Eurypylus

Solid top = Shiny and least porous but subjected to scratches and heat. Granite = very porous, w/o heat and scratches issue. So chose only the dark coloured ones. Quartz = Composition or certain % of quartz and "plastic" stuff. Rather expensive, less porous than granite, no issue with heat. Imho, every type of top will have its pro and con. I've use the most expensive choice Caesarstone, thinking it'll last a lifetime. I guess it will, but then I was advise not to chop hard near the joint and now facing issue like newspaper stain are not easy to be clean off.

Acrylic have a short lifespan. While it'll not break, crack marks will appear within a few years under heat and cold.

Its Vera A011 purchase at Phenomenon. Cost 488 with the sink as a package excluding GST. I won't recommend this one, as the flush is not powerful. The one in my MBR toilet is a Velin 3390, cost 550(ex GST), its a better one. ============== Its a Seiko. I purchase it over the net as I'm too lazy to shop. You should be able to buy one locally.

If it smell, then something must be wrong with the trap. Could the base of your trap be stuck with debris? The same outlet for HDB sink and WC are common. If gas came out from you WC, its possible to come out from the basin drain as well. S$0.02

Thanks for the advise, after trying 1/2 an hour with the brand new tile bit(I cool it off with water at 2-3 min interval), I finally gave up and us the mansonary bit at drill mode(again cool with water at 2-3 min interval), then finally masonary bit at hammer mode(slow speed). The tile surface did chip off, luckily for me, my hanger fitter manage to cover the chip. Total time spend = 45 - 1 hour for 2 hole :-( I've seen the door maker using a special bit with hollow in the center for drilling floor tiles, it seems to work well for them. Then I did not manage to find one in the market myself.

I've tried using the triangle bit for tiles/glass. Have been drilling 1/2 an hour, not even 1/2 way thru the tiles ...>_<...

The shipping cost is more than double of the pad :-(

Courts megastore

1) AIRCON!! its the window unit. omg, i didnt noe that they eat so much electricity until u guys told me. i think should change to inverter aircon.. if i get a system 2 but use only 1 aircon, will the charge for the electricity be the same as a system 1? timing when its on wise, cannot be changed. they sleep during that time.. AC with inverter are costly to maintain, but if you are talking about running it all day, might as well go for it. 2) lights, i think this have to change also. they like to on the light. if i want to save on the lights, means have to get the energy saving bulbs? hmm.. seems like got to go ikea to see.. their lights that they on is one switch but it ons 4 lights at one go.. toilet they also like to leave it on. Invest in LED light bulb if necessary. This will cost you a few thousand, but its the greatest energy saver. 3) Fridge. its a 5 yr old fridge. sayno superior.. does that eat alot of electricity? how to see if the appliance eats alot of electricity? issit by seeing the voltage or something? Look for the label with wattage. 4) TV. omg.. this is the old type of tv. the box one. -.-" they have nothing to do at home, so watch tv whole day.. sometimes sleep also watching.. Time to switch to LED tv lah. 5) cooking. My SO is going to ban cooking in the house. his father some times forget to off the gas.. and then run off to smoke.. i sense a disaester waiting to happen. if dun cook can save water and gas. Gas and water will not cost as much as electric. For safely purpose, you may with to look for stove with safely valve. need opinons for the cooking thing for those with 3 in a family. is it more cost saving to buy from outside for dinner than to cook 4 dishes a night plus rice? Difficult to say lah, if they eat seafood every meals, of course its going to cost a bomb. Cooking at home may be more healthy, as most hawker food contain more MSG then one normally use at home. I just realized something very dangerous that they are doing.. the old flats in each room only has 1 pug. so they have multi plugs on multi plugs. i think need to help them get more plugs. what do i tell the electrician? i want more points? how much does one point like this cost? hope to get a rough gauge because i need to plan how much money we have to fork out for this. If their flat's socket outlet is wired in ring circuit, it will be easy to spruce an extension. Thanks!

My plumber help to to buy. JH-25 $210, JH-35 $228 cash and carry VIC-3 Marketing 379, Guillemard road

Its something like this Sample fro website I cannot post picture to another website w/o permission from the site owner.

I'm looking for a 38" x 24" genuine leather desk pad. I've seen some online overseas, but the shipping cost is almost 3x the price of the pad itself. Any clue where they can be purchase locally in Singapore. All I've found so far are all made of pvc.

Thanks for your advise. My mbr balcony sliding glass door are tempered, while the ones with wooden frame at my main balcony are normal glass. The folding door with tempered glass are too expensive for my budget :-(

Standard practice in S'pore, 1.5mm for lighting, 2.5mm for scoket outlet, 4mm for heated/air-con. If you have never study CP5, then better leave it to an qualify electrician.

I'm no expert, but after seeing how the top is being glued to the cabinet, I don't think there's any way one can remove the top w/o causing damage to the cabinet.

My balcony is 3.5m x 1.7m and its unsheltered as well. My dad instruct the maker to use the type of vanish for yacht deck. The glass used is NOT tempered glass to cut cost, and its glued with silicon glue. My balcony area is extremely windy, and during rainy days the rain will spray right onto the door. So far it looks fine to me, but I've only shifted in for a fortnight. Cost wise, the quotation you get is the standard market price, which I'm paying. I may in future consider an outdoor roller blind to damper the rain spraying in.

To close up the blog, we have FINALLY shifted in. The reno work commenced around mid October 2010, ended at mid January 2011.

Hollow block worth nothing and its more towards labor cost you will be paying. I recall one whole set of solid wood frame cost around $80, why not you get the frame maker to extend the top part. ID and main con find all sort of excuse to squeeze $$$

gypsum board on the door frame is out of the question. They are flimsy and you will soon see crack. The door fame is commonly made of solid wood, which expand and contract under different temperature with plaster. Further more each time you close the door there will be vibration to the frame. i suggest you get them to use hollow brick or solid wood. S$0.02

The switch and socket outlet faceplate can be remove leaving the wire. The glass maker measure the allowance for the "hole" for the connector + screw hole for the face plate then cut out from a single piece. The screw hole can be 1-2cm widen as it will be cover by the face plate. A bit off topic here, I've plenty issue with the glass that my main contractor use for my glass sliding door as well. First they give me the two handle cut out 10cm difference in height, then they come again to replace it... during the job of replacement, they scratch the fixed panel of the glass badly, then come again to replace it. Those glass maker must learn the lesson that if they hire cheap semi standard FT, they'll end up losing more.

The 13A is not just out of place, there's that little piece of glass they join above the socket outlet. The glass CANNOT be reuse. Insist that they change the whole piece.

Try Tai Seng hardware

My dad who is a retired carpenter "die die" disagree with the idea of vanity. But then finally give up as my co "die die" prefer to have one. I've the shower screen installed, and the vanity is with abs trim. I cross my finger if it will last for the next five years... being in the marine line, I've yet to see any timber that last for more than a year w/o major maintenance.