morganwu

Hi all, I got approx 800sqft of Solid American White Ash for sale at a 40% discount. Clearing stock. Interested parties please PM me for details. Morgan

lately i got quite a few inquiries and the answers can be found in this thread. bumping this thread so its easier to find.

Hi, my company built the deck i showed you. the deck in the picture are 23 x 140 x 2400mm wide boards installed with clips. was $35psf. smaller sizes will be cheaper. i see from your previous entry you are looking for a planter box? for planters smaller than 50sqft, using 23 x 90 x <1500mm Burmese Teak, lump sum charge of $1250 applies. Morgan

hi, Burmese Teak is actually the best timber available to be used as outdoor decks. Just that it is also the most expensive. https://picasaweb.google.com/112609487273448665888/ThePeakA?authuser=0&feat=directlink Morgan

hi, try naturewood, www.naturewood.com.sg for the burmese teak you want.

you need to apply a layer of epoxy coating on the cement screed. this look is achieved by using a power float on the screed before it hardens.

@indradarni no there shouldnt be a difference. even if there is, not much. @CChuan $3.50psf includes labor and everything else, it is not for the water based coating only. btw, water based coatings require a min of 2 coats, recommended 3 coats. hence the cost is closer to $1psf than $0.35psf for the coatings alone.

expensive.

yes overlay can be done. we will bolt plywood onto the existing tile with wall plugs, and then install the timber on top of the plywood. if you are not worried about termites, walnut, white oak, tas.oak, (about all other timber in the market) are suitable. if termites are a concern, burmese teak, indonesian teak are able your only choices. my company recently did a project where we installed timber over marble using the method i described. will upload pictures soon. however, some caveats, 1. your existing tiles would still be damaged by the insertion of wall plugs. if you ever hack away the timber floor, you will see holes in your tiles. 2. this method will definitely leave some areas that are 'hollow', where if you knock at that area you will hear a sound akin to knocking a door. it is harmless and will not affect the surface quality. however some owners find it a nuisance. 3. this method will 'rise' the floor level. hence there would be a kerb where the timber floor ends. in the case the floor passes thru a door, you have to modify the door so that it can still close. thats all i can think of off my hand.going for dinner now.

Dear oinkrabbit, 1. the floor in this picture was installed without any plywood. the floor will still look as good, you wouldnt notice the nail marks from standing height. we do not use, and i believe no one in Singapore uses foam as the base for timber flooring. only laminates and engineered floors may use foam as their base. solid timber floors do not. Timber Floor 2. the timber floor will last you a lifetime if you adhere to these principles, a. only vacuum or mop with a MOIST mop. damp or dripping wet mops are a NO NO. those micro-fiber mops sold by 3M are very good, i personally use them. b. add rubber or felt pads under the feet of furniture like table and chairs. for chairs with rollers the hard floor cover sold in IKEA is pretty good. b. place a floor mat at entrances to a room with timber floor, so that any debris or stones would be caught by the mat before they can scratch the floor. 3. no i dont. i can recommend, but unless you can wait a month or more, i believe the carpenter is now so busy that he is turning down offers already. Morgan Wu

it is not slippery when dry. the coatings i use are designed with safety of the users in mind, however there are no special effects like rough surface or such.

uniform finishing can only be achieved with dark stains. this particular client wanted to see the wood's natural color. hence we used an outdoor oil that accentuates the wood's original grain and color instead of hiding it.

hi ken, you would have to give me the measurements before i can assist you further. yes my company does ironwood. no natural timber has uniform coloration. for example the color of the skin on your stomach and forearm is probably different also. you have to accept this uneven coloration if you want natural timber. the timber in the picture is Merbau. the stain is usually the sap within the timber itself. when exposed to rain the sap will dissolve and leak out of the wood. this is a temporary phenomenon. it will stop after a month or so if it rains frequently. however it could also be the protection coating you are talking about. but if that is the case a really very low quality coating was used. almost all timber classified as usable outdoors have sap in them, as the sap is one of the factors that give the timber its durability. morgan

Sry i got no photos of Accoya. For other timbers you may look at planter box photo how big and deep is your planter box?

