ossify

i guess the reason he has to charge you may be because his profit margin is already very low so he is just trying to maintain his profit margin. calling a worker to do additional box-up or paint works doesn't come free the living room has cove lighting right? why not just have it lowered to the gas pipe level instead of having cove and another drop? was your gas piping done after the cove lighting was up? was aircon installation done by yourself or through contractor? generally, if you do yourself, it tends to get very messy because additional pipes needs to be laid last minute. eg. in my case, i had to make some changes (split water and gas) to my aircon piping because the trunkings are so thick. Good thing my drainage pipe is still run according to plan so that it can be hidden in my box-up. Since you do so much box-up, why not box-up the aircon pipes in the WIW too?

there is usually no need to test the skirting. you can try to pull it out, it shouldn't move. if it does... it means too little adhesive used. does your invoice state "Supply and install of 60x60cm homogenous tiles (non-hollow)"?

ya. my tampines client also can't hack storeroom. prefab must be the craze when they were building up tampines...

A tile without any backing (otherwise known as hollow tile) is not strong. It can crack easily (which you realised) and can pop if the air trapped inside expands and contracts. It may not happen within the next 2-3 years though, which is why most reno companies will guarantee you for 1 year A tile with a flat foundation will be very strong as any force would be diffused away. That tile would not have cracked if the foundation was done properly. It may chip, but it will not pop out. Perhaps it would be prudent to tap the tiles to check for difference in sound. Use something metallic and blunt.

this is horrible workmanship... i am worried for the rest of your tiles.

are you using metallic laminates?

You have more than 1 box of craftstone left over? That's odd. I ordered 1 box on your behalf while you were away, which was needed to finish up the last section. As for the mosaic block, sounds interesting, what do you intend to use it for?

I am currently using an unbranded lock, about $50-60. It is secured directly onto the gate itself, haven't seen any rust yet. Don't think these locks will rust that easily anyway. If dropping the lock can cause the tile to crack, it may mean that the tile is not good Do you use heavy duty homo tiles? Or the thin ceramic type?

welcome to the neighbourhood, get rid of BR3

he rotated it 90 degrees clockwise

i think i got the same tap at $10 or so at GR Link. kinda squarish, very nice to use. I use it to control my bidet pressure.

it's not that few tilers can do it, it's just that few contractors want to do it

Different brands come at different prices and designs. So, the main thing is to see which one you are most comfortable with. Acrylic is indeed better than polyester, but more costly. I would always recommend acrylic unless you are on a budget. I would advise to go for the one you like most, based on aesthetics and texture. Thanks for the support Wow that's very value-for-money My model looks less cluttered though, only 4 buttons

Another series of solid worktops... Cresto (polyester) $70 pfr Korean brand (100% acrylic) from $90 pfr (more pricey than the previous one, but more selection)

that means no need for parador already... found the series you're looking for. I can get it at 0.50psf cheaper but I guess you don't need it anymore

if you believe him that the subfloor is >40mm thick, then the answer is true. but if you are skeptical (as I am), then the answer is false. yes you can put on laminates regardless of your current floor level. didn't know you have false ceiling, in that case, forget about it any subfloor that is flat and impermable to water is a good subfloor. marble is good. next time you want to sell your house, just remove the laminate and your valuation will be higher

wow it's already answered before i can reply Total thickness of tiles and screed must not exceed 50 mm http://www.hdb.gov.sg/fi10/fi10324p.nsf/w/...t#FloorFinishes assuming your floor already reached 50mm (which imho is unlikely), another option, is to overlay with laminates. it's not considered as tile/screed so it's not in the 50mm rule do me a favour, let me know what's the distance between your ceiling and flooring

It might be a cost issue. Costs quite a bit more to do this wall.

your inbox is full

since there is only one distributor, the price will be roughly the same. since he's your contractor, you should just let him handle it. my quote is retracted, unless Ronald is not able to do your job.

If not WPC, it should be even cheaper. Anyway, WPC won't chip off so easily. Did your ID say it will chip off easily?

thanks for pointing to me have 100% acrylic at $85pfr now, cheaper than LG. PM me know if you're interested

100% acrylic solid surface from $85pfr, even cheaper than Corian and LG but same 100% acrylic Only $85 pfr!

you can overlay as long as the current floor is not overlaid. do open your eyes big big when you shop, don't get chopped

quite a bit of financial planning good job