liquid_fuel

Agree with yoongf. Since the wall is an external facade wall, it'll definately a no no, especially for a condo. The management will not approve the hacking.

Yes, it can be done. But be prepared to see the wall tiles sitting on your kitchen top's back splash. I suggest you get the contractor to remove all electrical switches / powerpoint covers before the tiler do their job. Price wise, it depends on how big your covering area is and how expensive a tile you choose.

L-box with cove light are usually more expensive than the normal L-box. Agree with DoubleJ, unless you have a fairly good flat and smooth ceiling else you'll be looking at bumps and depressions. Paint type also plays a part, if you using those Wash & Wear or those with elastic solutions, you'll see more of the bumps as the paint reflects light. L-box are charged by pfr, for a normal 300mm width. Anything more than 300mm width will incured additional cost. Reason, L-box when purchased from supplier only comes in that size, hence wider width means more work and materials. Contractors / IDs will charge according to the amount of work to be done. If you are only doing L-box or false ceiling for a small portion in your house, be prepared to get a lump sum price instead of going by pfr or psf prices. It make sense, if you are being sent to do something small, not mentioning the transportation and effort to bring your tools up. Any contractors will do the same charging you a lump sum.

L-box are attached will only be damaged if removed, and not likely to use back. Why would you want to service your electrical cables which is running along the ceiling edge? Unless you are re-wiring your cables. If there should be any junction box or any other sort of component that you've installed up at the ceiling, I suggest you do up a access panel for that specific position so that you do not need to remove the entire L-box.

I may not totally agree. Many times ID does advised on the pros & cons with using certain materials or even brands. At the end of the day, it's still the owner to make the call pertaining their preference and budget. As mentioned in this tread, some experienced that SS takes in stain marks and is prone to scratches, which is advised by the ID. A more ideal precaution to these problems is to use granite or quartz top. Then again, how many would want to spent that kind of money and how many would like the limitation to colour choices. Btw, granite or marble top are prone to water marks, not an entirely stain proof material.

Usually you can tell, if it's high-lighted, from the floor plan. You should be looking at wall that is only in plain lines, rather than those in black coloured one or those with additional line running in the middle. Those with plain lines indicate that it is not a structural wall, hence most likely can be hacked. At the end of the day, when you submit your renovation plan and application to the managment. They should be the one who will approve various job to be carry out during renovation. Hence, there's no reason why they shouldn't know weather specific wall can be down.

You may want to use a pen knife to remove as much as possible, after which use thinner to wipe off the remainly thin residue.

I think with that price you can even go for granite top, since you are purchasing at such length. Caesartone is quartz, very expensive, you probably pay double the price. But like what stryke mentioned, it can last you a long long time with almost no maintenance required. It's even harder than homogeneous tiles that we lay on the floor. Solid surface, LG/Cresto/Corian..etc, requires alot of "care & concern" as they scratches easily and takes in stains. Though it can be polish and varnish. It voice down to how heavy do you use the kitchen. Pros, it has a smooth joining for the backsplash. Whereas, slate materials like granite, marble or quartz, they use silicon to seal joining gap between the kitchen work top and back splash. Installation wise, not a problem, just bring in the kitchen cabinet with sink, hood, etc.. From there the installer will drop by to take measurement for production.

No good to overlay especially when your flat is so old. The base tiles may pop up when overlay, hence affecting the surface. Better to hack off and re-do a new one. Costing wise, depends on what tiles you choose and how expensive the tile will cost psf.

Why don't you pop into any tile supplier to check out the price psf for various tiles you deem suitatble. And source for a tiler and asked how much would it cost to do one, do remember to take a sample tile back to show the tiler. Some tiles required more work and complication.

I doubt they can sand down so deeply to remove the previous dye. Does depends how much dye the timber takes in though. After sanding down, they'll lacqure the surface, and it really stinks with thinner smell and have eye burning effect. I suppose you keep your pet out for at least 2 -3 days until the smell and vapour has reduced.

Besglas is have a product launch this Sat at Parkmall, why don't you pop by to take a look and see what they can offer. Think by invitation only, but you can always ask.

So far I've only seen wooden byfold door for indoor use only, afterall wood material is not recommended for doors exposed to rain & shine. If you want to have a nice lookout from inside your house, why don't you try clear tempered glass instead? Not byfold though, can be frameless sliding glass door, gives an open feel.

I think Chengai will still be a better choice. It should not warp or split as it's meant for outdoor use, be it rain or shine. A real Chengai wood will have this little holes on the surface if you look carefully. Actual colour is light brown tone, many go for staining to darken the look, mainly dark Walnut colour. Cons is, if scratches, you'll see the base colour along the scratch lines. Hence, better to remain the existing true colour. Another thing to look out for a nicely prepared Chengai strip is the 2 side profile. Many suppliers do not take the extra effort to sand the side in order to give a smooth rounded edge. Can be rather painful if you kicked your toes into sharp right angle.

Yes, the average cost for polishing is around $1 - $1.50 psf. There are usually 2 types of polishing for marble & granite flooring, wet or dry polishing. If the condition of your flooring is relatively good, dry polishing should suffice. I have contact of a good polisher, you can call Ah Xiong at 9022 3508. One of the best I've seen so far. But must book early, his schedule is rather tight. All furniture should be removed from area of polishing, dry polishing is very "powdery", they usually do mop up for you, but don expect to be real clean. When cleaning the floor pls do not use strong detergent or any sort, it'll blur up the shine. My 2-cents contribution..