hi, i work for nature wood. to be specific, the company i work for is part of nature wood's group of companies. Accoya is a natural material. it is actually pine wood that has underwent a chemical process called Acetylation. this process replaces the reactive substances in the wood and render the wood nonreactive. it is non-toxic, as the chemical used here is similar to vinegar. the company just started carrying Accoya start of this year, but Accoya have been around overseas for quite some time. local tests are still underway, but results so far so good. yes it is more expensive than ironwood. it is the same price as chengal. but it does not crack. left unpainted in the sun it will turn silvery grey. Morgan

let me share my latest and the project i am most proud of. for other images, visit this album evergreen forest album

you have to ask him to define what are structural cracks. to me, a 5 year warranty is only a marketing strategy with not much practical impact, for the reasons below 1. you got to ask yourself do you think his company can last 5 years or not. if he is a Singaporean company, and is quoting you less than $800 per planter box (assuming yours is a small one, ~30sqft), he probably wont last 5 years in this trade because the overheads here are very high. if he is a Malaysian... i dont know, its up to you to decide if warranty given to you by a Malaysian contractor is believable. they can simply ignore your call and you cant find them because they dont have an office. 2. most structural problems appear within 1 year of installation, because of the nature of timber. warranty seldom extends beyond 1 year because it is not meaningful. you mentioned in your previous post that you are looking for something that's easy to maintain. ironwood is a good choice, but you have to take note that it cracks under the sun due to its hardness. you can ask him, but his warranty probably does not cover the SURFACE material, which is the ironwood. i recommended accoya because of the low maintenance part. it is a treated timber that does not crack, does not wrap, and comes with a 50 years warranty. similarly, 50 years sounds good, but we in the industry usually shrug it off because in 50 years, who knows, the whole building demolished already. you may find accoya at Nature Wood Pte Ltd 31 Sungei Kadut St4

what type of flooring is it? cement, tiles, timber or? usually it is not possible to just paint the floor because the paint will just peel off due to the friction when people walk on it. you need coatings developed specially for floors.

marble i dunno. 1/3 timber, depends on what timber. for a good quality timber floor with toxicity taken into consideration, expect ard $9+ psf for teak. 1/3 decking, there are many other options in the market other than chengal. but if you insist on chengal, size 90x20mm long lengths should set you back ard $24psf. Note: prices are for floors and decks installed with standard operating procedure and quality checks, not those installed by malaysian contractors.

TS, take a look at this thread for more information. http://www.renotalk.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=35280 btw, you dont need certificate of origin, just go to 31 sungei kadut st4, look for nature wood pte ltd. the whole warehouse is burmese teak, you wun doubt what you see.

try accoya. http://www.accoya.com/

the paint on the floor will be removed by the floor guys' cleaning and buffing before the second coat is applied. dun worry. as for how long the paint is considered dry, it varies according to the different brands you use. i cant advise you on this unless i touched your wall personally. alternatively you can use a professional installer with all the necessary vacuum devices. however only up-market installers use those, as each vacuum costs up to 7,000SGD. PS: u cant use lacquer on your floor as its not durable. choose a installer that quotes you non-toxic water based polyurethane coatings or woodwax and oil coatings.

hi, wooden flooring follow this procedure install -> grind/sand -> first coat -> second coat to avoid dust you should paint after you sand but before the second coat. reasons because 1. sanding is the procedure that produces the dust you are trying to avoid. 2. painting will drip paint and the painter will almost scratch your floor, hence dun paint after your floor is completed. 3. if the second coat is applied after you paint, all scratches and drips caused by the painted would be removed. however if it is not possible due to site constraints, it is still better paint then sand your floor. the machines nowadays are pretty efficient, and there are equipment that can remove up to 99% of dust. demand your installers to use these equipment. also,the fine dust that adheres to your wall can be blown away easily with a blower. make sure your wall's paint has DRIED. both are standard procedures in the industry that we recommend to home owners, depending on the site situation.

the loss of shine is probably because your contractor used a 'matt' finish. 'matt' finishes are the defacto standard in the market nowadays. if i were to look from your contractor's perspective, it is reasonable for him to assume that you would like it since almost all homeowners like it. however the reverse is also true... why didnt your contractor confirm with you which type of finish you like before applying? i would say both sides have to bear some responsibility. 290 is on the high side, however you shouldnt expect the contractor to revarnish for free (because what he handed over is not technically a defective floor) too because he needs to make a living. a negotiation to reach a middle ground would be nice.

research and visit the workshops directly. u wun get good value from IDs. good place to start from is bedok industrial park or northlink building.