i tink your floorstanders will far reduce the desperateness of needing a sub... the downside is the bigger speakers are (1) visually humongous and (2) provides a hindrance during mopping the floors.... but u get much better sound.... haaaaaaa

relax, bite the bullet, do it once and for all, do it good, stick with your desired design for many years to come...

marantz do make extremely high end high fidelity components.... from their Japan-made Ken Ishiwata signature-series hifi to their flagship copper-chassis BD/DVD player which cost an arm/leg those crazy for designer hifi can also take a look at Bang & Olufsen for their stunning audio/video integration.... *droolz*

Solly, dunno why I read and misconstrued as hidden cost. Haaaa… But I dun believe in quotation based on floor plan nia. Best is to get them survey the place and measure, this cuts down unexpected costs… But I not sure if the rockstone surface is done using glossy or matt paint, if the base coat stix nicely w/o problem is ok, if not…

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try buying the frozen swedish meatballs and sauce.... not tat diff/oily to prepare in ur new kitchen.... oh la la ;)

so it's $1 hotdog lunch everytime u visit ikea :D wah, salsa dancing queen wor....

i wouldn't really classify this as hidden cost, unless u specifically told your contractor/ID about this, and he accidentally omitted this in the quote...or u overlooked this ceiling thingy which is deemed as an oversight on your part.

it's best u keep the key to urself, cos i believe there are other barang stored there, heater, aircon FCU, golden taps, 3D TVs, HTS, etc awaiting installation once complete. there are cases of lost items during renovation. 防人之心不可无, better play safe than sorry...

Yes it will hit the glass door, but the fridge door has 2 surrounding frames that protrude the main door surface (look sideways and the outline looks like an 'I' shape.... so it only touches the glass door by the edges of the fridge door. but the fridge is designed such a way, u no longer need to open more than 90 degree to totally remove the glass racks or crisper cabinets; the fridge door has racks that provides the clearance space for easy removal during cleaning. there are 2 finishes to this fridge, the silver one (cost about $660+ throw in $70 giant/cold storage/7-11 shopping voucher) which I'm having and the stainless steel one which cost $50 more. that time i asked for the stainless steel one but they say haven't reach SG yet. so LLST take the silver one.

if that fails, u may want to consider borrowing against ur life insurance, if u have it...

yo, how's ur ID selection? inked the deal?

i see u are using fixed grille for your corridor windows....cleaning of windows might pose a problem? PS: your corridor is clean and uncluttered compared to mine.... those inconsiderate neighbors put their potted plants shoecabinets and huge rubbermaids on the corridor, effectively cutting the already narrow pathway less than 3ft....

http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?sh...mp;#entry590200 For such cases of ala carte reno, such gray areas always exists. The electrician is not at any obligation to fill/putty the gaps between trunking n walls, cos it is beyond his jobscope, similarly for the plasterer/painter. What TS can do is to ask the painter do, maybe with additional costs. Better still, puay n chamsiong with the main con to do it at no additional costs. If all else fails, get a $3 caulking gun n tubes of silicon at approx $3 each n diy… can fill up until u shoik

i would oso think it's best to scrape off the rockstone layer to reveal the bare RC layer... if u overlay, your ceiling height will reduce by a bit.

happy holidays welcome!!! start getting bz and rack ur brains on what to do for ur reno :D

to the wife: what's mine is mine, what's his is also mine 男人有钱就变坏，女人变坏就有钱。。。 :D

i tink TS is referring to sealing the gaps between trunking and wall. u dun need glue to paste trunking. not always true, as there will always be unevenness even after plastering. For such cases of ala carte reno, such gray areas always exists. The electrician is not at any obligation to fill/putty the gaps between trunking n walls, cos it is beyond his jobscope, similarly for the plasterer/painter. What TS can do is to ask the painter do, maybe with additional costs. Better still, puay n chamsiong with the main con to do it at no additional costs. If all else fails, get a $3 caulking gun n tubes of silicon at approx $3 each n diy… can fill up until u shoik

pianos are fixed static load on floorings but movable live loads like office chairs will cause scratches.