gantan88

Oh now i understand. I assume you are doing L-shape. Curious why aren't you doing L-shape? Then there will be nothing to block the chute...

Thanks Bro. Where is your rubbish chute? Block?

Dear all, Pls advise if i kanna chop carrot a not? Supply and plaster: 2 bedrooms walls and ceiling, kitchen walls and ceiling, toilets ceiling Total $1,600. Living room NOT included.. Thanks!

Single bowl is good! Big and deep, wash wok also easy :-)

Hi Alamak, Can PM me yr window contractor contacts. i wanna give a try to call them for a quote. Thanks.

Hi Momo13, I just realised your kitchen tiles is my kitchen toilet tiles...

Fyi, i have found out from the supplier that each of this air-tight hopper cost $450. Crop part of the reply from the supplier: 2. MAXDEN is a manufacturer of cockroach-proof, airtight, stainless steel, fire-rated rubbish chute hoppers that are tested and certified by PSB. 3. Our patented pneumatic-magnetic gasket seals so well, we guarantee it will shut out cockroaches during fogging. Foul odour will also be shut out. 4. We are pleased to offer our MAXDEN hopper at $450 each nett, inclusive of installation. No GST. It will take 3 hours to replace a hopper. 5. Some of our clients that had retrofitted their hoppers to MAXDEN are: a) Avon Park b) Baddell View c) High St Centre d) Wisma Atria e) Lanson Place f) The Prominence g) Liat Towers h) Sandy Palm Condo i) Duchess Manor j) Balmeg Hill k) Neptune Court l) Juniper At Ardmore m) MAS Building n) Ridgewood Condo o) Normanton Park p) various HDB estate

If you have budget constraint: If the frames are still ok: then dun change it lo... but the main door must change la (at least for me) cos my flat like yours, nearly 30 years, the main door is still the original one from HDB 30 years ago. I am also thinking whether to change to windows and grill a not because it cost over $2k to change all. Exisiting condition still quite good, just that i dun like the colour

Congratulations! Huat ah!

I think we can simply push the door open, if pull, we may need the ring... like a bit troublesome because everytime close the door have to hold the ring to pull the door. Unless there are some grooves that we can use..

Kings Furnishing and Brighton (same boss). Nova Furniture. THey dun exactly custom make the whole sofar but you can choose the design and they will trim it to the length you want.

Hi alamak, Missing out a lot on yr blog. Congrats on work commencement! Yr bedrooms already got laminated flooring left by prev owner? I was quoted about $180 for bedroom door frame, maybe u can gauge from here for your main entrance door frame. For the price of main door, i remembered it is around $550, solid naytoh solid door. For your reference Let me know if i am being 'chop-carrot' ok?

Because i have no idea how many i must switch on to sufficiently brighten up the living room, as least as bright as using a ceiling light. 1 down light = 2 x PLC (13W or 18W each). If my calculation is correctly, then my electricity sure shoot up to sky... this is monthly recurring cost, have to be careful. Is clove light sufficient to brighten up then? 2 fluroscent tube, place them strategically...

I guess this is the one that i am talking about. THe bi-fold door with hinges come standard with HDB. Not so nice, but with hinges, easier for maintenance....

So the first one operates on hinges i see? The 2 'rings' there is for us to hold to pull/push the door isit?

For top mount track bi-fold, i actually dun have much worries, just that dunno whether the opening and closing will be smooth because the bottom of the doors are not guided by a track in that sense. It may be smooth in the beginning but after prolonged daily usage, dunno what will happey - robustness? For both top and bottom mount track bi-fold, the below track accumulate dirt and moisutre, so u'll see dirt (black colour one) clogged up at the corners and the only way to clean it is with, i dunno, a stick and cloth? Anyway if either one of the 2 tracks gone, the door also cannot open liao, so the bottom one to be is redundant, provided the top track has certain level of robustness. But i am also looking at a 3rd kind of door which is also bi-fold, but operates on hinges instead of tracks. You can see this commonly in newly built flats in the recent years, but it is wood. Kinda got used to it coz i had it last time, but the locking mechanism not so good la..

Ossify, have you personally see and touch one after it is installed? Any idea if it shakes a lot because there is no bottom track... I dun like the bottom track because it traps dirt and is hard to clean.... imagine moisture with dirt...

Anyone can advise on the above? Thanks

I got a noob question on lighting..... For normal living room ceiling light, usually it is 32W (or 30+ watt, can't remember the exact wattage) using CFL (circular fluorescent lamp?) For PLC lights under the L-Box (2x 13W PLC each), if i need to switch on 8 of them to sufficiently brighten up the whole living room, total is (2x13W) X 8 = 208 Watts Compared to ceiling light 32 Watts, using downlights consume so much more electricity! Worry about electricity bill... Is this the correct way to calculate?

I third b) !!!

Sorry bro, i still dun quite get your drift on the "that "wall" above your door cannot be concrete or hollow block". But what i really mean is that, you can imagine taking out all the panes and fill up that 'hole' with cement, so essentially it become a wall. The old door frames will remain. I think $900 consist of hacking away the old door frames and put in the new one and also to create that 'wall' above the door frame. If just covering the panes with gypsum board and paint over for 2 bedrooms and storeroom, is $240... Well....

Thanks man! This forum so good, usually is over-whelmed for me... thanks for redirecting again.

* deleted * cos over duplicate

(a) Haiz, i dunno leh. i also tot it will be FOC because it is just boards, nail in and paint over. SOmetimes i dunno what my ID is doing. The same contractor doing L-Box can do the covering up also right? (b) All my hacking works are completed. So my ID explain that, getting the hacker to come again needs to pay for his transport fee here, then the hacker will hack the corners, the making good' of the corners will be done by another contractor, so it is like 2 teams of people... so quite expensive. I feel that i am being shortchanged again because I am engaging an I.D firm, They should have done the overall planning for me in terms of design. Now they left out these 2 corners and i only spotted them now, who should be responsible? © Yes, hacking is one team of ppl, another team will come and smoothen the hacked aread, like cement screeding the wall like that.... so back to the same issue, if my ID has spotted this he should have ask the hacker do it one shot liao, now no need pay transport fee.... at least so much cheaper... *angry*

Paiseh i just saw this reply. Bro Ossify, You are right that vinyl is non-porous so laminate over vinyl see,s better :-) I am doing this to my 2 bedrooms. I hope there wun be any problem. Anyway bedroom so small, after u put in the bed, wardrobe, tables etc, not much walking space left... so cheaper option is to laminate over. I have come to the stage of rewiring yet... hopefully it does not exceed $1200.... any good elect contractor to recommend? If not i will just engage whatever contractor my I.D recommends.