alvinloo

Hi lookaround, Appreciate if you could share with me the contact for your Quote 3? Thanks in advance.

Hi TGOwner, Your price is cheaper than mine. Mind sharing the contact? Thanks!

Hi Kelvin, Can send me the contact as well? Thanks.

Hi Sforshor, Can PM me the contact? Thanks.

I used to have a similar problem not at the bottom of the window, but at the sides. Anyway, what I did was to buy a tube of silicon and squeeze them neatly onto the existing grout (from inside of the house), as well as the outside (exterior) facing grout of the window. It hasn't been leaking since then. Hope this helps.

Not from a condo, but similar problem as my HDB kitchen was too small, and don't really like the idea of having to keep all the clothes before cooking, so I took a gamble to install a gas dryer from Citygas as I've not heard much reviews (or I've probably not searched enough). I just moved in my unit about a week, the dryer works great! Clothes that comes out of the dryer is soft, dry, no weird smell, etc. Citygas folks mount it on top of my washer, so I just need to transfer the washed clothes up to the dryer. No more laying out clothes on the bamboo sticks, putting on clothes pegs, and hanging them up/out. Might be worth considering..

To have 2 compressors with 3 fancoils doesn't seem cheap. Usually the compressor is more costly. I would suggest you go get a conventional system-3 aircon that supports 3 fancoils. The overall "strength" of your aircon system is determined by the outdoor compressor unit. If that unit supports up to 36,000BTU/hr (about 4 horsepower), and if all 3 rooms turn on their 12,000BTU/hr fancoils, no problem. Your outdoor compressor unit will just be running at it's full capacity. However, if you get a 30,000BTU/hr (about 3 horsepower) outdoor compressor unit, if 2x 12,000BTU/hr fancoils are already running, turning on the 3rd fancoil will cost your compressor to overwork and will depend on the characteristic of the system-3 aircon, probably 3x rooms will be running at 10,000BTU/hr each, or 2x rooms at 12,000BTU/hr each, last room only be running at 6,000BTU/hr, etc. I agree with simhup, probably a 9,000BTU/hr and 2x 12,000BTU/hr fancoils should be sufficient, assuming your room is about 2.5m-2.7m in height. If you have a huge built-in/walk-in wardrobe or a high ceiling, those factors would need to be taken into consideration as well. And get those with R410A as the aircon refrigerant, rather than the older R22 refrigerant. Just go into any aircon shops and have a chat with the salesperson, they should be able to share more with you.

Thanks wd88 for providing contact. Had called the supplier and my installation will be on 4 Sept. Will post pics if the installation is completed successfully.

I think it's thereabouts for the conversion by a contractor, including providing the toilet bowl (not branded type, of course). If you want to DIY, will depend how much you buy your toilet bowl, need to buy cement, a very strong hammer? Probably some face mask and gloves. Not sure how much smelly stuff might be accumulated over the years at those hard to reach places?

The final inspection is mainly to make sure that if the owner promises to empty the house, all the items were indeed removed and you do not need to inherit any unwanted items. If it is an old estate, need to take note things like the toilet louvre window glass need to be those type which had embedded wire mesh in the glass panels. If the unit has bomb shelter, need to make sure that at least 1 ventilation hole is unblocked, etc. But if you're going to do a major overhaul for renovation, probably can ask your contractor to rectify these.

62 Sungei Kadut Loop Their website here.

Mega Discount Store @ Kallang Leisure Park or United Square I got most of my stuff there..

Another thing to take note is the distance from the edge of the hole to the back of the wall. Usually should be 10 inches. So you'll need to make sure you choose the correct toilet bowl. Or just get the contractor to provide. And when the contractor hack away the existing squat toilet, cement will be used to cover the squat hole before placing the sit type. Usually the sit type can't "cover" the affected flooring, so you'll have to decide whether you have any spare tiles to cover them, if not it'll have to be left as cement. Also note that for squat type, the flooring is usually tapered towards the squat bowl, meaning any splashes previously, it's supposed to flow to the centre. So with the sit type, if you didn't redo the tiles, there might be water puddles accumulating at the edges of the (new sit-type) toilet bowl base, which you'll have to periodically sweep them away.

Am I still in time to join? I need a F100. PM wd88 already.